Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: [PPLetterpress] Re: Blatchford patent base

Expand Messages
  • Lisa Davidson
    Hi, Eric, Thanks for the info. How would you compare the ease of working with Blatchford to that of Sterling? Is it worth the extra money to get the
    Message 1 of 10 , Jul 5, 2008
    • 0 Attachment
      Hi, Eric,

      Thanks for the info. How would you compare the ease of working with
      Blatchford to that of Sterling? Is it worth the extra money to get
      the Sterling, or might not that be perfectly flat either (of course
      the plates might not be . . . .)??

      Thank you,

      Lisa


      On Jul 4, 2008, at 2:01 PM, parallel_imp wrote:

      > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "lisaxdavidson"
      > <lisaxdavidson@...> wrote:
      >
      > > In my price-reconnoitering about Sterling honeycomb base, I came
      > across something called
      > > Blatchford patent base, which is a similar design with holes and
      > hooks. Has anyone had
      > > experience with this stuff, or even know how perfectly flat it is,
      > or how thick it is?
      >
      > Blatchford base is the same thickness as Sterling toggle base, .759"
      > for 11-point plates (though Sterling also has .688" base for 1/4"
      > dies). Blatchford was made out of a relatively light non-ferrous
      > metal, in two sizes of L-sections, and what I have is shows more
      > battering than my Sterling steel or magnesium pieces. Blatchford
      > functions exactly the same as Sterling except that the holes are
      > smaller and more closely spaced. Sterling has the advantage that it is
      > still made, hooks are easy to get. All Blatchford is used and there is
      > no source of new base or hooks, and don't expect perfectly flat
      > either. But that is partly why we do interlay makeready (packing
      > between base and plate to bring to .918")--to make up for
      > imperfections in plate and base height.
      > --Eric Holub, SF
      >
      >
      >



      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • Fritz Klinke
      The Sterling Honeycomb bases are what are available, so it isn t really a consideration of comparing costs, except to used base and any of that that is
      Message 2 of 10 , Jul 5, 2008
      • 0 Attachment
        The Sterling Honeycomb bases are what are available, so it isn't really a consideration of comparing costs, except to used base and any of that that is available, is subject to immediate question as to accuracy, etc after unknown years of use. Sterling bases are flatter and truer than any wood base and probably the equal to Bunting and Boxcar bases for accuracy.

        Fritz

        ----- Original Message -----
        From: Lisa Davidson
        To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
        Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 3:00 AM
        Subject: Re: [PPLetterpress] Re: Blatchford patent base



        Hi, Eric,

        Thanks for the info. How would you compare the ease of working with
        Blatchford to that of Sterling? Is it worth the extra money to get
        the Sterling, or might not that be perfectly flat either (of course
        the plates might not be . . . .)??

        Thank you,

        Lisa

        On Jul 4, 2008, at 2:01 PM, parallel_imp wrote:

        > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "lisaxdavidson"
        > <lisaxdavidson@...> wrote:
        >
        > > In my price-reconnoitering about Sterling honeycomb base, I came
        > across something called
        > > Blatchford patent base, which is a similar design with holes and
        > hooks. Has anyone had
        > > experience with this stuff, or even know how perfectly flat it is,
        > or how thick it is?
        >
        > Blatchford base is the same thickness as Sterling toggle base, .759"
        > for 11-point plates (though Sterling also has .688" base for 1/4"
        > dies). Blatchford was made out of a relatively light non-ferrous
        > metal, in two sizes of L-sections, and what I have is shows more
        > battering than my Sterling steel or magnesium pieces. Blatchford
        > functions exactly the same as Sterling except that the holes are
        > smaller and more closely spaced. Sterling has the advantage that it is
        > still made, hooks are easy to get. All Blatchford is used and there is
        > no source of new base or hooks, and don't expect perfectly flat
        > either. But that is partly why we do interlay makeready (packing
        > between base and plate to bring to .918")--to make up for
        > imperfections in plate and base height.
        > --Eric Holub, SF
        >
        >
        >

        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • parallel_imp
        ... They work exactly the same, though Blatchford advertised the ease of locking up plates the size of a dime because of the close spacing of smaller holes.
        Message 3 of 10 , Jul 5, 2008
        • 0 Attachment
          --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, Lisa Davidson
          <lisaxdavidson@...> wrote:
          >
          > How would you compare the ease of working with
          > Blatchford to that of Sterling? Is it worth the extra money to get
          > the Sterling, or might not that be perfectly flat either (of course
          > the plates might not be . . . .)??

          They work exactly the same, though Blatchford advertised the ease of
          locking up plates the size of a dime because of the close spacing of
          smaller holes. But the only thing worth any money at all is base in
          good condition. Any piece of Blatchford base is at least forty years
          old, maybe eighty. However, even steel Sterling base can be abused,
          and anything that has been dumped in the barrel and kicked around the
          last couple decades is supect.
          I'd think a good choice would be a Blatchford or Sterling chase
          (both were available in full chases for specific presses) stored in a
          chase rack. Worst choice is a bunch of pieces from different sources
          with varying degrees of wear.
          Bear in mind that photopolymer plates must be mounted on a rigid
          plate of suitable thickness in order to use them with any patent base.
          I stress rigid because the holes in honeycomb will show in solid areas
          if there is the slightest deflection of the backing plate (well, you
          can plug the hole with dowel). In the end, there's a reason most of us
          use Bunting, Patmag or Boxcar methods of mounting photopolymer plates.
          --Eric Holub, SF
        • Lisa Davidson
          Aha, thank you, Eric. Lisa ... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          Message 4 of 10 , Jul 5, 2008
          • 0 Attachment
            Aha, thank you, Eric.
            Lisa


