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Material to make large printing blocks

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  • briannqueen
    I own a CNC router (computer numerical control) which simply put is a router controlled by a computer. I plan on using my machine to make large wood blocks, as
    Message 1 of 24 , Apr 28, 2008
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      I own a CNC router (computer numerical control) which simply put is a
      router controlled by a computer. I plan on using my machine to make
      large wood blocks, as large as four feet by eight feet and smaller ones
      for my Vandercook SP15 press. We plan on printing the 4' x 8' prints
      using a steam roller at a public event. I'm looking for help in
      determining the best wood or printing surface for this purpose. I could
      use ordinary plywood of course, but it has a grain and leaves a burr.
      Can anyone recommend a plastic that may be suitable? Detail on the very
      largest blocks is less of a concern but I want fine detail on the
      smaller blocks. I'm aware of Resingrave which would be perfect except
      that it would be much too expensive for the size of quantity I will be
      using. I considered acrylic but it's kind of brittle and a pain to
      machine. I figure there must be some kind of polymer out there that
      will do the trick and not dissolve during cleanup. Any help would be
      appreciated!
    • Russ Wiecking - Wood and Metal Craft
      Birch cabinet plywood shows almost no grain but may leave a slight fuzz at the edge of the cut. I doubt there would be a plastic at comparable cost. Russ
      Message 2 of 24 , Apr 28, 2008
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        Birch cabinet plywood shows almost no grain but may leave a slight
        fuzz at the edge of the cut. I doubt there would be a plastic at
        comparable cost.

        Russ


        On Apr 28, 2008, at 6:35 AM, briannqueen wrote:

        > I own a CNC router (computer numerical control) which simply put is a
        > router controlled by a computer. I plan on using my machine to make
        > large wood blocks, as large as four feet by eight feet and smaller
        > ones
        > for my Vandercook SP15 press. We plan on printing the 4' x 8' prints
        > using a steam roller at a public event. I'm looking for help in
        > determining the best wood or printing surface for this purpose. I
        > could
        > use ordinary plywood of course, but it has a grain and leaves a burr.
        > Can anyone recommend a plastic that may be suitable? Detail on the
        > very
        > largest blocks is less of a concern but I want fine detail on the
        > smaller blocks. I'm aware of Resingrave which would be perfect except
        > that it would be much too expensive for the size of quantity I will be
        > using. I considered acrylic but it's kind of brittle and a pain to
        > machine. I figure there must be some kind of polymer out there that
        > will do the trick and not dissolve during cleanup. Any help would be
        > appreciated!
        >
        >
        >
      • Lamsland
        What about MDF? Matthew LAMMY Lamoureux Full Metal Press - Operis servo a specialis nundinae On Apr 28, 2008, at 12:01 PM, Russ Wiecking - Wood and Metal
        Message 3 of 24 , Apr 28, 2008
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          What about MDF?


          Matthew "LAMMY" Lamoureux
          Full Metal Press - Operis servo a specialis nundinae

          On Apr 28, 2008, at 12:01 PM, Russ Wiecking - Wood and Metal Craft
          wrote:

          > Birch cabinet plywood shows almost no grain but may leave a slight
          > fuzz at the edge of the cut. I doubt there would be a plastic at
          > comparable cost.
          >
          > Russ
          >
          > On Apr 28, 2008, at 6:35 AM, briannqueen wrote:
          >
          > > I own a CNC router (computer numerical control) which simply put
          > is a
          > > router controlled by a computer. I plan on using my machine to make
          > > large wood blocks, as large as four feet by eight feet and smaller
          > > ones
          > > for my Vandercook SP15 press. We plan on printing the 4' x 8' prints
          > > using a steam roller at a public event. I'm looking for help in
          > > determining the best wood or printing surface for this purpose. I
          > > could
          > > use ordinary plywood of course, but it has a grain and leaves a
          > burr.
          > > Can anyone recommend a plastic that may be suitable? Detail on the
          > > very
          > > largest blocks is less of a concern but I want fine detail on the
          > > smaller blocks. I'm aware of Resingrave which would be perfect
          > except
          > > that it would be much too expensive for the size of quantity I
          > will be
          > > using. I considered acrylic but it's kind of brittle and a pain to
          > > machine. I figure there must be some kind of polymer out there that
          > > will do the trick and not dissolve during cleanup. Any help would be
          > > appreciated!
          > >
          > >
          > >
          >
          >
          >



          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • nagraph1
          Look into using painter s sign board, a special plywood with a smooth surface designed for making signs, in 4x8 sheets. MDF board would break up under a steam
          Message 4 of 24 , Apr 28, 2008
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            Look into using painter's sign board, a special plywood with a smooth
            surface designed for making signs, in 4x8' sheets. MDF board would
            break up under a steam roller, and I would think the painter's
            plywood wouldn't do that. Any knowledgable lumber yard can get this
            material if they don't stock it. Our 2-bit lumber yard here in
            Silverton supplies it to us for use in historic restoration projects.

            Fritz

            --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, Lamsland <lamsland1@...> wrote:
            >
            > What about MDF?
            >
            >
            > Matthew "LAMMY" Lamoureux
            > Full Metal Press - Operis servo a specialis nundinae
            >
            > On Apr 28, 2008, at 12:01 PM, Russ Wiecking - Wood and Metal Craft
            > wrote:
            >
            > > Birch cabinet plywood shows almost no grain but may leave a slight
            > > fuzz at the edge of the cut. I doubt there would be a plastic at
            > > comparable cost.
            > >
            > > Russ
            > >
            > > On Apr 28, 2008, at 6:35 AM, briannqueen wrote:
            > >
            > > > I own a CNC router (computer numerical control) which simply
            put
            > > is a
            > > > router controlled by a computer. I plan on using my machine to
            make
            > > > large wood blocks, as large as four feet by eight feet and
            smaller
            > > > ones
            > > > for my Vandercook SP15 press. We plan on printing the 4' x 8'
            prints
            > > > using a steam roller at a public event. I'm looking for help in
            > > > determining the best wood or printing surface for this purpose.
            I
            > > > could
            > > > use ordinary plywood of course, but it has a grain and leaves
            a
            > > burr.
            > > > Can anyone recommend a plastic that may be suitable? Detail on
            the
            > > > very
            > > > largest blocks is less of a concern but I want fine detail on
            the
            > > > smaller blocks. I'm aware of Resingrave which would be perfect
            > > except
            > > > that it would be much too expensive for the size of quantity I
            > > will be
            > > > using. I considered acrylic but it's kind of brittle and a pain
            to
            > > > machine. I figure there must be some kind of polymer out there
            that
            > > > will do the trick and not dissolve during cleanup. Any help
            would be
            > > > appreciated!
            > > >
            > > >
            > > >
            > >
            > >
            > >
            >
            >
            >
            > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            >
          • Jessica Spring
            We did some steamroller printing here in Tacoma this March. One participant used a hand-held router on birch plywood and the results were pretty good, even
            Message 5 of 24 , Apr 28, 2008
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              We did some steamroller printing here in Tacoma this March. One participant
              used a hand-held router on birch plywood and the results were pretty good,
              even better when done again later on an etching press. Any burrs were not
              noticeable--the plywood really needed a lot of ink coverage. We had more
              complications with road grit that ended up under some prints.

