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AW: [PanoToolsNG] Shooting persons at dark rooms

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  • ptgroup
    Hi Gerald, use a flash. I used a DPZ 38, a real cheap one, in manual mode. Bouncer pushed over an set MANUAL 24mm and to 1/4-1/8 of it´s power. App. 45° up
    Message 1 of 7 , Apr 1, 2009
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      Hi Gerald,
      use a flash.
      I used a DPZ 38, a real cheap one, in manual mode.
      Bouncer pushed over an set MANUAL 24mm and to 1/4-1/8 of it�s power.
      App. 45� up and 5-10- away from the camera.

      Works well with Sigma 8mm // Canon 40D.
      Just play a little.
      Ciao
      M;ke
      360� VR Fotografie:
      http://www.360de.de

      NEU: Abstrakte Fotografie unter:
      http://www.abstraktfoto.de
      -----------------------------
      -----Urspr�ngliche Nachricht-----
      Von: PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com]Im
      Auftrag von Gerald Lodron
      Gesendet: Mittwoch, 1. April 2009 19:27
      An: PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com
      Betreff: [PanoToolsNG] Shooting persons at dark rooms


      I have another question:

      When I shoot in buildings where the illumination is very bad, how can I
      make images from humans? When I shoot with my fisheye I need very long
      explosure times and the faces becomes very unsharp. I already shoot with
      ISO800 and a tripod but the images are bad. I cannot use a flash because
      then the 180 degree fisheyeimages are badly illuminated (no flash can
      illuminate 180 degrees, it looks like vignetting). Are there any tricks I do
      not know yet?

      best regards

      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • Gerald Lodron
      hmm, i have the Nikon SB900, a quite good flash i think. But I always get the middle/the person overexposured and the background underexposured. I alswasy
      Message 2 of 7 , Apr 1, 2009
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        hmm, i have the Nikon SB900, a quite good flash i think. But I always get the middle/the person overexposured and the background underexposured. I alswasy worked in automatik mode but i will try it, thanks



        ________________________________
        From: ptgroup <ptgroup@...>
        To: PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com
        Sent: Wednesday, April 1, 2009 7:38:56 PM
        Subject: AW: [PanoToolsNG] Shooting persons at dark rooms

        Hi Gerald,
        use a flash..
        I used a DPZ 38, a real cheap one, in manual mode.
        Bouncer pushed over an set MANUAL 24mm and to 1/4-1/8 of it´s power.
        App. 45° up and 5-10- away from the camera.

        Works well with Sigma 8mm // Canon 40D.
        Just play a little.
        Ciao
        M;ke
        360° VR Fotografie:
        http://www.360de.de

        NEU: Abstrakte Fotografie unter:
        http://www.abstraktfoto.de
        -----------------------------
        -----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
        Von: PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com]Im
        Auftrag von Gerald Lodron
        Gesendet: Mittwoch, 1. April 2009 19:27
        An: PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com
        Betreff: [PanoToolsNG] Shooting persons at dark rooms


        I have another question:

        When I shoot in buildings where the illumination is very bad, how can I
        make images from humans? When I shoot with my fisheye I need very long
        explosure times and the faces becomes very unsharp. I already shoot with
        ISO800 and a tripod but the images are bad. I cannot use a flash because
        then the 180 degree fisheyeimages are badly illuminated (no flash can
        illuminate 180 degrees, it looks like vignetting). Are there any tricks I do
        not know yet?

        best regards

        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



        ------------------------------------

        --






        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • Eduardo Hutter
        Like Eric said, bounce it to the ceiling which should be ok if the ceiling is not very high or dark. A well balanced combination of low speed and bounced flash
        Message 3 of 7 , Apr 1, 2009
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          Like Eric said, bounce it to the ceiling which should be ok if the
          ceiling is not very high or dark. A well balanced combination of low
          speed and bounced flash should get you a good set of photos. You can
          also use a diffuser over your sb900, personally I like it better and is
          more efficient concerning your batteries. Check your dealer for Gary
          Fong - http://tinyurl.com/dypzbt - there are others of course but this
          one is really nice. There's one thing about it though: it's bulky.

