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Re: AW: [PanoToolsNG] Shooting persons at dark rooms

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  • Gerald Lodron
    hmm, i have the Nikon SB900, a quite good flash i think. But I always get the middle/the person overexposured and the background underexposured. I alswasy
    Message 1 of 7 , Apr 1, 2009
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      hmm, i have the Nikon SB900, a quite good flash i think. But I always get the middle/the person overexposured and the background underexposured. I alswasy worked in automatik mode but i will try it, thanks



      ________________________________
      From: ptgroup <ptgroup@...>
      To: PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Wednesday, April 1, 2009 7:38:56 PM
      Subject: AW: [PanoToolsNG] Shooting persons at dark rooms

      Hi Gerald,
      use a flash..
      I used a DPZ 38, a real cheap one, in manual mode.
      Bouncer pushed over an set MANUAL 24mm and to 1/4-1/8 of it´s power.
      App. 45° up and 5-10- away from the camera.

      Works well with Sigma 8mm // Canon 40D.
      Just play a little.
      Ciao
      M;ke
      360° VR Fotografie:
      http://www.360de.de

      NEU: Abstrakte Fotografie unter:
      http://www.abstraktfoto.de
      -----------------------------
      -----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
      Von: PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com]Im
      Auftrag von Gerald Lodron
      Gesendet: Mittwoch, 1. April 2009 19:27
      An: PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com
      Betreff: [PanoToolsNG] Shooting persons at dark rooms


      I have another question:

      When I shoot in buildings where the illumination is very bad, how can I
      make images from humans? When I shoot with my fisheye I need very long
      explosure times and the faces becomes very unsharp. I already shoot with
      ISO800 and a tripod but the images are bad. I cannot use a flash because
      then the 180 degree fisheyeimages are badly illuminated (no flash can
      illuminate 180 degrees, it looks like vignetting). Are there any tricks I do
      not know yet?

      best regards

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    • Eduardo Hutter
      Like Eric said, bounce it to the ceiling which should be ok if the ceiling is not very high or dark. A well balanced combination of low speed and bounced flash
      Message 2 of 7 , Apr 1, 2009
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        Like Eric said, bounce it to the ceiling which should be ok if the
        ceiling is not very high or dark. A well balanced combination of low
        speed and bounced flash should get you a good set of photos. You can
        also use a diffuser over your sb900, personally I like it better and is
        more efficient concerning your batteries. Check your dealer for Gary
        Fong - http://tinyurl.com/dypzbt - there are others of course but this
        one is really nice. There's one thing about it though: it's bulky.

        cheers

        Eduardo

        * Erik Krause wrote, On 01/04/2009 3:54 PM:
        >
        > Gerald Lodron wrote:
        >
        > > I cannot use a flash because then the 180 degree fisheyeimages are
        > > badly illuminated (no flash can illuminate 180 degrees, it looks
        > > like vignetting).
        >
        > You can't use it directly, but you can use indirect flash. Point the
        > flash at the ceiling behind the camera (ceiling must be white!) or
        > point it at a reflector (white cardboard, styrofoam or alike) behind
        > the camera. You need a more powerful flash of course...
        >
        > Direct flash is no good idea, not even for conventional
        > photography...
        >
        > -- Erik Krause http://www.erik-krause.de <http://www.erik-krause.de>
      • Erik Krause
        ... You can t use it directly, but you can use indirect flash. Point the flash at the ceiling behind the camera (ceiling must be white!) or point it at a
        Message 3 of 7 , Apr 1, 2009
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          Gerald Lodron wrote:

          > I cannot use a flash because then the 180 degree fisheyeimages are badly
          > illuminated (no flash can illuminate 180 degrees, it looks like vignetting).

          You can't use it directly, but you can use indirect flash. Point the
          flash at the ceiling behind the camera (ceiling must be white!) or point
          it at a reflector (white cardboard, styrofoam or alike) behind the
          camera. You need a more powerful flash of course...

          Direct flash is no good idea, not even for conventional photography...

          --
          Erik Krause
          http://www.erik-krause.de
        • Gerald Lodron
          sounds interesting, i will have a look at that, thanks ________________________________ From: Eduardo Hutter To:
          Message 4 of 7 , Apr 1, 2009
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            sounds interesting, i will have a look at that, thanks



            ________________________________
            From: Eduardo Hutter <admForum@...>
            To: PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com
            Sent: Wednesday, April 1, 2009 8:47:54 PM
            Subject: Re: [PanoToolsNG] Re: Shooting persons at dark rooms


            Like Eric said, bounce it to the ceiling which should be ok if the
            ceiling is not very high or dark. A well balanced combination of low
            speed and bounced flash should get you a good set of photos. You can
            also use a diffuser over your sb900, personally I like it better and is
            more efficient concerning your batteries. Check your dealer for Gary
            Fong - http://tinyurl. com/dypzbt - there are others of course but this
            one is really nice. There's one thing about it though: it's bulky.

            cheers

            Eduardo

            * Erik Krause wrote, On 01/04/2009 3:54 PM:
            >
            > Gerald Lodron wrote:
            >
            > > I cannot use a flash because then the 180 degree fisheyeimages are
            > > badly illuminated (no flash can illuminate 180 degrees, it looks
            > > like vignetting).
            >
            > You can't use it directly, but you can use indirect flash. Point the
            > flash at the ceiling behind the camera (ceiling must be white!) or
            > point it at a reflector (white cardboard, styrofoam or alike) behind
            > the camera. You need a more powerful flash of course...
            >
            > Direct flash is no good idea, not even for conventional
            > photography. ..
            >
            > -- Erik Krause http://www.erik-krause.de http://www.erik- krause.de>






            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • Keith Martin
            ... It can be squashed into pockets in bags, but yes, it is a bit bulky. The other thing about it is that people wonder why you have your tupperware lunchbox
            Message 5 of 7 , Apr 1, 2009
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              Sometime around 1/4/09 (at 15:47 -0300) Eduardo Hutter said:

              >Check your dealer for Gary
              >Fong - http://tinyurl.com/dypzbt - there are others of course but this
              >one is really nice. There's one thing about it though: it's bulky.

              It can be squashed into pockets in bags, but yes, it is a bit bulky.
              The other thing about it is that people wonder why you have your
              tupperware lunchbox stuck on your flash. But man, the results are
              worth the teasing. :-)

              k
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