              --Jessica


              >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
              Jessica Spring
              SPRINGTIDE PRESS
              http://www.springtidepress.com
              253.627.8629
              >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


              > From: "nagraph1" <nagraph@...>
              > Reply-To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
              > Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 16:35:29 -0000
              > To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
              > Subject: [PPLetterpress] Re: Material to make large printing blocks
              >
              > Look into using painter's sign board, a special plywood with a smooth
              > surface designed for making signs, in 4x8' sheets. MDF board would
              > break up under a steam roller, and I would think the painter's
              > plywood wouldn't do that. Any knowledgable lumber yard can get this
              > material if they don't stock it. Our 2-bit lumber yard here in
              > Silverton supplies it to us for use in historic restoration projects.
              >
              > Fritz
              >
              > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, Lamsland <lamsland1@...> wrote:
              >>
              >> What about MDF?
              >>
              >>
              >> Matthew "LAMMY" Lamoureux
              >> Full Metal Press - Operis servo a specialis nundinae
              >>
              >> On Apr 28, 2008, at 12:01 PM, Russ Wiecking - Wood and Metal Craft
              >> wrote:
              >>
              >>> Birch cabinet plywood shows almost no grain but may leave a slight
              >>> fuzz at the edge of the cut. I doubt there would be a plastic at
              >>> comparable cost.
              >>>
              >>> Russ
              >>>
              >>> On Apr 28, 2008, at 6:35 AM, briannqueen wrote:
              >>>
              >>>> I own a CNC router (computer numerical control) which simply
              > put
              >>> is a
              >>>> router controlled by a computer. I plan on using my machine to
              > make
              >>>> large wood blocks, as large as four feet by eight feet and
              > smaller
              >>>> ones
              >>>> for my Vandercook SP15 press. We plan on printing the 4' x 8'
              > prints
              >>>> using a steam roller at a public event. I'm looking for help in
              >>>> determining the best wood or printing surface for this purpose.
              > I
              >>>> could
              >>>> use ordinary plywood of course, but it has a grain and leaves
              > a
              >>> burr.
              >>>> Can anyone recommend a plastic that may be suitable? Detail on
              > the
              >>>> very
              >>>> largest blocks is less of a concern but I want fine detail on
              > the
              >>>> smaller blocks. I'm aware of Resingrave which would be perfect
              >>> except
              >>>> that it would be much too expensive for the size of quantity I
              >>> will be
              >>>> using. I considered acrylic but it's kind of brittle and a pain
              > to
              >>>> machine. I figure there must be some kind of polymer out there
              > that
              >>>> will do the trick and not dissolve during cleanup. Any help
              > would be
              >>>> appreciated!
              >>>>
              >>>>
              >>>>
              >>>
              >>>
              >>>
              >>
              >>
              >>
              >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              >>
              >
              >
              >
              > ------------------------------------
              >
              > Yahoo! Groups Links
              >
              >
              >
            • Graham and Kathy
              When trying this, it might be an idea to seal the wood first, unless it has a very tight grain. Graham Moss Incline Press 36 Bow Street Oldham OL1 1SJ England
              Message 6 of 24 , Apr 28, 2008
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                When trying this, it might be an idea to seal the wood first, unless it has
                a very tight grain.


                Graham Moss
                Incline Press
                36 Bow Street
                Oldham OL1 1SJ England
                http://www.inclinepress.com




                On 28/4/08 17:55, "Jessica Spring" <springtide@...> wrote:

                > We did some steamroller printing here in Tacoma this March. One participant
                > used a hand-held router on birch plywood and the results were pretty good,
                > even better when done again later on an etching press. Any burrs were not
                > noticeable--the plywood really needed a lot of ink coverage. We had more
                > complications with road grit that ended up under some prints.
                >
                > --Jessica
              • Claire Taylor
                People often use sintra as an alternative to wood for block prints. It s a kind of plastic, that I believe signs are made of. It s quite cheap. It is somewhat
                Message 7 of 24 , Apr 28, 2008
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                  People often use sintra as an alternative to wood for block prints. It's
                  a kind of plastic, that I believe signs are made of. It's quite cheap.
                  It is somewhat brittle, though.


                  Claire Taylor
                  Studio Assistant
                  Book Arts Program and Red Butte Press
                  J. Willard Marriott Library
                  295 South 1500 East
                  Salt Lake City, UT 84112
                  www.bookartsprogram.com
                  801.585.9191



                  ________________________________

                  From: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                  [mailto:PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of briannqueen
                  Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 7:36 AM
                  To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                  Subject: [PPLetterpress] Material to make large printing blocks



                  I own a CNC router (computer numerical control) which simply put is a
                  router controlled by a computer. I plan on using my machine to make
                  large wood blocks, as large as four feet by eight feet and smaller ones
                  for my Vandercook SP15 press. We plan on printing the 4' x 8' prints
                  using a steam roller at a public event. I'm looking for help in
                  determining the best wood or printing surface for this purpose. I could
                  use ordinary plywood of course, but it has a grain and leaves a burr.
                  Can anyone recommend a plastic that may be suitable? Detail on the very
                  largest blocks is less of a concern but I want fine detail on the
                  smaller blocks. I'm aware of Resingrave which would be perfect except
                  that it would be much too expensive for the size of quantity I will be
                  using. I considered acrylic but it's kind of brittle and a pain to
                  machine. I figure there must be some kind of polymer out there that
                  will do the trick and not dissolve during cleanup. Any help would be
                  appreciated!






