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Re: Advanced stitching help needed

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  • Andrew
    Phil, Is there any chance (if you have the time) to explain how you went about taking the pictures for your bridge shot. It s pretty impressive ;-) Do you use
    Message 1 of 10 , Oct 31, 2010
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      Phil,

      Is there any chance (if you have the time) to explain how you went about taking the pictures for your bridge shot. It's pretty impressive ;-)

      Do you use one of those painters poles or something similar with a panohead attached to the end?

      I can't visualize how you would take the pictures e.g camera angle on the pole/head, especially the one that captures yourself in the shot. I read Rogers pointers on pole support.

      I have a canon 5d MK II, nikkor 10.5mm and Nodal Ninja 5 but that's not going on a pole so I would have to use my old Nikon D80, 10.5mm on a NN3.

      Thanks,

      Andrew




      --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <philip@...> wrote:
      >
      > John,
      >
      > Thanks for your help. I'll look at your pts file to and restitch it again to see if I can match your result.
      >
      > I just started using the Sigma 8mm lens and forgot about removing the CA. I do shoot in RAW and have removed the CA this morning on the images and saved the removal settings as a preset for the lens.
      >
      > I thought this would have been the tougher one to stitch from yesterday but it was easy. http://360photopro.com/media/360-bridge-view/
      >
      > Phil
      >
      >
      > --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "John Houghton" <j.houghton@> wrote:
      > >
      > > Phil, I didn't find too many problems stitching the images. I would have preferred to have used known lens parameters, but I let PTGui do its best, using control points on the most distant features where possible. I optimized the nadir into position in PTGui, but edited it in manually, using the warp tool in Photoshop. I used Smartblend for the lower half and PTGui's own blender for the sky. You really should shoot raw and remove the chromatic aberration in ACR.
      > >
      > > I put my project file and a 6000x3000 jpeg at:
      > >
      > > http://www.johnhpanos.com/test-1-jh.zip
      > >
      > > John
      > >
      > > --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <philip@> wrote:
      > > >
      > > > Master Stitchers,
      > > >
      > > > I need help learning the advanced fine tuning methods in PTGui Pro Version 9.0beta4. I shot the images from a horizontal monopod so it's a little more difficult than stitching images shot from a tripod.
      > > >
      > > > Download the zipped files from http://360photopro.com/test-1jpg.zip. (12mb)
      > > >
      > > > Thanks,
      > > > Phil
      > > >
      > >
      >
    • onezebra1
      What I use to do on shots like that when I was using a Canon 10D and then the 20D with a Sigma 8mm lens. Tilt the camera pointing down the pole a little, this
      Message 2 of 10 , Oct 31, 2010
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        What I use to do on shots like that when I was using a Canon 10D and then the 20D with a Sigma 8mm lens.
        Tilt the camera pointing down the pole a little, this takes care of the nadir but leaves a hole in the zenith which is usually the sky or something far away and easy to fix.
        With the camera in hand take the zenith shot if needed, use Photoshop to patch the small zenith hole.

        Roger Berry


        --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew" <conanthedestroya222@...> wrote:
        >
        >
        >
        > Phil,
        >
        > Is there any chance (if you have the time) to explain how you went about taking the pictures for your bridge shot. It's pretty impressive ;-)
        >
        > Do you use one of those painters poles or something similar with a panohead attached to the end?
        >
        > I can't visualize how you would take the pictures e.g camera angle on the pole/head, especially the one that captures yourself in the shot. I read Rogers pointers on pole support.
        >
        > I have a canon 5d MK II, nikkor 10.5mm and Nodal Ninja 5 but that's not going on a pole so I would have to use my old Nikon D80, 10.5mm on a NN3.
        >
        > Thanks,
        >
        > Andrew
      • Phil
        Andrew, Roger beat me to the reply. Shot from an inverted monopod using a home made L bracket much like Roger s. A Nodal Ninja R1 would work well with your
        Message 3 of 10 , Oct 31, 2010
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          Andrew,

          Roger beat me to the reply. Shot from an inverted monopod using a home made L bracket much like Roger's. A Nodal Ninja R1 would work well with your camera & lens.

          Because I had a very small nadir I only needed 4 shots with the Sigma 8mm on a Canon 30D. The pole was aimed at the sky that is easy to patch while holding on to it with one hand. Switch hands and shoot again.

          Using the 10.5mm lens you'll need to shoot with the 5D.

          Phil


          --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew" <conanthedestroya222@...> wrote:
          >
          >
          >
          > Phil,
          >
          > Is there any chance (if you have the time) to explain how you went about taking the pictures for your bridge shot. It's pretty impressive ;-)
          >
          > Do you use one of those painters poles or something similar with a panohead attached to the end?
          >
          > I can't visualize how you would take the pictures e.g camera angle on the pole/head, especially the one that captures yourself in the shot. I read Rogers pointers on pole support.
          >
          > I have a canon 5d MK II, nikkor 10.5mm and Nodal Ninja 5 but that's not going on a pole so I would have to use my old Nikon D80, 10.5mm on a NN3.
          >
          > Thanks,
          >
          > Andrew
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