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Re: camera spinner mk3

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  • Roger Berry
    Has anyone looked at the different battery operated barbeque rotisserie? This may be to slow but there s a lot of modules out there.
    Message 1 of 23 , Feb 28, 2007
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      Has anyone looked at the different battery operated barbeque rotisserie?
      This may be to slow but there's a lot of modules out there.
      http://www.sonofhibachionline.com/accessories.php

      Roger Berry
    • Carel
      I found two very well made gearhead motors with a center shaft at the Robot Store: http://tinyurl.com/2guvt8 188:1 ratio http://tinyurl.com/ytuqo6 90:1
      Message 2 of 23 , Apr 4, 2007
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        I found two very well made gearhead motors with a center shaft at the Robot
        Store:
        http://tinyurl.com/2guvt8 188:1 ratio
        http://tinyurl.com/ytuqo6 90:1 ratio
        Their voltage range is 4.5v-24v, which is great for batteries and PWM speed
        controlling circuits.

        At the moment I am experimenting with the one that has a 90:1 ratio, which
        comes close to Peter Murphy's 100:1 motor. The motor seems to have no
        problem turning the 5D/10.5mm around, but I have to come up with a a way to
        take the downward and sideways stresses that are caused by the camera, off
        the motor's tiny (but high grade steel) spindle. Michel Thoby's solution of
        using a cheap electric screwdriver would take care of that, as the shaft is
        already built to take some abuse, but I cannot find any screwdriver that
        turns slow enough. The one I bought and disassembled still turns way too
        fast at 1volt, which is less than can be provided by one battery. I also
        prefer the superior quality of the Robot-store motors.

        I am curious how Peter Murphy and other gearheads have dealt with the
        "spindle-stress".

        Carel Struycken



        --
        View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/camera-spinner-mk3-tf2100739.html#a9848598
        Sent from the PanoToolsNG mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
      • Jim Watters
        ... Instead of putting the camera on the no-parallax-point put it on the center of gravity. If the center of gravity is too far from the npp then you could
        Message 3 of 23 , Apr 4, 2007
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          Carel wrote:
          > I have to come up with a a way to take the downward and sideways
          > stresses that are caused by the camera, off the motor's tiny (but
          > high grade steel) spindle.
          >
          > I am curious how Peter Murphy and other gearheads have dealt with the
          > "spindle-stress".
          >
          > Carel Struycken
          >
          Instead of putting the camera on the no-parallax-point put it on the
          center of gravity. If the center of gravity is too far from the npp
          then you could try counter balancing the camera as long as it does not
          interfere with the view from the lens. When the camera is up a 5m pole
          the nearest object is likely at least 5m away. Parallax error will not
          be a big issue. Eliminating Camera shake or pole wabbel

          I salvaged a bunch of motors and gears from equipment that my work was
          sending away to be recycled. I am going to try putting a gear on the
          axis and the motor off center.

          --
          Jim Watters

          Yahoo ID: j1vvy ymsgr:sendIM?j1vvy
          jwatters @ photocreations . ca
          http://photocreations.ca
        • panovrx
          ... the Robot ... PWM speed ... They look like nice motors .. and cheap too. The similar one I bought and have been assembling had that spindle stress issue
          Message 4 of 23 , Apr 6, 2007
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            --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, Carel <cs@...> wrote:
            >
            >
            > I found two very well made gearhead motors with a center shaft at
            the Robot
            > Store:
            > http://tinyurl.com/2guvt8 188:1 ratio
            > http://tinyurl.com/ytuqo6 90:1 ratio
            > Their voltage range is 4.5v-24v, which is great for batteries and
            PWM speed
            > controlling circuits.

            They look like nice motors .. and cheap too. The similar one I bought
            and have been assembling had that spindle stress issue too -- more
            like bearing stress. I fixed a collar around the shaft where it came
            out of the motor to support it some but it was still not enough with
            a 5D. Like you say, it needs some engineering to take the stress off
            the motor .. bearings in a cylinder, with some sort of shaft to
            transmit the torque from the motor ... that sort of thing.

            So I went back to my original more heavy duty motor, which has a
            slightly larger nadir profile, not being epicyclic.

            At 1 rev in 2 sec the wobble of a non-centre of gravity setup is not
            too bad (if the spindle stress issue is not wrecking the motor). At 1
            rev in 1 sec it is a major issue. Since I have been using the former
            speed lately for action sequences (= 6 shots at 3fps)
            it is not a problem really. It is very handy to have the lower
            parallax results -- often I use a monopod+motorized had at eyelevel
            where a centre of gravity approach would mean too much parallax

            Peter
          • panovrx
            ... often I use a monopod+motorized system at eyelevel ... like this one from today http://www.mediavr.com/jesus.htm this is actually a little below eye level
            Message 5 of 23 , Apr 6, 2007
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              --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "panovrx" <mediavr@...> wrote:
              >
              often I use a monopod+motorized system at eyelevel
              > where a centre of gravity approach would mean too much parallax

              like this one from today
              http://www.mediavr.com/jesus.htm

              this is actually a little below eye level -- I am crouching at the base
              of the pole (an adapted Rode boom pole), wrapped around it
              .. it was quite poor light with hectic action
              1/2000th f4 7shots 10.5mm/5D 2seconds rotation

              Peter
            • Carel Struycken
              .....snip Like you say, it needs some engineering to take the stress off the motor .. bearings in a cylinder, with some sort of shaft
              Message 6 of 23 , Apr 6, 2007
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                <quote author='panovrx'>
                .....snip
                Like you say, it needs some engineering to take the stress off
                the motor .. bearings in a cylinder, with some sort of shaft to
                transmit the torque from the motor ... that sort of thing.
                .....snip

