Re: Problem with plate outline showing up on deep impression
- I'd agree with Peter, but magnesium doesn't have a clean etch on the
sidewalls of the letters like photopolymer, so zinc would be better,
and copper would be best. It is easily sourced from Owosso or Metal
Magic in Phoenix. The best engraving, and avoiding the almost always
inaccurate wood bases, is to use quarter inch thick dies mounted on
a base using toggle hooks. Bases are made by Sterling. The same
files used for photopolymer can be used for traditional
photoengravings--photopolymer is not the answer for all letterpress
I would disagree with Peter on steel die engraving work, like on
business cards and letterheads, that the plate or die mark is never
seen unless done by an inexperienced press operator. Plate marks are
seen on etchings and the like, but not on commercial engraving.
>> Why not just all it what it is ;-)!paper and plate are run through the rollers together.
> Client education is always appropriate!
> In traditional engravings, there's always a plate-mark, since the
>that plate? (Just a few lines, I'm sure it's fine...)
> Otherwise, you may need a deep-engraved mag plate instead of PP...
> Just my first thoughts...
> I do feel somewhat concerned for your C&P. How much coverage on
>photopolymer plates. The client wants a very deep impression but
> At 8:54 AM -0700 9 07 07, Karen Mortenson wrote:
> >Hello All,
> >I am printing with my C & P 10x15 on 4-ply museum board usuing
when I woud get the impression she wanted, the outline of the plate
would make an impression as well. I know this paper is particularly
thick and squishy.
Deep magnesium plates might help.
And, if you are getting not just impressions where you don't want
them, but ink there
as well, your rollers are running too close to the plate and you
could try putting tape on the rails to raise the rollers a bit.
I'm no expert but when I had a similar problem, those were my
solutions. Raising the rails was the most important; mine were quite
worn down, apparently.
On Jul 9, 2007, at 11:54 AM, Karen Mortenson wrote:
> Hello All,
> I am printing with my C & P 10x15 on 4-ply museum board usuing
> photopolymer plates. The client wants a very deep impression but
> when I woud get the impression she wanted, the outline of the plate
> would make an impression as well. I know this paper is particularly
> thick and squishy.
> Any suggestions?
> Many thanks!
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
- HI Karen,
I have done a lot of printing on 4-ply museum board and am familiar
with the problem you are encountering. Assuming you are working for a
client who is not interested in being educated on the finer points of
beat fat/beat lean (although it's hard to imagine such a person),
here are some suggestions:
1) Remove all the packing from the tympan, pull an impression and see
if you are still getting a plate impression.
1a) If you still see the plate without any packing, you will need to
back off the platen prior to proceeding with the steps below.
2) If without any packing you are NOT getting a plate impression,
progressively build up the packing until you start to see the
impression. Once you do reduce the packing by 2 mil.
3) Trace an outline of your plate onto a sheet of packing material (I
usually use 6 mil tympan paper) and cut it out just inside the line
(ie. the packing should be slightly smaller than your plate so that
the plate edge does not contact the paper).
4) Due to possible shift in the packing, I would mount this packing
directly onto the tympan using either a spray adhesive, or carefully
positioned dots of pva. You can usually increase the packing within
the perimeter of the plate by at least 8 mil before you will
encounter the next problem which will be getting an impression of the