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Re: [PPLetterpress] Re: Plastic Plates Curling...

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  • Daniel Morris
    Gerald and list, Thanks for the input and suggestions. I should have mentioned these are brand new plates from Boxcar. These are only the second plates I
    Message 1 of 27 , Feb 4, 2007
      Gerald and list,
      Thanks for the input and suggestions. I should have mentioned these are brand new plates from Boxcar. These are only the second plates I have ordered and I had the same problem with the last ones, only to a lesser and more manageable degree. This time the curling is causing the plate to pull away from the adhesive backing and lift off the base at the edges to the point where the dead area near the edge is sitting above type high and inking.
      This is very frustrating because this is a job for a friend who is very eager to drop his already finished records in these jackets!

      Daniel Morris
      The Arm Letterpress
      Brooklyn, NY


      ----- Original Message ----
      From: Gerald Lange <Bieler@...>
      To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Saturday, February 3, 2007 7:27:28 PM
      Subject: [PPLetterpress] Re: Plastic Plates Curling...













      Daniel



      I've not encountered this but in the early years of photopolymer

      (1960s) they used a "carbon dioxide bath" to revitalize the plates.

      Nothing like that is available today but mainly I suspect because

      plates are considered disposable. Basically, save your film negs.



      The photopolymerization process never really stops and there are

      environmental issues as well ("ozone attack" is the primary culprit)

      and thus plates lose their resilience and tack fairly quickly. The

      process can be halted somewhat by longer post exposure and delayed by

      the use of antiozonants but I don't know that it makes any real sense

      to store them indefinitely though, since once the tack and resilience

      wanes, they no longer retain their original printing qualities.



      I'm assuming you are reusing plates? If not, contact your platemaker.



      Gerald

      http://BielerPress. blogspot. com



      >

      > I have a job on the press using plastic backed photopolymer plates

      and sheet adhesive

      > backing, but the plates are warping like crazy and peeling off the

      base. What could cause

      > this to happen? Does it have anything to do with the fact that I

      have really heavy areas of

      > solid in the artwork? My studio has been a bit cold, if I heat it

      up a bit will these things sit

      > flat?

      >

      > Daniel Morris

      > The Arm Letterpress

      > Brooklyn, NY

      >














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    • Gerald Lange
      Daniel My best guess would be that it has to do somehow with humidity and temperature? Completely unrelated. But I know you recondition Vandercooks and have a
      Message 2 of 27 , Feb 4, 2007
        Daniel

        My best guess would be that it has to do somehow with humidity and
        temperature?

        Completely unrelated. But I know you recondition Vandercooks and have
        a question. Any suggestions on taking a 320G apart to get it out of a
        room that only has a standard door frame. I assume complete
        disassembly and turning the frame on its side? This is a press located
        at a LA educational facility and they just want it out of there. The
        press got walled in at some point. I've looked at it and it appears to
        be fully intact, clean except for lack of use, with a lot of the
        extras they provided for that model.

