One shot Panos
- Hi Guys looking for some advice again.
I want to move over to some one shot panos, 8 and 16 is excellent for detailed stuff but need one shot to get in and get out quickly.
Can anyone suggest the best equipment for the job Pano Pro etc and a good lens to go with it.
I have two Canon bodies 1D and 5D I usually use a 8mm Fish eye and 14mm Canon lens.
I also have a RICOH GX-200
Thank you for any help or advice
- Sometime around 27/8/09 (at 08:54 +0000) jwynne164 said:
>I want to move over to some one shot panos, 8 and 16 is excellentOne big problem with one-shot panos is the limited maximum resolution
>for detailed stuff but need one shot to get in and get out quickly.
you get. A true one-shot solution (ignoring rotating camera
solutions) will involve a dome-style mirror and capturing the whole
scene in a single frame. You'll need a very high-megapixel camera to
get something suitable for full-screen work, and because of the
natural limitations of these devices it'll still be a relatively
restricted cylinder with sub-optimal optical qualities.
As for actual products... the 360 One VR 'lens' was sold by Kaidan,
but Kaidan is no longer selling products at this time. However,
EyeSee360 (co-developers of the 360 One) has the
essentially-identical GoPano offered on their site for $599
It looks like you'll need to trawl the EyeSee360 forums
(http://www.eyesee360.com/forum/) to find recommendations for cameras
and lenses, but from memory: a dSLR with a close-focusing standard
lens (preferably prime and around the 35-80mm mark) should work well
with the right bracket (additional $199), but your wide and fisheye
lenses are too short for effective work. Some point-and-shoot cameras
(again with the appropriate bracket) are said to work acceptably too.
I recommend looking at the alternatives before splashing the cash.
With a good pano head and your existing equipment (5D and Sigma 8mm)
you should, I think, be able to shoot just three around and turn out
a perfectly acceptable panorama with the flexibility of an all-but
complete spherical image (croppable to a cylinder if preferred) and
at least fair resolution. It'll be better in optical terms too. It
will require three shots and some stitching (which can be templated
and more-or-less automated with a precise head) but you'll get better
results. AND you won't have to figure out how to get out of the shot,
which should be considered with one-shot solutions.
It depends in the end on what you're after - at what point speed and
simplicity trumps quality, or vice versa. My personal bias is pretty
clear, but please don't take this to mean that a true one-shot
solution is always the bad choice!
- --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "jwynne164" <jwynne164@...> wrote:
>Why do you believe that shooting oneshot is faster.
> Hi Guys looking for some advice again.
> I want to move over to some one shot panos, 8 and 16 is excellent for detailed stuff but need one shot to get in and get out quickly.
> Can anyone suggest the best equipment for the job Pano Pro etc and a good lens to go with it.
> I have two Canon bodies 1D and 5D I usually use a 8mm Fish eye and 14mm Canon lens.
> I also have a RICOH GX-200
You still need a good tripod.
You need to find the best view when you enter the room.
You still need to do leveling. Actually that is much more important with the oneshot unless you want to do special levelling of the final pano in PTGui.
You need to choose the exposure.
With the oneshot you need to have a wireless remote or use timer and get out of the room.
The shooting may take only 5-10 second with the oneshot including hiding .
Taking 4 around with a Sigma 87mm for example takes 60 seconds including mirror up and 3 image bracketing. A simple 4 around is less than 30 sec.
I would say that the first steps until actual exposure takes 5 minutes per pano wether you use oneshot or a 4 around setup.
So your actual saving is less than 20% time for the shot.
Todays stitching is so fast that the difference per pano using a good batch stitching setup is practically none.
But the difference in quality is huge.
>Todays stitching is so fast that the difference per pano using aPerhaps slightly overstated. :-) Stitching isn't really a zero-time
>good batch stitching setup is practically none.
process, and getting to the point of having a reliable batching
workflow in the first place can take a little while and requires that
things are done in a very specific manner. Whereas a one-shot device
delivers images that bypass that whole multiple image stitch process
>But the difference in quality is huge.THIS is the big point as far as I'm concerned. Hans is SO right; the
quality difference is dramatic.
It all depends on what's needed. And what the budget is too, I
suppose. I have a 360One VR mirror lens, but I never use it except
occasionally as part of teaching. The quality was simply too
disappointing compared to what I can get with stitched workflows.
- On Thu, 27 Aug 2009 17:54:35 +0900, jwynne164 <jwynne164@...>
> Hi Guys looking for some advice again.Well, James, I don't know if this will be any help, but I used to be keen
> I want to move over to some one shot panos, 8 and 16 is excellent for
> detailed stuff but need one shot to get in and get out quickly.
> Can anyone suggest the best equipment for the job Pano Pro etc and a
> good lens to go with it.
> I have two Canon bodies 1D and 5D I usually use a 8mm Fish eye and 14mm
> Canon lens.
> I also have a RICOH GX-200
on the one-shot panorama, and used a rotary camera with 120 (or 220) film.
With the Nikon f/2.8 lens I was using, I got vertical coverage of about
90 degrees, which is fine if you are content with a cylindrical panorama
that only leaves out the ground and sky (seldom of interest).
But as I moved to digital and learned how to stitch spherical panoramas
the quipment has been gathering dust...
However, like you, I am now considering the Pano Pro to get back to the
speed and simplicity of the one-shot panorama with quality good enough
for many web applications (and possibly for video, which is surely the
I have been in correspondence with their technical guy (very well informed
and helpful) and feel that one of the new Olympus neo-F series would be
a good choice.
The lens needs to have the right focal length = field-of-view to cover the
mirror, and for the Olympus 4/3 sensor that works out at about 40mm to
42mm. On a 1.5x sensor it would be within the normal zoom range. They
normally talk about zoom lenses but that's only because there are so few
primes at about the right FL (60mm on a Canon 1.6x sensor).
I have an excellent (read "prime") 40mm lens, and with the right adaptor
I could use it with the Olympus body. Of course you need to stop well
down to get the depth of focus needed to cover the entire mirror image,
but hopefully you wouldn't need to go up to f/22 where diffraction would
soften the image.
- On Thu, 27 Aug 2009 19:49:26 +0900, panoramicsdk <hans@...> wrote:
> With the oneshot you need to have a wireless remote or use timer and getThis is not necessarily so, given that you can hide in the nadir blind
> out of the room.
This is a valid point, though, as I frequently appear in the cylindrical
panoramas taken with my Voyageur rotary camera. <g>