Making Pennons/banners [was White bracer]
- At 2:09 PM 11/18/02 -0500, Tessa the Huntress wrote:
>I have plans on making an archer's pennon for use on the combat field, as aSome notes posted to the Society heraldry list on the topic of bannermaking
>rallying point and/or inspection point for archers. I figured I could use
>the same, since it would be my personal one.. to fly in my camp. If anyone
>has information to share on how it was made and/or tips in making it,
>including materials, paints, etc.. please let me know. I have some
>pictures and documents on how they looked, but I always love more
>I would love to see more archers pennons being used and shown on the field
>(be it combat and/or target) :)
>Tessa the Huntress
by myself and others a while back:
In a message dated 97-06-03 12:48:03 EDT, you write:
<< OOOHHHH!!! Wonderful!!!!!
Can you tell what process you use to make yours? Do you paint them? If so,
what type/brand of paints do you use? What type of cloth? Etc.
I've already seen your description, and was going to send this along anyway-
Our technique-I believe first used by Baron Bruce--begins very like yours
in terms of getting the line drawing onto the cloth. Bruce, of course, just
draws the device , lightly with pencil, on the cloth. Other folk have
photo-enlarged ( xerox)the drawing and place it just beneath the cloth and
trace over it with resist. (see below for resist info) At any rate, any
method to get the design on the cloth is great.
Part of the technique, especially the use and brand of resist was delimited
by James of the Lake, as follows:
>>We stretch sheet or dollar-a-yard Wallmart fabric (mainly cotton or a highcotton-containing blend as you've stated) on a wooden frame and staple the
fabric to the wood. Then we draw the design with washable magic markers (be
sure to use a color that is lighter than the color which will be painted in
that area since if painted over, the magic marker line will not wash out).
[Note: we have since learned not to use magic markers since the solvent or
dyes in them damage silk fabric.] Now take the resist (DekaSilk Resist) and
squeeze this material out on the lines making sure it soaks through the
fabric to the other side. Let dry. Then paint the area in the color desired
with textile paint (Versatex, Siphon Art, PO Box 710, San Rafael, CA
94915-0710). Paint to within a 1/4-inch of the dividing line at first until
you find how the paint spreads (if the paint doesn't wick much, you can
paint closer to the line initially), paint more closely to the line by
degrees until the area is covered, then let dry. Take the fabric off the
frame and iron it to set the paint before washing it to remove the
construction lines. Finally, hem and/or attach loops, tassles, etc.
(who stays well away from paint!)<<
If it is desireable that lines of division and or detailing lines of the
charge remain visible, the silk resist comes both in clear and black. The
black does not wash out, the clear leaves a white line _if the painting
near the line is carefully done_.
-China silk is a great fabric--takes the resist and dyes exceptionally
well, flys beautifully- but is much more costly than the cottons. The
resist, however, works best on silk. A properly applied line of resist
impregnates the cloth and stops the paint from crossing. (there is a silk
merchant on line who will sell it and other silks at low prices -- his
current for china silk is @ 4.00 /yard, but you hsve to buy fairly large
quantities. I had the info but lost it-I can get it from wife's mail--and
will forward it under the screeen name 'Hyddyr")
Size us usually just under 36"x 36" , although I made a 4' square banner of
my and my wife's arms impaled that we fly on the roof of our pavilion--easy
to see accross the field.
Any method is great. If you haven't the resources for making a
transparency, a Xerox enlargement can be placed under the fabric and traced
over-an advantage of the china silk is that this can be seen through the
As James mentioned, we frame the fabric first. There are three major
advantages to framing. The first is that you avoid the hassles of plastic
on the work surface, as the frame lifts the cloth above the work surface,
hence none goes through, the second is that the dye or paint then won't
puddle on the painting surface and bleed across the resist lines on the
underside of the fabric. (Get the resist-it really works as you can paint
right up to the resist line with no bleed through. and Third, the fabric is
_lightly_ stretched, so it doesn't shrink or warp while being painted, and
has a good flat working surface that doesn't move while bein painted
I make the frames out of scrap pine of 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 36" pieces of wood
butt joined with the 3/4" face up. Staple the fabric keeping it flat, but
do not stretch too tight or stretch across the bias. Now the fabric is
raised 1-1/2" above any work surface.
Deka also makes a line of silk dyes intended to be painted on fabric. These
come in a range of good, bright, saturated colors. Good Blue! good Green!
good Purple! They provide rich colors without having to use mass quantity
of color medium, they work beautifully with the resist, they are washable,
and the fabric stays soft, so the banner flys nicely in the breeze. The
colors lose a touch of brilliance when used on cotton, but they work with
some synthetics. My pavillion banner is on 100% dacron, and the colors are
true, fast, and brilliant. Application is best when applied with a sponge
Really--try the fabric dyes--they aare wonderful.
Hem-add ties or pole loops and Display!
to one and all interested in banner making, Greetings
Addenda- Deka Silk Dyes
The dyes come in 2 oz jars, and is called "flowable Silk Technique Paint"
The colors we have used and like as heraldic are:
#705 Poppy Red
#708 Deep Lilac ( really nice purple)
#709 Skyline Blue
don' have the number for black
available from dharma trading co., san rafael, ca. call 800.542.5227 for
their free 120 pg catalog.
The dyes we use are Deka Silk dyes, the mfr is Decart Inc., Morrisville, VT
#705 Poppy red
708 deep lilac
709 skyline blue
I haven't done anything requiring black, so I haven't the number/name.
Resist "Deka-silk resist" comes in clear (730) black (733) and silver (732)
Outline the design in one of the resists--it is applied in such manner as to
put it into the weave of the silk. Paint on the dyes--foam brushes work quite
well. the resist prevents the dye from bleeding out of the design. Wash it,
iron it, it is quite permanent.
It will work on synthetics, I did a banner of an acrylic fiber that is quite
nice, and on cotton, though not as well.