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Re: Another attempt on 3D

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  • Wim Koornneef
    ... I made a typo, I meant zero parallax point instead of zero stereo point . Wim -- View this message in context:
    Message 1 of 11 , Jan 3, 2011
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      Wim Koornneef wrote:
      > ....perhaps you can move the zero stereo point a bit forward from the
      > trunk to halfway the branches to reduce this a bit....

      I made a typo, I meant "zero parallax point" instead of "zero stereo point".
      Wim
      --
      View this message in context: http://panotoolsng.586017.n4.nabble.com/Another-attempt-on-3D-tp3170210p3171673.html
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    • jrgen_schrader
      Thanks for your suggestion, Wim. I had expected this violation because I knew that some objects would be too close to the camera to get near and far adjusted
      Message 2 of 11 , Jan 4, 2011
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        Thanks for your suggestion, Wim.
        I had expected this violation because I knew that some objects would be too close to the camera to get near and far adjusted perfectly.
        So I tried to find a compromise where the silhouettes are not too obvious.
        By moving the stereo point do you mean I should try what you called smart masks in your tutorial?

        I used the Tokina 10-7 at 12mm and 30 images. The Npp offset was about 3 cm, I can't tell exactly because I don't have a mark for that on my panoramic head since for regular panoramas I only use it with a ring.

        Best
        Jürgen

        --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, Wim Koornneef <wim.koornneef@...> wrote:
        >
        >
        > Hello Jürgen,
        >
        > For sure that is a nice 3D pano of a beautiful scene.
        > I can't see a split trunk, perhaps it is only clearly visible on certain
        > monitors.
        >
        > A suggestion, I see some stereo window violation on the branches ( the ones
        > with a lot of snow hanging over the walking path in the opening view)
        > causing stress when viewing for some time, perhaps you can move the zero
        > stereo point a bit forward from the trunk to halfway the branches to reduce
        > this a bit.
        >
        > The flipping colors that Erik is mentioning is something that I am familiar
        > with, it occurs whenever the background is more or less equal of color and
        > is of no importance.
        > Here is a 100% (or more) crop of one of my 3D panos where this flipping is
        > very extreme: http://www.dmmdh.nl/forum_images/mirorring_red_cyan_colors.jpg
        >
        > I guess you shot this with a single cam, can you share the specs, forward
        > out of NPP shift, number of images and any other thing worth mentioning ?
        >
        > Keep on posting as I like to see more of those nice 3D panos.
        >
        > Best,
        > Wim
        > --
        > View this message in context: http://panotoolsng.586017.n4.nabble.com/Another-attempt-on-3D-tp3170210p3171665.html
        > Sent from the PanoToolsNG mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
        >
      • Wim Koornneef
        ... Hello Jürgen, No, I don t mean using a smart mask (although that could possible help to avoid some eye stress in zenith), what I mean is that you shift
        Message 3 of 11 , Jan 4, 2011
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          jrgen_schrader wrote:
          > ....By moving the stereo point do you mean I should try what you called
          > smart masks in your tutorial?...

          Hello Jürgen,

          No, I don't mean using a smart mask (although that could possible help to
          avoid some eye stress in zenith), what I mean is that you shift the left and
          right images in StereoPhoto Maker in such a way that the zero parallax point
          is set close to the end of the branches and not in the trunk as it is now.

          It is easiest to set the zero parallax point without using a red/cyan
          viewer, first you pick a zero parallax point and then you shift the images
          until you see no color fringes at the chosen point.
          For this is best to view the anaglyph at 100%. The width and distance of the
          color fringes will increase from zero at the chosen point to a maximum at
          objects in the back of the scene.

          If you want to reduce the eye stress in zenith as much as possible without
          using a smart mask then it is best to set the zero parallax point at the end
          of the branches and not somewhere between the end and the trunk.
          If you set the zero parallax point at the end of the branches then you miss
          the "popping out of the screen" 3D effect of the branches but it could be
          very well that this will improve the overall quality in such a way that it
          is a good trade off.
          You have to try it out and see what works best.

          BTW, I think you have chosen the right number of images and the proper NPP
          forward shift, the 3D depth is really good and both me and Margriet like
          your forest pano a lot.

          Wim
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