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Re: [PPLetterpress] Re:resolution for negatives to make polymerplates

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  • Lance Williams
    Mo, You can turn off emails, and remain a member of the group, as you may well know... I have done this to several YAHOO Groups that I belong to, and just
    Message 1 of 20 , Mar 24, 2007
      Mo,

      You can "turn off" emails, and remain a member of the group, as you may
      well know... I have done this to several YAHOO Groups that I belong to,
      and just drop into the Yahoo Groups Site occasionally and search the
      archives for things that interest me...

      - Lance Williams
      Williams Stationery Co.
      Camden, New York
      APA #785


      > [Original Message]
      > From: <wa0dfw@...>
      > To: <PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com>
      > Date: 3/24/2007 1:26:27 AM
      > Subject: Re: [PPLetterpress] Re:resolution for negatives to make
      polymerplates
      >
      > Due to the incredible number of emails coming into my inbox from both
      > Letpress and PPLetterpress, I have decided to unsubscribe from
      > PPLetterpress. Though I find the subjects fascinating, I simply
      > cannot handle all the emails.
      >
      > Also, I do very little printing involving photopolymers, so I had to
      > choose one or the other, so I will remain on Letpress and anyone who
      > wishes to contact me can do so there or directly at wa0dfw@....
      >
      > Regards, and no ill feelings at all,
      >
      > Mo - aka
      >
      > Leonard W. Molberg
      > dba The L. W. Molberg Press
      > Trade Letterpress and Hot Type
      > Denver, Colorado
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > Yahoo! Groups Links
      >
      >
      >
    • Lance Williams
      Mo, One other observation on handling volumes of email: Use your email program s FILTER options to push mail from different lists into separate folders. I
      Message 2 of 20 , Mar 24, 2007
        Mo,

        One other observation on handling volumes of email:

        Use your email program's "FILTER" options to push mail from different lists
        into separate folders. I do this for APA, ECLetterpress, Intertype World,
        LETPRESS, Miehle Vertical World, NE Letterpress Guild, PPLetterpress
        SFLetterpress and Typecasting, along with the 15 email accounts I collect
        mail from. That way I know my really personal stuff doesn't get lost in
        the shuffle. I can also scan down the subject lines from a given group and
        just delete those things that I am not interested in (I usually quickly
        scan all the messages, though....)

        If you have not set this up already, I can lend you a had, it takes a
        little tweaking to get things just right for some of the groups, as to what
        to look for to redirect the message to another folder, but mine works
        flawlessly now... I have 23 incoming mail folders and it helps me keep
        things organized...

        - Lance

        > [Original Message]
        > From: <wa0dfw@...>
        > To: <PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com>
        > Date: 3/24/2007 1:26:27 AM
        > Subject: Re: [PPLetterpress] Re:resolution for negatives to make polymer
        plates
        >
        > Due to the incredible number of emails coming into my inbox from both
        > Letpress and PPLetterpress, I have decided to unsubscribe from
        > PPLetterpress. Though I find the subjects fascinating, I simply
        > cannot handle all the emails.
        >
        > Also, I do very little printing involving photopolymers, so I had to
        > choose one or the other, so I will remain on Letpress and anyone who
        > wishes to contact me can do so there or directly at wa0dfw@....
        >
        > Regards, and no ill feelings at all,
        >
        > Mo - aka
        >
        > Leonard W. Molberg
        > dba The L. W. Molberg Press
        > Trade Letterpress and Hot Type
        > Denver, Colorado
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > Yahoo! Groups Links
        >
        >
        >
      • Bev Dittberner
        Hello, this is my first post- I run the prepress dept at Full Circle Press, One thing I haven t seen mentioned in this thread is that you need to think about
        Message 3 of 20 , Mar 25, 2007
          Hello, this is my first post- I run the prepress dept at
          Full Circle Press, One thing I haven't seen mentioned in this thread
          is that you need to think about what you want your final outcome
          to be- If you require pixalation for a "screened" look, or area that
          would otherwise be a second color in a lighter PMS, but need to cut
          corners
          leaving a line drawing or area in grayscale will achieve this.