                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                • victoria kniering
                  i use birch faced plywood, the thickness closest to type high..and just add a few litho plates to bring it up to type high.. it has a really nice
                  Message 8 of 24 , Apr 28, 2008
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                    i use birch faced plywood, the thickness closest to type high..and
                    just add a few litho plates
                    to bring it up to type high.. it has a really nice surface--tight
                    grain. and the plywood
                    can take the pressure w/o a problem. there is a plastic sheeting out
                    there made from silicone
                    that i've used but i think the "steam roller" may squish the cuts +
                    you would have to mount it on
                    something to get type high
                    victoria.


                    On Apr 28, 2008, at 9:35 AM, briannqueen wrote:

                    > I own a CNC router (computer numerical control) which simply put is a
                    > router controlled by a computer. I plan on using my machine to make
                    > large wood blocks, as large as four feet by eight feet and smaller
                    > ones
                    > for my Vandercook SP15 press. We plan on printing the 4' x 8' prints
                    > using a steam roller at a public event. I'm looking for help in
                    > determining the best wood or printing surface for this purpose. I
                    > could
                    > use ordinary plywood of course, but it has a grain and leaves a burr.
                    > Can anyone recommend a plastic that may be suitable? Detail on the
                    > very
                    > largest blocks is less of a concern but I want fine detail on the
                    > smaller blocks. I'm aware of Resingrave which would be perfect except
                    > that it would be much too expensive for the size of quantity I will be
                    > using. I considered acrylic but it's kind of brittle and a pain to
                    > machine. I figure there must be some kind of polymer out there that
                    > will do the trick and not dissolve during cleanup. Any help would be
                    > appreciated!
                    >
                    >
                    >



                    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  • victoria kniering
                    if you shellac the birch faced plywood first (light application) it will help w/the ink being sucked up by the board. victoria ... [Non-text portions of this
                    Message 9 of 24 , Apr 28, 2008
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                      if you shellac the birch faced plywood first (light application) it
                      will help w/the ink
                      being sucked up by the board.
                      victoria
                      On Apr 28, 2008, at 12:55 PM, Jessica Spring wrote:

                      > We did some steamroller printing here in Tacoma this March. One
                      > participant
                      > used a hand-held router on birch plywood and the results were
                      > pretty good,
                      > even better when done again later on an etching press. Any burrs
                      > were not
                      > noticeable--the plywood really needed a lot of ink coverage. We had
                      > more
                      > complications with road grit that ended up under some prints.
                      >
                      > --Jessica
                      >
                      > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
                      > Jessica Spring
                      > SPRINGTIDE PRESS
                      > http://www.springtidepress.com
                      > 253.627.8629
                      > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
                      >
                      > > From: "nagraph1" <nagraph@...>
                      > > Reply-To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                      > > Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 16:35:29 -0000
                      > > To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                      > > Subject: [PPLetterpress] Re: Material to make large printing blocks
                      > >
                      > > Look into using painter's sign board, a special plywood with a
                      > smooth
                      > > surface designed for making signs, in 4x8' sheets. MDF board would
                      > > break up under a steam roller, and I would think the painter's
                      > > plywood wouldn't do that. Any knowledgable lumber yard can get this
                      > > material if they don't stock it. Our 2-bit lumber yard here in
                      > > Silverton supplies it to us for use in historic restoration
                      > projects.
                      > >
                      > > Fritz
                      > >
                      > > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, Lamsland <lamsland1@...>
                      > wrote:
                      > >>
                      > >> What about MDF?
                      > >>
                      > >>
                      > >> Matthew "LAMMY" Lamoureux
                      > >> Full Metal Press - Operis servo a specialis nundinae
                      > >>
                      > >> On Apr 28, 2008, at 12:01 PM, Russ Wiecking - Wood and Metal Craft
                      > >> wrote:
                      > >>
                      > >>> Birch cabinet plywood shows almost no grain but may leave a slight
                      > >>> fuzz at the edge of the cut. I doubt there would be a plastic at
                      > >>> comparable cost.
                      > >>>
                      > >>> Russ
                      > >>>
                      > >>> On Apr 28, 2008, at 6:35 AM, briannqueen wrote:
                      > >>>
                      > >>>> I own a CNC router (computer numerical control) which simply
                      > > put
                      > >>> is a
                      > >>>> router controlled by a computer. I plan on using my machine to
                      > > make
                      > >>>> large wood blocks, as large as four feet by eight feet and
                      > > smaller
                      > >>>> ones
                      > >>>> for my Vandercook SP15 press. We plan on printing the 4' x 8'
                      > > prints
                      > >>>> using a steam roller at a public event. I'm looking for help in
                      > >>>> determining the best wood or printing surface for this purpose.
                      > > I
                      > >>>> could
                      > >>>> use ordinary plywood of course, but it has a grain and leaves
                      > > a
                      > >>> burr.
                      > >>>> Can anyone recommend a plastic that may be suitable? Detail on
                      > > the
                      > >>>> very
                      > >>>> largest blocks is less of a concern but I want fine detail on
                      > > the
                      > >>>> smaller blocks. I'm aware of Resingrave which would be perfect
                      > >>> except
                      > >>>> that it would be much too expensive for the size of quantity I
                      > >>> will be
                      > >>>> using. I considered acrylic but it's kind of brittle and a pain
                      > > to
                      > >>>> machine. I figure there must be some kind of polymer out there
                      > > that
                      > >>>> will do the trick and not dissolve during cleanup. Any help
                      > > would be
                      > >>>> appreciated!
                      > >>>>
                      > >>>>
                      > >>>>
                      > >>>
                      > >>>
                      > >>>
                      > >>
                      > >>
                      > >>
                      > >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                      > >>
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > > ------------------------------------
                      > >
                      > > Yahoo! Groups Links
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      >
                      >
                      >



