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Re: Deep relief pp; Cutting a larger base....

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  • Gerald Lange
    Matt You don t have to tape the underlay. You can buy pre-measured thicknesses of acetate at art supply stores. Just make the bottommost sheet of underlay a
    Message 1 of 20 , Aug 1, 2007
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      Matt

      You don't have to tape the underlay. You can buy pre-measured
      thicknesses of acetate at art supply stores. Just make the bottommost
      sheet of underlay a half inch or so larger than the base size (at the
      top and bottom area of the base), and fold it (quite accurately) at
      those marks and lock it against those edges of the base in the chase.
      Or you can just do the top edges of the combined underlay and "hang"
      it as the chase is clamped into position. By creating a second fold at
      the bottom of the base though, any further partial underlay
      adjustments needed in balancing the base can be inserted within the
      acetate "sandwich."

      Gerald
      http://BielerPress.blogspot.com

      --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Matt Kelsey"
      <matthewkelsey@...> wrote:
      >
      > Gerald,
      >
      > Yes, I have tried the thinner plates with the underlay. It's definitely
      > trickier with a platen than it would be with a flatbed press. Maybe
      there
      > are some tricks that I haven't discovered yet, but I would rather do
      without
      > the headache of figuring out where best to tape the underlay so that it
      > would stay in place but wouldn't interfere with impression. There are
      > already too many variables without adding more.
      >
      > Matt
      >
      > On 8/1/07, Gerald Lange <Bieler@...> wrote:
      > >
      > > Matt
      > >
      > > The thinner base, the so called "deep relief," will actually
      > > accomodate either thick or thin plates with appropriate underlay on
      > > the latter ((dependent upon the variance of grind, .021-.023). So, you
      > > don't really need another base. Bit trickier on a platen though. But
      > > yes, if one is inking the floor of the plate, the rollers are
      > > definitely out of adjustment.
      > >
      > > Gerald
      > > http://BielerPress.blogspot.com
      > >
    • Peter Fraterdeus
      Thanks all for the enlightenment on this thread! Hope to have all the pieces in place to give it a whirl in the next week or so. (Still waiting for my 220
      Message 2 of 20 , Aug 2, 2007
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        Thanks all for the enlightenment on this thread!
        Hope to have all the pieces in place to give it a whirl in the next week or so. (Still waiting for my 220 power install for the Intertek...)
        I've got a 9x12 Boxcar base which came along with the Heidelberg, as it turns out.
        Haven't checked with the gauge yet, but I assume it's "standard" height, as there are no markings indicating otherwise (does the deep base have a note to that effect?)

        Regards
        PF

        At 5:21 AM +0000 2 08 07, Gerald Lange wrote:
        >Matt
        >
        >The thinner base, the so called "deep relief," will actually
        >accomodate either thick or thin plates with appropriate underlay on
        >the latter ((dependent upon the variance of grind, .021-.023). So, you
        >don't really need another base. Bit trickier on a platen though. But
        >yes, if one is inking the floor of the plate, the rollers are
        >definitely out of adjustment.

        --
        AzByCx DwEvFu GtHsIr JqKpLo MnNmOl PkQjRi ShTgUf VeWdXc YbZa&@
        >ARTQ: Help stop in-box bloat! Always Remember to Trim the Quote!<

        Semiotx Inc http://typeandmeaning.com Sign up for "Type and Meaning" !
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        Peter Fraterdeus http://www.alphabets.com : Sign up for "MiceType"!
        Galena, Illinois Design Philosophy Fonts Lettering Letterpress Wood Type
        Dubuque, Iowa http://www.fraterdeus.com
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      • Harold Kyle
        The bases with red gridding are Deep Relief. Standard bases have black gridding. For Matt, a glue stick helps keep underlay attached to the base during lockup.
        Message 3 of 20 , Aug 2, 2007
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          The bases with red gridding are Deep Relief. Standard bases have black
          gridding.

          For Matt, a glue stick helps keep underlay attached to the base during
          lockup.

