Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: [PPLetterpress] Re: Boxcar Base

Expand Messages
  • Blue Barnhouse
    While kutrimmers are handy for cutting straight lines, I find the need to cut in curves or around particular items- which I have tried on steel plates with
    Message 1 of 28 , Apr 5 6:38 AM
    • 0 Attachment
      While kutrimmers are handy for cutting straight lines, I find the
      need to cut in curves or around particular items- which I have tried
      on steel plates with snips but the results are difficult to come by
      and often messy. As per quick and dirty fixes, while I'm a
      perfectionist like the rest of us- an end result I can be proud of
      is what I'm after and the number of paths I take to that result on a
      day to day basis are widely varied. In this instance the job was a
      favor and with a whole bunch of paying jobs waiting in queue, quick
      and dirty sounded mighty delicious.

      Brandon


      On Apr 5, 2007, at 12:59 AM, Gerald Lange wrote:

      > Brandon
      >
      > A Kutrimmer works quite well for precision cutting on steel-backed
      > plates. I did have an occasion to correct a steel-backed plate in the
      > manner you describe. Not something I'd suggest as common routine.
      >
      > Don't know though that I'd also suggest this as a qualitative measure
      > for a polyester-backed vs. steel-backed kind of thing. That seems a
      > bit silly. Quick and dirty fixes are just what they are, and I'd
      > "hope" not a rationale for preference or practice.
      >
      > Gerald
      > http://BielerPress.blogspot.com
      >
      > >
      > > But, even on a magnetic base I would use boxcar plates (and have
      > > before, on other people's setup) and just adjust the press
      > > accordingly, for a number of reasons, though mostly for quick
      > > registration (we tape the plate upside down to the paper, properly
      > > registered, and then run it through the press). Yesterday we had a
      > > last minute switch on a poster for a summer movie series-- the
      > > client wanted to change "last of the unicorns" to "the last
      > > unicorn." rather than order a new negative we chopped up the plate
      > > with scissors and rearranged the words. I would never attempt
      > > something like that on a steel backed plate.
      > >
      > >
      >
      >
      >



      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • parallel_imp
      ... There are a variety of tools that will cut metal plates on an irregular path or a limited distance, but most will remove a width of metal. You can get a
      Message 2 of 28 , Apr 5 12:07 PM
      • 0 Attachment
        --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, Blue Barnhouse
        <letpresslist@...> wrote:
        >
        > While kutrimmers are handy for cutting straight lines, I find the
        > need to cut in curves or around particular items- which I have tried
        > on steel plates with snips but the results are difficult to come by
        > and often messy.

        There are a variety of tools that will cut metal plates on an
        irregular path or a limited distance, but most will remove a width of
        metal. You can get a "nibbler" at Radio Shack, and it takes a 1/16"
        deep by 1/4" wide bite, which can be started from a hole drilled in
        the middle of the plate; with practice, you can also use a jigsaw or
        coping saw or jeweller's saw for a thinner path. I also use little
        curved dental scissors, straight and curved tinsnips, and a French
        version of the nibbler (it says "cisaille" on the package). All are
        useful, none are perfect, and you'll need to file off edge-burrs. And
        I warn you, working with cut metal like this, you really should have a
        full first-aid kit and know how to make a butterfly bandage.
        E Holub, SF
      • Gerald Lange
        Hi Eric Yeah, I ve got a zillion specialized tools for this, and dropped a few more bucks tonight searching for that nibbler. Ah, Radio Shack, sort of like
        Message 3 of 28 , Apr 5 9:40 PM
        • 0 Attachment
          Hi Eric

          Yeah, I've got a zillion specialized tools for this, and dropped a few
          more bucks tonight searching for that nibbler. Ah, Radio Shack, sort
          of like going to Home Depot, except for the wait. Still junk when you
          get it home though.

          I suppose this will irritate just about everyone but I'd recommend not
          ever disturbing the length/width configuration of a plate, whether
          steel-backed or polyester-backed. Except, of course, in the quick and
          dirty or the desperate necessity. Why? The lay-down can easily get
          distorted or twisted. Plain and simple.

