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Advanced stitching help needed

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  • Phil
    Master Stitchers, I need help learning the advanced fine tuning methods in PTGui Pro Version 9.0beta4. I shot the images from a horizontal monopod so it s a
    Message 1 of 10 , Oct 29, 2010
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      Master Stitchers,

      I need help learning the advanced fine tuning methods in PTGui Pro Version 9.0beta4. I shot the images from a horizontal monopod so it's a little more difficult than stitching images shot from a tripod.

      Download the zipped files from http://360photopro.com/test-1jpg.zip. (12mb)

      Thanks,
      Phil
    • onezebra1
      It can be done but there are a number of problems along with a few other things you need to do. It s after midnight and I need to get some sleep, I will post
      Message 2 of 10 , Oct 30, 2010
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        It can be done but there are a number of problems along with a few other things you need to do.
        It's after midnight and I need to get some sleep, I will post more about it tomorrow.
        Here's an example of how it turned out.
        http://www.indiavrtours.com/vrphotos/test_pano.html

        Roger Berry


        --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <philip@...> wrote:
        >
        > Master Stitchers,
        >
        > I need help learning the advanced fine tuning methods in PTGui Pro Version 9.0beta4. I shot the images from a horizontal monopod so it's a little more difficult than stitching images shot from a tripod.
        >
        > Download the zipped files from http://360photopro.com/test-1jpg.zip. (12mb)
        >
        > Thanks,
        > Phil
        >
      • John Houghton
        Phil, I didn t find too many problems stitching the images. I would have preferred to have used known lens parameters, but I let PTGui do its best, using
        Message 3 of 10 , Oct 30, 2010
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          Phil, I didn't find too many problems stitching the images. I would have preferred to have used known lens parameters, but I let PTGui do its best, using control points on the most distant features where possible. I optimized the nadir into position in PTGui, but edited it in manually, using the warp tool in Photoshop. I used Smartblend for the lower half and PTGui's own blender for the sky. You really should shoot raw and remove the chromatic aberration in ACR.

          I put my project file and a 6000x3000 jpeg at:

          http://www.johnhpanos.com/test-1-jh.zip

          John

          --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <philip@...> wrote:
          >
          > Master Stitchers,
          >
          > I need help learning the advanced fine tuning methods in PTGui Pro Version 9.0beta4. I shot the images from a horizontal monopod so it's a little more difficult than stitching images shot from a tripod.
          >
          > Download the zipped files from http://360photopro.com/test-1jpg.zip. (12mb)
          >
          > Thanks,
          > Phil
          >
        • onezebra1
          Phil, First off I noticed that you where standing up when taking one of the shots and squatting down for the rest of them. You should try to use your body as
          Message 4 of 10 , Oct 30, 2010
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            Phil,

            First off I noticed that you where standing up when taking one of the shots and squatting down for the rest of them. You should try to use your body as a 2 point brace for the pole. When squatting down I put the end of the pole against the inside of my foot or under my hip joint, the second brace point would be my left arm or wrist resting upon my left knee holding the pole as I rotate the pole with my right hand.

            When stitching and checking in preview there where very bad stitching errors, I manual added about 20 more control points mostly out near the edges and it was better.
            I then used Smartblend and it fixed the bad stitching errors behind you on the tree and cliff, but the hill on the other side of the river still had a stitching error and the sky didn't blend well. I used Photoshop to fix them and to fix a hole in the sky.

            Looks like I could lean a few things from John, his way worked better.

            John, how do you use Smartblend for the lower half and PTGui's blinder for the upper half ?

            Roger Berry


            --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "John Houghton" <j.houghton@...> wrote:
            >
            > Phil, I didn't find too many problems stitching the images. I would have preferred to have used known lens parameters, but I let PTGui do its best, using control points on the most distant features where possible. I optimized the nadir into position in PTGui, but edited it in manually, using the warp tool in Photoshop. I used Smartblend for the lower half and PTGui's own blender for the sky. You really should shoot raw and remove the chromatic aberration in ACR.
            >
            > I put my project file and a 6000x3000 jpeg at:
            >
            > http://www.johnhpanos.com/test-1-jh.zip
            >
            > John
          • John Houghton
            ... Roger, it s simple: do two stitches using the two blenders and merge the two stitched images in Photoshop, using a layer mask to select the sky from the
            Message 5 of 10 , Oct 30, 2010
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              --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "onezebra1" <onezebra1@...> wrote:
              > John, how do you use Smartblend for the lower half and PTGui's
              > blinder for the upper half ?