                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    • John G. Henry
                      There is a product which is a plywood faced with a thin layer of MDF. I can t tell you what it is called, but you should be able to find it at your local
                      Message 10 of 24 , Apr 29, 2008
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                        There is a product which is a plywood faced with a thin layer of MDF. I
                        can't tell you what it is called, but you should be able to find it at
                        your local lumber purveyor or home center. It might be resilient enoung
                        and strong enough not to break apart. I would concur that you should
                        probably coat the surface with either enamel or lacquer. Try doing a
                        small piece and make certain the coatign is compatible with the ink you
                        intend to use, anbd doesn't reject it.
                      • briannqueen
                        Just a quick update on some experiments I ve been doing on printing surfaces. I picked up some sample pieces of rigid PVC foam board from my plastic supplier.
                        Message 11 of 24 , Apr 29, 2008
                        • 0 Attachment
                          Just a quick update on some experiments I've been doing on printing
                          surfaces. I picked up some sample pieces of rigid PVC foam board from
                          my plastic supplier. The brand name I used was Sintra. It has a mat
                          surface made for applying graphics and comes in many different
                          thicknesses and colours, I was given white. By chance I also picked up
                          a piece of 3/16" thick white styrene. I cut a 2" square piece of each
                          and mounted them to plywood to make them type high. I tested them using
                          both a water based and oil based ink.
                          The sintra block printed as a very fine dot pattern due to its matt
                          surface and I couldn't get a good solid black impression however the
                          styrene block printed almost perfectly. The surface is not as shiny as
                          acrylic which has that protective film you pull off and looks like a
                          piece of glass, rather it looks just like the polished surface of an
                          old piece of wood type. So the styrene is the winner in my opinion,
                          plus it's much denser and tougher than the Sintra, so I don't think it
                          will crush under the weight of a steam roller. Paint thinner didn't
                          seem to affect it, although when I tested lacquer thinner, it dissolved
                          the surface into a sticky mess. It comes in thickness from card-stock
                          to 3/16 thick. It also seems to machine well using the router except
                          there's the occasion burr that has to be removed.
                          I plan on purchasing 1/8" thick white styrene ($40 for a 4 x 8
                          sheet) which I will adhere to a piece of 1" thick MDF using 3M Super 77
                          spray adhesive or possibly two way tape for smaller blocks. Then I'll
                          CNC machine the backside of the MDF to make the sandwich type high.
                          Although this is more work than just routing birch plywood, MDF or
                          painters plywood, it's tougher than wood and I don't have to prepare
                          the surface in any way to adjust how it accepts ink. The sandwich looks
                          just like Resingrave, but of course it doesn't cut like Resingrave
                          under the graver or gouge.
                          I'll report back when I get into some real printing.



                          --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Claire Taylor"
                          <claire.taylor@...> wrote:
                          >
                          > People often use sintra as an alternative to wood for block prints.
                          It's
                          > a kind of plastic, that I believe signs are made of. It's quite cheap.
                          > It is somewhat brittle, though.
                          >
                          >
                          > Claire Taylor
                          > Studio Assistant
                          > Book Arts Program and Red Butte Press
                          > J. Willard Marriott Library
                          > 295 South 1500 East
                          > Salt Lake City, UT 84112
                          > www.bookartsprogram.com
                          > 801.585.9191
                        • Barbara Hauser
                          Would it be possible to include some photos, too? This is a fascinating project. Thanks, Barbara _______________________________ In
                          Message 12 of 24 , Apr 29, 2008
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                            Would it be possible to include some photos, too? This is a
                            fascinating project.

                            Thanks,
                            Barbara
                            _______________________________

                            In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "briannqueen" <BQueen@...> wrote:

                            Just a quick update on some experiments I've been doing on printing
                            surfaces. . . I'll report back when I get into some real printing.
                          • Kim Vanderheiden
                            Brian, It sounds like people have had some good suggestions for the wood, but if you re interested looking at other media as well, you might try linoleum. The
                            Message 13 of 24 , Apr 29, 2008
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                              Brian,

                              It sounds like people have had some good suggestions for the wood,
                              but if you're interested looking at other media as well, you might
                              try linoleum. The San Francisco Center for the Book has done
                              steamroller printing on linoleum for the past three years as a
                              fundraiser. Many local artists have participated. I participated in
                              elements of it for two years, carving 3ft x 3 ft blocks. See http://
                              www.kimvanderheiden.com/Mixedmedia/bridge/bridge.html for my examples
                              or http://www.sfcb.org/html/roadworks.html for event info.

                              Kim



                              From: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                              [mailto:PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of briannqueen
                              Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 7:36 AM
                              To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                              Subject: [PPLetterpress] Material to make large printing blocks

                              I own a CNC router (computer numerical control) which simply put is a
                              router controlled by a computer. I plan on using my machine to make
                              large wood blocks, as large as four feet by eight feet and smaller ones
                              for my Vandercook SP15 press. We plan on printing the 4' x 8' prints
                              using a steam roller at a public event. I'm looking for help in
                              determining the best wood or printing surface for this purpose. I could
                              use ordinary plywood of course, but it has a grain and leaves a burr.
                              Can anyone recommend a plastic that may be suitable? Detail on the very
                              largest blocks is less of a concern but I want fine detail on the
                              smaller blocks. I'm aware of Resingrave which would be perfect except
                              that it would be much too expensive for the size of quantity I will be
                              using. I considered acrylic but it's kind of brittle and a pain to
                              machine. I figure there must be some kind of polymer out there that
                              will do the trick and not dissolve during cleanup. Any help would be
                              appreciated!

                              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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                              Messages in this topic (9)
                            • Erik Desmyter
                              I have also been experimenting with a CNC-router to make large size blocks or plates to print from on on my traditional iron handpresses. I can say that this
                              Message 14 of 24 , May 3, 2008
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                                I have also been experimenting with a CNC-router to make large size blocks
                                or plates to print from on on my traditional iron handpresses. I can say
                                that this computer to plate technology has some potential & limitations and
                                there are many variables & tolerances in tools, software, material & machine
                                which make everything rather complex. The X, Y, Z axis feed speeds, the
                                router speed, the flatness of the material (no bowing allowed), the angle &
                                sharpness of the routing bits and the 3-dimensional software working from 3D
                                vectors isn't easy in combination with the specifics of letterpress type &
                                inking.

                                I experimented with different materials and had the best results with
                                expensive materials like Corian (acrylic stone) but working in wood is fun
                                but challenging as every kind of wood has different characteristics. Routing
                                speeds should be lower to avoid heating up or burning the wood but avoiding
                                a burr or damaged edges isn't always easy because high routing speeds just
                                give the best sharp edges. Similar story on the X, Y & Z speeds, when you go
                                too fast quality goes down and when you go to slow the wood gets dark and
                                starts to heat up. And making a large plate with slow speeds takes hours...
                                I have just made a small movie and some photos on an experiment in beech,
                                see links below.

