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Re: Material to make large printing blocks

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  • Kim Vanderheiden
    Brian, It sounds like people have had some good suggestions for the wood, but if you re interested looking at other media as well, you might try linoleum. The
    Message 1 of 24 , Apr 29, 2008
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      Brian,

      It sounds like people have had some good suggestions for the wood,
      but if you're interested looking at other media as well, you might
      try linoleum. The San Francisco Center for the Book has done
      steamroller printing on linoleum for the past three years as a
      fundraiser. Many local artists have participated. I participated in
      elements of it for two years, carving 3ft x 3 ft blocks. See http://
      www.kimvanderheiden.com/Mixedmedia/bridge/bridge.html for my examples
      or http://www.sfcb.org/html/roadworks.html for event info.

      Kim



      From: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
      [mailto:PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of briannqueen
      Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 7:36 AM
      To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: [PPLetterpress] Material to make large printing blocks

      I own a CNC router (computer numerical control) which simply put is a
      router controlled by a computer. I plan on using my machine to make
      large wood blocks, as large as four feet by eight feet and smaller ones
      for my Vandercook SP15 press. We plan on printing the 4' x 8' prints
      using a steam roller at a public event. I'm looking for help in
      determining the best wood or printing surface for this purpose. I could
      use ordinary plywood of course, but it has a grain and leaves a burr.
      Can anyone recommend a plastic that may be suitable? Detail on the very
      largest blocks is less of a concern but I want fine detail on the
      smaller blocks. I'm aware of Resingrave which would be perfect except
      that it would be much too expensive for the size of quantity I will be
      using. I considered acrylic but it's kind of brittle and a pain to
      machine. I figure there must be some kind of polymer out there that
      will do the trick and not dissolve during cleanup. Any help would be
      appreciated!

      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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      Messages in this topic (9)
    • Erik Desmyter
      I have also been experimenting with a CNC-router to make large size blocks or plates to print from on on my traditional iron handpresses. I can say that this
      Message 2 of 24 , May 3, 2008
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        I have also been experimenting with a CNC-router to make large size blocks
        or plates to print from on on my traditional iron handpresses. I can say
        that this computer to plate technology has some potential & limitations and
        there are many variables & tolerances in tools, software, material & machine
        which make everything rather complex. The X, Y, Z axis feed speeds, the
        router speed, the flatness of the material (no bowing allowed), the angle &
        sharpness of the routing bits and the 3-dimensional software working from 3D
        vectors isn't easy in combination with the specifics of letterpress type &
        inking.

        I experimented with different materials and had the best results with
        expensive materials like Corian (acrylic stone) but working in wood is fun
        but challenging as every kind of wood has different characteristics. Routing
        speeds should be lower to avoid heating up or burning the wood but avoiding
        a burr or damaged edges isn't always easy because high routing speeds just
        give the best sharp edges. Similar story on the X, Y & Z speeds, when you go
        too fast quality goes down and when you go to slow the wood gets dark and
        starts to heat up. And making a large plate with slow speeds takes hours...
        I have just made a small movie and some photos on an experiment in beech,
        see links below.

        http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tk4QmaU4JIg

        http://www.flickr.com/photos/desmyter1856/sets/72157604867473339/

        For very large plates I guess a good quality MDF would be good but I haven't
        tested this yet. I am always interested in experiences from other folks
        working in this direction with CNC technology.

        Best regards,
        Erik Desmyter
        Gent, Belgium
        erik.desmyter@...

        ----- Original Message -----
        From: "briannqueen" <BQueen@...>
        To: <PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com>
        Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 3:35 PM
        Subject: [PPLetterpress] Material to make large printing blocks


        I own a CNC router (computer numerical control) which simply put is a
        router controlled by a computer. I plan on using my machine to make
        large wood blocks, as large as four feet by eight feet and smaller ones
        for my Vandercook SP15 press. We plan on printing the 4' x 8' prints
        using a steam roller at a public event. I'm looking for help in
        determining the best wood or printing surface for this purpose. I could
        use ordinary plywood of course, but it has a grain and leaves a burr.
        Can anyone recommend a plastic that may be suitable? Detail on the very
        largest blocks is less of a concern but I want fine detail on the
        smaller blocks. I'm aware of Resingrave which would be perfect except
        that it would be much too expensive for the size of quantity I will be
        using. I considered acrylic but it's kind of brittle and a pain to
        machine. I figure there must be some kind of polymer out there that
        will do the trick and not dissolve during cleanup. Any help would be
        appreciated!


