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Re: the smc PENTAX DA 35mm F2.8 Macro Limited lens

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  • Peter
    Hi Roger, This is quoted from the B&H websirte: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/indepth/photography/tips-solutions/tools-and-techniques-panoramic-photography
    Message 1 of 5 , Mar 3, 2012
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      Hi Roger,

      This is quoted from the B&H websirte:

      http://www.bhphotovideo.com/indepth/photography/tips-solutions/tools-and-techniques-panoramic-photography

      Contrary to what one would assume when talking about lens choices for shooting panoramic images, wide-angle lenses are not necessarily the best choice when it comes to stitching individual images together. The reason is that in the process of maintaining proper perspective and blending overlapping sections of adjacent images, the corners of each frame have to be cropped slightly, and the wider the lens, the more you have to crop, resulting in smaller, lower resolution image files.

      So, while in theory you need fewer wider-angle pictures to create a panoramic photograph, if you shoot with a lens closer to whatever is considered "normal" based on the camera format you're using (i.e. 50mm for a full-frame 35, and 35mm for an APS-C-format camera), you'll end up with a sharper, better-detailed panoramic photograph.

      ----

      I already own a fisheye lens that I use for making virtual reality immersive equitanular photos. But what about linear panoramics?

      My question is, should I be looking at the ultra sharp 35 mm or the a wider lens, such as the 15 mm? Or the 14mm lens you recommend?

      --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, Roger D Williams <roger@...> wrote:
      >
      > I am a proud and happy Pentax owner. But I question whether a 35mm lens, even one as good as the DA f/2.8 Macro, will be suitable for panoramas. Are you aiming to shoot panoramas with very large pixel dimensions and you don't mind doing a lot of stitching? If so, you are probably OK with this lens. If you can afford to dedicate one lens to panorama taking and you (like me) want to do as little stitching as possible, then a fisheye would be better. The Pentax zoom fisheye is a great lens, optically identical with the Tokina zoom pano and very moderately priced. I have it and love it. But if you want a rectilinear lens that can be used for both normal non-pano photography and panoramas, and has relatively modest requirements in terms of the number of shots required, there is a great bargain to be had in the Samyang 14mm lens. This is a super lens and there is a Pentax version.
      >
      > Your mention of edge sharpness gave a hint that your main usage might not be panoramas, where the definition at the edges is far less important because of the overlap that "throws away" the outermost parts of the image anyway. But excuse the error if I have taken the hint the wrong way.
      >
      > Roger W.
      >
      >
      > Sent from my iPad
      >
      > On Mar 3, 2012, at 4:31 AM, "Peter A. Schaible" <peter@...> wrote:
      >
      > > I know there are a few other Pentaxians in this group; will you please
      > > raise your hands?!
      > >
      > > Ifm looking to buy a fixed length lens to use, primarily, for shooting
      > > panos that I will stitch with PTgui. My camera is the Pentax K7 and I am
      > > very happy with it.
      > >
      > > The PENTAX DA 35mm F2.8 Macro Limited seems like a good choice. Itfs
      > > reputed to be very sharp, including around the edges, and has other good
      > > features.
      > >
      > > Do you have any experience with this lens? Would you recommend
      > > something different? A 50mm lens, perhaps?
      > >
      > > This will be a very big ticket purchase for me and I donft want to make
      > > a mistake.
      > >
      > > Thanks in advance for sharing your wisdom.
      > >
      > > Best,
      > >
      > > --
      > > --Peter
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > ------------------------------------
      > >
      > > --
      > >
      > >
      > >
      >
    • Roger D Williams
      There s a lot of information about many different kinds of panoramas in that article. If your interest is mainly rectilinear images in a 16:9 or higher aspect
      Message 2 of 5 , Mar 3, 2012
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        There's a lot of information about many different kinds of panoramas in that article. If your interest is mainly rectilinear images in a 16:9 or higher aspect ratio, then a 35mm lens will be fine, although my own choice would be a 28mm in portrait orientation. But you pretty soon need to adopt a cylindrical projection to avoid over-stretched corners, i.e., exaggerated perspectives. But the trade-off is curved horizontals. <sigh>

        I was writing from the point of view of virtual reality panoramas where you can pan and zoom over the whole 360 x 180 degrees. For that, I stand by what I wrote, although your own interests differ, as I suspected might be the case. No sweat.

        Personally I think you would love the 14mm lens, especially if cost is a concern. There is a very comprehensive test report by Michel T. if you want to check it out. I don't have the URL or I would give it. But then I love wide-angle lenses, always have done, the wider the better. A good 28mm lens taking two side-by-side shots with enough overlap for a good stitch produces fine wide-angle images, but I prefer to minimize stitching, so I tend to prefer wider lenses. For several years I used a fisheye and "De-fished" the images to get the wide-angle coverage I wanted. So you can see where I'm coming from. Most of my non-immersive shots these days are taken on the excellent Pentax 12-24mm zoom. Not, alas, one of their cheaper lenses but a splendid performer.

        Roger W.

