Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: [PPLetterpress] Re: Material to make large printing blocks

Expand Messages
  • Lisa Davidson
    I can t believe all these printers using steamrollers! When did that start happening? Lisa ... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    Message 1 of 24 , May 4, 2008
    • 0 Attachment
      I can't believe all these printers using steamrollers! When did that
      start happening?

      Lisa


      On May 4, 2008, at 9:20 AM, briannqueen wrote:

      > Erik,
      > Thank you for posting that video. Do you use the v-bit for all
      > your cutting or do you start with end mills? Also what programs are
      > you using? I have a friend that makes brass dies for foil printing
      > and he uses ArtCAM. I've watched him program images and text a number
      > of times and it seemed fairly simple. The cost of ArtCAM of course is
      > a problem.
      > I just acquired a piece of Corian after hearing from another
      > artist that it prints well. Other than its cost it seems to be the
      > perfect candidate since it's designed to be machinable. Here in North
      > America it's only sold to authorized fabricators who don't normally
      > sell it in sheet form. A laminate of 6mm Corian and MDF planed to
      > type high could be the perfect match combined with CNC technology, no
      > variation in qualities or grain to worry about. I see on Wikipedia
      > that Corian has several competitors, who I'm guessing may be cheaper.
      > I'm also experimenting with 3mm white styrene sheet laminated to MDF
      > which is considerably less expensive.
      > Keep us posted on your progress and thank you for the pictures and
      > video, they have inspired me!
      >
      > Brian
      >
      > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Erik Desmyter"
      > <erik.desmyter@...> wrote:
      > >
      > > I have also been experimenting with a CNC-router to make large size
      > blocks
      > > or plates to print from on on my traditional iron handpresses. I
      > can say
      > > that this computer to plate technology has some potential &
      > limitations and
      > > there are many variables & tolerances in tools, software, material
      > & machine
      > > which make everything rather complex. The X, Y, Z axis feed speeds,
      > the
      > > router speed, the flatness of the material (no bowing allowed), the
      > angle &
      > > sharpness of the routing bits and the 3-dimensional software
      > working from 3D
      > > vectors isn't easy in combination with the specifics of letterpress
      > type &
      > > inking.
      > >
      > > I experimented with different materials and had the best results
      > with
      > > expensive materials like Corian (acrylic stone) but working in wood
      > is fun
      > > but challenging as every kind of wood has different
      > characteristics. Routing
      > > speeds should be lower to avoid heating up or burning the wood but
      > avoiding
      > > a burr or damaged edges isn't always easy because high routing
      > speeds just
      > > give the best sharp edges. Similar story on the X, Y & Z speeds,
      > when you go
      > > too fast quality goes down and when you go to slow the wood gets
      > dark and
      > > starts to heat up. And making a large plate with slow speeds takes
      > hours...
      > > I have just made a small movie and some photos on an experiment in
      > beech,
      > > see links below.
      > >
      > >http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tk4QmaU4JIg
      > >
      > >http://www.flickr.com/photos/desmyter1856/sets/72157604867473339/
      > >
      > > For very large plates I guess a good quality MDF would be good but
      > I haven't
      > > tested this yet. I am always interested in experiences from other
      > folks
      > > working in this direction with CNC technology.
      > >
      > > Best regards,
      > > Erik Desmyter
      > > Gent, Belgium
      > > erik.desmyter@...
      >
      >
      >



      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • Joe Freedman
      I ve used a program called V-Carve to cut wood on a CNC. Its a great program: easy to use and pretty inexpensive. I can import eps files made on a mac and
      Message 2 of 24 , May 4, 2008
      • 0 Attachment
        I've used a program called V-Carve to cut wood on a CNC. Its a great
        program: easy to use and pretty inexpensive. I can import eps files
        made on a mac and easily set the parameters in V-Carve. It drives my
        little Roland engraver directly with no post processor or dxf
        conversion.

        Website is http://www.vectric.com/

        I still haven't committed it for use on any projects but it seems to
        do a really nice job.

