• ## Re: [PPLetterpress] Re: Boxcar Base

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• We have a Universal I that came with a bunting base that almost fits the width of the bed (shy 1/16 ) and fills all but 2.5 inches of the length of the bed,
Message 1 of 28 , Apr 2, 2007
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We have a Universal I that came with a bunting base that almost fits
the width of the bed (shy 1/16") and fills all but 2.5 inches of the
length of the bed, the first of which is down near the gripper side,
the remaining 1.5" on the back end, which is where all the quoin
action happens to happen. It is as if some god of the press (is
there a god of printing?) had poured hot metal into the bed until its
height was roughly .85". Works fine with a boxcar plate (given the
fact we have an adjustable bed.)

Brandon

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
• Brandon By boxcar plate, do you mean you are using a polyester-backed plate w/film adhesive on a Bunting Magnetic base? If so, what is the rationale? Gerald
Message 2 of 28 , Apr 2, 2007
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Brandon

By "boxcar plate," do you mean you are using a polyester-backed plate
w/film adhesive on a Bunting Magnetic base? If so, what is the rationale?

Gerald
http://BielerPress.blogspot.com

>
> We have a Universal I that came with a bunting base that almost fits
> the width of the bed (shy 1/16") and fills all but 2.5 inches of the
> length of the bed, the first of which is down near the gripper side,
> the remaining 1.5" on the back end, which is where all the quoin
> action happens to happen. It is as if some god of the press (is
> there a god of printing?) had poured hot metal into the bed until its
> height was roughly .85". Works fine with a boxcar plate (given the
> fact we have an adjustable bed.)
>
> Brandon
>
>
• ... Yes we use polyester-backed plates w/ film adhesive (a whole lot easier to say boxcar plate), but it s not on a magnetic base, its just an aluminum base. I
Message 3 of 28 , Apr 3, 2007
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>
>
> By "boxcar plate," do you mean you are using a polyester-backed plate
> w/film adhesive on a Bunting Magnetic base? If so, what is the
> rationale?
>

Yes we use polyester-backed plates w/ film adhesive (a whole lot
easier to say boxcar plate), but it's not on a magnetic base, its
just an aluminum base. I don't know why I said bunting.

But, even on a magnetic base I would use boxcar plates (and have
before, on other people's setup) and just adjust the press
accordingly, for a number of reasons, though mostly for quick
registration (we tape the plate upside down to the paper, properly
registered, and then run it through the press). Yesterday we had a
last minute switch on a poster for a summer movie series-- the
client wanted to change "last of the unicorns" to "the last
unicorn." rather than order a new negative we chopped up the plate
with scissors and rearranged the words. I would never attempt
something like that on a steel backed plate.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
• Brandon A Kutrimmer works quite well for precision cutting on steel-backed plates. I did have an occasion to correct a steel-backed plate in the manner you
Message 4 of 28 , Apr 4, 2007
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Brandon

A Kutrimmer works quite well for precision cutting on steel-backed
plates. I did have an occasion to correct a steel-backed plate in the
manner you describe. Not something I'd suggest as common routine.

Don't know though that I'd also suggest this as a qualitative measure
for a polyester-backed vs. steel-backed kind of thing. That seems a
bit silly. Quick and dirty fixes are just what they are, and I'd
"hope" not a rationale for preference or practice.

Gerald
http://BielerPress.blogspot.com

>
> But, even on a magnetic base I would use boxcar plates (and have
> before, on other people's setup) and just adjust the press
> accordingly, for a number of reasons, though mostly for quick
> registration (we tape the plate upside down to the paper, properly
> registered, and then run it through the press). Yesterday we had a
> last minute switch on a poster for a summer movie series-- the
> client wanted to change "last of the unicorns" to "the last
> unicorn." rather than order a new negative we chopped up the plate
> with scissors and rearranged the words. I would never attempt
> something like that on a steel backed plate.
>
>
• While kutrimmers are handy for cutting straight lines, I find the need to cut in curves or around particular items- which I have tried on steel plates with
Message 5 of 28 , Apr 5, 2007
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While kutrimmers are handy for cutting straight lines, I find the
need to cut in curves or around particular items- which I have tried
on steel plates with snips but the results are difficult to come by
and often messy. As per quick and dirty fixes, while I'm a
perfectionist like the rest of us- an end result I can be proud of
is what I'm after and the number of paths I take to that result on a
day to day basis are widely varied. In this instance the job was a
favor and with a whole bunch of paying jobs waiting in queue, quick
and dirty sounded mighty delicious.

Brandon

On Apr 5, 2007, at 12:59 AM, Gerald Lange wrote:

> Brandon
>
> A Kutrimmer works quite well for precision cutting on steel-backed
> plates. I did have an occasion to correct a steel-backed plate in the
> manner you describe. Not something I'd suggest as common routine.
>
> Don't know though that I'd also suggest this as a qualitative measure
> for a polyester-backed vs. steel-backed kind of thing. That seems a
> bit silly. Quick and dirty fixes are just what they are, and I'd
> "hope" not a rationale for preference or practice.
>
> Gerald
> http://BielerPress.blogspot.com
>
> >
> > But, even on a magnetic base I would use boxcar plates (and have
> > before, on other people's setup) and just adjust the press
> > accordingly, for a number of reasons, though mostly for quick
> > registration (we tape the plate upside down to the paper, properly
> > registered, and then run it through the press). Yesterday we had a
> > last minute switch on a poster for a summer movie series-- the
> > client wanted to change "last of the unicorns" to "the last
> > unicorn." rather than order a new negative we chopped up the plate
> > with scissors and rearranged the words. I would never attempt
> > something like that on a steel backed plate.
> >
> >
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
• ... There are a variety of tools that will cut metal plates on an irregular path or a limited distance, but most will remove a width of metal. You can get a
Message 6 of 28 , Apr 5, 2007
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--- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, Blue Barnhouse
<letpresslist@...> wrote:
>
> While kutrimmers are handy for cutting straight lines, I find the
> need to cut in curves or around particular items- which I have tried
> on steel plates with snips but the results are difficult to come by
> and often messy.

