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Marquee center poles

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  • Dave
    I just had a center pole snap in half on our small marquee (really a diamond/pyramid fly). What would be the best recommendation for a 10 foot center pole
    Message 1 of 10 , Jun 1, 2009
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      I just had a center pole snap in half on our small "marquee" (really a diamond/pyramid fly). What would be the best recommendation for a 10 foot center pole for such a use, wood type and dimensions? I have heard everything from sawn lumber like oak to cut maple saplings to laminated poles. I got a twisty pine branch that is long enough but heavy as hell (still green and sappy).

      Dave H
      3NH
    • gregsandor
      You could drill a hole a quarter or a third of the diameter of the pole 5 or so into each of the broken ends without removing the remaining splinters. Use a
      Message 2 of 10 , Jun 1, 2009
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        You could drill a hole a quarter or a third of the diameter of the pole 5" or so into each of the broken ends without removing the remaining splinters. Use a good hide glue, glue a dowel into one end, apply pressure and let dry, then fit and glue the two halves together, again clamping tight. If you don't have a wood shop you might have a local cabinet maker who can do it.

        --- In Revlist@yahoogroups.com, "Dave" <warbow67@...> wrote:
        >
        > I just had a center pole snap in half on our small "marquee" (really a diamond/pyramid fly). What would be the best recommendation for a 10 foot center pole for such a use, wood type and dimensions? I have heard everything from sawn lumber like oak to cut maple saplings to laminated poles. I got a twisty pine branch that is long enough but heavy as hell (still green and sappy).
        >
        > Dave H
        > 3NH
        >
      • James Stewart
        Good Day!!! I bought a new single center pole marquee this past spring. From there I had to figure what would be transportable in the 12 9 center pole. I
        Message 3 of 10 , Jun 1, 2009
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          Good Day!!!

          I bought a new single center pole marquee this past spring. From there I had
          to figure what would be transportable in the 12' 9" center pole. I purchased
          a piece of square box steel that required a 2 - 3/8" square post on the
          inside. It is about 24" long and 1/4" thick wall. I then proceeded to cut
          some white oak boards into the square stock to fit into the box steel piece.
          I placed a carriage bolt in the top portion of the post and steel sleeve
          after painting the sleeve. The lower portion of the post is 8' long and
          slips into the sleeve after waxing it heavily. It requires no bolt since
          gravity and the weight of the marquee holds it together. You might say this
          is over designed and very heavy, but I know it will not give me any problems
          under normal weather conditions we experience at most reenactments.

          I hope this helps.

          Thank you again...
          Your Most Humble and Obedient Servant...
          Peace,
          James - (Seamus) in the Celtic world
          Ye Olde 18th C Sign Carver
          Indentured to my Master for God only knows how long...
          Woods Unlimited by James Stewart
          18 Scenic Circle
          Rochester, New York 14624-1008
          585-594-9663
          www.woodsunltd.com
          james@...
          -----Original Message-----
          From: Revlist@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Revlist@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
          gregsandor
          Sent: Monday, June 01, 2009 5:13 AM
          To: Revlist@yahoogroups.com
          Subject: [Revlist] Re: Marquee center poles





          You could drill a hole a quarter or a third of the diameter of the pole 5"
          or so into each of the broken ends without removing the remaining splinters.
          Use a good hide glue, glue a dowel into one end, apply pressure and let dry,
          then fit and glue the two halves together, again clamping tight. If you
          don't have a wood shop you might have a local cabinet maker who can do it.

          --- In Revlist@yahoogroups.com, "Dave" <warbow67@...> wrote:
          >
          > I just had a center pole snap in half on our small "marquee" (really a
          diamond/pyramid fly). What would be the best recommendation for a 10 foot
          center pole for such a use, wood type and dimensions? I have heard
          everything from sawn lumber like oak to cut maple saplings to laminated
          poles. I got a twisty pine branch that is long enough but heavy as hell
          (still green and sappy).
          >
          > Dave H
          > 3NH
          >






          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • Tw Moran
          I built my poles such that they telescope. A clear pine laminated 2 by 2 center rides in a 5/4s pine box. Down it is 8 . up it s 13 6 . It uses an internal
          Message 4 of 10 , Jun 1, 2009
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            I built my poles such that they telescope. A clear pine laminated 2" by
            2" center rides in a 5/4s pine box. Down it is 8'. up it's 13' 6'.
            It uses an internal pulley and rope to raise it.
            It was getting to be to much to try and raise two thirteen foot poles
            by my self.
            With these and the specially designed ridge pole ends. Steel plates
            on top of the ridge pole with holes in them for the uprights' pins: I
            can have as much as 160 degrees of swivel and not twist the ridge pole
            while I am lifting the uprights into place.
            If your interested in the plans, contact me off list and I will send
            you drawings of how they are built.

            Tw twmoran@...

