978Re: Woodcutting aggravation (aka "Lumber bummer")
- Oct 30, 1999D Humberson wrote:
> From: "D Humberson" <dhumbers@...><snip>
> If you are just trying for a smooth flat surface, try a long-body plane.
> They have various names, but basically are the ones at least a foot long.
> The longer plane body makes for smoother, flatter surfaces.
> If you are working on the back of a bow, flat is not the question: you want
> to find and follow a single growth ring the entire length of the bow. For
> that, a flat base spokeshave is a much better tool.
Not exactly true....it depends on where in the tree your stave comes from or
rather, the desired growth ring.
Higly crowned staves (cut near the core with a severe curvature of the growth
ring) will often benefit from a flatter surface even though growth rings are
violated. The grain has to parallell the length of the limb as much as possible
though to make a durable bow.. Last but not least the length of the bow and its
draw weight plays an important factor as well.
Having said that I must agree on the long planes for a flat surface. For
working your way down to a single growth ring, try a not-too-dull knife. It
works miracles on many conifers, slicing right through the spongy early wood but
riding on the harder late wood.
To prevent the spokeshave/drawknife from doing "dip-cuts", have you tried
angling it a little sideways ? It has helped me a few times, but areas near
pins/knots are tricky most of the time, that's when i tend to switch to the
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