          Gerald
          http://BielerPress.blogspot.com



          >
          > There are a variety of tools that will cut metal plates on an
          > irregular path or a limited distance, but most will remove a width of
          > metal. You can get a "nibbler" at Radio Shack, and it takes a 1/16"
          > deep by 1/4" wide bite, which can be started from a hole drilled in
          > the middle of the plate; with practice, you can also use a jigsaw or
          > coping saw or jeweller's saw for a thinner path. I also use little
          > curved dental scissors, straight and curved tinsnips, and a French
          > version of the nibbler (it says "cisaille" on the package). All are
          > useful, none are perfect, and you'll need to file off edge-burrs. And
          > I warn you, working with cut metal like this, you really should have a
          > full first-aid kit and know how to make a butterfly bandage.
          > E Holub, SF
          >
        • parallel_imp
          Gerald, I should add that I m using these tools on Miraclon/Rigilon which has a fairly rigid metal backing. A more flexible back, as on Printight, can be more
          Message 4 of 28 , Apr 6 10:12 AM
          • 0 Attachment
            Gerald, I should add that I'm using these tools on Miraclon/Rigilon
            which has a fairly rigid metal backing. A more flexible back, as on
            Printight, can be more distorted by tools with a short cut (except
            maybe the nibbler, which supports the remaining material as it cuts,
            but it can leave a bit of a sawtooth edge). Cut Printight with
            tinsnips and it may get a lasagna-edge. As I said, these tools are
            useful but not perfect. And I can understand why some people prefer
            the ease of cutting plastic plates with scissors or xacto.
            But since I often mount small plates on lead high-base, the nibbler
            lets me trim a plate right up to the beard, butt it against foundry
            type, etc.
            Eric Holub, SF
            --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Gerald Lange" <Bieler@...> wrote:
            > Yeah, I've got a zillion specialized tools for this, and dropped a few
            > more bucks tonight searching for that nibbler. Ah, Radio Shack, sort
            > of like going to Home Depot, except for the wait. Still junk when you
            > get it home though.
            >
            > I suppose this will irritate just about everyone but I'd recommend not
            > ever disturbing the length/width configuration of a plate, whether
            > steel-backed or polyester-backed. Except, of course, in the quick and
            > dirty or the desperate necessity. Why? The lay-down can easily get
            > distorted or twisted. Plain and simple.
          • Gerald Lange
            Just some information: Besides manufacturing magnetic flatbases and magnetic cylinders for the printing industry, Bunting actually makes non-magnetic cylinders
            Message 5 of 28 , Apr 7 12:04 AM
            • 0 Attachment
              Just some information:

              Besides manufacturing magnetic flatbases and magnetic cylinders for
              the printing industry, Bunting actually makes non-magnetic cylinders
              for use with polyester-backed plates—and has for a "lot" longer than
              "boxcar plates" have been around. They never manufactured a
              non-magnetic flatbase though, I assume, market-wise, they saw no
              industry support since non-magnetic flatbases were readily available.
              I had a bunch of the old plastic newspaper bases at one point, and
              they were also made from type metal and wood (I have some very precise
              aluminum combination base material that was manufactured in Germany).
              Those old AWT and ATF catalogs list all sorts of base material.

              Gerald
              http://BielerPress.blogspot.com


              > >
              > > By "boxcar plate," do you mean you are using a polyester-backed plate
              > > w/film adhesive on a Bunting Magnetic base? If so, what is the
              > > rationale?
              > >
              >
              > Yes we use polyester-backed plates w/ film adhesive (a whole lot
              > easier to say boxcar plate), but it's not on a magnetic base, its
              > just an aluminum base. I don't know why I said bunting.
              >
              > But, even on a magnetic base I would use boxcar plates (and have
              > before, on other people's setup) and just adjust the press
              > accordingly, for a number of reasons, though mostly for quick
              > registration (we tape the plate upside down to the paper, properly
              > registered, and then run it through the press).
              >
            Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.