                                http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tk4QmaU4JIg

                                http://www.flickr.com/photos/desmyter1856/sets/72157604867473339/

                                For very large plates I guess a good quality MDF would be good but I haven't
                                tested this yet. I am always interested in experiences from other folks
                                working in this direction with CNC technology.

                                Best regards,
                                Erik Desmyter
                                Gent, Belgium
                                erik.desmyter@...

                                ----- Original Message -----
                                From: "briannqueen" <BQueen@...>
                                To: <PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com>
                                Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 3:35 PM
                                Subject: [PPLetterpress] Material to make large printing blocks


                                I own a CNC router (computer numerical control) which simply put is a
                                router controlled by a computer. I plan on using my machine to make
                                large wood blocks, as large as four feet by eight feet and smaller ones
                                for my Vandercook SP15 press. We plan on printing the 4' x 8' prints
                                using a steam roller at a public event. I'm looking for help in
                                determining the best wood or printing surface for this purpose. I could
                                use ordinary plywood of course, but it has a grain and leaves a burr.
                                Can anyone recommend a plastic that may be suitable? Detail on the very
                                largest blocks is less of a concern but I want fine detail on the
                                smaller blocks. I'm aware of Resingrave which would be perfect except
                                that it would be much too expensive for the size of quantity I will be
                                using. I considered acrylic but it's kind of brittle and a pain to
                                machine. I figure there must be some kind of polymer out there that
                                will do the trick and not dissolve during cleanup. Any help would be
                                appreciated!


                                ------------------------------------

                                Yahoo! Groups Links
                              • Barbara Hauser
                                Wow, Erik, I m impressed! I need to ask what I m sure will turn out to be a dumb question, though: if the block is to be used for printing, why is it
                                Message 15 of 24 , May 3, 2008
                                • 0 Attachment
                                  Wow, Erik, I'm impressed! I need to ask what I'm sure will turn out to
                                  be a dumb question, though: if the block is to be used for printing,
                                  why is it right-reading?

                                  Thanks,
                                  Barbara


                                  --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Erik Desmyter"
                                  <erik.desmyter@...> wrote:

                                  I have also been experimenting with a CNC-router to make large size
                                  blocks or plates to print from on on my traditional iron handpresses.
                                  . . I have just made a small movie and some photos on an experiment in
                                  beech, see links below.

                                  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tk4QmaU4JIg

                                  http://www.flickr.com/photos/desmyter1856/sets/72157604867473339/
                                • victoria kniering
                                  Narbara -- I d say that may be problematic....unless he s using offset??? Oopsy, very neat machine though....would love to have one of those to play with.
                                  Message 16 of 24 , May 3, 2008
                                  • 0 Attachment
                                    Narbara --
                                    I'd say that may be problematic....unless he's using offset???
                                    Oopsy,
                                    very neat machine though....would love to have one of those to play
                                    with.
                                    Victoria
                                    On May 3, 2008, at 8:50 PM, Barbara Hauser wrote:

                                    > Wow, Erik, I'm impressed! I need to ask what I'm sure will turn out to
                                    > be a dumb question, though: if the block is to be used for printing,
                                    > why is it right-reading?
                                    >
                                    > Thanks,
                                    > Barbara
                                    >
                                    > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Erik Desmyter"
                                    > <erik.desmyter@...> wrote:
                                    >
                                    > I have also been experimenting with a CNC-router to make large size
                                    > blocks or plates to print from on on my traditional iron handpresses.
                                    > . . I have just made a small movie and some photos on an experiment in
                                    > beech, see links below.
                                    >
                                    > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tk4QmaU4JIg
                                    >
                                    > http://www.flickr.com/photos/desmyter1856/sets/72157604867473339/
                                    >
                                    >
                                    >



                                    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                  • Erik Desmyter
                                    Barbara, The answer is that this block in beech-wood was only a test on speeds, etc... to learn what the possibilities and limitations are of the beech-wood
                                    Message 17 of 24 , May 4, 2008
                                    • 0 Attachment
                                      Barbara,

                                      The answer is that this block in beech-wood was only a test on speeds,
                                      etc... to learn what the possibilities and limitations are of the beech-wood
                                      and to check the design and translation of every letter through the
                                      3-dimensional CNC software and how every letter survives the routing.

                                      Regards,
                                      Erik

                                      ----- Original Message -----
                                      From: "Barbara Hauser" <BarbHauser@...>
                                      To: <PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com>
                                      Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2008 2:50 AM
                                      Subject: [PPLetterpress] Re: Material to make large printing blocks


                                      Wow, Erik, I'm impressed! I need to ask what I'm sure will turn out to
                                      be a dumb question, though: if the block is to be used for printing,
                                      why is it right-reading?

                                      Thanks,
                                      Barbara


                                      --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Erik Desmyter"
                                      <erik.desmyter@...> wrote:

                                      I have also been experimenting with a CNC-router to make large size
                                      blocks or plates to print from on on my traditional iron handpresses.
                                      . . I have just made a small movie and some photos on an experiment in
                                      beech, see links below.

                                      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tk4QmaU4JIg

                                      http://www.flickr.com/photos/desmyter1856/sets/72157604867473339/



                                      ------------------------------------

                                      Yahoo! Groups Links
                                    • briannqueen
                                      Erik, Thank you for posting that video. Do you use the v-bit for all your cutting or do you start with end mills? Also what programs are you using? I have a
                                      Message 18 of 24 , May 4, 2008
                                      • 0 Attachment
                                        Erik,
                                        Thank you for posting that video. Do you use the v-bit for all
                                        your cutting or do you start with end mills? Also what programs are
                                        you using? I have a friend that makes brass dies for foil printing
                                        and he uses ArtCAM. I've watched him program images and text a number
                                        of times and it seemed fairly simple. The cost of ArtCAM of course is
                                        a problem.
                                        I just acquired a piece of Corian after hearing from another
                                        artist that it prints well. Other than its cost it seems to be the
                                        perfect candidate since it's designed to be machinable. Here in North
                                        America it's only sold to authorized fabricators who don't normally
                                        sell it in sheet form. A laminate of 6mm Corian and MDF planed to
                                        type high could be the perfect match combined with CNC technology, no
                                        variation in qualities or grain to worry about. I see on Wikipedia
                                        that Corian has several competitors, who I'm guessing may be cheaper.
                                        I'm also experimenting with 3mm white styrene sheet laminated to MDF
                                        which is considerably less expensive.
                                        Keep us posted on your progress and thank you for the pictures and
                                        video, they have inspired me!