          100% black is required for a plate without pixalation.

          Making a plate that has an image that has solid areas that blend out
          to tiny dots can be tricky. It's a dance between exposure and
          washout.

          I've done pencil drawings and scanned them into Photoshop as full
          color scans, then changed the mode to grayscale, then adjusted the
          contrast until the black was as dense as I could get it and still
          keep the "scetched" look of the drawing. As long as my file can
          convert to an ESP in CS2 my file will make it to the RIPP and be
          re-written to 2400 dpi.


          The trick is to do a double wash out when making the plate.
          When you expose the plate,the rule of thumb is the smaller the window
          to the light, the longer the exposure- however when you
          have a drawing where you have a solid area that blends out to an area
          that is basically a lot of tiny dots, you don't want to lose the dots
          in your wash out- SO you expose for the solid and save the dots in
          the wash out process. You wash the plate for 1 and half to 2 minutes,
          then put the plate in the oven and baked it for 5 - 7 minutes, then
          wash it again , checking every30 - seconds until you get a clean
          plate that still has the tiny dots.,

          Bev

          hope this helps
        • Gerald Lange
          Bev I m not sure why the double washout should work, though I ve heard it mentioned here before. I don t see how the drying out process (theoretically, or
          Message 4 of 20 , Mar 25, 2007
            Bev

            I'm not sure why the double washout should work, though I've heard it
            mentioned here before. I don't see how the drying out process
            (theoretically, or technically) would contribute (since it has no effect
            on the solubility of the photopolymer). But if it works. . .

            Traditionally, and this is not just limited to processing photopolymer
            plates, the exposure is staged for the various elements by masking them
            off. For instance, when a solid has reached its maximum exposure, the
            exposure is halted, the solid masked off, and exposure continued for the
            remaining elements; fine dots and lines getting the maximum exposure.

            Bit more tricky though to achieve the gradation you have mentioned.
            Before photomechanical engraving lost the personal touch of the
            craftsman there were all kinds of tricks and techniques employed to
            achieve certain effects, but most of that information is now only
            available in long out of print manuals.

            I did a series of plates for a printmaker a while back where dampened
            Japanese silk tissue was used as intermediate masking between elements
            of the imaging and that served for a very interesting effect.

            Gerald
            http://BielerPress.blogspot.com



            Bev Dittberner wrote:
            > Hello, this is my first post- I run the prepress dept at
            > Full Circle Press, One thing I haven't seen mentioned in this thread
            > is that you need to think about what you want your final outcome
            > to be- If you require pixalation for a "screened" look, or area that
            > would otherwise be a second color in a lighter PMS, but need to cut
            > corners
            > leaving a line drawing or area in grayscale will achieve this.
            >
            > 100% black is required for a plate without pixalation.
            >
            > Making a plate that has an image that has solid areas that blend out
            > to tiny dots can be tricky. It's a dance between exposure and
            > washout.
            >
            > I've done pencil drawings and scanned them into Photoshop as full
            > color scans, then changed the mode to grayscale, then adjusted the
            > contrast until the black was as dense as I could get it and still
            > keep the "scetched" look of the drawing. As long as my file can
            > convert to an ESP in CS2 my file will make it to the RIPP and be
            > re-written to 2400 dpi.
            >
            >
            > The trick is to do a double wash out when making the plate.
            > When you expose the plate,the rule of thumb is the smaller the window
            > to the light, the longer the exposure- however when you
            > have a drawing where you have a solid area that blends out to an area
            > that is basically a lot of tiny dots, you don't want to lose the dots
            > in your wash out- SO you expose for the solid and save the dots in
            > the wash out process. You wash the plate for 1 and half to 2 minutes,
            > then put the plate in the oven and baked it for 5 - 7 minutes, then
            > wash it again , checking every30 - seconds until you get a clean
            > plate that still has the tiny dots.,
            >
            > Bev
            >
            > hope this helps
            >
            >
            >
            >
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