                Peter

                </quote>

                Hi Peter,

                That is encouraging feedback. I did not know if I was being overly
                cautious, but it just did not feel right having the 5D pull on that
                spindle, even with the bearing I had added to take off some of the
                downward pressure. I think (at least on paper) I have the solution.
                There will be a 3/8" rod, with a thread at the top half to standardize
                whatever gets screwed in there. The unthreaded half will for the most
                part be inside a bronze sleave bearing, which will relieve the stress
                on the spindle of the sideways pulling of the camera. Then there will
                be a "thrust" bearing sitting on top of the bushing, which will take
                the weight of the camera off the spindle and transfer it to the
                housing in which the bushing is seated.
                A thrust bearing is the kind of bearing they use on a "lazy susan", in
                this instance a miniature one.
                A *very* rough sketch is here: www.sphericalpanoramas.com/motor.html
                I have a heavy duty bench drill, but I could not get an accurately
                enough centered hole in the rod for the spindle. I think it needs to
                be done with a mill. This will now all have to wait for a month, when
                I come back from the trip to Europe.

                Carel
              • dalileis
                Hi, Peter! The gadget certainly looks nice. But in the pano http://www.mediavr.com/citytosurf2006.htm there is a lot of banding in the sky. I experience
                Message 7 of 23 , Apr 6, 2007
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                  Hi, Peter!

                  The gadget certainly looks nice. But in the pano
                  http://www.mediavr.com/citytosurf2006.htm there is a lot of banding in
                  the sky. I experience similar problems sometimes with D70 + Sigma 8mm,
                  but I reckon this is easily avoidable with 5D and 10.5? Or am I
                  missing some fact here? Otherwise lovely looking pano, especially
                  under the conditions. By the way, I remember learning VR from your
                  articles, thanks for those.

                  On the side note...

                  Who woulda ever thought Jook was in such a terrific shape? Must have
                  trained for this like there's no tomorrow.

                  ;)


                  --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "panovrx" <mediavr@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > Here is another configuration of my camera spinner gadget
                  > http://www.mediavr.com/cameraspinner3.jpg
                  >
                  > this has the advantage over previous versions of having a smaller nadir
                  > visual profile -- also looks less visually conspicuous
                  >
                  > inside the tube are 3AA batteries and a 9V battery and relay for the
                  > Zap-shot radio release --- which plugs in at the bottom. Or I can plug
                  > in a mechanical switch. By pulling out the top I can change batteries
                  > quickly
                  >
                  > This is shot with the camera in a no-parallax position. Which means it
                  > is off-centre in terms of centre of gravity. So it wobbles a bit as it
                  > spins. But I have decided that is not so bad as having parallax issues -
                  > I just need to build up my camera-holding muscles some :-)
                  >
                  > Here is a pano I did with it yesterday -- 10.5mm on 5D -- 4 shots mainly
                  > http://www.mediavr.com/citytosurf2006.htm at 3fps
                  > 2500th of a second at f4 approx at 320ASA
                  > these direct sun/crowd shots need careful shadow watching -- so that
                  > you arent yourself shadowing some unretouchable area or standing on
                  > someone's shadow
                  >
                  > Peter Murphy
                  > http://www.mediavr.com/blog
                  >
                • John Houghton
                  ... The banding has nothing to do with the camera and lens. It s a workflow problem. The banding can easily arise when using image adjustment tools such as
                  Message 8 of 23 , Apr 6, 2007
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                    --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "dalileis" <qtvrbiro@...> wrote:
                    >
                    > there is a lot of banding in the sky. I experience similar problems
                    > sometimes with D70 + Sigma 8mm, but I reckon this is easily
                    > avoidable with 5D and 10.5? Or am I missing some fact here?

                    The banding has nothing to do with the camera and lens. It's a
                    workflow problem. The banding can easily arise when using image
                    adjustment tools such as levels or curves in 8 bit mode or by applying
                    too much jpeg compression.

                    John
                  • dalileis
                    I was also thinking along the lines of resolution being a factor. For example, if you compress the pano with the resolution of 10000 x 5000 px to jpeg, quality
                    Message 9 of 23 , Apr 7, 2007
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                      I was also thinking along the lines of resolution being a factor. For
                      example, if you compress the pano with the resolution of 10000 x 5000
                      px to jpeg, quality 60 % or so, and apply the same jpeg compression to
                      the pano with the resolution of 6000 x 3000 px, the pano that had the
                      higher (true, sensor dependent, not Photoshoped, artificial, with made
                      up pixels) resolution from the start may avoid banding, while the
                      other lower-res one may not.

                      Is this so?

                      Since I know that the combo 5D + 10.5 does not offer specially
                      high-res output (when compared with D200 + 10.5 for exemple) I was
                      wondering if it the banding had to do with this or was mainly the
                      question of workflow preferences, thus easily avoidable. It probably
                      is completely avoidable, 5D + 10.5 is a superb combo, so no worries
                      there, I don't think. Would have liked if there were some more pixels
                      per inch from these two, however.

                      Dalileis

                      --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "John Houghton" <j.houghton@...>
                      wrote:
                      >
                      > --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "dalileis" <qtvrbiro@> wrote:
                      > >
                      > > there is a lot of banding in the sky. I experience similar problems
                      > > sometimes with D70 + Sigma 8mm, but I reckon this is easily
                      > > avoidable with 5D and 10.5? Or am I missing some fact here?
                      >
                      > The banding has nothing to do with the camera and lens. It's a
                      > workflow problem. The banding can easily arise when using image
                      > adjustment tools such as levels or curves in 8 bit mode or by applying
                      > too much jpeg compression.
                      >
                      > John
                      >
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