## 33812Re: [SCA-Archery] Strings newbie help?

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• Jul 3, 2013
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> Flemish Twist is at
> http://www.stickbow.com/stickbow/features/flemishstring/flemishstring.html

I have enough STUFF already and this bulky item only does _one_ thing.

BTW, the infinitive of the verb for the twisting we do to make one of
these strings is "to twine".

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"FLEMISH" BOWSTRINGS - WITHOUT THE JIG

All you need to make a bowstring is the string material, some beeswax,
the bow, a sharp knife (scissors will do if you aren't safe with a
knife), and two hands (though I know a kid who I bet can do this with
his only hand.)

Cut all your strands the same length; about a hand-span longer than the bow.

Cut enough strands for their total strength to equal four times the
poundage of the bow. This number is X. Make sure it's an even number,
have an extra instead of going short.

Make two bundles with equal numbers of strands.

Shift the strands in each bundle relative to each other, 1/8", 3/16",
even 1/4".
It depends on the size and number of the strands and the sort of taper
you want.

Draw the strands over the wax in a group until you have wax enough on
them to keep them in order.

Add X/4 10" strands at one end of each bundle, these will strengthen the
loop.

Stagger their ends too.

Wax them in.

Lay the reinforced ends of the bundles next to each other with the
remaining strands headed in opposite directions.
(This is more awkward than having the bundles heading in the same
direction, but I'm more comfortable with the idea of the actual bundles
pulling _against_ each other. Same direction may be fine, but I don't
know it.)

Twine the center until you have enough for the loop to slide partway
down the top of the bow.

Join the legs together, long with short, and twine about an inch past
the end of the last reinforcing strand.

Leave the strands straight (and _equally_ tensioned) until about four
inches above your expected nocking point. (Everything's going to
stretch, you may even have to re-twine this string once it has. It's a
learning experience.)

Twine the bundles for an inch.

Add in a 12" or 14" strand by its center. Adding half of it to each bundle.

Add another such strand by its center.

Continue adding strands in this manner until you have achieved the
thickness required to fit the nocks of your arrows.
(Do a test beforehand so you know how many to cut.)

Twine about an inch past the end of the last reinforcing strand.

About 11" from the ends of the bundles, twine the bundles for an inch.

As with the nocking area, add in X/4 20" strands by their centers. These
will reinforce the area that will become the bowyer's knot or timber

Twine until there's nothing left.

I often finish with the smallest figure-8 knot I can manage at the very tip.

Ta da! Bowstring!
One that you need not worry about untwisting.

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I leave the straight parts as long as I can, a string that is entirely
twined is springy and less efficient than otherwise. And it's faster to
make.

string has stretched (in the heat of the day (can we not talk about how
I know this)) you can make fine adjustments by twisting the string
tighter. And if need be, looser.

I have made strings in this manner _on_the_range_ at Pensic for myself
and for others. No jigs, just wax, string, and a knife. 30 to 45 minutes.
You can do it too.