Yeah, I came to the same conclusion! I came up with a plan and did the
same thing with my tires.
I screwed them into the plastic at a few points. The trick was the
joint. I used a Dremel sanding drum to grind off all the tread over a
1" overlap area, put in under the other end and used the black
"flexible" cyanoacrylate krazy glue. Put a screw through it near the
edge. Doesn't want to pull up.
I was talking to a tech support guy at Robomower and he warned that the
software was sensitive to tire diameter changes and it would cause it to
wiggle back and forth instead of going straight. I've seen that
sometimes but it's pretty rare, normally it's straight.
If I do it again, I may grind off the remainder of the old tread
features. Not only would this get rid of the possible software
compatability problem but right now the end tire width is dangerously
close to rubbing the bumper, though in the end it does clear it.
IMHO these bikes tires are much better than the stock tire tread. They
grip better and they seem to be a lot stronger rubber than the original
rubber coating. If you've seen them wear down, the tread features are
actually cast into the plastic, the rubber is just some sort of coating
on top of it.
>Use a 20" or larger knobby bicycle tire and rubber cement. Cut the tire
>into two pieces 30" long by 2 1/4" wide. The length will need to be
>trimmed when gluing. Follow the rubber cement instructions for gluing.
>The tire can be salvaged from the trash, bought at a garage sale or a
>discount store for less than $7. Rubber cement, you will need more than
>one small tube per wheel. My total cost for three sets is $5 for a
>large can of rubber cement. Harbor Freight sells 10" hand truck tires
>for $4.99 ITEM 30900 when on sale that may work well too.
> Do your math c=pi x d to get the circumference.
>BeeKilHer Buzz! Swat! Splat!
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