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33036Re: Wooden arrows banned from archery ranges?

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  • Rusty McMillan
    Apr 11, 2013
      Jon,

      I had already planned on the jig and drill press (although the one I have is a bit oversized for the task). Thanks for the tip on the countersink bit. Do you actually use the countersink function for a depression where the brad gets peened, or is this just for the strength of the thick portion of the bit in support of the thin tip?

      Randal

      --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, John Edgerton <sirjon1@...> wrote:
      >
      > Make a jig to hold the shafts in place. The process works best with a drill
      > press, but can be done with a hand drill. The thin drill bits tend to flex, so
      > you need to place the bit as far up the chuck as you can to reduce its flexing.
      >
      > A center drill countersink bit works well for making the started hole. See:
      >
      > http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Lathe-Mill-CENTER-DRILL-COUNTERSINK-Bit-Tooling-SET-/230561777243
      >
      >
      > Jon
      >
      >
      >
      > ________________________________
      > From: Rusty McMillan <randal_of_camusfearna@...>
      > To: SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com
      > Sent: Wed, April 10, 2013 9:47:11 AM
      > Subject: [SCA-Archery] Re: Wooden arrows banned from archery ranges?
      >
      >
      > Our Barony purchased six dozen wooden arrows from a local shop a couple of years
      > ago to use as loaners for beginners. They had a bad batch of glue or some other
      > problem, as more than a dozen points have since come off in our Saunders butts.
      > I just ordered replacement points, and plan to use your wire brad technique to
      > prefent further losses.
      >
      > Randal
      >
      > --- In SCA-Archery@yahoogroups.com, John Edgerton <sirjon1@> wrote:
      > >
      > > What I do to prevent any of my points from coming loose works very well, but is
      > >
      > > more labor intensive than just glueing them on.
      > >
      > > I drill a small hole, just large enough to take a wire brad nail, all the way
      > > through the base of the field tip and the shaft inside it. I then insert the
      > > brad and cut it off. The cut off end and the head of the brad are then filed
      > > almost smooth. They do not come off by accident. But, you can file one end of
      >
      > > the brad all the way down and then drive it out and remove the field point.
      > >
      > > Jon
      > >
      >
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