Re: Boxcar Base
- Hi Eric
Yeah, I've got a zillion specialized tools for this, and dropped a few
more bucks tonight searching for that nibbler. Ah, Radio Shack, sort
of like going to Home Depot, except for the wait. Still junk when you
get it home though.
I suppose this will irritate just about everyone but I'd recommend not
ever disturbing the length/width configuration of a plate, whether
steel-backed or polyester-backed. Except, of course, in the quick and
dirty or the desperate necessity. Why? The lay-down can easily get
distorted or twisted. Plain and simple.
> There are a variety of tools that will cut metal plates on an
> irregular path or a limited distance, but most will remove a width of
> metal. You can get a "nibbler" at Radio Shack, and it takes a 1/16"
> deep by 1/4" wide bite, which can be started from a hole drilled in
> the middle of the plate; with practice, you can also use a jigsaw or
> coping saw or jeweller's saw for a thinner path. I also use little
> curved dental scissors, straight and curved tinsnips, and a French
> version of the nibbler (it says "cisaille" on the package). All are
> useful, none are perfect, and you'll need to file off edge-burrs. And
> I warn you, working with cut metal like this, you really should have a
> full first-aid kit and know how to make a butterfly bandage.
> E Holub, SF
- Gerald, I should add that I'm using these tools on Miraclon/Rigilon
which has a fairly rigid metal backing. A more flexible back, as on
Printight, can be more distorted by tools with a short cut (except
maybe the nibbler, which supports the remaining material as it cuts,
but it can leave a bit of a sawtooth edge). Cut Printight with
tinsnips and it may get a lasagna-edge. As I said, these tools are
useful but not perfect. And I can understand why some people prefer
the ease of cutting plastic plates with scissors or xacto.
But since I often mount small plates on lead high-base, the nibbler
lets me trim a plate right up to the beard, butt it against foundry
Eric Holub, SF
--- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Gerald Lange" <Bieler@...> wrote:
> Yeah, I've got a zillion specialized tools for this, and dropped a few
> more bucks tonight searching for that nibbler. Ah, Radio Shack, sort
> of like going to Home Depot, except for the wait. Still junk when you
> get it home though.
> I suppose this will irritate just about everyone but I'd recommend not
> ever disturbing the length/width configuration of a plate, whether
> steel-backed or polyester-backed. Except, of course, in the quick and
> dirty or the desperate necessity. Why? The lay-down can easily get
> distorted or twisted. Plain and simple.
- Just some information:
Besides manufacturing magnetic flatbases and magnetic cylinders for
the printing industry, Bunting actually makes non-magnetic cylinders
for use with polyester-backed platesand has for a "lot" longer than
"boxcar plates" have been around. They never manufactured a
non-magnetic flatbase though, I assume, market-wise, they saw no
industry support since non-magnetic flatbases were readily available.
I had a bunch of the old plastic newspaper bases at one point, and
they were also made from type metal and wood (I have some very precise
aluminum combination base material that was manufactured in Germany).
Those old AWT and ATF catalogs list all sorts of base material.
> > By "boxcar plate," do you mean you are using a polyester-backed plate
> > w/film adhesive on a Bunting Magnetic base? If so, what is the
> > rationale?
> Yes we use polyester-backed plates w/ film adhesive (a whole lot
> easier to say boxcar plate), but it's not on a magnetic base, its
> just an aluminum base. I don't know why I said bunting.
> But, even on a magnetic base I would use boxcar plates (and have
> before, on other people's setup) and just adjust the press
> accordingly, for a number of reasons, though mostly for quick
> registration (we tape the plate upside down to the paper, properly
> registered, and then run it through the press).