        ------------------------------------

        Yahoo! Groups Links
      • Barbara Hauser
        Wow, Erik, I m impressed! I need to ask what I m sure will turn out to be a dumb question, though: if the block is to be used for printing, why is it
        Message 3 of 24 , May 3, 2008
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          Wow, Erik, I'm impressed! I need to ask what I'm sure will turn out to
          be a dumb question, though: if the block is to be used for printing,
          why is it right-reading?

          Thanks,
          Barbara


          --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Erik Desmyter"
          <erik.desmyter@...> wrote:

          I have also been experimenting with a CNC-router to make large size
          blocks or plates to print from on on my traditional iron handpresses.
          . . I have just made a small movie and some photos on an experiment in
          beech, see links below.

          http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tk4QmaU4JIg

          http://www.flickr.com/photos/desmyter1856/sets/72157604867473339/
        • victoria kniering
          Narbara -- I d say that may be problematic....unless he s using offset??? Oopsy, very neat machine though....would love to have one of those to play with.
          Message 4 of 24 , May 3, 2008
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            Narbara --
            I'd say that may be problematic....unless he's using offset???
            Oopsy,
            very neat machine though....would love to have one of those to play
            with.
            Victoria
            On May 3, 2008, at 8:50 PM, Barbara Hauser wrote:

            > Wow, Erik, I'm impressed! I need to ask what I'm sure will turn out to
            > be a dumb question, though: if the block is to be used for printing,
            > why is it right-reading?
            >
            > Thanks,
            > Barbara
            >
            > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Erik Desmyter"
            > <erik.desmyter@...> wrote:
            >
            > I have also been experimenting with a CNC-router to make large size
            > blocks or plates to print from on on my traditional iron handpresses.
            > . . I have just made a small movie and some photos on an experiment in
            > beech, see links below.
            >
            > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tk4QmaU4JIg
            >
            > http://www.flickr.com/photos/desmyter1856/sets/72157604867473339/
            >
            >
            >



            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • Erik Desmyter
            Barbara, The answer is that this block in beech-wood was only a test on speeds, etc... to learn what the possibilities and limitations are of the beech-wood
            Message 5 of 24 , May 4, 2008
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              Barbara,

              The answer is that this block in beech-wood was only a test on speeds,
              etc... to learn what the possibilities and limitations are of the beech-wood
              and to check the design and translation of every letter through the
              3-dimensional CNC software and how every letter survives the routing.

              Regards,
              Erik

              ----- Original Message -----
              From: "Barbara Hauser" <BarbHauser@...>
              To: <PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com>
              Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2008 2:50 AM
              Subject: [PPLetterpress] Re: Material to make large printing blocks


              Wow, Erik, I'm impressed! I need to ask what I'm sure will turn out to
              be a dumb question, though: if the block is to be used for printing,
              why is it right-reading?

              Thanks,
              Barbara


              --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Erik Desmyter"
              <erik.desmyter@...> wrote:

              I have also been experimenting with a CNC-router to make large size
              blocks or plates to print from on on my traditional iron handpresses.
              . . I have just made a small movie and some photos on an experiment in
              beech, see links below.

              http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tk4QmaU4JIg

              http://www.flickr.com/photos/desmyter1856/sets/72157604867473339/



              ------------------------------------

              Yahoo! Groups Links
            • briannqueen
              Erik, Thank you for posting that video. Do you use the v-bit for all your cutting or do you start with end mills? Also what programs are you using? I have a
              Message 6 of 24 , May 4, 2008
              • 0 Attachment
                Erik,
                Thank you for posting that video. Do you use the v-bit for all
                your cutting or do you start with end mills? Also what programs are
                you using? I have a friend that makes brass dies for foil printing
                and he uses ArtCAM. I've watched him program images and text a number
                of times and it seemed fairly simple. The cost of ArtCAM of course is
                a problem.
                I just acquired a piece of Corian after hearing from another
                artist that it prints well. Other than its cost it seems to be the
                perfect candidate since it's designed to be machinable. Here in North
                America it's only sold to authorized fabricators who don't normally
                sell it in sheet form. A laminate of 6mm Corian and MDF planed to
                type high could be the perfect match combined with CNC technology, no
                variation in qualities or grain to worry about. I see on Wikipedia
                that Corian has several competitors, who I'm guessing may be cheaper.
                I'm also experimenting with 3mm white styrene sheet laminated to MDF
                which is considerably less expensive.
                Keep us posted on your progress and thank you for the pictures and
                video, they have inspired me!