            Dave wrote:
            > I just had a center pole snap in half on our small "marquee" (really
            > a diamond/pyramid fly). What would be the best recommendation for a
            > 10 foot center pole for such a use, wood type and dimensions? I have
            > heard everything from sawn lumber like oak to cut maple saplings to
            > laminated poles. I got a twisty pine branch that is long enough but
            > heavy as hell (still green and sappy).
            >
            > Dave H 3NH
            >
            >
            >
          • Dave
            ... *************************************** The original pole is garbage, an ancient 2X4 that is rotted and has now been disposed of. It was a rush application
            Message 5 of 10 , Jun 2, 2009
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              --- In Revlist@yahoogroups.com, "gregsandor" <gregory_sandor@...> wrote:
              >
              > You could drill a hole a quarter or a third of the diameter of the pole 5" or so into each of the broken ends without removing the remaining splinters. Use a good hide glue, glue a dowel into one end, apply pressure and let dry, then fit and glue the two halves together, again clamping tight. If you don't have a wood shop you might have a local cabinet maker who can do it.

              ***************************************

              The original pole is garbage, an ancient 2X4 that is rotted and has now been disposed of. It was a rush application when the canvas was first bought.

              Dave H
              3NH
            • Dave
              Well thank you everyone, but I am not interested in a sectional pole, it is only 10 feet, transport is not a problem. What I am looking for is advice on
              Message 6 of 10 , Jun 2, 2009
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                Well thank you everyone, but I am not interested in a sectional pole, it is only 10 feet, transport is not a problem. What I am looking for is advice on material, Maple Sapling VS Lumbered Oak VS Pine Branch VS Laminated Lumber (glued and screwed 2x4s), etc, etc.

                Plus what cross-section dimensions are best to carry the weight load? A 2x2 is not a real 2x2, it is 1.5"X1.5" and I am not sure that it is sufficient to bear the weight load. So I considered cutting a full 2.5"x2.5", yet there are associated problems with getting the lumber (clear, free of knots, and left over wood from a full width plank). Another option is to take a pair of pine 2x4s and glue and screw them together then mill it down to size.

                So what is the best option?

                Dave H
                3NH




                ********************************************


                --- In Revlist@yahoogroups.com, Tw Moran <twmoran@...> wrote:

                > I built my poles such that they telescope. A clear pine laminated 2" by
                > 2" center rides in a 5/4s pine box. Down it is 8'. up it's 13' 6'.
                > It uses an internal pulley and rope to raise it.
                > It was getting to be to much to try and raise two thirteen foot poles
                > by my self.
                > With these and the specially designed ridge pole ends. Steel plates
                > on top of the ridge pole with holes in them for the uprights' pins: I
                > can have as much as 160 degrees of swivel and not twist the ridge pole
                > while I am lifting the uprights into place.
                > If your interested in the plans, contact me off list and I will send
                > you drawings of how they are built.
                >
                > Tw twmoran@...
                >
                > Dave wrote:
                > > I just had a center pole snap in half on our small "marquee" (really
                > > a diamond/pyramid fly). What would be the best recommendation for a
                > > 10 foot center pole for such a use, wood type and dimensions? I have
                > > heard everything from sawn lumber like oak to cut maple saplings to
                > > laminated poles. I got a twisty pine branch that is long enough but
                > > heavy as hell (still green and sappy).
                > >
                > > Dave H 3NH
                > >
                > >
                > >
                >
              • Tw Moran
                One ten foot clear pine 6/4 s thick by 6 inches. Cut in half lengthwise. glue and dowel matching faces together. Thus as it tries to warp the to halves will
                Message 7 of 10 , Jun 2, 2009
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                  One ten foot clear pine 6/4's thick by 6 inches. Cut in half lengthwise.
                  glue and dowel matching faces together. Thus as it tries to warp the
                  to halves will cancel each other out. More than strong enough and still
                  light.
                  T

                  Dave wrote:
                  > Well thank you everyone, but I am not interested in a sectional pole, it is only 10 feet, transport is not a problem. What I am looking for is advice on material, Maple Sapling VS Lumbered Oak VS Pine Branch VS Laminated Lumber (glued and screwed 2x4s), etc, etc.
                  >
                  > Plus what cross-section dimensions are best to carry the weight load? A 2x2 is not a real 2x2, it is 1.5"X1.5" and I am not sure that it is sufficient to bear the weight load. So I considered cutting a full 2.5"x2.5", yet there are associated problems with getting the lumber (clear, free of knots, and left over wood from a full width plank). Another option is to take a pair of pine 2x4s and glue and screw them together then mill it down to size.
                  >
                  > So what is the best option?
                  >
                  > Dave H
                  > 3NH
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > ********************************************
                  >
                  >
                  > --- In Revlist@yahoogroups.com, Tw Moran <twmoran@...> wrote:
                  >
                  >> I built my poles such that they telescope. A clear pine laminated 2" by
                  >> 2" center rides in a 5/4s pine box. Down it is 8'. up it's 13' 6'.
                  >> It uses an internal pulley and rope to raise it.
                  >> It was getting to be to much to try and raise two thirteen foot poles
                  >> by my self.
                  >> With these and the specially designed ridge pole ends. Steel plates
                  >> on top of the ridge pole with holes in them for the uprights' pins: I
                  >> can have as much as 160 degrees of swivel and not twist the ridge pole
                  >> while I am lifting the uprights into place.
                  >> If your interested in the plans, contact me off list and I will send
                  >> you drawings of how they are built.
                  >>
                  >> Tw twmoran@...
                  >>
                  >> Dave wrote:
                  >>> I just had a center pole snap in half on our small "marquee" (really
                  >>> a diamond/pyramid fly). What would be the best recommendation for a
                  >>> 10 foot center pole for such a use, wood type and dimensions? I have
                  >>> heard everything from sawn lumber like oak to cut maple saplings to
                  >>> laminated poles. I got a twisty pine branch that is long enough but
                  >>> heavy as hell (still green and sappy).
                  >>>
                  >>> Dave H 3NH
                  >>>
                  >>>
                  >>>
                  >
                  >
                  >
                • Sgt42RHR@aol.com
                  Dave, no need to go over the top here. We have very big marquee supported by two center poles. Each is 2 octagonal oak. They are many years old and are
                  Message 8 of 10 , Jun 2, 2009
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                    Dave, no need to go over the top here. We have very big marquee supported
                    by two center poles. Each is 2" octagonal oak. They are many years old
                    and are solid as can be. Simple and easy--and strong.