        Gerald
        http://BielerPress.blogspot.com


        >
        > Gerald and list,
        > Thanks for the input and suggestions. I should have mentioned these
        are brand new plates from Boxcar. These are only the second plates I
        have ordered and I had the same problem with the last ones, only to a
        lesser and more manageable degree. This time the curling is causing
        the plate to pull away from the adhesive backing and lift off the base
        at the edges to the point where the dead area near the edge is sitting
        above type high and inking.
        > This is very frustrating because this is a job for a friend who is
        very eager to drop his already finished records in these jackets!
        >
        > Daniel Morris
        > The Arm Letterpress
        > Brooklyn, NY
        >
        >
        > ----- Original Message ----
        > From: Gerald Lange <Bieler@...>
        > To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
        > Sent: Saturday, February 3, 2007 7:27:28 PM
        > Subject: [PPLetterpress] Re: Plastic Plates Curling...
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > Daniel
        >
        >
        >
        > I've not encountered this but in the early years of photopolymer
        >
        > (1960s) they used a "carbon dioxide bath" to revitalize the plates.
        >
        > Nothing like that is available today but mainly I suspect because
        >
        > plates are considered disposable. Basically, save your film negs.
        >
        >
        >
        > The photopolymerization process never really stops and there are
        >
        > environmental issues as well ("ozone attack" is the primary culprit)
        >
        > and thus plates lose their resilience and tack fairly quickly. The
        >
        > process can be halted somewhat by longer post exposure and delayed by
        >
        > the use of antiozonants but I don't know that it makes any real sense
        >
        > to store them indefinitely though, since once the tack and resilience
        >
        > wanes, they no longer retain their original printing qualities.
        >
        >
        >
        > I'm assuming you are reusing plates? If not, contact your platemaker.
        >
        >
        >
        > Gerald
        >
        > http://BielerPress. blogspot. com
        >
        >
        >
        > >
        >
        > > I have a job on the press using plastic backed photopolymer plates
        >
        > and sheet adhesive
        >
        > > backing, but the plates are warping like crazy and peeling off the
        >
        > base. What could cause
        >
        > > this to happen? Does it have anything to do with the fact that I
        >
        > have really heavy areas of
        >
        > > solid in the artwork? My studio has been a bit cold, if I heat it
        >
        > up a bit will these things sit
        >
        > > flat?
        >
        > >
        >
        > > Daniel Morris
        >
        > > The Arm Letterpress
        >
        > > Brooklyn, NY
        >
        > >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
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        >
      • Daniel Morris
        Gerald, The 320G is very simple Vandercook. The trip mechanism can be disconnected and disassembled, the shelving box can be removed with a few screws, the
        Message 3 of 27 , Feb 4, 2007
          Gerald,
          The 320G is very simple Vandercook. The trip mechanism can be disconnected and disassembled, the shelving box can be removed with a few screws, the feed boards taken off, the cylinder rolled off the end of the bed (mark the teeth first) then you can remove the press bed from the legs which are tied together with threaded rods. I have never taken one of my presses this far, but Arie Koelewyn and Dave Celani did it with a 325G not too long ago. That press is identical to the 320G with the exception of its width.
          Below I have attached some text from Arie's report that may help you a bit. There is a .pdf of the manual for this press on the Boxcar site (http://www.boxcarpress.com/flywheel/) which might help you to visualise it.
          By all means grab this press if you can. And when you troubleshooting it let me know.

          Daniel Morris
          The Arm Letterpress
          Brooklyn, NY


          From Arie:
          I promised you all a report on the move of the Vandercook 325A (SN:
          20307) that Lance Williams found in Frankenmuth, MI and reported on
          this list a while ago. The press is now safely in my garage and the
          move went fairly smoothly. It still needs to be reassembled, but that
          doesn't seem it will be as tricky as removing it from the basement it
          was found in. You might recall that the press was in the basement of a
          touristy country gift store. The press had been used to print bumper
          stickers for sale to the tourists until last December.

          The press had to be disassembled to get through a 34" choke point on the
          way to the back stairs. Before the move I had assembled an A-frame
          cradle for the bed and a shallow cradle that looked like kids sled to
          hold the cylinder. These went down the stairs the press had to come up,
          so I was pretty confident that they'd come up again with the press parts
          on them.

          I was very lucky to have three good friends to help me with the move.
          Joe Warren is probably familiar to most on the list. He and I live only
          a few miles apart and often help each other out. Fred Stahmner is a
          friend from work who can't quite figure out what all the fuss is about
          all of this cast iron and lead, but was willing to lend a hand.
          Finally, but not least, is new friend Dave Celani, also from this list.
          I'd never met Dave before this move, but he wrote and volunteered to
          meet us at the press and spent the first day helping us disassemble the
          Vandercook and getting the parts into their cradles. His toolkit is
          much better than mine and made the whole process much easier than it
          might have been. Thanks guys!

          The first order of the day was to move the press under a massive I-beam
          near the side of the room. We put two 2x6 skids under it and used three
          1" iron pipes to roll it into place. Next was removal of the cylinder
          carriage. At first we tried to remove it from the back of the press.
          We removed the stops but it was still binding on something and wouldn't
          go back further than the gripper trip assembly. We removed a few more
          small bits, but it was no go. So finally we turned the press around and
          went off the front. That worked. When the cylinder was at the end of
          the press we rigged a number of straps around it and suspended it from a
          come-along . As we were lowering to down to the cradle the come-along
          slipped about 6 inches and provided the scariest moment of the move.
          After a couple of deep breaths, the cylinder was slowly lowered to the
          cradle on the floor. Next the bed was removed from the cabinet in
          essentially the same manner, but we substituted a substantial chain
          puller for the come-along . We rigged the cradle on the floor so that
          the side of the A-frame it would rest upon was flat and lowered the bed
          onto it after the cabinet had been pulled away by hand. Then the cradle
          was pulled upright by the chain puller.