                Brian

                --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Erik Desmyter"
                <erik.desmyter@...> wrote:
                >
                > I have also been experimenting with a CNC-router to make large size
                blocks
                > or plates to print from on on my traditional iron handpresses. I
                can say
                > that this computer to plate technology has some potential &
                limitations and
                > there are many variables & tolerances in tools, software, material
                & machine
                > which make everything rather complex. The X, Y, Z axis feed speeds,
                the
                > router speed, the flatness of the material (no bowing allowed), the
                angle &
                > sharpness of the routing bits and the 3-dimensional software
                working from 3D
                > vectors isn't easy in combination with the specifics of letterpress
                type &
                > inking.
                >
                > I experimented with different materials and had the best results
                with
                > expensive materials like Corian (acrylic stone) but working in wood
                is fun
                > but challenging as every kind of wood has different
                characteristics. Routing
                > speeds should be lower to avoid heating up or burning the wood but
                avoiding
                > a burr or damaged edges isn't always easy because high routing
                speeds just
                > give the best sharp edges. Similar story on the X, Y & Z speeds,
                when you go
                > too fast quality goes down and when you go to slow the wood gets
                dark and
                > starts to heat up. And making a large plate with slow speeds takes
                hours...
                > I have just made a small movie and some photos on an experiment in
                beech,
                > see links below.
                >
                > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tk4QmaU4JIg
                >
                > http://www.flickr.com/photos/desmyter1856/sets/72157604867473339/
                >
                > For very large plates I guess a good quality MDF would be good but
                I haven't
                > tested this yet. I am always interested in experiences from other
                folks
                > working in this direction with CNC technology.
                >
                > Best regards,
                > Erik Desmyter
                > Gent, Belgium
                > erik.desmyter@...
              • Lisa Davidson
                I can t believe all these printers using steamrollers! When did that start happening? Lisa ... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                Message 7 of 24 , May 4, 2008
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                  I can't believe all these printers using steamrollers! When did that
                  start happening?

                  Lisa


                  On May 4, 2008, at 9:20 AM, briannqueen wrote:

                  > Erik,
                  > Thank you for posting that video. Do you use the v-bit for all
                  > your cutting or do you start with end mills? Also what programs are
                  > you using? I have a friend that makes brass dies for foil printing
                  > and he uses ArtCAM. I've watched him program images and text a number
                  > of times and it seemed fairly simple. The cost of ArtCAM of course is
                  > a problem.
                  > I just acquired a piece of Corian after hearing from another
                  > artist that it prints well. Other than its cost it seems to be the
                  > perfect candidate since it's designed to be machinable. Here in North
                  > America it's only sold to authorized fabricators who don't normally
                  > sell it in sheet form. A laminate of 6mm Corian and MDF planed to
                  > type high could be the perfect match combined with CNC technology, no
                  > variation in qualities or grain to worry about. I see on Wikipedia
                  > that Corian has several competitors, who I'm guessing may be cheaper.
                  > I'm also experimenting with 3mm white styrene sheet laminated to MDF
                  > which is considerably less expensive.
                  > Keep us posted on your progress and thank you for the pictures and
                  > video, they have inspired me!
                  >
                  > Brian
                  >
                  > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Erik Desmyter"
                  > <erik.desmyter@...> wrote:
                  > >
                  > > I have also been experimenting with a CNC-router to make large size
                  > blocks
                  > > or plates to print from on on my traditional iron handpresses. I
                  > can say
                  > > that this computer to plate technology has some potential &
                  > limitations and
                  > > there are many variables & tolerances in tools, software, material
                  > & machine
                  > > which make everything rather complex. The X, Y, Z axis feed speeds,
                  > the
                  > > router speed, the flatness of the material (no bowing allowed), the
                  > angle &
                  > > sharpness of the routing bits and the 3-dimensional software
                  > working from 3D
                  > > vectors isn't easy in combination with the specifics of letterpress
                  > type &
                  > > inking.
                  > >
                  > > I experimented with different materials and had the best results
                  > with
                  > > expensive materials like Corian (acrylic stone) but working in wood
                  > is fun
                  > > but challenging as every kind of wood has different
                  > characteristics. Routing
                  > > speeds should be lower to avoid heating up or burning the wood but
                  > avoiding
                  > > a burr or damaged edges isn't always easy because high routing
                  > speeds just
                  > > give the best sharp edges. Similar story on the X, Y & Z speeds,
                  > when you go
                  > > too fast quality goes down and when you go to slow the wood gets
                  > dark and
                  > > starts to heat up. And making a large plate with slow speeds takes
                  > hours...
                  > > I have just made a small movie and some photos on an experiment in
                  > beech,
                  > > see links below.
                  > >
                  > >http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tk4QmaU4JIg
                  > >
                  > >http://www.flickr.com/photos/desmyter1856/sets/72157604867473339/
                  > >
                  > > For very large plates I guess a good quality MDF would be good but
                  > I haven't
                  > > tested this yet. I am always interested in experiences from other
                  > folks
                  > > working in this direction with CNC technology.
                  > >
                  > > Best regards,
                  > > Erik Desmyter
                  > > Gent, Belgium
                  > > erik.desmyter@...
                  >
                  >
                  >