        Joe
      • Lamsland
        I ve been looking into CO2 laser engraving systems. Looks to be a great solution. You could make wood or metal plates. Very precise, lots of control and
        Message 3 of 24 , May 5, 2008
        • 0 Attachment
          I've been looking into CO2 laser engraving systems. Looks to be a
          great solution. You could make wood or metal plates. Very precise,
          lots of control and horribly expensive. The company that makes an
          affordable smaller laser engraver will have a whole market to
          themselves I think.


          Matthew "LAMMY" Lamoureux
          Full Metal Press - Operis servo a specialis nundinae

          On May 3, 2008, at 6:33 PM, Erik Desmyter wrote:

          > I have also been experimenting with a CNC-router to make large size
          > blocks
          > or plates to print from on on my traditional iron handpresses. I
          > can say
          > that this computer to plate technology has some potential &
          > limitations and
          > there are many variables & tolerances in tools, software, material
          > & machine
          > which make everything rather complex. The X, Y, Z axis feed speeds,
          > the
          > router speed, the flatness of the material (no bowing allowed), the
          > angle &
          > sharpness of the routing bits and the 3-dimensional software
          > working from 3D
          > vectors isn't easy in combination with the specifics of letterpress
          > type &
          > inking.
          >
          > I experimented with different materials and had the best results with
          > expensive materials like Corian (acrylic stone) but working in wood
          > is fun
          > but challenging as every kind of wood has different
          > characteristics. Routing
          > speeds should be lower to avoid heating up or burning the wood but
          > avoiding
          > a burr or damaged edges isn't always easy because high routing
          > speeds just
          > give the best sharp edges. Similar story on the X, Y & Z speeds,
          > when you go
          > too fast quality goes down and when you go to slow the wood gets
          > dark and
          > starts to heat up. And making a large plate with slow speeds takes
          > hours...
          > I have just made a small movie and some photos on an experiment in
          > beech,
          > see links below.
          >
          > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tk4QmaU4JIg
          >
          > http://www.flickr.com/photos/desmyter1856/sets/72157604867473339/
          >
          > For very large plates I guess a good quality MDF would be good but
          > I haven't
          > tested this yet. I am always interested in experiences from other
          > folks
          > working in this direction with CNC technology.
          >
          > Best regards,
          > Erik Desmyter
          > Gent, Belgium
          > erik.desmyter@...
          >
          > ----- Original Message -----
          > From: "briannqueen" <BQueen@...>
          > To: <PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com>
          > Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 3:35 PM
          > Subject: [PPLetterpress] Material to make large printing blocks
          >
          > I own a CNC router (computer numerical control) which simply put is a
          > router controlled by a computer. I plan on using my machine to make
          > large wood blocks, as large as four feet by eight feet and smaller
          > ones
          > for my Vandercook SP15 press. We plan on printing the 4' x 8' prints
          > using a steam roller at a public event. I'm looking for help in
          > determining the best wood or printing surface for this purpose. I
          > could
          > use ordinary plywood of course, but it has a grain and leaves a burr.
          > Can anyone recommend a plastic that may be suitable? Detail on the
          > very
          > largest blocks is less of a concern but I want fine detail on the
          > smaller blocks. I'm aware of Resingrave which would be perfect except
          > that it would be much too expensive for the size of quantity I will be
          > using. I considered acrylic but it's kind of brittle and a pain to
          > machine. I figure there must be some kind of polymer out there that
          > will do the trick and not dissolve during cleanup. Any help would be
          > appreciated!
          >
          > ------------------------------------
          >
          > Yahoo! Groups Links
          >
          >



          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • briannqueen
          Erik, I was excited to see your post about this new material that was thick enough to be planed down to type high. The website showed what appeared to be a
          Message 4 of 24 , May 8, 2008
          • 0 Attachment
            Erik,
            I was excited to see your post about this new material that was
            thick enough to be planed down to type high. The website showed what
            appeared to be a solid dense plastic, so I quickly found the
            distributor and then a store that sold the product, but unfortunately
            it's not suitable for printing. It's most common use is as a
            replacement for lumber to make decks, one side is smooth while the
            other side has a faux wood grain finish, however even the smooth side
            is covered with very fine pits. It appears as though it's a mixture
            of plastic and sawdust or some kind of filler to reduce costs, but it
            was worth a try!

