16036Re: [SCA-Archery] Event differences/Seeking advice
- Sep 1, 2004Sure, a higher poundage will get a flatter trajectory. But it will make
it harder to learn good form and your 26 should work just fine at these
short distances. I had a gal with a 25 # bow dropping nearly on the pin
of a 90 yard clout! So, what's next? Your release. We really haven't
gotten into releases here yet so this is kind of new territory. Let's
see if I can get this across.
First off, some basics. The power for your draw comes from your back,
not your arms or shoulders. In fact, the muscles of your arms should be
slightly relaxed even at full draw. You want this tension in your back
to continue through your release and into the follow through. This gives
what is called an active release as opposed to a dead release.
A dead release is one in which the archer pulls to his anchor point,
stops and simply opens his fingers. It's good, steady and doesn't
introduce errors to the arrow. But it robs his shot of power. Once the
archer stops pulling the bow begins to lose energy and the longer he
waits the slower his shot (the less cast it has). This means that more
arc is needed to get downrange. On the other hand, an active release is
one in which the archer prepares his shot in advance, draws to where his
site picture is where he expects it to be as he reaches his anchor (yes
even instinctive archers have site pictures, they just have them so
ingrained that they are conscious of them), hesitates for an instant to
be sure everything is right, and pulls through, relaxing his fingers on
the way getting a fast, efficient release. The archer's hand ends up
behind his anchor during follow through. For example, my anchor is under
my chin with the string touching my nose, both lips, and the center of my
chin. My thumb is resting under and against my jaw. As I release, ma
hand continues back and ends up under my ear. That is, if I do it right.
This is the active release.
Using this release I was able to get flat shots from a 33# bow at 60
yards. One of the tricks here is to never, never let your back relax
once your start drawing until you complete your follow through. You will
also want to powder your string fingers. I like a mix of 50/50 baby
powder and corn starch. Rub it into your string hand before putting on
your glove or tab, then powder your glove or tab as well. Keep
reapplying until the leather is well saturated.
This will give you an impressive increase in arrow speed and accuracy.
On Wed, 1 Sep 2004 00:07:17 -0700 (PDT) Sharon Macielinski
> Sounds exciting! Unfortunately I think we're stuck with the 20/30/40________________________________________________________________
> business, and timed shoots make no sense. Oh well!
> Alrighty guys... I need advice again... my instructor is trying to
> tell me that my 26 lb pull on my 30-35lb longbow should have no
> problems hitting 30 and 40 yard targets. I have been fussing
> because I wanted a heavier bow and am frustrated trying to figure
> out the "arc" thing in order to hit the target accurately.
> My form and anchor points are just fine, so my difficulty is
> figuring out how far above the target to aim... even with a good
> anchor point/release I get random arrow speeds!! ANY HINTS?
> Also, I don't believe that I would have no advantage with a higher
> poundage bow. Isn't an arrow that flies straight more
> accurate/consistent than one that has to arc to hit a target? It's
> like a crossbow would have no advantage! Hmmmmm....
> Thanks as always for all the great advice!
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