                                        Brian

                                        --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Erik Desmyter"
                                        <erik.desmyter@...> wrote:
                                        >
                                        > I have also been experimenting with a CNC-router to make large size
                                        blocks
                                        > or plates to print from on on my traditional iron handpresses. I
                                        can say
                                        > that this computer to plate technology has some potential &
                                        limitations and
                                        > there are many variables & tolerances in tools, software, material
                                        & machine
                                        > which make everything rather complex. The X, Y, Z axis feed speeds,
                                        the
                                        > router speed, the flatness of the material (no bowing allowed), the
                                        angle &
                                        > sharpness of the routing bits and the 3-dimensional software
                                        working from 3D
                                        > vectors isn't easy in combination with the specifics of letterpress
                                        type &
                                        > inking.
                                        >
                                        > I experimented with different materials and had the best results
                                        with
                                        > expensive materials like Corian (acrylic stone) but working in wood
                                        is fun
                                        > but challenging as every kind of wood has different
                                        characteristics. Routing
                                        > speeds should be lower to avoid heating up or burning the wood but
                                        avoiding
                                        > a burr or damaged edges isn't always easy because high routing
                                        speeds just
                                        > give the best sharp edges. Similar story on the X, Y & Z speeds,
                                        when you go
                                        > too fast quality goes down and when you go to slow the wood gets
                                        dark and
                                        > starts to heat up. And making a large plate with slow speeds takes
                                        hours...
                                        > I have just made a small movie and some photos on an experiment in
                                        beech,
                                        > see links below.
                                        >
                                        > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tk4QmaU4JIg
                                        >
                                        > http://www.flickr.com/photos/desmyter1856/sets/72157604867473339/
                                        >
                                        > For very large plates I guess a good quality MDF would be good but
                                        I haven't
                                        > tested this yet. I am always interested in experiences from other
                                        folks
                                        > working in this direction with CNC technology.
                                        >
                                        > Best regards,
                                        > Erik Desmyter
                                        > Gent, Belgium
                                        > erik.desmyter@...
                                      • Lisa Davidson
                                        I can t believe all these printers using steamrollers! When did that start happening? Lisa ... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                        Message 19 of 24 , May 4, 2008
                                        • 0 Attachment
                                          I can't believe all these printers using steamrollers! When did that
                                          start happening?

                                          Lisa


                                          On May 4, 2008, at 9:20 AM, briannqueen wrote:

                                          > Erik,
                                          > Thank you for posting that video. Do you use the v-bit for all
                                          > your cutting or do you start with end mills? Also what programs are
                                          > you using? I have a friend that makes brass dies for foil printing
                                          > and he uses ArtCAM. I've watched him program images and text a number
                                          > of times and it seemed fairly simple. The cost of ArtCAM of course is
                                          > a problem.
                                          > I just acquired a piece of Corian after hearing from another
                                          > artist that it prints well. Other than its cost it seems to be the
                                          > perfect candidate since it's designed to be machinable. Here in North
                                          > America it's only sold to authorized fabricators who don't normally
                                          > sell it in sheet form. A laminate of 6mm Corian and MDF planed to
                                          > type high could be the perfect match combined with CNC technology, no
                                          > variation in qualities or grain to worry about. I see on Wikipedia
                                          > that Corian has several competitors, who I'm guessing may be cheaper.
                                          > I'm also experimenting with 3mm white styrene sheet laminated to MDF
                                          > which is considerably less expensive.
                                          > Keep us posted on your progress and thank you for the pictures and
                                          > video, they have inspired me!
                                          >
                                          > Brian
                                          >
                                          > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Erik Desmyter"
                                          > <erik.desmyter@...> wrote:
                                          > >
                                          > > I have also been experimenting with a CNC-router to make large size
                                          > blocks
                                          > > or plates to print from on on my traditional iron handpresses. I
                                          > can say
                                          > > that this computer to plate technology has some potential &
                                          > limitations and
                                          > > there are many variables & tolerances in tools, software, material
                                          > & machine
                                          > > which make everything rather complex. The X, Y, Z axis feed speeds,
                                          > the
                                          > > router speed, the flatness of the material (no bowing allowed), the
                                          > angle &
                                          > > sharpness of the routing bits and the 3-dimensional software
                                          > working from 3D
                                          > > vectors isn't easy in combination with the specifics of letterpress
                                          > type &
                                          > > inking.
                                          > >
                                          > > I experimented with different materials and had the best results
                                          > with
                                          > > expensive materials like Corian (acrylic stone) but working in wood
                                          > is fun
                                          > > but challenging as every kind of wood has different
                                          > characteristics. Routing
                                          > > speeds should be lower to avoid heating up or burning the wood but
                                          > avoiding
                                          > > a burr or damaged edges isn't always easy because high routing
                                          > speeds just
                                          > > give the best sharp edges. Similar story on the X, Y & Z speeds,
                                          > when you go
                                          > > too fast quality goes down and when you go to slow the wood gets
                                          > dark and
                                          > > starts to heat up. And making a large plate with slow speeds takes
                                          > hours...
                                          > > I have just made a small movie and some photos on an experiment in
                                          > beech,
                                          > > see links below.
                                          > >
                                          > >http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tk4QmaU4JIg
                                          > >
                                          > >http://www.flickr.com/photos/desmyter1856/sets/72157604867473339/
                                          > >
                                          > > For very large plates I guess a good quality MDF would be good but
                                          > I haven't
                                          > > tested this yet. I am always interested in experiences from other
                                          > folks
                                          > > working in this direction with CNC technology.
                                          > >
                                          > > Best regards,
                                          > > Erik Desmyter
                                          > > Gent, Belgium
                                          > > erik.desmyter@...
                                          >
                                          >
                                          >



                                          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                        • Erik Desmyter
                                          Brian, I normally start with an end mill which works only in X & Y on a depth of for example 5mm and this one takes away most material and does first the rough
                                          Message 20 of 24 , May 4, 2008
                                          • 0 Attachment
                                            Brian,

                                            I normally start with an end mill which works only in X & Y on a depth of
                                            for example 5mm and this one takes away most material and does first the
                                            rough work. In the last finishing step I use a 60 degree V-bits for all the
                                            edges and fine details and this one goes three dimensional X, Y & Z because
                                            you need the fragile sharp top of the V-bit to cut out the sharp edges and
                                            small details. I use several softwares including signmaking software very
                                            similar to ArtCam to finally come to a WinPC-NC file on which this
                                            CNC-router runs.