          After the slow disassembly, moving the press through the choke point and
          staging the pieces at the foot of the stairs went smoothly and quickly.
          At that point Dave had to leave and the rest of us were hungry. The
          three of us retreated next door to Zehnder's and had a family style
          chicken dinner. Expensive but tasty and convenient. Though they did
          put us scruffy looking types right next to the kitchen so most of the
          other customers wouldn't have to look at us.

          When we were fed, rehydrated and rested a bit, we went back to the
          store. The owner had identified a number of other letterpress items
          that he did not want any more. I volunteered to take anything he didn't
          want. In addition to the press, there was a 30" "Perfect Gem" paper
          cutter, a table saw (brand unknown, but not a Hammond), a Bradley
          stencil cutting machine, 4 or 5 slug cutter, 3 manual rule miterers and
          one powered, one combination slug cutter/miterer, a Golding padding
          press and a few miscellaneous bits. We also found a few Vandercook
          parts including a chase. These were carried upstairs and taken home at
          the end of the first day.

          I had arranged to borrow a Ford F350 pickup from another friend at work
          and a flatbed trailer from the father of another. The truck owner had
          picked up the trailer and we were about to trade car keys when that all
          fell apart. He was summarily fired that afternoon and the truck and
          trailer both went home. A few quick phone calls and I had arranged with
          the trailer's owner to also borrow the van he uses to pull the trailer,
          but only for one day. So the second day of this adventure began with a
          westward drive to pick up van and trailer and then drive eastward to
          Frankenmuth. We (Joe, Fred & I) arrived without incident, despite my
          lack of experience in driving with a trailer. We had arranged to meet
          at the store with a tow truck operator to help pull the heavy bits up
          the stairs. They brought along two tow trucks and a flat bed.

          First the flat bed pulled up to the loading dock and we rolled the paper
          cutter (which was on ground level) with a pallet jack out the dock door
          and onto the flat bed. From the flatbed truck onto the trailer was as
          easy as it gets. We didn't even have to take anything off the cutter.
          Next was pulling the press bed up the stairs and out through a door in
          the left side of the stairwell. The tow truck operators (Reinert &
          Bender) used one truck to pull it up the stairs (by sticking its boom
          into the doorway) and a second to twist it around and out the door. It
          was a tight fit but after an hour or so it was sitting on the ground
          outside. These guys were awesome: careful and methodical. The cabinet
          went up by hand and the cradle with the cylinder went up with a single
          truck's winch. We loaded the bed onto the flat bed truck and then onto
          the trailer. The cylinder and cabinet went into place by hand. By then
          the tow truck crew (Dennis, Bob and Larry) had been there three hours.
          Luckily it had been a slow day for them, so that wasn't a problem. I
          paid them, gave them each a nice tip and felt I got a real good deal for
          my money.

          With the trailer all loaded up, all we needed to do was tie things down
          and drive home. That was when it decided to rain. Buckets of rain.
          Not really any time to cover things and not much to cover things with
          anyway. This was my biggest mistake. Rain wasn't in the forecast and I
          didn't think to bring plastic sheeting to cover the press parts.
          Everything got soaked. A half hour later the rain let up and we
          finished tying things down and then drove for home.

          Unloading and storing everything in my garage was anticlimactic and
          fairly straightforward. No more room for cars in my garage!

          With the exception of the rain, everything went pretty much as I planned
          it. No major disasters and another press that was going to get walled
          up and forgotten, or scrapped, will have quite a few more years of
          useful life as a printing press. With luck it will end up at a new
          Book Arts program here in town.

          I have ideas for doing this kind of thing better next time, but it may
          be a while. I'm full up for now.

          The careful reader will have noticed that we left the saw behind. It's
          buried in hard to get to corner of the basement under a bunch of junk.
          By the end of day two we didn't have much oomph left (not to mention tie
          down straps) and decided to come back for the saw another day. The
          store owner was very pleased to get rid of all this stuff and get much
          more room that he could convert into retail space. The saw is out of
          his way and he was amenable to waiting a couple of months until I can
          get to it.