                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                • Erik Desmyter
                  Brian, I normally start with an end mill which works only in X & Y on a depth of for example 5mm and this one takes away most material and does first the rough
                  Message 8 of 24 , May 4, 2008
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                    Brian,

                    I normally start with an end mill which works only in X & Y on a depth of
                    for example 5mm and this one takes away most material and does first the
                    rough work. In the last finishing step I use a 60 degree V-bits for all the
                    edges and fine details and this one goes three dimensional X, Y & Z because
                    you need the fragile sharp top of the V-bit to cut out the sharp edges and
                    small details. I use several softwares including signmaking software very
                    similar to ArtCam to finally come to a WinPC-NC file on which this
                    CNC-router runs.

                    Buying large panels of new Corian is indeed a problem but some authorized
                    fabricators are selling their scrap on eBay at reduced prices and some less
                    popular colors can go really cheap. In Europe there are some companies where
                    you can order cut to size panels in all the different colors but this is
                    still expensive. Another possibility could be 1 ¼" thick PVC which is used
                    as a replacement for wood like this AZEK To Mill (ATM) which is made in
                    sheet sizes of 4 ft x 8 ft:
                    http://www.azek.com/viewProduct.php?id=12
                    I don't know this ATM material here in Europe and haven't tested it but it
                    looks interesting at first sight and is probably cheaper than Corian.

                    Regards,
                    Erik

                    ----- Original Message -----
                    From: "briannqueen" <BQueen@...>
                    To: <PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com>
                    Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2008 6:20 PM
                    Subject: [PPLetterpress] Re: Material to make large printing blocks


                    Erik,
                    Thank you for posting that video. Do you use the v-bit for all
                    your cutting or do you start with end mills? Also what programs are
                    you using? I have a friend that makes brass dies for foil printing
                    and he uses ArtCAM. I've watched him program images and text a number
                    of times and it seemed fairly simple. The cost of ArtCAM of course is
                    a problem.
                    I just acquired a piece of Corian after hearing from another
                    artist that it prints well. Other than its cost it seems to be the
                    perfect candidate since it's designed to be machinable. Here in North
                    America it's only sold to authorized fabricators who don't normally
                    sell it in sheet form. A laminate of 6mm Corian and MDF planed to
                    type high could be the perfect match combined with CNC technology, no
                    variation in qualities or grain to worry about. I see on Wikipedia
                    that Corian has several competitors, who I'm guessing may be cheaper.
                    I'm also experimenting with 3mm white styrene sheet laminated to MDF
                    which is considerably less expensive.
                    Keep us posted on your progress and thank you for the pictures and
                    video, they have inspired me!

                    Brian
                  • Joe Freedman
                    I ve used a program called V-Carve to cut wood on a CNC. Its a great program: easy to use and pretty inexpensive. I can import eps files made on a mac and
                    Message 9 of 24 , May 4, 2008
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                      I've used a program called V-Carve to cut wood on a CNC. Its a great
                      program: easy to use and pretty inexpensive. I can import eps files
                      made on a mac and easily set the parameters in V-Carve. It drives my
                      little Roland engraver directly with no post processor or dxf
                      conversion.

                      Website is http://www.vectric.com/

                      I still haven't committed it for use on any projects but it seems to
                      do a really nice job.