                                            Buying large panels of new Corian is indeed a problem but some authorized
                                            fabricators are selling their scrap on eBay at reduced prices and some less
                                            popular colors can go really cheap. In Europe there are some companies where
                                            you can order cut to size panels in all the different colors but this is
                                            still expensive. Another possibility could be 1 ¼" thick PVC which is used
                                            as a replacement for wood like this AZEK To Mill (ATM) which is made in
                                            sheet sizes of 4 ft x 8 ft:
                                            http://www.azek.com/viewProduct.php?id=12
                                            I don't know this ATM material here in Europe and haven't tested it but it
                                            looks interesting at first sight and is probably cheaper than Corian.

                                            Regards,
                                            Erik

                                            ----- Original Message -----
                                            From: "briannqueen" <BQueen@...>
                                            To: <PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com>
                                            Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2008 6:20 PM
                                            Subject: [PPLetterpress] Re: Material to make large printing blocks


                                            Erik,
                                            Thank you for posting that video. Do you use the v-bit for all
                                            your cutting or do you start with end mills? Also what programs are
                                            you using? I have a friend that makes brass dies for foil printing
                                            and he uses ArtCAM. I've watched him program images and text a number
                                            of times and it seemed fairly simple. The cost of ArtCAM of course is
                                            a problem.
                                            I just acquired a piece of Corian after hearing from another
                                            artist that it prints well. Other than its cost it seems to be the
                                            perfect candidate since it's designed to be machinable. Here in North
                                            America it's only sold to authorized fabricators who don't normally
                                            sell it in sheet form. A laminate of 6mm Corian and MDF planed to
                                            type high could be the perfect match combined with CNC technology, no
                                            variation in qualities or grain to worry about. I see on Wikipedia
                                            that Corian has several competitors, who I'm guessing may be cheaper.
                                            I'm also experimenting with 3mm white styrene sheet laminated to MDF
                                            which is considerably less expensive.
                                            Keep us posted on your progress and thank you for the pictures and
                                            video, they have inspired me!

                                            Brian
                                          • Joe Freedman
                                            I ve used a program called V-Carve to cut wood on a CNC. Its a great program: easy to use and pretty inexpensive. I can import eps files made on a mac and
                                            Message 21 of 24 , May 4, 2008
                                            • 0 Attachment
                                              I've used a program called V-Carve to cut wood on a CNC. Its a great
                                              program: easy to use and pretty inexpensive. I can import eps files
                                              made on a mac and easily set the parameters in V-Carve. It drives my
                                              little Roland engraver directly with no post processor or dxf
                                              conversion.

                                              Website is http://www.vectric.com/

                                              I still haven't committed it for use on any projects but it seems to
                                              do a really nice job.

                                              Joe
                                            • Lamsland
                                              I ve been looking into CO2 laser engraving systems. Looks to be a great solution. You could make wood or metal plates. Very precise, lots of control and
                                              Message 22 of 24 , May 5, 2008
                                              • 0 Attachment
                                                I've been looking into CO2 laser engraving systems. Looks to be a
                                                great solution. You could make wood or metal plates. Very precise,
                                                lots of control and horribly expensive. The company that makes an
                                                affordable smaller laser engraver will have a whole market to
                                                themselves I think.


                                                Matthew "LAMMY" Lamoureux
                                                Full Metal Press - Operis servo a specialis nundinae

                                                On May 3, 2008, at 6:33 PM, Erik Desmyter wrote:

                                                > I have also been experimenting with a CNC-router to make large size
                                                > blocks
                                                > or plates to print from on on my traditional iron handpresses. I
                                                > can say
                                                > that this computer to plate technology has some potential &
                                                > limitations and
                                                > there are many variables & tolerances in tools, software, material
                                                > & machine
                                                > which make everything rather complex. The X, Y, Z axis feed speeds,
                                                > the
                                                > router speed, the flatness of the material (no bowing allowed), the
                                                > angle &
                                                > sharpness of the routing bits and the 3-dimensional software
                                                > working from 3D
                                                > vectors isn't easy in combination with the specifics of letterpress
                                                > type &
                                                > inking.
                                                >
                                                > I experimented with different materials and had the best results with
                                                > expensive materials like Corian (acrylic stone) but working in wood
                                                > is fun
                                                > but challenging as every kind of wood has different
                                                > characteristics. Routing
                                                > speeds should be lower to avoid heating up or burning the wood but
                                                > avoiding
                                                > a burr or damaged edges isn't always easy because high routing
                                                > speeds just
                                                > give the best sharp edges. Similar story on the X, Y & Z speeds,
                                                > when you go
                                                > too fast quality goes down and when you go to slow the wood gets
                                                > dark and
                                                > starts to heat up. And making a large plate with slow speeds takes
                                                > hours...
                                                > I have just made a small movie and some photos on an experiment in
                                                > beech,
                                                > see links below.
                                                >
                                                > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tk4QmaU4JIg
                                                >
                                                > http://www.flickr.com/photos/desmyter1856/sets/72157604867473339/
                                                >
                                                > For very large plates I guess a good quality MDF would be good but
                                                > I haven't
                                                > tested this yet. I am always interested in experiences from other
                                                > folks
                                                > working in this direction with CNC technology.
                                                >
                                                > Best regards,
                                                > Erik Desmyter
                                                > Gent, Belgium
                                                > erik.desmyter@...
                                                >
                                                > ----- Original Message -----
                                                > From: "briannqueen" <BQueen@...>
                                                > To: <PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com>
                                                > Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 3:35 PM
                                                > Subject: [PPLetterpress] Material to make large printing blocks
                                                >
                                                > I own a CNC router (computer numerical control) which simply put is a
                                                > router controlled by a computer. I plan on using my machine to make
                                                > large wood blocks, as large as four feet by eight feet and smaller
                                                > ones
                                                > for my Vandercook SP15 press. We plan on printing the 4' x 8' prints
                                                > using a steam roller at a public event. I'm looking for help in
                                                > determining the best wood or printing surface for this purpose. I
                                                > could
                                                > use ordinary plywood of course, but it has a grain and leaves a burr.
                                                > Can anyone recommend a plastic that may be suitable? Detail on the
                                                > very
                                                > largest blocks is less of a concern but I want fine detail on the
                                                > smaller blocks. I'm aware of Resingrave which would be perfect except
                                                > that it would be much too expensive for the size of quantity I will be
                                                > using. I considered acrylic but it's kind of brittle and a pain to
                                                > machine. I figure there must be some kind of polymer out there that
                                                > will do the trick and not dissolve during cleanup. Any help would be
                                                > appreciated!
                                                >
                                                > ------------------------------------
                                                >
                                                > Yahoo! Groups Links
                                                >
                                                >



