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Re: Boxcar Base

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  • Gerald Lange
    Brandon A Kutrimmer works quite well for precision cutting on steel-backed plates. I did have an occasion to correct a steel-backed plate in the manner you
    Message 1 of 28 , Apr 4, 2007
      Brandon

      A Kutrimmer works quite well for precision cutting on steel-backed
      plates. I did have an occasion to correct a steel-backed plate in the
      manner you describe. Not something I'd suggest as common routine.

      Don't know though that I'd also suggest this as a qualitative measure
      for a polyester-backed vs. steel-backed kind of thing. That seems a
      bit silly. Quick and dirty fixes are just what they are, and I'd
      "hope" not a rationale for preference or practice.

      Gerald
      http://BielerPress.blogspot.com


      >
      > But, even on a magnetic base I would use boxcar plates (and have
      > before, on other people's setup) and just adjust the press
      > accordingly, for a number of reasons, though mostly for quick
      > registration (we tape the plate upside down to the paper, properly
      > registered, and then run it through the press). Yesterday we had a
      > last minute switch on a poster for a summer movie series-- the
      > client wanted to change "last of the unicorns" to "the last
      > unicorn." rather than order a new negative we chopped up the plate
      > with scissors and rearranged the words. I would never attempt
      > something like that on a steel backed plate.
      >
      >
    • Blue Barnhouse
      While kutrimmers are handy for cutting straight lines, I find the need to cut in curves or around particular items- which I have tried on steel plates with
      Message 2 of 28 , Apr 5, 2007
        While kutrimmers are handy for cutting straight lines, I find the
        need to cut in curves or around particular items- which I have tried
        on steel plates with snips but the results are difficult to come by
        and often messy. As per quick and dirty fixes, while I'm a
        perfectionist like the rest of us- an end result I can be proud of
        is what I'm after and the number of paths I take to that result on a
        day to day basis are widely varied. In this instance the job was a
        favor and with a whole bunch of paying jobs waiting in queue, quick
        and dirty sounded mighty delicious.

        Brandon


        On Apr 5, 2007, at 12:59 AM, Gerald Lange wrote:

        > Brandon
        >
        > A Kutrimmer works quite well for precision cutting on steel-backed
        > plates. I did have an occasion to correct a steel-backed plate in the
        > manner you describe. Not something I'd suggest as common routine.
        >
        > Don't know though that I'd also suggest this as a qualitative measure
        > for a polyester-backed vs. steel-backed kind of thing. That seems a
        > bit silly. Quick and dirty fixes are just what they are, and I'd
        > "hope" not a rationale for preference or practice.
        >
        > Gerald
        > http://BielerPress.blogspot.com
        >
        > >
        > > But, even on a magnetic base I would use boxcar plates (and have
        > > before, on other people's setup) and just adjust the press
        > > accordingly, for a number of reasons, though mostly for quick
        > > registration (we tape the plate upside down to the paper, properly
        > > registered, and then run it through the press). Yesterday we had a
        > > last minute switch on a poster for a summer movie series-- the
        > > client wanted to change "last of the unicorns" to "the last
        > > unicorn." rather than order a new negative we chopped up the plate
        > > with scissors and rearranged the words. I would never attempt
        > > something like that on a steel backed plate.
        > >
        > >
        >
        >
        >



        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • parallel_imp
        ... There are a variety of tools that will cut metal plates on an irregular path or a limited distance, but most will remove a width of metal. You can get a
        Message 3 of 28 , Apr 5, 2007
          --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, Blue Barnhouse
          <letpresslist@...> wrote:
          >
          > While kutrimmers are handy for cutting straight lines, I find the
          > need to cut in curves or around particular items- which I have tried
          > on steel plates with snips but the results are difficult to come by
          > and often messy.

          There are a variety of tools that will cut metal plates on an
          irregular path or a limited distance, but most will remove a width of
          metal. You can get a "nibbler" at Radio Shack, and it takes a 1/16"
          deep by 1/4" wide bite, which can be started from a hole drilled in
          the middle of the plate; with practice, you can also use a jigsaw or
          coping saw or jeweller's saw for a thinner path. I also use little
          curved dental scissors, straight and curved tinsnips, and a French
          version of the nibbler (it says "cisaille" on the package). All are
          useful, none are perfect, and you'll need to file off edge-burrs. And
          I warn you, working with cut metal like this, you really should have a
          full first-aid kit and know how to make a butterfly bandage.
          E Holub, SF
        • Gerald Lange
          Hi Eric Yeah, I ve got a zillion specialized tools for this, and dropped a few more bucks tonight searching for that nibbler. Ah, Radio Shack, sort of like
          Message 4 of 28 , Apr 5, 2007
            Hi Eric

            Yeah, I've got a zillion specialized tools for this, and dropped a few
            more bucks tonight searching for that nibbler. Ah, Radio Shack, sort
            of like going to Home Depot, except for the wait. Still junk when you
            get it home though.