                    Cheers,
                    John

                    John M. Johnston,
                    "There is a fine line between hobby and mental illness." Dave Barry
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                    eExcfooterNO62)


                    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  • Dan H
                    I use a fairly straight hemlock pole, I found a sapling the diameter I wanted, cut it down, cut the bark off, when it dried it is pretty strong, and fairly
                    Message 9 of 10 , Jun 3, 2009
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                      I use a fairly straight hemlock pole, I
                      found a sapling the diameter I wanted, cut it down, cut the bark off, when it dried it is pretty strong, and fairly light, and FREE.
                      Dan H



                      ________________________________
                      From: Dave <warbow67@...>
                      To: Revlist@yahoogroups.com
                      Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2009 8:44:57 AM
                      Subject: [Revlist] Re: Telescoping Marquee center poles





                      Well thank you everyone, but I am not interested in a sectional pole, it is only 10 feet, transport is not a problem. What I am looking for is advice on material, Maple Sapling VS Lumbered Oak VS Pine Branch VS Laminated Lumber (glued and screwed 2x4s), etc, etc.

                      Plus what cross-section dimensions are best to carry the weight load? A 2x2 is not a real 2x2, it is 1.5"X1.5" and I am not sure that it is sufficient to bear the weight load. So I considered cutting a full 2.5"x2.5", yet there are associated problems with getting the lumber (clear, free of knots, and left over wood from a full width plank). Another option is to take a pair of pine 2x4s and glue and screw them together then mill it down to size.

                      So what is the best option?

                      Dave H
                      3NH

                      ************ ********* ********* ********* *****

                      --- In Revlist@yahoogroups .com, Tw Moran <twmoran@... > wrote:

                      > I built my poles such that they telescope.. A clear pine laminated 2" by
                      > 2" center rides in a 5/4s pine box. Down it is 8'. up it's 13' 6'.
                      > It uses an internal pulley and rope to raise it.
                      > It was getting to be to much to try and raise two thirteen foot poles
                      > by my self.
                      > With these and the specially designed ridge pole ends. Steel plates
                      > on top of the ridge pole with holes in them for the uprights' pins: I
                      > can have as much as 160 degrees of swivel and not twist the ridge pole
                      > while I am lifting the uprights into place.
                      > If your interested in the plans, contact me off list and I will send
                      > you drawings of how they are built.
                      >
                      > Tw twmoran@...
                      >
                      > Dave wrote:
                      > > I just had a center pole snap in half on our small "marquee" (really
                      > > a diamond/pyramid fly). What would be the best recommendation for a
                      > > 10 foot center pole for such a use, wood type and dimensions? I have
                      > > heard everything from sawn lumber like oak to cut maple saplings to
                      > > laminated poles. I got a twisty pine branch that is long enough but
                      > > heavy as hell (still green and sappy).
                      > >
                      > > Dave H 3NH
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      >







                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    • ByTheProlong@aol.com
                      It all depends on what they are going to support. No snow load? Will the rain fall off? Wind is a function of the ropes. All you need to do is hold up the
                      Message 10 of 10 , Jun 28, 2009
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                        It all depends on what they are going to support. No snow load? Will the
                        rain fall off? Wind is a function of the ropes. All you need to do is hold
                        up the fabric.

                        Ed Magiera


                        In a message dated 6/2/2009 11:19:20 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
                        Sgt42RHR@... writes:

                        Dave, no need to go over the top here. We have very big marquee
                        supported
                        by two center poles. Each is 2" octagonal oak. They are many years old
                        and are solid as can be. Simple and easy--and strong.





                        **************Make your summer sizzle with fast and easy recipes for the
                        grill. (http://food.aol.com/grilling?ncid=emlcntusfood00000005)


                        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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