          ---Arie Koelewyn
          The Paper Airplane Press
          East Lansing, MI
          USA

          ----- Original Message ----
          From: Gerald Lange <Bieler@...>
          To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
          Sent: Sunday, February 4, 2007 10:36:16 AM
          Subject: [PPLetterpress] Re: Plastic Plates Curling...













          Daniel



          My best guess would be that it has to do somehow with humidity and

          temperature?



          Completely unrelated. But I know you recondition Vandercooks and have

          a question. Any suggestions on taking a 320G apart to get it out of a

          room that only has a standard door frame. I assume complete

          disassembly and turning the frame on its side? This is a press located

          at a LA educational facility and they just want it out of there. The

          press got walled in at some point. I've looked at it and it appears to

          be fully intact, clean except for lack of use, with a lot of the

          extras they provided for that model.



          Gerald

          http://BielerPress. blogspot. com



          >

          > Gerald and list,

          > Thanks for the input and suggestions. I should have mentioned these

          are brand new plates from Boxcar. These are only the second plates I

          have ordered and I had the same problem with the last ones, only to a

          lesser and more manageable degree. This time the curling is causing

          the plate to pull away from the adhesive backing and lift off the base

          at the edges to the point where the dead area near the edge is sitting

          above type high and inking.

          > This is very frustrating because this is a job for a friend who is

          very eager to drop his already finished records in these jackets!

          >

          > Daniel Morris

          > The Arm Letterpress

          > Brooklyn, NY

          >

          >

          > ----- Original Message ----

          > From: Gerald Lange <Bieler@...>

          > To: PPLetterpress@ yahoogroups. com

          > Sent: Saturday, February 3, 2007 7:27:28 PM

          > Subject: [PPLetterpress] Re: Plastic Plates Curling...

          >

          >

          >

          >

          >

          >

          >

          >

          >

          >

          >

          >

          >

          > Daniel

          >

          >

          >

          > I've not encountered this but in the early years of photopolymer

          >

          > (1960s) they used a "carbon dioxide bath" to revitalize the plates.

          >

          > Nothing like that is available today but mainly I suspect because

          >

          > plates are considered disposable. Basically, save your film negs.

          >

          >

          >

          > The photopolymerization process never really stops and there are

          >

          > environmental issues as well ("ozone attack" is the primary culprit)

          >

          > and thus plates lose their resilience and tack fairly quickly. The

          >

          > process can be halted somewhat by longer post exposure and delayed by

          >

          > the use of antiozonants but I don't know that it makes any real sense

          >

          > to store them indefinitely though, since once the tack and resilience

          >

          > wanes, they no longer retain their original printing qualities.

          >

          >

          >

          > I'm assuming you are reusing plates? If not, contact your platemaker.

          >

          >

          >

          > Gerald

          >

          > http://BielerPress. blogspot. com

          >

          >

          >

          > >

          >

          > > I have a job on the press using plastic backed photopolymer plates

          >

          > and sheet adhesive

          >

          > > backing, but the plates are warping like crazy and peeling off the

          >

          > base. What could cause

          >

          > > this to happen? Does it have anything to do with the fact that I

          >

          > have really heavy areas of

          >

          > > solid in the artwork? My studio has been a bit cold, if I heat it

          >

          > up a bit will these things sit

          >

          > > flat?

          >

          > >

          >

          > > Daniel Morris

          >

          > > The Arm Letterpress

          >

          > > Brooklyn, NY

          >

          > >

          >

          >

          >

          >

          >

          >

          >

          >

          >

          >

          >

          >

          >

          >

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        • Gerald Lange
          Daniel Thank you very much. I don t want the press for myself (well, I wouldn t mind it, but my wife would kill me). With this information though I think I can
          Message 4 of 27 , Feb 4, 2007
            Daniel

            Thank you very much. I don't want the press for myself (well, I
            wouldn't mind it, but my wife would kill me). With this information
            though I think I can convince the facility to let someone (who might
            want it) come in and get it out rather than have the facility pay a
            rigger and it end up god knows where.

