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Mythical tunnles :o)

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  • IGGY & Svetlana
    ... From: beekilher To: RoboMower@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 12:16 PM Subject: [RoboMower] Re: Ambrogio vs. FR The RL1000 can only do zone A
    Message 1 of 1 , Jun 2, 2005
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      ----- Original Message -----
      From: beekilher
      To: RoboMower@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 12:16 PM
      Subject: [RoboMower] Re: Ambrogio vs. FR

      The RL1000 can only do zone A (dock zone) automatically but you can
      program it to enter at four different points along
      The P-wire in zone A. The default entry points are dock station,
      130% to 160% of the P-wire distance for
      the other three. But no matter where you start the mower it will try
      to mow all of zone A. There is a pass through
      which needs to be 5 feet wide on the RL1000. This pass through I
      don't believe is the mythical tunnel that is spoken of in
      this form, but the minimal width that the RL1000 can work in. This
      is what I read from the RL1000 manual. No metion of a tunnel.
      The manual even states that to do zones b, c and d that you need to
      manually start in those zones. The zones
      are only time settings the mower does not know whether zone B is the
      front back or side yard. The FAQ states
      on average 1500 sq. feet an hour. The first year 6000 sq.ft. less
      the second year 4000 to 6000sq.ft. per battery charge.
      They also state 20,000sq.ft. mowing every day for the week must be
      four day work week Union Contract or some thing. They also seem to
      inter mix zones, areas and plots in their descriptions

      My RL500 does back zone (6,500 sq. feet) on 2-2.5 hours on my 4 year old battery. It doesn't do it perfectly anymore, I use the second battery to finish it up - also 4 years old 2-2.5 hours. This does the trick. I noticed that if I have the front wheel on height 5-6 the quality of mowing is wose than on shorter settings 2-4. Long grass tend to be pressed by the mower down and the blades may not get it all the time, while shorter more coarse grass pops up and the blades can hit it well. Newer mowers 850 and 1000 should have no problems at all to mow a zone of 6,000-7,000 with more effiencey (10-15% more than my outdated RL500) and fresh battery.

      "Mythical" tunnles sketch of my house is below. I have 3 of them - A, B, C on about 17,000 sq. feet lot. The tunnel is NOT the "close vertical wires" - A, B, C - these are basically laying next to each other to cancel the signal out and the mower doesn't go there, "tunnle" is horizonal lines between the zones 1.5-2 feet between them, the mower mowes them very well, I need to make some adjustments on Zone #1 but because is a bit steep the mower is pushed down by gravity and it interferes with the tunnel, therfore, I am keeping this tunnel a bit iwder and have to manually mow the tunnel when I move the mower.

      My expereince with RL500 has been that you can have a "tunnel" between different zones created about 1.5-2 feet and the mower will still follow the wire within the "tunnled zone" and will not be distracted by the other wires on the other side.

      #1) maintain the whole perimeter of the yard for different zones on one wire so you don't have to move the perimeter switch between zones
      #2) in the future when there is a need for upgrade for RL1000+ model it's easy to fold those "tunnels" and peg the wire to the main permieter alloing the mower 2-3 feet of space to go through the tunnel on "learn edge" when it's programmed to enter the particular zone.

      Right now the tunnels are preventing teh mower from crossing into the other zones, however, when there is a need for RL1000, the tunnels can be easkly "widened" to 3-4 feet to allow the mower to get through without interfereing on "entry to zone" mode. I think the 5 feet is too wide for a tunnel, it's operating/mowing width it can handle. I think 3-4 feet would do the trick, the mower will still edge the tunnle, you may adjust the wire and see how it goes, you may have to manually mow a bit as the two wires so close may push the mower to the outside of the zone to avoid a conflic twith the wire.

      This is how "tunnels" are structured in my yard - not to scale and not directioanlly correct. This is all on one wire that I had to splice with siicone connectors.
      ______ __________
      I I I I
      I I DRIVE I front zone I
      I I I__________I
      I side I _II A
      I zone I I I
      I #2 I HOUSE I I side zone #1
      I I I I
      I ______I switch X I _ I
      C II________________II_____II_ B
      I I
      I back zone I

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