                      Joe
                    • Lamsland
                      I ve been looking into CO2 laser engraving systems. Looks to be a great solution. You could make wood or metal plates. Very precise, lots of control and
                      Message 10 of 24 , May 5, 2008
                      • 0 Attachment
                        I've been looking into CO2 laser engraving systems. Looks to be a
                        great solution. You could make wood or metal plates. Very precise,
                        lots of control and horribly expensive. The company that makes an
                        affordable smaller laser engraver will have a whole market to
                        themselves I think.


                        Matthew "LAMMY" Lamoureux
                        Full Metal Press - Operis servo a specialis nundinae

                        On May 3, 2008, at 6:33 PM, Erik Desmyter wrote:

                        > I have also been experimenting with a CNC-router to make large size
                        > blocks
                        > or plates to print from on on my traditional iron handpresses. I
                        > can say
                        > that this computer to plate technology has some potential &
                        > limitations and
                        > there are many variables & tolerances in tools, software, material
                        > & machine
                        > which make everything rather complex. The X, Y, Z axis feed speeds,
                        > the
                        > router speed, the flatness of the material (no bowing allowed), the
                        > angle &
                        > sharpness of the routing bits and the 3-dimensional software
                        > working from 3D
                        > vectors isn't easy in combination with the specifics of letterpress
                        > type &
                        > inking.
                        >
                        > I experimented with different materials and had the best results with
                        > expensive materials like Corian (acrylic stone) but working in wood
                        > is fun
                        > but challenging as every kind of wood has different
                        > characteristics. Routing
                        > speeds should be lower to avoid heating up or burning the wood but
                        > avoiding
                        > a burr or damaged edges isn't always easy because high routing
                        > speeds just
                        > give the best sharp edges. Similar story on the X, Y & Z speeds,
                        > when you go
                        > too fast quality goes down and when you go to slow the wood gets
                        > dark and
                        > starts to heat up. And making a large plate with slow speeds takes
                        > hours...
                        > I have just made a small movie and some photos on an experiment in
                        > beech,
                        > see links below.
                        >
                        > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tk4QmaU4JIg
                        >
                        > http://www.flickr.com/photos/desmyter1856/sets/72157604867473339/
                        >
                        > For very large plates I guess a good quality MDF would be good but
                        > I haven't
                        > tested this yet. I am always interested in experiences from other
                        > folks
                        > working in this direction with CNC technology.
                        >
                        > Best regards,
                        > Erik Desmyter
                        > Gent, Belgium
                        > erik.desmyter@...
                        >
                        > ----- Original Message -----
                        > From: "briannqueen" <BQueen@...>
                        > To: <PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com>
                        > Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 3:35 PM
                        > Subject: [PPLetterpress] Material to make large printing blocks
                        >
                        > I own a CNC router (computer numerical control) which simply put is a
                        > router controlled by a computer. I plan on using my machine to make
                        > large wood blocks, as large as four feet by eight feet and smaller
                        > ones
                        > for my Vandercook SP15 press. We plan on printing the 4' x 8' prints
                        > using a steam roller at a public event. I'm looking for help in
                        > determining the best wood or printing surface for this purpose. I
                        > could
                        > use ordinary plywood of course, but it has a grain and leaves a burr.
                        > Can anyone recommend a plastic that may be suitable? Detail on the
                        > very
                        > largest blocks is less of a concern but I want fine detail on the
                        > smaller blocks. I'm aware of Resingrave which would be perfect except
                        > that it would be much too expensive for the size of quantity I will be
                        > using. I considered acrylic but it's kind of brittle and a pain to
                        > machine. I figure there must be some kind of polymer out there that
                        > will do the trick and not dissolve during cleanup. Any help would be
                        > appreciated!
                        >
                        > ------------------------------------
                        >
                        > Yahoo! Groups Links
                        >
                        >



                        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                      • briannqueen
                        Erik, I was excited to see your post about this new material that was thick enough to be planed down to type high. The website showed what appeared to be a
                        Message 11 of 24 , May 8, 2008
                        • 0 Attachment
                          Erik,
                          I was excited to see your post about this new material that was
                          thick enough to be planed down to type high. The website showed what
                          appeared to be a solid dense plastic, so I quickly found the
                          distributor and then a store that sold the product, but unfortunately
                          it's not suitable for printing. It's most common use is as a
                          replacement for lumber to make decks, one side is smooth while the
                          other side has a faux wood grain finish, however even the smooth side
                          is covered with very fine pits. It appears as though it's a mixture
                          of plastic and sawdust or some kind of filler to reduce costs, but it
                          was worth a try!