                                                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                              • briannqueen
                                                Erik, I was excited to see your post about this new material that was thick enough to be planed down to type high. The website showed what appeared to be a
                                                Message 23 of 24 , May 8, 2008
                                                • 0 Attachment
                                                  Erik,
                                                  I was excited to see your post about this new material that was
                                                  thick enough to be planed down to type high. The website showed what
                                                  appeared to be a solid dense plastic, so I quickly found the
                                                  distributor and then a store that sold the product, but unfortunately
                                                  it's not suitable for printing. It's most common use is as a
                                                  replacement for lumber to make decks, one side is smooth while the
                                                  other side has a faux wood grain finish, however even the smooth side
                                                  is covered with very fine pits. It appears as though it's a mixture
                                                  of plastic and sawdust or some kind of filler to reduce costs, but it
                                                  was worth a try!

                                                  Brian


                                                  --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Erik Desmyter"
                                                  <erik.desmyter@...> wrote:
                                                  >
                                                  > Brian,
                                                  >
                                                  > I normally start with an end mill which works only in X & Y on a
                                                  depth of
                                                  > for example 5mm and this one takes away most material and does
                                                  first the
                                                  > rough work. In the last finishing step I use a 60 degree V-bits for
                                                  all the
                                                  > edges and fine details and this one goes three dimensional X, Y &
                                                  Z because
                                                  > you need the fragile sharp top of the V-bit to cut out the sharp
                                                  edges and
                                                  > small details. I use several softwares including signmaking
                                                  software very
                                                  > similar to ArtCam to finally come to a WinPC-NC file on which this
                                                  > CNC-router runs.
                                                  >
                                                  > Buying large panels of new Corian is indeed a problem but some
                                                  authorized
                                                  > fabricators are selling their scrap on eBay at reduced prices and
                                                  some less
                                                  > popular colors can go really cheap. In Europe there are some
                                                  companies where
                                                  > you can order cut to size panels in all the different colors but
                                                  this is
                                                  > still expensive. Another possibility could be 1 ¼" thick PVC which
                                                  is used
                                                  > as a replacement for wood like this AZEK To Mill (ATM) which is
                                                  made in
                                                  > sheet sizes of 4 ft x 8 ft:
                                                  > http://www.azek.com/viewProduct.php?id=12
                                                  > I don't know this ATM material here in Europe and haven't tested it
                                                  but it
                                                  > looks interesting at first sight and is probably cheaper than
                                                  Corian.
                                                  >
                                                  > Regards,
                                                  > Erik
                                                • lamsland1@comcast.net
                                                  Just had a wild thought, What about Delrin? Plastic metal substitute. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyoxymethylene check out the part about machining. It may
                                                  Message 24 of 24 , May 9, 2008
                                                  • 0 Attachment
                                                    Just had a wild thought, What about Delrin? Plastic metal substitute.

                                                    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyoxymethylene

                                                    check out the part about machining.

                                                    It may be on the pricey side for large sheets though.



                                                    -------------- Original message ----------------------
                                                    From: "briannqueen" <BQueen@...>
                                                    > Erik,
                                                    > I was excited to see your post about this new material that was
                                                    > thick enough to be planed down to type high. The website showed what
                                                    > appeared to be a solid dense plastic, so I quickly found the
                                                    > distributor and then a store that sold the product, but unfortunately
                                                    > it's not suitable for printing. It's most common use is as a
                                                    > replacement for lumber to make decks, one side is smooth while the
                                                    > other side has a faux wood grain finish, however even the smooth side
                                                    > is covered with very fine pits. It appears as though it's a mixture
                                                    > of plastic and sawdust or some kind of filler to reduce costs, but it
                                                    > was worth a try!
                                                    >
                                                    > Brian
                                                    >
                                                    >
                                                    > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Erik Desmyter"
                                                    > <erik.desmyter@...> wrote:
                                                    > >
                                                    > > Brian,
                                                    > >
                                                    > > I normally start with an end mill which works only in X & Y on a
                                                    > depth of
                                                    > > for example 5mm and this one takes away most material and does
                                                    > first the
                                                    > > rough work. In the last finishing step I use a 60 degree V-bits for
                                                    > all the
                                                    > > edges and fine details and this one goes three dimensional X, Y &
                                                    > Z because
                                                    > > you need the fragile sharp top of the V-bit to cut out the sharp
                                                    > edges and
                                                    > > small details. I use several softwares including signmaking
                                                    > software very
                                                    > > similar to ArtCam to finally come to a WinPC-NC file on which this
                                                    > > CNC-router runs.
                                                    > >
                                                    > > Buying large panels of new Corian is indeed a problem but some
                                                    > authorized
                                                    > > fabricators are selling their scrap on eBay at reduced prices and
                                                    > some less
                                                    > > popular colors can go really cheap. In Europe there are some
                                                    > companies where
                                                    > > you can order cut to size panels in all the different colors but
                                                    > this is
                                                    > > still expensive. Another possibility could be 1 �" thick PVC which
                                                    > is used
                                                    > > as a replacement for wood like this AZEK To Mill (ATM) which is
                                                    > made in
                                                    > > sheet sizes of 4 ft x 8 ft:
                                                    > > http://www.azek.com/viewProduct.php?id=12
                                                    > > I don't know this ATM material here in Europe and haven't tested it
                                                    > but it
                                                    > > looks interesting at first sight and is probably cheaper than
                                                    > Corian.
                                                    > >
                                                    > > Regards,
                                                    > > Erik
                                                    >
                                                    >
                                                    >
                                                    >




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