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Nodal Ninja 3 and the EF-S 10-22

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  • Daniel M. German
    I posted this last night to the Max Lyons forums. I think it might be useful to some of you too. I finally received my NN3 and overall I am very happy with it.
    Message 1 of 2 , Jul 29, 2006
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      I posted this last night to the Max Lyons forums. I think it might be
      useful to some of you too.


      I finally received my NN3 and overall I am very happy with it. It took
      almost a month for me to receive it because I did not want to use
      paypal and I had to send a cheque instead.

      It is indeed the most portable panorama head I have seen so far.

      I want to add some comments to what others have written about the
      pano-head, particularly as it applies to the Canon EF-S 10-22 and the
      20d.

      1. The NN is not able to support this lens out of the box. I estimated
      the nodal distance (according to the NN scale) for the 10-22 to be
      106.5mm (at 10mm). Unfortunately the rubber shoe is too large and
      the maximum distance that it allows me to set the camera is
      100mm. I proceeded to cut 1cmm off the shoe on one side and that
      fixed the problem.

      2. The lens is wider at the end than the camera (between 1 and 2
      mm). Unfortunately because the camera sits way back in the head the
      front of the lens touches the arm of the NN, pushing the lens "up"
      (with respect to the camera, left with respect to the NN). The
      solution that I have used is to add a washer between the rubber
      feet and the NN arm. This has the unfortunate disadvantage of
      placing the camera around 1mm from the scale, making it more
      difficult to set at the proper distance. Another way to fix this
      problem would be to use a quick release.

      3. I found that the easiest way to calibrate the distance for the
      lower arm (to center the camera) was to use my EF 50 1.4 with a 25
      extension tube. I would then point the camera downwards. The center
      of the screw should line up with the focusing point of the
      camera. I suspect this is not _exact_ but it is probably better
      than other methods I have seen (like the needle and tape one).

      4. I want to comment that there are some of the markings are a bit
      inaccurate. For example, the lines that mark the zero at the top of
      the head (opposite to the 360 degrees markings, in the joint of the
      2 arms) is off by around 0.5mm. This is not a real problem, but it
      is annoying.

      Finally, I regret not having ordered the extension arm (I suspect this
      would have fixed my problem with the 10-22). I assumed that the 10-22
      was "small" enough to fit without any problems. Given that I am in
      Canada the cost of ordering itself will be too expensive :( I would
      recommend to anybody who is planning to buy it to include it their
      order.

      Overall I fully recommend the Nodal Ninja 3 (even for the EF-S 10-22,
      but remember, you will have to make the 2 modifications I mention
      above).

      Nick and Bill have a good product, and I expect it will keep improving
      with time.


      --
      Daniel M. German "La soledad no es necesariamente
      una maldición si aprende uno a
      Germán Dehesa -> hablar consigo mismo y si la sabe poblar de libros y de proyectos."
      http://turingmachine.org/
      http://silvernegative.com/
      dmg (at) uvic (dot) ca
      replace (at) with @ and (dot) with .
    • John Houghton
      ... Daniel, I have both of these problems with the Sigma 20mm lens. The solution I adopted was to use the N3-T20 offset T adapter which came in my bundle.
      Message 2 of 2 , Jul 29, 2006
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        --- In PanoToolsNG@yahoogroups.com, "Daniel M. German" <dmgerman@...>
        wrote:
        > 1. The NN is not able to support this lens out of the box. I estimated
        > the nodal distance (according to the NN scale) for the 10-22 to be
        > 106.5mm (at 10mm). Unfortunately the rubber shoe is too large and
        > the maximum distance that it allows me to set the camera is
        > 100mm.
        >
        > 2. The lens is wider at the end than the camera (between 1 and 2
        > mm).

        Daniel, I have both of these problems with the Sigma 20mm lens. The
        solution I adopted was to use the N3-T20 offset T adapter which came in
        my bundle. This moves the camera away from the upper arm by about 13mm
        and has the further benefit of moving the camera back by 30 or 40mm
        (two mounting holes provided).

        John
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