                          Brian


                          --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Erik Desmyter"
                          <erik.desmyter@...> wrote:
                          >
                          > Brian,
                          >
                          > I normally start with an end mill which works only in X & Y on a
                          depth of
                          > for example 5mm and this one takes away most material and does
                          first the
                          > rough work. In the last finishing step I use a 60 degree V-bits for
                          all the
                          > edges and fine details and this one goes three dimensional X, Y &
                          Z because
                          > you need the fragile sharp top of the V-bit to cut out the sharp
                          edges and
                          > small details. I use several softwares including signmaking
                          software very
                          > similar to ArtCam to finally come to a WinPC-NC file on which this
                          > CNC-router runs.
                          >
                          > Buying large panels of new Corian is indeed a problem but some
                          authorized
                          > fabricators are selling their scrap on eBay at reduced prices and
                          some less
                          > popular colors can go really cheap. In Europe there are some
                          companies where
                          > you can order cut to size panels in all the different colors but
                          this is
                          > still expensive. Another possibility could be 1 ¼" thick PVC which
                          is used
                          > as a replacement for wood like this AZEK To Mill (ATM) which is
                          made in
                          > sheet sizes of 4 ft x 8 ft:
                          > http://www.azek.com/viewProduct.php?id=12
                          > I don't know this ATM material here in Europe and haven't tested it
                          but it
                          > looks interesting at first sight and is probably cheaper than
                          Corian.
                          >
                          > Regards,
                          > Erik
                        • lamsland1@comcast.net
                          Just had a wild thought, What about Delrin? Plastic metal substitute. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyoxymethylene check out the part about machining. It may
                          Message 12 of 24 , May 9, 2008
                          • 0 Attachment
                            Just had a wild thought, What about Delrin? Plastic metal substitute.

                            http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyoxymethylene

                            check out the part about machining.

                            It may be on the pricey side for large sheets though.



                            -------------- Original message ----------------------
                            From: "briannqueen" <BQueen@...>
                            > Erik,
                            > I was excited to see your post about this new material that was
                            > thick enough to be planed down to type high. The website showed what
                            > appeared to be a solid dense plastic, so I quickly found the
                            > distributor and then a store that sold the product, but unfortunately
                            > it's not suitable for printing. It's most common use is as a
                            > replacement for lumber to make decks, one side is smooth while the
                            > other side has a faux wood grain finish, however even the smooth side
                            > is covered with very fine pits. It appears as though it's a mixture
                            > of plastic and sawdust or some kind of filler to reduce costs, but it
                            > was worth a try!
                            >
                            > Brian
                            >
                            >
                            > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Erik Desmyter"
                            > <erik.desmyter@...> wrote:
                            > >
                            > > Brian,
                            > >
                            > > I normally start with an end mill which works only in X & Y on a
                            > depth of
                            > > for example 5mm and this one takes away most material and does
                            > first the
                            > > rough work. In the last finishing step I use a 60 degree V-bits for
                            > all the
                            > > edges and fine details and this one goes three dimensional X, Y &
                            > Z because
                            > > you need the fragile sharp top of the V-bit to cut out the sharp
                            > edges and
                            > > small details. I use several softwares including signmaking
                            > software very
                            > > similar to ArtCam to finally come to a WinPC-NC file on which this
                            > > CNC-router runs.
                            > >
                            > > Buying large panels of new Corian is indeed a problem but some
                            > authorized
                            > > fabricators are selling their scrap on eBay at reduced prices and
                            > some less
                            > > popular colors can go really cheap. In Europe there are some
                            > companies where
                            > > you can order cut to size panels in all the different colors but
                            > this is
                            > > still expensive. Another possibility could be 1 �" thick PVC which
                            > is used
                            > > as a replacement for wood like this AZEK To Mill (ATM) which is
                            > made in
                            > > sheet sizes of 4 ft x 8 ft:
                            > > http://www.azek.com/viewProduct.php?id=12
                            > > I don't know this ATM material here in Europe and haven't tested it
                            > but it
                            > > looks interesting at first sight and is probably cheaper than
                            > Corian.
                            > >
                            > > Regards,
                            > > Erik
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            >




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