          I hope this helps,
          Harold



          Peter Fraterdeus wrote:
          >
          > Thanks all for the enlightenment on this thread!
          > Hope to have all the pieces in place to give it a whirl in the next
          > week or so. (Still waiting for my 220 power install for the Intertek...)
          > I've got a 9x12 Boxcar base which came along with the Heidelberg, as
          > it turns out.
          > Haven't checked with the gauge yet, but I assume it's "standard"
          > height, as there are no markings indicating otherwise (does the deep
          > base have a note to that effect?)
          >
          > Regards
          > PF
          >
          > At 5:21 AM +0000 2 08 07, Gerald Lange wrote:
          > >Matt
          > >
          > >The thinner base, the so called "deep relief," will actually
          > >accomodate either thick or thin plates with appropriate underlay on
          > >the latter ((dependent upon the variance of grind, .021-.023). So, you
          > >don't really need another base. Bit trickier on a platen though. But
          > >yes, if one is inking the floor of the plate, the rollers are
          > >definitely out of adjustment.
          >
          > --
          > AzByCx DwEvFu GtHsIr JqKpLo MnNmOl PkQjRi ShTgUf VeWdXc YbZa&@
          > >ARTQ: Help stop in-box bloat! Always Remember to Trim the Quote!<
          >
          > Semiotx Inc http://typeandmeaning.com <http://typeandmeaning.com> Sign
          > up for "Type and Meaning" !
          > Creative/IT facilitation "Free Range IT" Plone CMS Typography
          > -:-*-:-*-:-*-:-*-:-*-:-*-:-*-:-*-:-*-:-*-:-*-:-*-:-*-:-*-:-*-:-*-:-*-:-*-:-*-:-*-:-*-:-*-:-*
          > Peter Fraterdeus http://www.alphabets.com <http://www.alphabets.com> :
          > Sign up for "MiceType"!
          > Galena, Illinois Design Philosophy Fonts Lettering Letterpress Wood Type
          > Dubuque, Iowa http://www.fraterdeus.com <http://www.fraterdeus.com>
          > Photography Irish Fiddle Political Observation
          > http://flickr.com/photos/pfraterdeus
          > <http://flickr.com/photos/pfraterdeus>
          >
          >
          >

          --
          . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
          Boxcar Press: Letterpress for the 21st Century
          501 West Fayette Street, Studio 222
          Syracuse, New York 13204
          (315) 473-0930 phone
          (315) 473-0967 fax
          http://www.boxcarpress.com
          . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
        • Gerald Lange
          Matt Thanks. I would think this would work for any kind of base where the plate and base combination do not work out to type high but can be measurable.
          Message 4 of 20 , Aug 2, 2007
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            Matt

            Thanks. I would think this would work for any kind of base where the
            plate and base combination do not work out to type high but can be
            measurable. Though, the fold is tricky; a 1/2-pt (copper) or 1-pt (brass
            or lead) length of leading might need be used to compensate between the
            base and underlay slip.

            Gerald
            http://BielerPress.blogspot.com

            Matt Kelsey wrote:
            > Gerald,
            >
            > Thanks for this. I knew there must be some clever way of doing the
            > underlay, but I definitely hadn't thought of this. I am reluctant to
            > use a glue stick or anything that could leave buildup, residue, etc.
            > But the folded acetate is a great idea that would make this base
            > easily switchable between the different thicknesses of plates.
            >
            > Matt
            >
            > On 8/1/07, *Gerald Lange* <Bieler@... <mailto:Bieler@...>> wrote:
            >
            > Matt
            >
            > You don't have to tape the underlay. You can buy pre-measured
            > thicknesses of acetate at art supply stores. Just make the bottommost
            > sheet of underlay a half inch or so larger than the base size (at the
            > top and bottom area of the base), and fold it (quite accurately) at
            > those marks and lock it against those edges of the base in the chase.
            > Or you can just do the top edges of the combined underlay and "hang"
            > it as the chase is clamped into position. By creating a second fold at
            > the bottom of the base though, any further partial underlay
            > adjustments needed in balancing the base can be inserted within the
            > acetate "sandwich."
            >
            > Gerald
            > http://BielerPress.blogspot.com
            >
            > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
            > <mailto:PPLetterpress%40yahoogroups.com>, "Matt Kelsey"
            > <matthewkelsey@...> wrote:
            > >
            > > Gerald,
            > >
            > > Yes, I have tried the thinner plates with the underlay. It's
            > definitely
            > > trickier with a platen than it would be with a flatbed press. Maybe
            > there
            > > are some tricks that I haven't discovered yet, but I would rather do
            > without
            > > the headache of figuring out where best to tape the underlay so
            > that it
            > > would stay in place but wouldn't interfere with impression. There are
            > > already too many variables without adding more.
            > >
            > > Matt
            > >
            >
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