            Brian


            --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Erik Desmyter"
            <erik.desmyter@...> wrote:
            >
            > Brian,
            >
            > I normally start with an end mill which works only in X & Y on a
            depth of
            > for example 5mm and this one takes away most material and does
            first the
            > rough work. In the last finishing step I use a 60 degree V-bits for
            all the
            > edges and fine details and this one goes three dimensional X, Y &
            Z because
            > you need the fragile sharp top of the V-bit to cut out the sharp
            edges and
            > small details. I use several softwares including signmaking
            software very
            > similar to ArtCam to finally come to a WinPC-NC file on which this
            > CNC-router runs.
            >
            > Buying large panels of new Corian is indeed a problem but some
            authorized
            > fabricators are selling their scrap on eBay at reduced prices and
            some less
            > popular colors can go really cheap. In Europe there are some
            companies where
            > you can order cut to size panels in all the different colors but
            this is
            > still expensive. Another possibility could be 1 ¼" thick PVC which
            is used
            > as a replacement for wood like this AZEK To Mill (ATM) which is
            made in
            > sheet sizes of 4 ft x 8 ft:
            > http://www.azek.com/viewProduct.php?id=12
            > I don't know this ATM material here in Europe and haven't tested it
            but it
            > looks interesting at first sight and is probably cheaper than
            Corian.
            >
            > Regards,
            > Erik
          • lamsland1@comcast.net
            Just had a wild thought, What about Delrin? Plastic metal substitute. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyoxymethylene check out the part about machining. It may
            Message 5 of 24 , May 9, 2008
            • 0 Attachment
              Just had a wild thought, What about Delrin? Plastic metal substitute.

              http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyoxymethylene

              check out the part about machining.

              It may be on the pricey side for large sheets though.



              -------------- Original message ----------------------
              From: "briannqueen" <BQueen@...>
              > Erik,
              > I was excited to see your post about this new material that was
              > thick enough to be planed down to type high. The website showed what
              > appeared to be a solid dense plastic, so I quickly found the
              > distributor and then a store that sold the product, but unfortunately
              > it's not suitable for printing. It's most common use is as a
              > replacement for lumber to make decks, one side is smooth while the
              > other side has a faux wood grain finish, however even the smooth side
              > is covered with very fine pits. It appears as though it's a mixture
              > of plastic and sawdust or some kind of filler to reduce costs, but it
              > was worth a try!
              >
              > Brian
              >
              >
              > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Erik Desmyter"
              > <erik.desmyter@...> wrote:
              > >
              > > Brian,
              > >
              > > I normally start with an end mill which works only in X & Y on a
              > depth of
              > > for example 5mm and this one takes away most material and does
              > first the
              > > rough work. In the last finishing step I use a 60 degree V-bits for
              > all the
              > > edges and fine details and this one goes three dimensional X, Y &
              > Z because
              > > you need the fragile sharp top of the V-bit to cut out the sharp
              > edges and
              > > small details. I use several softwares including signmaking
              > software very
              > > similar to ArtCam to finally come to a WinPC-NC file on which this
              > > CNC-router runs.
              > >
              > > Buying large panels of new Corian is indeed a problem but some
              > authorized
              > > fabricators are selling their scrap on eBay at reduced prices and
              > some less
              > > popular colors can go really cheap. In Europe there are some
              > companies where
              > > you can order cut to size panels in all the different colors but
              > this is
              > > still expensive. Another possibility could be 1 �" thick PVC which
              > is used
              > > as a replacement for wood like this AZEK To Mill (ATM) which is
              > made in
              > > sheet sizes of 4 ft x 8 ft:
              > > http://www.azek.com/viewProduct.php?id=12
              > > I don't know this ATM material here in Europe and haven't tested it
              > but it
              > > looks interesting at first sight and is probably cheaper than
              > Corian.
              > >
              > > Regards,
              > > Erik
              >
              >
              >
              >




              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.