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978Re: Woodcutting aggravation (aka "Lumber bummer")

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  • Håkan Hedrén
    Oct 30, 1999
      D Humberson wrote:

      > From: "D Humberson" <dhumbers@...>
      > Milord,
      > If you are just trying for a smooth flat surface, try a long-body plane.
      > They have various names, but basically are the ones at least a foot long.
      > The longer plane body makes for smoother, flatter surfaces.
      > If you are working on the back of a bow, flat is not the question: you want
      > to find and follow a single growth ring the entire length of the bow. For
      > that, a flat base spokeshave is a much better tool.


      Not exactly true....it depends on where in the tree your stave comes from or
      rather, the desired growth ring.
      Higly crowned staves (cut near the core with a severe curvature of the growth
      ring) will often benefit from a flatter surface even though growth rings are
      violated. The grain has to parallell the length of the limb as much as possible
      though to make a durable bow.. Last but not least the length of the bow and its
      draw weight plays an important factor as well.

      Having said that I must agree on the long planes for a flat surface. For
      working your way down to a single growth ring, try a not-too-dull knife. It
      works miracles on many conifers, slicing right through the spongy early wood but
      riding on the harder late wood.

      To prevent the spokeshave/drawknife from doing "dip-cuts", have you tried
      angling it a little sideways ? It has helped me a few times, but areas near
      pins/knots are tricky most of the time, that's when i tend to switch to the

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