            I suppose this will irritate just about everyone but I'd recommend not
            ever disturbing the length/width configuration of a plate, whether
            steel-backed or polyester-backed. Except, of course, in the quick and
            dirty or the desperate necessity. Why? The lay-down can easily get
            distorted or twisted. Plain and simple.

            Gerald
            http://BielerPress.blogspot.com



            >
            > There are a variety of tools that will cut metal plates on an
            > irregular path or a limited distance, but most will remove a width of
            > metal. You can get a "nibbler" at Radio Shack, and it takes a 1/16"
            > deep by 1/4" wide bite, which can be started from a hole drilled in
            > the middle of the plate; with practice, you can also use a jigsaw or
            > coping saw or jeweller's saw for a thinner path. I also use little
            > curved dental scissors, straight and curved tinsnips, and a French
            > version of the nibbler (it says "cisaille" on the package). All are
            > useful, none are perfect, and you'll need to file off edge-burrs. And
            > I warn you, working with cut metal like this, you really should have a
            > full first-aid kit and know how to make a butterfly bandage.
            > E Holub, SF
            >
          • parallel_imp
            Gerald, I should add that I m using these tools on Miraclon/Rigilon which has a fairly rigid metal backing. A more flexible back, as on Printight, can be more
            Message 5 of 28 , Apr 6, 2007
              Gerald, I should add that I'm using these tools on Miraclon/Rigilon
              which has a fairly rigid metal backing. A more flexible back, as on
              Printight, can be more distorted by tools with a short cut (except
              maybe the nibbler, which supports the remaining material as it cuts,
              but it can leave a bit of a sawtooth edge). Cut Printight with
              tinsnips and it may get a lasagna-edge. As I said, these tools are
              useful but not perfect. And I can understand why some people prefer
              the ease of cutting plastic plates with scissors or xacto.
              But since I often mount small plates on lead high-base, the nibbler
              lets me trim a plate right up to the beard, butt it against foundry
              type, etc.
              Eric Holub, SF
              --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Gerald Lange" <Bieler@...> wrote:
              > Yeah, I've got a zillion specialized tools for this, and dropped a few
              > more bucks tonight searching for that nibbler. Ah, Radio Shack, sort
              > of like going to Home Depot, except for the wait. Still junk when you
              > get it home though.
              >
              > I suppose this will irritate just about everyone but I'd recommend not
              > ever disturbing the length/width configuration of a plate, whether
              > steel-backed or polyester-backed. Except, of course, in the quick and
              > dirty or the desperate necessity. Why? The lay-down can easily get
              > distorted or twisted. Plain and simple.
            • Gerald Lange
              Just some information: Besides manufacturing magnetic flatbases and magnetic cylinders for the printing industry, Bunting actually makes non-magnetic cylinders
              Message 6 of 28 , Apr 7, 2007
                Just some information:

                Besides manufacturing magnetic flatbases and magnetic cylinders for
                the printing industry, Bunting actually makes non-magnetic cylinders
                for use with polyester-backed plates—and has for a "lot" longer than
                "boxcar plates" have been around. They never manufactured a
                non-magnetic flatbase though, I assume, market-wise, they saw no
                industry support since non-magnetic flatbases were readily available.
                I had a bunch of the old plastic newspaper bases at one point, and
                they were also made from type metal and wood (I have some very precise
                aluminum combination base material that was manufactured in Germany).
                Those old AWT and ATF catalogs list all sorts of base material.

                Gerald
                http://BielerPress.blogspot.com


                > >
                > > By "boxcar plate," do you mean you are using a polyester-backed plate
                > > w/film adhesive on a Bunting Magnetic base? If so, what is the
                > > rationale?
                > >
                >
                > Yes we use polyester-backed plates w/ film adhesive (a whole lot
                > easier to say boxcar plate), but it's not on a magnetic base, its
                > just an aluminum base. I don't know why I said bunting.
                >
                > But, even on a magnetic base I would use boxcar plates (and have
                > before, on other people's setup) and just adjust the press
                > accordingly, for a number of reasons, though mostly for quick
                > registration (we tape the plate upside down to the paper, properly
                > registered, and then run it through the press).
                >
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