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32779Legal / Stable / Butts: Was Target Height

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  • JDS
    Mar 3, 2013
      Hello All

      (I think I skimmed all the posts)
      ( I ramble on about a few things in the last week)

      Legal or Not: Always be careful, be aware.

      I will not advise you to break a law.

      I do not want any one Hurt or Fined / Arrested.

      Law Yes:
      Some places do classify bows,sling shots,
      blow guns,pellet/BB guns and other diverse
      (FUN) things with firearms for the sake of law.

      One of the First rules/top 10 of shooting
      is know your back drop & over shoot.
      (& know your travel distance)

      A board fence will not stop a bullet
      (maybe not an arrow either )
      (some of the Good pellet guns punch right through too)

      & an arrow can travel
      100's of Yards / Meters
      (York Round, 100 Yards can be done with 20~25# bow)

      Unless a bow Hunter/Competitor * I *
      see little need /use
      for over say 45# (no extra points for macho)

      If you do hunt or compete with 45#+ use it then.

      With all that In mind I would Check your
      local law/ordnance's

      (better on line or in print,local archery /gun shop,
      no need to tell on your self by asking police)
      (though they might tell you no problem as long
      as not one gets hurt or complains)

      (funny Ordnance can mean law or weapons/ guns/munitions )

      Once you determine the law and your level of compliance...

      ( talk to the neighbors also)

      Look at how the houses and public areas /roads,others
      yards etc are situated.
      Very much look for windows & doors,paths sidewalks.

      Think Out side of the box

      You might find a better 20(+) yards shooting towards
      your house or into your garage.
      (possibly from inside to the out side)

      5 yards is (probably ) enough to work on your
      load ,draw & release.

      The SCA rule of thumb is IIRC double your
      longest distance for over shoot
      back stops can take care of some of that.
      (a house or garage will block/stop a lot of bad shooting )

      There is the catch 22 /paradox that the higher
      and wider your back stop is the more it should catch
      it also blocks your visibility and means if you shoot over
      it the farther the arrow will likely go.

      Best bet is not to miss the target
      (accidents do happen)

      Extreme set up would be make a Tunnel of netting
      or other material. giving the arrow no place to
      get out in the whole distance.
      (Think a batting cage for archery. which
      might even satisfy the local law)

      LOl You could even buy a shipping container or three.
      (sweet imagine a 50 yard indoor- out side range for
      One or two shooters at a time)

      you can hang netting etc so you shoot though a "window"
      a Gap/slot
      or below a curtain thus keeping you from Arcing your
      arrows too much.

      Some one had posted some thing about that(curtains)
      in a training /competition setting a month ago?
      It keeps you shooting your flattest Trajectory.

      (old carpet is handy Material )

      Side note I advise(newer) people(or new range)
      to shoot low /lower and work your way up to the target
      rather than shooting over.

      Its safer and you don't have to look as hard
      for your arrows.
      (should you miss)(I do miss the target occasionally)

      I advise (especially when limited over shoot/back stop)
      against what is some times called
      the hunters draw
      when you point the arrow in the air draw while
      bringing the bow down on to target, if you slip its
      a flight /distance shoot.

      Support for Bales & butts
      I did not go in to that when I posted before.

      ~4 Bales unsupported is as high
      as I (generally)like to go. It does
      depend on the bales & the ground

      Yes please cap your support or use more bales
      (or some such)
      for mounted archery.

      a cap is nice to avoid cuts for people too.

      We have found that Re bar works nicely &
      preferable to a T post. T posts seem to get
      torn up and bend & are harder to remove.
      (sandy ground the T post may be better )

      They also cost more & take up more space.

      I personally prefer the Re bar behind the
      bales /butt rather than driven through.
      (easier drive in & to move I think )

      I it only has to be strong enough to keep
      the bales/butt from moving or falling

      A post pounder is nice to have and IMHO
      slicker and safer than a hammer.

      if you have a wooden frame (like for Saunders mats)
      you can anchor it with a rope and stake or
      through/ around the legs

      (Very sad sound when big wind blows over a
      SM full of arrows. we all cringed )

      Anchor your back stop and or put it far enough
      back it wont fall on your butt (see above note)

      Whistling arrow & more.
      Check out that target butt. I think that will
      last a while even with broad heads.


      You can make that style
      out of many different materials.

      Since I have deleted most the messages
      I think that covers most the points
      counter points and questions.

      Hope it might be of some use.

      In Service
      An Tir
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