        Sent from my iPad

        On Mar 4, 2012, at 11:26 AM, "Peter" <peter@...> wrote:

        > Hi Roger,
        >
        > This is quoted from the B&H websirte:
        >
        > http://www.bhphotovideo.com/indepth/photography/tips-solutions/tools-and-techniques-panoramic-photography
        >
        > Contrary to what one would assume when talking about lens choices for shooting panoramic images, wide-angle lenses are not necessarily the best choice when it comes to stitching individual images together. The reason is that in the process of maintaining proper perspective and blending overlapping sections of adjacent images, the corners of each frame have to be cropped slightly, and the wider the lens, the more you have to crop, resulting in smaller, lower resolution image files.
        >
        > So, while in theory you need fewer wider-angle pictures to create a panoramic photograph, if you shoot with a lens closer to whatever is considered "normal" based on the camera format you're using (i.e. 50mm for a full-frame 35, and 35mm for an APS-C-format camera), you'll end up with a sharper, better-detailed panoramic photograph.
        >
        > ----
        >
        > I already own a fisheye lens that I use for making virtual reality immersive equitanular photos. But what about linear panoramics?
        >
        > My question is, should I be looking at the ultra sharp 35 mm or the a wider lens, such as the 15 mm? Or the 14mm lens you recommend?
        >
        > --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, Roger D Williams <roger@...> wrote:
        >>
        >> I am a proud and happy Pentax owner. But I question whether a 35mm lens, even one as good as the DA f/2.8 Macro, will be suitable for panoramas. Are you aiming to shoot panoramas with very large pixel dimensions and you don't mind doing a lot of stitching? If so, you are probably OK with this lens. If you can afford to dedicate one lens to panorama taking and you (like me) want to do as little stitching as possible, then a fisheye would be better. The Pentax zoom fisheye is a great lens, optically identical with the Tokina zoom pano and very moderately priced. I have it and love it. But if you want a rectilinear lens that can be used for both normal non-pano photography and panoramas, and has relatively modest requirements in terms of the number of shots required, there is a great bargain to be had in the Samyang 14mm lens. This is a super lens and there is a Pentax version.
        >>
        >> Your mention of edge sharpness gave a hint that your main usage might not be panoramas, where the definition at the edges is far less important because of the overlap that "throws away" the outermost parts of the image anyway. But excuse the error if I have taken the hint the wrong way.
        >>
        >> Roger W.
        >>
        >>
        >> Sent from my iPad
        >>
        >> On Mar 3, 2012, at 4:31 AM, "Peter A. Schaible" <peter@...> wrote:
        >>
        >>> I know there are a few other Pentaxians in this group; will you please
        >>> raise your hands?!
        >>>
        >>> Ifm looking to buy a fixed length lens to use, primarily, for shooting
        >>> panos that I will stitch with PTgui. My camera is the Pentax K7 and I am
        >>> very happy with it.
        >>>
        >>> The PENTAX DA 35mm F2.8 Macro Limited seems like a good choice. Itfs
        >>> reputed to be very sharp, including around the edges, and has other good
        >>> features.
        >>>
        >>> Do you have any experience with this lens? Would you recommend
        >>> something different? A 50mm lens, perhaps?
        >>>
        >>> This will be a very big ticket purchase for me and I donft want to make
        >>> a mistake.
        >>>
        >>> Thanks in advance for sharing your wisdom.
        >>>
        >>> Best,
        >>>
        >>> --
        >>> --Peter
        >>>
        >>>
        >>>
        >>>
        >>> ------------------------------------
        >>>
        >>> --
        >>>
        >>>
        >>>
        >>
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > ------------------------------------
        >
        > --
        >
        >
        >
      • Erik Krause
        ... It is true you need overlap which effectively makes the used part of any image smaller, but it is not true that wide angle images will be cropped. If your
        Message 3 of 5 , Mar 4, 2012
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          Am 04.03.2012 03:26, schrieb Peter:
          > Contrary to what one would assume when talking about lens choices for
          > shooting panoramic images, wide-angle lenses are not necessarily the
          > best choice when it comes to stitching individual images together.
          > The reason is that in the process of maintaining proper perspective
          > and blending overlapping sections of adjacent images, the corners of
          > each frame have to be cropped slightly,

          It is true you need overlap which effectively makes the used part of any
          image smaller, but it is not true that wide angle images will be
          cropped. If your overlap is 25% you lose this amount of pixels for
          overlap no matter how long your lens is.

          Perspective distortion isn't an issue. Panorama stitchers remap the
          images such that you can use the complete image. It could be they talk
          about using rectilinear images for cylindrical projection output. In
          this case any image gets bulged on the upper and lower edge, which
          doesn't allow the use of the full height. That's the reason why it's
          better to shoot in portrait orientation, where the bulging is less due
          to the shorter side.

          > So, while in theory you need fewer wider-angle pictures to create a
          > panoramic photograph, if you shoot with a lens closer to whatever is
          > considered "normal" based on the camera format you're using (i.e.
          > 50mm for a full-frame 35, and 35mm for an APS-C-format camera),
          > you'll end up with a sharper, better-detailed panoramic photograph.

          You get higher resolution with a longer lens, that's true. The reason
          they give is somehow misleading. It's far easier: with longer lenses you
          get more pixels per degree, roughly the double amount if the focal
          length doubles. The mention of the "normal" focal length is nonsense.

          The question is the use you intend for your panoramas. If you are in
          large scale prints you better use a longer lens and many shots in order
          to get enough resolution. If you shoot for web presentation a wide angle
          or a fisheye lens will do. If you shoot distant landscape scenes you can
          easily deal with lots of images but if you shoot crowded places or
          landscape with nearby plants you will have a lot of trouble due to
          people or leaves moving between adjacent shots.

          --
          Erik Krause
          http://www.erik-krause.de
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