              Roger, it's simple: do two stitches using the two blenders and merge the two stitched images in Photoshop, using a layer mask to select the sky from the PTGui blended result.

              John
            • Phil
              John, Thanks for your help. I ll look at your pts file to and restitch it again to see if I can match your result. I just started using the Sigma 8mm lens and
              Message 6 of 10 , Oct 30, 2010
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                John,

                Thanks for your help. I'll look at your pts file to and restitch it again to see if I can match your result.

                I just started using the Sigma 8mm lens and forgot about removing the CA. I do shoot in RAW and have removed the CA this morning on the images and saved the removal settings as a preset for the lens.

                I thought this would have been the tougher one to stitch from yesterday but it was easy. http://360photopro.com/media/360-bridge-view/

                Phil


                --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "John Houghton" <j.houghton@...> wrote:
                >
                > Phil, I didn't find too many problems stitching the images. I would have preferred to have used known lens parameters, but I let PTGui do its best, using control points on the most distant features where possible. I optimized the nadir into position in PTGui, but edited it in manually, using the warp tool in Photoshop. I used Smartblend for the lower half and PTGui's own blender for the sky. You really should shoot raw and remove the chromatic aberration in ACR.
                >
                > I put my project file and a 6000x3000 jpeg at:
                >
                > http://www.johnhpanos.com/test-1-jh.zip
                >
                > John
                >
                > --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <philip@> wrote:
                > >
                > > Master Stitchers,
                > >
                > > I need help learning the advanced fine tuning methods in PTGui Pro Version 9.0beta4. I shot the images from a horizontal monopod so it's a little more difficult than stitching images shot from a tripod.
                > >
                > > Download the zipped files from http://360photopro.com/test-1jpg.zip. (12mb)
                > >
                > > Thanks,
                > > Phil
                > >
                >
              • Phil
                Roger, Thanks for those stitching tips and how to become a better human tripod. It was seeing many of your monopod/pole shots that lead me away from the tripod
                Message 7 of 10 , Oct 30, 2010
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                  Roger,

                  Thanks for those stitching tips and how to become a better human tripod. It was seeing many of your monopod/pole shots that lead me away from the tripod to get a more interesting point of view.

                  The stand up shot in the series was for the nadir.

                  Thanks,
                  Phil


                  --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "onezebra1" <onezebra1@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > Phil,
                  >
                  > First off I noticed that you where standing up when taking one of the shots and squatting down for the rest of them. You should try to use your body as a 2 point brace for the pole. When squatting down I put the end of the pole against the inside of my foot or under my hip joint, the second brace point would be my left arm or wrist resting upon my left knee holding the pole as I rotate the pole with my right hand.
                  >
                  > When stitching and checking in preview there where very bad stitching errors, I manual added about 20 more control points mostly out near the edges and it was better.
                  > I then used Smartblend and it fixed the bad stitching errors behind you on the tree and cliff, but the hill on the other side of the river still had a stitching error and the sky didn't blend well. I used Photoshop to fix them and to fix a hole in the sky.
                  >
                  > Looks like I could lean a few things from John, his way worked better.
                  >
                  > John, how do you use Smartblend for the lower half and PTGui's blinder for the upper half ?
                  >
                  > Roger Berry
                  >
                  >
                  > --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "John Houghton" <j.houghton@> wrote:
                  > >
                  > > Phil, I didn't find too many problems stitching the images. I would have preferred to have used known lens parameters, but I let PTGui do its best, using control points on the most distant features where possible. I optimized the nadir into position in PTGui, but edited it in manually, using the warp tool in Photoshop. I used Smartblend for the lower half and PTGui's own blender for the sky. You really should shoot raw and remove the chromatic aberration in ACR.
                  > >
                  > > I put my project file and a 6000x3000 jpeg at:
                  > >
                  > > http://www.johnhpanos.com/test-1-jh.zip
                  > >
                  > > John
                  >
                • Andrew
                  Phil, Is there any chance (if you have the time) to explain how you went about taking the pictures for your bridge shot. It s pretty impressive ;-) Do you use
                  Message 8 of 10 , Oct 31, 2010
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                    Phil,

                    Is there any chance (if you have the time) to explain how you went about taking the pictures for your bridge shot. It's pretty impressive ;-)

                    Do you use one of those painters poles or something similar with a panohead attached to the end?

                    I can't visualize how you would take the pictures e.g camera angle on the pole/head, especially the one that captures yourself in the shot. I read Rogers pointers on pole support.

                    I have a canon 5d MK II, nikkor 10.5mm and Nodal Ninja 5 but that's not going on a pole so I would have to use my old Nikon D80, 10.5mm on a NN3.