There are a variety of tools that will cut metal plates on an
irregular path or a limited distance, but most will remove a width of
metal. You can get a "nibbler" at Radio Shack, and it takes a 1/16"
deep by 1/4" wide bite, which can be started from a hole drilled in
the middle of the plate; with practice, you can also use a jigsaw or
coping saw or jeweller's saw for a thinner path. I also use little
curved dental scissors, straight and curved tinsnips, and a French
version of the nibbler (it says "cisaille" on the package). All are
useful, none are perfect, and you'll need to file off edge-burrs. And
I warn you, working with cut metal like this, you really should have a
full first-aid kit and know how to make a butterfly bandage.
E Holub, SF
• Hi Eric Yeah, I ve got a zillion specialized tools for this, and dropped a few more bucks tonight searching for that nibbler. Ah, Radio Shack, sort of like
Message 7 of 28 , Apr 5, 2007
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Hi Eric

Yeah, I've got a zillion specialized tools for this, and dropped a few
more bucks tonight searching for that nibbler. Ah, Radio Shack, sort
of like going to Home Depot, except for the wait. Still junk when you
get it home though.

I suppose this will irritate just about everyone but I'd recommend not
ever disturbing the length/width configuration of a plate, whether
steel-backed or polyester-backed. Except, of course, in the quick and
dirty or the desperate necessity. Why? The lay-down can easily get
distorted or twisted. Plain and simple.

Gerald
http://BielerPress.blogspot.com

>
> There are a variety of tools that will cut metal plates on an
> irregular path or a limited distance, but most will remove a width of
> metal. You can get a "nibbler" at Radio Shack, and it takes a 1/16"
> deep by 1/4" wide bite, which can be started from a hole drilled in
> the middle of the plate; with practice, you can also use a jigsaw or
> coping saw or jeweller's saw for a thinner path. I also use little
> curved dental scissors, straight and curved tinsnips, and a French
> version of the nibbler (it says "cisaille" on the package). All are
> useful, none are perfect, and you'll need to file off edge-burrs. And
> I warn you, working with cut metal like this, you really should have a
> full first-aid kit and know how to make a butterfly bandage.
> E Holub, SF
>
• Gerald, I should add that I m using these tools on Miraclon/Rigilon which has a fairly rigid metal backing. A more flexible back, as on Printight, can be more
Message 8 of 28 , Apr 6, 2007
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Gerald, I should add that I'm using these tools on Miraclon/Rigilon
which has a fairly rigid metal backing. A more flexible back, as on
Printight, can be more distorted by tools with a short cut (except
maybe the nibbler, which supports the remaining material as it cuts,
but it can leave a bit of a sawtooth edge). Cut Printight with
tinsnips and it may get a lasagna-edge. As I said, these tools are
useful but not perfect. And I can understand why some people prefer
the ease of cutting plastic plates with scissors or xacto.
But since I often mount small plates on lead high-base, the nibbler
lets me trim a plate right up to the beard, butt it against foundry
type, etc.
Eric Holub, SF
--- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Gerald Lange" <Bieler@...> wrote:
> Yeah, I've got a zillion specialized tools for this, and dropped a few
> more bucks tonight searching for that nibbler. Ah, Radio Shack, sort
> of like going to Home Depot, except for the wait. Still junk when you
> get it home though.
>
> I suppose this will irritate just about everyone but I'd recommend not
> ever disturbing the length/width configuration of a plate, whether
> steel-backed or polyester-backed. Except, of course, in the quick and
> dirty or the desperate necessity. Why? The lay-down can easily get
> distorted or twisted. Plain and simple.
• Just some information: Besides manufacturing magnetic flatbases and magnetic cylinders for the printing industry, Bunting actually makes non-magnetic cylinders
Message 9 of 28 , Apr 7, 2007
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Just some information:

Besides manufacturing magnetic flatbases and magnetic cylinders for
the printing industry, Bunting actually makes non-magnetic cylinders
for use with polyester-backed platesÂ—and has for a "lot" longer than
"boxcar plates" have been around. They never manufactured a
non-magnetic flatbase though, I assume, market-wise, they saw no
industry support since non-magnetic flatbases were readily available.
I had a bunch of the old plastic newspaper bases at one point, and
they were also made from type metal and wood (I have some very precise
aluminum combination base material that was manufactured in Germany).
Those old AWT and ATF catalogs list all sorts of base material.

Gerald
http://BielerPress.blogspot.com

> >
> > By "boxcar plate," do you mean you are using a polyester-backed plate
> > w/film adhesive on a Bunting Magnetic base? If so, what is the
> > rationale?
> >
>
> Yes we use polyester-backed plates w/ film adhesive (a whole lot
> easier to say boxcar plate), but it's not on a magnetic base, its
> just an aluminum base. I don't know why I said bunting.
>
> But, even on a magnetic base I would use boxcar plates (and have
> before, on other people's setup) and just adjust the press
> accordingly, for a number of reasons, though mostly for quick
> registration (we tape the plate upside down to the paper, properly
> registered, and then run it through the press).
>
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