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Re:resolution for negatives to make polymerplates

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  • Lance Williams
    Mo, One other observation on handling volumes of email: Use your email program s FILTER options to push mail from different lists into separate folders. I
    Message 1 of 20 , Mar 24, 2007
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      Mo,

      One other observation on handling volumes of email:

      Use your email program's "FILTER" options to push mail from different lists
      into separate folders. I do this for APA, ECLetterpress, Intertype World,
      LETPRESS, Miehle Vertical World, NE Letterpress Guild, PPLetterpress
      SFLetterpress and Typecasting, along with the 15 email accounts I collect
      mail from. That way I know my really personal stuff doesn't get lost in
      the shuffle. I can also scan down the subject lines from a given group and
      just delete those things that I am not interested in (I usually quickly
      scan all the messages, though....)

      If you have not set this up already, I can lend you a had, it takes a
      little tweaking to get things just right for some of the groups, as to what
      to look for to redirect the message to another folder, but mine works
      flawlessly now... I have 23 incoming mail folders and it helps me keep
      things organized...

      - Lance

      > [Original Message]
      > From: <wa0dfw@...>
      > To: <PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com>
      > Date: 3/24/2007 1:26:27 AM
      > Subject: Re: [PPLetterpress] Re:resolution for negatives to make polymer
      plates
      >
      > Due to the incredible number of emails coming into my inbox from both
      > Letpress and PPLetterpress, I have decided to unsubscribe from
      > PPLetterpress. Though I find the subjects fascinating, I simply
      > cannot handle all the emails.
      >
      > Also, I do very little printing involving photopolymers, so I had to
      > choose one or the other, so I will remain on Letpress and anyone who
      > wishes to contact me can do so there or directly at wa0dfw@....
      >
      > Regards, and no ill feelings at all,
      >
      > Mo - aka
      >
      > Leonard W. Molberg
      > dba The L. W. Molberg Press
      > Trade Letterpress and Hot Type
      > Denver, Colorado
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > Yahoo! Groups Links
      >
      >
      >
    • Bev Dittberner
      Hello, this is my first post- I run the prepress dept at Full Circle Press, One thing I haven t seen mentioned in this thread is that you need to think about
      Message 2 of 20 , Mar 25, 2007
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        Hello, this is my first post- I run the prepress dept at
        Full Circle Press, One thing I haven't seen mentioned in this thread
        is that you need to think about what you want your final outcome
        to be- If you require pixalation for a "screened" look, or area that
        would otherwise be a second color in a lighter PMS, but need to cut
        corners
        leaving a line drawing or area in grayscale will achieve this.

        100% black is required for a plate without pixalation.

        Making a plate that has an image that has solid areas that blend out
        to tiny dots can be tricky. It's a dance between exposure and
        washout.

        I've done pencil drawings and scanned them into Photoshop as full
        color scans, then changed the mode to grayscale, then adjusted the
        contrast until the black was as dense as I could get it and still
        keep the "scetched" look of the drawing. As long as my file can
        convert to an ESP in CS2 my file will make it to the RIPP and be
        re-written to 2400 dpi.


        The trick is to do a double wash out when making the plate.
        When you expose the plate,the rule of thumb is the smaller the window
        to the light, the longer the exposure- however when you
        have a drawing where you have a solid area that blends out to an area
        that is basically a lot of tiny dots, you don't want to lose the dots
        in your wash out- SO you expose for the solid and save the dots in
        the wash out process. You wash the plate for 1 and half to 2 minutes,
        then put the plate in the oven and baked it for 5 - 7 minutes, then
        wash it again , checking every30 - seconds until you get a clean
        plate that still has the tiny dots.,

        Bev

        hope this helps
      • Gerald Lange
        Bev I m not sure why the double washout should work, though I ve heard it mentioned here before. I don t see how the drying out process (theoretically, or
        Message 3 of 20 , Mar 25, 2007
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          Bev

          I'm not sure why the double washout should work, though I've heard it
          mentioned here before. I don't see how the drying out process
          (theoretically, or technically) would contribute (since it has no effect
          on the solubility of the photopolymer). But if it works. . .

          Traditionally, and this is not just limited to processing photopolymer
          plates, the exposure is staged for the various elements by masking them
          off. For instance, when a solid has reached its maximum exposure, the
          exposure is halted, the solid masked off, and exposure continued for the
          remaining elements; fine dots and lines getting the maximum exposure.

          Bit more tricky though to achieve the gradation you have mentioned.
          Before photomechanical engraving lost the personal touch of the
          craftsman there were all kinds of tricks and techniques employed to
          achieve certain effects, but most of that information is now only
          available in long out of print manuals.

          I did a series of plates for a printmaker a while back where dampened
          Japanese silk tissue was used as intermediate masking between elements
          of the imaging and that served for a very interesting effect.

          Gerald
          http://BielerPress.blogspot.com



          Bev Dittberner wrote:
          > Hello, this is my first post- I run the prepress dept at
          > Full Circle Press, One thing I haven't seen mentioned in this thread
          > is that you need to think about what you want your final outcome
          > to be- If you require pixalation for a "screened" look, or area that
          > would otherwise be a second color in a lighter PMS, but need to cut
          > corners
          > leaving a line drawing or area in grayscale will achieve this.
          >
          > 100% black is required for a plate without pixalation.
          >
          > Making a plate that has an image that has solid areas that blend out
          > to tiny dots can be tricky. It's a dance between exposure and
          > washout.
          >
          > I've done pencil drawings and scanned them into Photoshop as full
          > color scans, then changed the mode to grayscale, then adjusted the
          > contrast until the black was as dense as I could get it and still
          > keep the "scetched" look of the drawing. As long as my file can
          > convert to an ESP in CS2 my file will make it to the RIPP and be
          > re-written to 2400 dpi.
          >
          >
          > The trick is to do a double wash out when making the plate.
          > When you expose the plate,the rule of thumb is the smaller the window
          > to the light, the longer the exposure- however when you
          > have a drawing where you have a solid area that blends out to an area
          > that is basically a lot of tiny dots, you don't want to lose the dots
          > in your wash out- SO you expose for the solid and save the dots in
          > the wash out process. You wash the plate for 1 and half to 2 minutes,
          > then put the plate in the oven and baked it for 5 - 7 minutes, then
          > wash it again , checking every30 - seconds until you get a clean
          > plate that still has the tiny dots.,
          >
          > Bev
          >
          > hope this helps
          >
          >
          >
          >
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