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Making Pennons/banners [was White bracer]

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  • jotl@ridgecrest.ca.us
    ... Some notes posted to the Society heraldry list on the topic of bannermaking by myself and others a while back: In a message dated 97-06-03 12:48:03 EDT,
    Message 1 of 1 , Nov 18 8:34 PM
      At 2:09 PM 11/18/02 -0500, Tessa the Huntress wrote:
      >I have plans on making an archer's pennon for use on the combat field, as a
      >rallying point and/or inspection point for archers. I figured I could use
      >the same, since it would be my personal one.. to fly in my camp. If anyone
      >has information to share on how it was made and/or tips in making it,
      >including materials, paints, etc.. please let me know. I have some
      >pictures and documents on how they looked, but I always love more
      >information.
      >
      >I would love to see more archers pennons being used and shown on the field
      >(be it combat and/or target) :)
      >
      >Tessa the Huntress


      Some notes posted to the Society heraldry list on the topic of bannermaking
      by myself and others a while back:


      In a message dated 97-06-03 12:48:03 EDT, you write:

      << OOOHHHH!!! Wonderful!!!!!

      Can you tell what process you use to make yours? Do you paint them? If so,
      what type/brand of paints do you use? What type of cloth? Etc.

      Hail Modar

      I've already seen your description, and was going to send this along anyway-

      Our technique-I believe first used by Baron Bruce--begins very like yours
      in terms of getting the line drawing onto the cloth. Bruce, of course, just
      draws the device , lightly with pencil, on the cloth. Other folk have
      photo-enlarged ( xerox)the drawing and place it just beneath the cloth and
      trace over it with resist. (see below for resist info) At any rate, any
      method to get the design on the cloth is great.

      Part of the technique, especially the use and brand of resist was delimited
      by James of the Lake, as follows:

      >>We stretch sheet or dollar-a-yard Wallmart fabric (mainly cotton or a high
      cotton-containing blend as you've stated) on a wooden frame and staple the
      fabric to the wood. Then we draw the design with washable magic markers (be
      sure to use a color that is lighter than the color which will be painted in
      that area since if painted over, the magic marker line will not wash out).
      [Note: we have since learned not to use magic markers since the solvent or
      dyes in them damage silk fabric.] Now take the resist (DekaSilk Resist) and
      squeeze this material out on the lines making sure it soaks through the
      fabric to the other side. Let dry. Then paint the area in the color desired
      with textile paint (Versatex, Siphon Art, PO Box 710, San Rafael, CA
      94915-0710). Paint to within a 1/4-inch of the dividing line at first until
      you find how the paint spreads (if the paint doesn't wick much, you can
      paint closer to the line initially), paint more closely to the line by
      degrees until the area is covered, then let dry. Take the fabric off the
      frame and iron it to set the paint before washing it to remove the
      construction lines. Finally, hem and/or attach loops, tassles, etc.

      James
      (who stays well away from paint!)<<

      If it is desireable that lines of division and or detailing lines of the
      charge remain visible, the silk resist comes both in clear and black. The
      black does not wash out, the clear leaves a white line _if the painting
      near the line is carefully done_.

      FABRIC-
      -China silk is a great fabric--takes the resist and dyes exceptionally
      well, flys beautifully- but is much more costly than the cottons. The
      resist, however, works best on silk. A properly applied line of resist
      impregnates the cloth and stops the paint from crossing. (there is a silk
      merchant on line who will sell it and other silks at low prices -- his
      current for china silk is @ 4.00 /yard, but you hsve to buy fairly large
      quantities. I had the info but lost it-I can get it from wife's mail--and
      will forward it under the screeen name 'Hyddyr")
      Size us usually just under 36"x 36" , although I made a 4' square banner of
      my and my wife's arms impaled that we fly on the roof of our pavilion--easy
      to see accross the field.

      DESIGN TRANSFER
      Any method is great. If you haven't the resources for making a
      transparency, a Xerox enlargement can be placed under the fabric and traced
      over-an advantage of the china silk is that this can be seen through the
      fabric

      FRAMING
      As James mentioned, we frame the fabric first. There are three major
      advantages to framing. The first is that you avoid the hassles of plastic
      on the work surface, as the frame lifts the cloth above the work surface,
      hence none goes through, the second is that the dye or paint then won't
      puddle on the painting surface and bleed across the resist lines on the
      underside of the fabric. (Get the resist-it really works as you can paint
      right up to the resist line with no bleed through. and Third, the fabric is
      _lightly_ stretched, so it doesn't shrink or warp while being painted, and
      has a good flat working surface that doesn't move while bein painted

      I make the frames out of scrap pine of 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 36" pieces of wood
      butt joined with the 3/4" face up. Staple the fabric keeping it flat, but
      do not stretch too tight or stretch across the bias. Now the fabric is
      raised 1-1/2" above any work surface.

      PAINTING
      Deka also makes a line of silk dyes intended to be painted on fabric. These
      come in a range of good, bright, saturated colors. Good Blue! good Green!
      good Purple! They provide rich colors without having to use mass quantity
      of color medium, they work beautifully with the resist, they are washable,
      and the fabric stays soft, so the banner flys nicely in the breeze. The
      colors lose a touch of brilliance when used on cotton, but they work with
      some synthetics. My pavillion banner is on 100% dacron, and the colors are
      true, fast, and brilliant. Application is best when applied with a sponge
      brush.
      Really--try the fabric dyes--they aare wonderful.

      FINISH
      Hem-add ties or pole loops and Display!

      to one and all interested in banner making, Greetings

      Addenda- Deka Silk Dyes

      The dyes come in 2 oz jars, and is called "flowable Silk Technique Paint"
      The colors we have used and like as heraldic are:

      #705 Poppy Red
      #713 Shamrock
      #708 Deep Lilac ( really nice purple)
      #709 Skyline Blue
      don' have the number for black

      Madawc

      available from dharma trading co., san rafael, ca. call 800.542.5227 for
      their free 120 pg catalog.
      The dyes we use are Deka Silk dyes, the mfr is Decart Inc., Morrisville, VT
      o5661

      #705 Poppy red
      708 deep lilac
      713 shamrock
      709 skyline blue

      I haven't done anything requiring black, so I haven't the number/name.

      Resist "Deka-silk resist" comes in clear (730) black (733) and silver (732)

      Outline the design in one of the resists--it is applied in such manner as to
      put it into the weave of the silk. Paint on the dyes--foam brushes work quite
      well. the resist prevents the dye from bleeding out of the design. Wash it,
      iron it, it is quite permanent.

      It will work on synthetics, I did a banner of an acrylic fiber that is quite
      nice, and on cotton, though not as well.

      madawc

      cheers.
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