          cheers

          Eduardo

          * Erik Krause wrote, On 01/04/2009 3:54 PM:
          >
          > Gerald Lodron wrote:
          >
          > > I cannot use a flash because then the 180 degree fisheyeimages are
          > > badly illuminated (no flash can illuminate 180 degrees, it looks
          > > like vignetting).
          >
          > You can't use it directly, but you can use indirect flash. Point the
          > flash at the ceiling behind the camera (ceiling must be white!) or
          > point it at a reflector (white cardboard, styrofoam or alike) behind
          > the camera. You need a more powerful flash of course...
          >
          > Direct flash is no good idea, not even for conventional
          > photography...
          >
          > -- Erik Krause http://www.erik-krause.de <http://www.erik-krause.de>
        • Erik Krause
          ... You can t use it directly, but you can use indirect flash. Point the flash at the ceiling behind the camera (ceiling must be white!) or point it at a
          Message 4 of 7 , Apr 1, 2009
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            Gerald Lodron wrote:

            > I cannot use a flash because then the 180 degree fisheyeimages are badly
            > illuminated (no flash can illuminate 180 degrees, it looks like vignetting).

            You can't use it directly, but you can use indirect flash. Point the
            flash at the ceiling behind the camera (ceiling must be white!) or point
            it at a reflector (white cardboard, styrofoam or alike) behind the
            camera. You need a more powerful flash of course...

            Direct flash is no good idea, not even for conventional photography...

            --
            Erik Krause
            http://www.erik-krause.de
          • Gerald Lodron
            sounds interesting, i will have a look at that, thanks ________________________________ From: Eduardo Hutter To:
            Message 5 of 7 , Apr 1, 2009
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              sounds interesting, i will have a look at that, thanks



              ________________________________
              From: Eduardo Hutter <admForum@...>
              To: PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com
              Sent: Wednesday, April 1, 2009 8:47:54 PM
              Subject: Re: [PanoToolsNG] Re: Shooting persons at dark rooms


              Like Eric said, bounce it to the ceiling which should be ok if the
              ceiling is not very high or dark. A well balanced combination of low
              speed and bounced flash should get you a good set of photos. You can
              also use a diffuser over your sb900, personally I like it better and is
              more efficient concerning your batteries. Check your dealer for Gary
              Fong - http://tinyurl. com/dypzbt - there are others of course but this
              one is really nice. There's one thing about it though: it's bulky.

              cheers

              Eduardo

              * Erik Krause wrote, On 01/04/2009 3:54 PM:
              >
              > Gerald Lodron wrote:
              >
              > > I cannot use a flash because then the 180 degree fisheyeimages are
              > > badly illuminated (no flash can illuminate 180 degrees, it looks
              > > like vignetting).
              >
              > You can't use it directly, but you can use indirect flash. Point the
              > flash at the ceiling behind the camera (ceiling must be white!) or
              > point it at a reflector (white cardboard, styrofoam or alike) behind
              > the camera. You need a more powerful flash of course...
              >
              > Direct flash is no good idea, not even for conventional
              > photography. ..
              >
              > -- Erik Krause http://www.erik-krause.de http://www.erik- krause.de>






              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • Keith Martin
              ... It can be squashed into pockets in bags, but yes, it is a bit bulky. The other thing about it is that people wonder why you have your tupperware lunchbox
              Message 6 of 7 , Apr 1, 2009
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                Sometime around 1/4/09 (at 15:47 -0300) Eduardo Hutter said:

                >Check your dealer for Gary
                >Fong - http://tinyurl.com/dypzbt - there are others of course but this
                >one is really nice. There's one thing about it though: it's bulky.

                It can be squashed into pockets in bags, but yes, it is a bit bulky.
                The other thing about it is that people wonder why you have your
                tupperware lunchbox stuck on your flash. But man, the results are
                worth the teasing. :-)

                k
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