            On Jul 5, 2008, at 11:25 AM, parallel_imp wrote:

            > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, Lisa Davidson
            > <lisaxdavidson@...> wrote:
            > >
            > > How would you compare the ease of working with
            > > Blatchford to that of Sterling? Is it worth the extra money to get
            > > the Sterling, or might not that be perfectly flat either (of course
            > > the plates might not be . . . .)??
            >
            > They work exactly the same, though Blatchford advertised the ease of
            > locking up plates the size of a dime because of the close spacing of
            > smaller holes. But the only thing worth any money at all is base in
            > good condition. Any piece of Blatchford base is at least forty years
            > old, maybe eighty. However, even steel Sterling base can be abused,
            > and anything that has been dumped in the barrel and kicked around the
            > last couple decades is supect.
            > I'd think a good choice would be a Blatchford or Sterling chase
            > (both were available in full chases for specific presses) stored in a
            > chase rack. Worst choice is a bunch of pieces from different sources
            > with varying degrees of wear.
            > Bear in mind that photopolymer plates must be mounted on a rigid
            > plate of suitable thickness in order to use them with any patent base.
            > I stress rigid because the holes in honeycomb will show in solid areas
            > if there is the slightest deflection of the backing plate (well, you
            > can plug the hole with dowel). In the end, there's a reason most of us
            > use Bunting, Patmag or Boxcar methods of mounting photopolymer plates.
            > --Eric Holub, SF
            >
            >
            >



            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • Lamsland
            I don t have or know about the Blatchford base, but we have and still use the Sterling Honeycomb base. Matthew LAMMY Lamoureux Full Metal Press - Operis
            Message 5 of 10 , Jul 7, 2008
            • 0 Attachment
              I don't have or know about the Blatchford base, but we have and still
              use the Sterling Honeycomb base.


              Matthew "LAMMY" Lamoureux
              Full Metal Press - Operis servo a specialis nundinae

              On Jul 4, 2008, at 4:16 PM, lisaxdavidson wrote:

              >
              > Hi, everyone,
              >
              > In my price-reconnoitering about Sterling honeycomb base, I came
              > across something called
              > Blatchford patent base, which is a similar design with holes and
              > hooks. Has anyone had
              > experience with this stuff, or even know how perfectly flat it is,
              > or how thick it is?
              >
              > Thanks much,
              >
              > Lisa
              >
              >
              >



              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • John G. Henry
              I use both Sterling and Blatchford bases on my presses. I have chases set up with the Sterling for my cylinder press and the Blatchford for my platen press. I
              Message 6 of 10 , Jul 7, 2008
              • 0 Attachment
                I use both Sterling and Blatchford bases on my presses. I have chases
                set up with the Sterling for my cylinder press and the Blatchford for
                my platen press. I find no fault with either system.

                Take care in cleaning the bases (if you purchase used) and do not use
                any caustic cleaners (lye, paint stripper, etc.) as the magnesium base
                will be eaten away. That comment not from experience, but from knowing
                the physical makeup of aluminum and magnesium.

                I use a very stiff plastic as a base for mounting my polymer plates,
                and have good success with no show-through of the latch holes in the
                base. I have used steel as a mounting plate material in the past as
                well, but have switched to the plastic as it is easier to cut and bevel
                and works well for me. Experiment with materials you find available at
                your local home center. Polycarbonate window glazing is certainly a
                good material, and is available in the proper caliper to mount the
                plates I use.

                If you do choose to use a plastic inter-base to mount the photopolymer
                plates, make certain you do not tighten the hooks so tight that they
                cause the plate to warp when locked up.

                Of course, the bases are wonderful for mounting 11pt. engravings and
                embossing dies.
              • Lisa Davidson
                Thanks, John, that s extremely helpful. Lisa ... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                Message 7 of 10 , Jul 7, 2008
                • 0 Attachment
                  Thanks, John, that's extremely helpful.
                  Lisa

                  On Jul 7, 2008, at 8:29 AM, John G. Henry wrote:

                  > I use both Sterling and Blatchford bases on my presses. I have chases
                  > set up with the Sterling for my cylinder press and the Blatchford for
                  > my platen press. I find no fault with either system.
                  >
                  > Take care in cleaning the bases (if you purchase used) and do not use
                  > any caustic cleaners (lye, paint stripper, etc.) as the magnesium base
                  > will be eaten away. That comment not from experience, but from knowing
                  > the physical makeup of aluminum and magnesium.
                  >
                  > I use a very stiff plastic as a base for mounting my polymer plates,
                  > and have good success with no show-through of the latch holes in the
                  > base. I have used steel as a mounting plate material in the past as
                  > well, but have switched to the plastic as it is easier to cut and
                  > bevel
                  > and works well for me. Experiment with materials you find available at
                  > your local home center. Polycarbonate window glazing is certainly a
                  > good material, and is available in the proper caliper to mount the
                  > plates I use.
                  >
                  > If you do choose to use a plastic inter-base to mount the photopolymer
                  > plates, make certain you do not tighten the hooks so tight that they
                  > cause the plate to warp when locked up.
                  >
                  > Of course, the bases are wonderful for mounting 11pt. engravings and
                  > embossing dies.
                  >
                  >
                  >



                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.