Beginning to Program the csm84
- OK, I now have the machines in place with power and air. I had a
slight problem as to hooking up power on 1 machine. It seems the
machine was configured to run on 110v. During power up the monitors
would pop a circuit breaker on the machine. To make a long story
short the crt's were replacements and drew to much power for the 110v
configuration and must have a separate power source for the machine.
Also while I am on this here is the question for the day (and I know
What is the key for inside of the lower right access panel ?
It is in there to place the machine in a maintenance mode.
The switch is unlabeled and in maint. position the machine will run
around 10% of normal speed.
I am looking for some abbreviated guidelines on how best to start
programming a new pcb in our machine. I have been pouring over the
manuals and wish there was a quick start page (probably too much to
- weboss57 wrote:
> OK, I now have the machines in place with power and air. I had aMine was, too. It blinked the lights when it moved. I changed
> slight problem as to hooking up power on 1 machine. It seems the
> machine was configured to run on 110v.
the transformer taps to the 240 V setting, it works much better.
During power up the monitors
> would pop a circuit breaker on the machine. To make a long storyMy monitors were made by Philips (only real Philips part on the
> short the crt's were replacements and drew to much power for the 110v
> configuration and must have a separate power source for the machine.
> Also while I am on this here is the question for the day (and I knowIt allows you to run the machine (slowly) with the covers open.
> this answer)
> What is the key for inside of the lower right access panel ?
YOu only get 10 or 20% of full speed in this mode, homing the
axes takes forever.
> It is in there to place the machine in a maintenance mode.Yes, exactly. But, if you need to have your head and arms in
> The switch is unlabeled and in maint. position the machine will run
> around 10% of normal speed.
there while doing things, like watching how it picks up a part
to see why it is occasionally dropping one, this is the safe way
to do it. It will never move fast enough you can't get out of
the way. I've been poking around in there and had it hit my
hand a couple times while at 100% speed. You do NOT want to get
any part of your body between the gantry and the housing, it
really has mass X velocity!
> I am looking for some abbreviated guidelines on how best to startAssuming single PCB, you probably want to have a pair of
> programming a new pcb in our machine. I have been pouring over the
> manuals and wish there was a quick start page (probably too much to
> hope for).
fiducials. I use two through holes at opposite corners of the
board. You have to set the logic to "off" to use a hole as a
fiducial. You need to know the real coordinate of the right
hand front corner, where the main stop is. I have my CAD system
set the board origin to the lower left corner of the board edge.
For back side of board, I feed the board in so that corner
goes against the main stop. I mirror all X coords from the
board, so a part at (5,10) will be changed in the mount list to
(-5,10), which is where it will be relative from the main stop.
Now, I get the CAD location of the holes I have selected for
fiducials, mirror the X again, and enter these in the mount data
entry. Note fiducials must be entered with the one closest to
the machine home pos first.
I use a program (on this group's files section) to convert my
CAD system's data to the mount part of the machine's placement
file. This program was written to take data from Protel's pick
and place data, but most modern CAD systems produce a pretty
similar file. I also have to prepare a component file that has
lines with component descriptions that match the component
descr. in the P&P file, and then gives feeder #, head # and part
orientation as it is in the tape.
For the back side, the board origin is the same as the main
stop. For the front side, the origin's X is the main stop's
coord minus the board's X dimension. The Y is always the same.
There's a bunch of tricks related to the component file, too.
Certain feeders are beyond the reach of certain heads.
If you have vision, then there are a WHOLE bunch of other things
that you need to set up, I don't know anything about that, as my
machine doesn't have V or Z.
I can answer more questions as you get there. I did one board
completely manually, and don't recommend it. use the CAD data.
it all works MUCH better.
- --- In PicknPlace@yahoogroups.com, Jon Elson <elson@...> wrote:
>That means your machine is a PA1306/20 or earlier, the machines after
> weboss57 wrote:
> > OK, I now have the machines in place with power and air. I had a
> > slight problem as to hooking up power on 1 machine. It seems the
> > machine was configured to run on 110v.
that model start with the PA1306/40, and have digital servo drives,
brushless motors and 200 V is the lowest voltage it will run on.
These later machines have the III after the model number, as in CSM84
Either way, a significant part of the machine runs on 200 V (Japanese
> > I am looking for some abbreviated guidelines on how best to startI'm guessing you have manuals specific for your machine.
> > programming a new pcb in our machine. I have been pouring over the
> > manuals and wish there was a quick start page (probably too much to
> > hope for).
I got the wrong manuals twice, so I have a set newer, and a set older
than my machine. I think Philips realized sometime after the 1304
series came out that the English manuals were typical
double-translated monstrocities (Japanese -> Dutch -> English) and
were inscrutable to anyone. Even the pictures were degraded.
If you can get a manual for a 1306/40 there are a number of
improvements. (Unfortunately, there are also some small software
changes that make the descriptions of some of the screens wrong.)
I'm guessing the old manuals suffered from a culture problem, too,
like the Japanese think it is disrespectful to "tell" somebody how to
do something like "press button one, wait for green light, press
button two." So, they have to describe what the buttons and lights
mean, and then you have to figure out what order to press them in.
The later manuals, presumably written once the Philips people actually
understood the machine themselves, is much better in that regard, and
has kind of a narrative section where they go through the setup and
programming in an ordered fashion. It is still fairly vague, because
the way you set up for a board depends on SO MANY variables related to
the board itself. If you have multiple panelized boards, then you
have panel or "block" fiducials, individual board fiducials, and maybe
component fiducials, too. Also, you can have "bad marks" to tell the
machine that particular individual boards should not be stuffed. You
can have tape feeders, tube feeders, waffle trays and chips fed in
from a large component sequencer. You can have glue and solder paste
dispensers, vision, automatic nozzle exchange, Z-axis motors and on
and on. And, you can use alignment pins and a variety of push-in
devices to clamp the board. All of this stuff is programmable, too!
I have the very basic machine, no vision, just the beam sensor and a
mechanical alignment station, and 3 heads. I have made a couple
nozzles to suit my particular mix. I also have a Contact Inc.
vibratory feeder with 8 SOIC lanes. I have machined a couple add-on
lanes that bolt to the side of the 8-lane top to handle some other
sized parts like SSOP.
I really need to write up a step by step setup guide, even for my own
use, as I will forget some of the stuff I have figured out. One
reason I have held off a bit on that is I have this feeling I am doing
some of this the hard way, and missing some of the built-in functions
of the software that are designed exactly for that purpose. I never
was trained on the thing, I just had to learn it by myself. There
were a number of alignment setting on the machine that clearly seem to
have been wrong, but I don't know if I have them really right yet.