                    Thanks,

                    Andrew




                    --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <philip@...> wrote:
                    >
                    > John,
                    >
                    > Thanks for your help. I'll look at your pts file to and restitch it again to see if I can match your result.
                    >
                    > I just started using the Sigma 8mm lens and forgot about removing the CA. I do shoot in RAW and have removed the CA this morning on the images and saved the removal settings as a preset for the lens.
                    >
                    > I thought this would have been the tougher one to stitch from yesterday but it was easy. http://360photopro.com/media/360-bridge-view/
                    >
                    > Phil
                    >
                    >
                    > --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "John Houghton" <j.houghton@> wrote:
                    > >
                    > > Phil, I didn't find too many problems stitching the images. I would have preferred to have used known lens parameters, but I let PTGui do its best, using control points on the most distant features where possible. I optimized the nadir into position in PTGui, but edited it in manually, using the warp tool in Photoshop. I used Smartblend for the lower half and PTGui's own blender for the sky. You really should shoot raw and remove the chromatic aberration in ACR.
                    > >
                    > > I put my project file and a 6000x3000 jpeg at:
                    > >
                    > > http://www.johnhpanos.com/test-1-jh.zip
                    > >
                    > > John
                    > >
                    > > --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <philip@> wrote:
                    > > >
                    > > > Master Stitchers,
                    > > >
                    > > > I need help learning the advanced fine tuning methods in PTGui Pro Version 9.0beta4. I shot the images from a horizontal monopod so it's a little more difficult than stitching images shot from a tripod.
                    > > >
                    > > > Download the zipped files from http://360photopro.com/test-1jpg.zip. (12mb)
                    > > >
                    > > > Thanks,
                    > > > Phil
                    > > >
                    > >
                    >
                  • onezebra1
                    What I use to do on shots like that when I was using a Canon 10D and then the 20D with a Sigma 8mm lens. Tilt the camera pointing down the pole a little, this
                    Message 9 of 10 , Oct 31, 2010
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                      What I use to do on shots like that when I was using a Canon 10D and then the 20D with a Sigma 8mm lens.
                      Tilt the camera pointing down the pole a little, this takes care of the nadir but leaves a hole in the zenith which is usually the sky or something far away and easy to fix.
                      With the camera in hand take the zenith shot if needed, use Photoshop to patch the small zenith hole.

                      Roger Berry


                      --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew" <conanthedestroya222@...> wrote:
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      > Phil,
                      >
                      > Is there any chance (if you have the time) to explain how you went about taking the pictures for your bridge shot. It's pretty impressive ;-)
                      >
                      > Do you use one of those painters poles or something similar with a panohead attached to the end?
                      >
                      > I can't visualize how you would take the pictures e.g camera angle on the pole/head, especially the one that captures yourself in the shot. I read Rogers pointers on pole support.
                      >
                      > I have a canon 5d MK II, nikkor 10.5mm and Nodal Ninja 5 but that's not going on a pole so I would have to use my old Nikon D80, 10.5mm on a NN3.
                      >
                      > Thanks,
                      >
                      > Andrew
                    • Phil
                      Andrew, Roger beat me to the reply. Shot from an inverted monopod using a home made L bracket much like Roger s. A Nodal Ninja R1 would work well with your
                      Message 10 of 10 , Oct 31, 2010
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                        Andrew,

                        Roger beat me to the reply. Shot from an inverted monopod using a home made L bracket much like Roger's. A Nodal Ninja R1 would work well with your camera & lens.

                        Because I had a very small nadir I only needed 4 shots with the Sigma 8mm on a Canon 30D. The pole was aimed at the sky that is easy to patch while holding on to it with one hand. Switch hands and shoot again.

                        Using the 10.5mm lens you'll need to shoot with the 5D.

                        Phil


                        --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew" <conanthedestroya222@...> wrote:
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        > Phil,
                        >
                        > Is there any chance (if you have the time) to explain how you went about taking the pictures for your bridge shot. It's pretty impressive ;-)
                        >
                        > Do you use one of those painters poles or something similar with a panohead attached to the end?
                        >
                        > I can't visualize how you would take the pictures e.g camera angle on the pole/head, especially the one that captures yourself in the shot. I read Rogers pointers on pole support.
                        >
                        > I have a canon 5d MK II, nikkor 10.5mm and Nodal Ninja 5 but that's not going on a pole so I would have to use my old Nikon D80, 10.5mm on a NN3.
                        >
                        > Thanks,
                        >
                        > Andrew
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