            Gerald
            http://BielerPress.blogspot.com


            >
            > Gerald,
            > The 320G is very simple Vandercook. The trip mechanism can be
            disconnected and disassembled, the shelving box can be removed with a
            few screws, the feed boards taken off, the cylinder rolled off the end
            of the bed (mark the teeth first) then you can remove the press bed
            from the legs which are tied together with threaded rods. I have
            never taken one of my presses this far, but Arie Koelewyn and Dave
            Celani did it with a 325G not too long ago. That press is identical
            to the 320G with the exception of its width.
            > Below I have attached some text from Arie's report that may help you
            a bit. There is a .pdf of the manual for this press on the Boxcar
            site (http://www.boxcarpress.com/flywheel/) which might help you to
            visualise it.
            > By all means grab this press if you can. And when you
            troubleshooting it let me know.
            >
            > Daniel Morris
            > The Arm Letterpress
            > Brooklyn, NY
            >
          • Arie Koelewyn
            Gerald & Daniel: That press still is not reassembled. Oh the joys of working with an academic bureaucracy. I have some photos of the press in pieces in the
            Message 5 of 27 , Feb 4, 2007
              Gerald & Daniel:

              That press still is not reassembled. Oh the joys of working with an
              academic bureaucracy.

              I have some photos of the press in pieces in the various cradles I built
              for them. They're a bit fuzzy; I had dropped the camera into the river
              for a few brief seconds shortly before this move and it appears the
              condensation left a film of dirt somewhere in the works. The camera
              gave up the ghost not long after.

              Anyway let me know if you want to see them. There were plenty of
              difficulties with this move, but disassembly wasn't one of them. Except
              for the slippage in the come-along it went pretty smoothly.

              ---Arie Koelewyn
              The Paper Airplane Press
              East Lansing, MI
              USA



              Gerald Lange wrote:
              > Daniel
              >
              > Thank you very much. I don't want the press for myself (well, I
              > wouldn't mind it, but my wife would kill me). With this information
              > though I think I can convince the facility to let someone (who might
              > want it) come in and get it out rather than have the facility pay a
              > rigger and it end up god knows where.
              >
              > Gerald
              > http://BielerPress.blogspot.com
              >
              >
              >
              >> Gerald,
              >> The 320G is very simple Vandercook. The trip mechanism can be
              >>
              > disconnected and disassembled, the shelving box can be removed with a
              > few screws, the feed boards taken off, the cylinder rolled off the end
              > of the bed (mark the teeth first) then you can remove the press bed
              > from the legs which are tied together with threaded rods. I have
              > never taken one of my presses this far, but Arie Koelewyn and Dave
              > Celani did it with a 325G not too long ago. That press is identical
              > to the 320G with the exception of its width.
              >
              >> Below I have attached some text from Arie's report that may help you
              >>
              > a bit. There is a .pdf of the manual for this press on the Boxcar
              > site (http://www.boxcarpress.com/flywheel/) which might help you to
              > visualise it.
              >
              >> By all means grab this press if you can. And when you
              >>
              > troubleshooting it let me know.
              >
              >> Daniel Morris
              >> The Arm Letterpress
              >> Brooklyn, NY
              >>
              >>
              >
              >
              >
              >
            • alex brooks
              there s a 325G at the University art building that belongs to me. it s completely disassembled, with the bed on a heavy duty palette that s been sitting in a
              Message 6 of 27 , Feb 4, 2007
                there's a 325G at the University art building that "belongs" to me.
                it's completely disassembled, with the bed on a heavy duty palette
                that's been sitting in a hallway, unlocked & unprotected from thieves
                or vandals for about 10 years. Soon I'll get a place to put it and
                we'll move it out of there and reassemble it. It will double my max
                printing size!

                the press is odd in that there's an inking "plate" underneath the
                feed board, and the inking rollers follow the impression cylinder
                instead of leading it. One step away from hand-inking

                one of these days,
                alex
                press817

                On Feb 4, 2007, at 5:44 PM, Daniel Morris wrote:

                > Gerald,
                > The 320G is very simple Vandercook. The trip mechanism can be
                > disconnected and disassembled, the shelving box can be removed with
                > a few screws, the feed boards taken off, the cylinder rolled off
                > the end of the bed (mark the teeth first) then you can remove the
                > press bed from the legs which are tied together with threaded rods.
                > I have never taken one of my presses this far, but Arie Koelewyn
                > and Dave Celani did it with a 325G not too long ago. That press is
                > identical to the 320G with the exception of its width.
                > Below I have attached some text from Arie's report that may help
                > you a bit. There is a .pdf of the manual for this press on the
                > Boxcar site (http://www.boxcarpress.com/flywheel/) which might help
                > you to visualise it.
                > By all means grab this press if you can. And when you
                > troubleshooting it let me know.
                >
                > Daniel Morris
                > The Arm Letterpress
                > Brooklyn, NY
                >
                > From Arie:
                > I promised you all a report on the move of the Vandercook 325A (SN:
                > 20307) that Lance Williams found in Frankenmuth, MI and reported on
                > this list a while ago. The press is now safely in my garage and the
                > move went fairly smoothly. It still needs to be reassembled, but that
                > doesn't seem it will be as tricky as removing it from the basement it
                > was found in. You might recall that the press was in the basement of a
                > touristy country gift store. The press had been used to print bumper
                > stickers for sale to the tourists until last December.
                >
                > The press had to be disassembled to get through a 34" choke point
                > on the
                > way to the back stairs. Before the move I had assembled an A-frame
                > cradle for the bed and a shallow cradle that looked like kids sled to
                > hold the cylinder. These went down the stairs the press had to come
                > up,
                > so I was pretty confident that they'd come up again with the press
                > parts
                > on them.
                >
                > I was very lucky to have three good friends to help me with the move.
                > Joe Warren is probably familiar to most on the list. He and I live
                > only
                > a few miles apart and often help each other out. Fred Stahmner is a
                > friend from work who can't quite figure out what all the fuss is about
                > all of this cast iron and lead, but was willing to lend a hand.
                > Finally, but not least, is new friend Dave Celani, also from this
                > list.
                > I'd never met Dave before this move, but he wrote and volunteered to
                > meet us at the press and spent the first day helping us disassemble
                > the
                > Vandercook and getting the parts into their cradles. His toolkit is
                > much better than mine and made the whole process much easier than it
                > might have been. Thanks guys!
                >
                > The first order of the day was to move the press under a massive I-
                > beam
                > near the side of the room. We put two 2x6 skids under it and used
                > three
                > 1" iron pipes to roll it into place. Next was removal of the cylinder
                > carriage. At first we tried to remove it from the back of the press.
                > We removed the stops but it was still binding on something and
                > wouldn't
                > go back further than the gripper trip assembly. We removed a few more
                > small bits, but it was no go. So finally we turned the press around
                > and
                > went off the front. That worked. When the cylinder was at the end of
                > the press we rigged a number of straps around it and suspended it
                > from a
                > come-along . As we were lowering to down to the cradle the come-along
                > slipped about 6 inches and provided the scariest moment of the move.
                > After a couple of deep breaths, the cylinder was slowly lowered to the
                > cradle on the floor. Next the bed was removed from the cabinet in
                > essentially the same manner, but we substituted a substantial chain
                > puller for the come-along . We rigged the cradle on the floor so that
                > the side of the A-frame it would rest upon was flat and lowered the
                > bed
                > onto it after the cabinet had been pulled away by hand. Then the
                > cradle
                > was pulled upright by the chain puller.
                >
                > After the slow disassembly, moving the press through the choke
                > point and
                > staging the pieces at the foot of the stairs went smoothly and
                > quickly.
                > At that point Dave had to leave and the rest of us were hungry. The
                > three of us retreated next door to Zehnder's and had a family style
                > chicken dinner. Expensive but tasty and convenient. Though they did
                > put us scruffy looking types right next to the kitchen so most of the
                > other customers wouldn't have to look at us.
                >
                > When we were fed, rehydrated and rested a bit, we went back to the
                > store. The owner had identified a number of other letterpress items
                > that he did not want any more. I volunteered to take anything he
                > didn't
                > want. In addition to the press, there was a 30" "Perfect Gem" paper
                > cutter, a table saw (brand unknown, but not a Hammond), a Bradley
                > stencil cutting machine, 4 or 5 slug cutter, 3 manual rule miterers
                > and
                > one powered, one combination slug cutter/miterer, a Golding padding
                > press and a few miscellaneous bits. We also found a few Vandercook
                > parts including a chase. These were carried upstairs and taken home at
                > the end of the first day.
                >
                > I had arranged to borrow a Ford F350 pickup from another friend at
                > work
                > and a flatbed trailer from the father of another. The truck owner had
                > picked up the trailer and we were about to trade car keys when that
                > all
                > fell apart. He was summarily fired that afternoon and the truck and
                > trailer both went home. A few quick phone calls and I had arranged
                > with
                > the trailer's owner to also borrow the van he uses to pull the
                > trailer,
                > but only for one day. So the second day of this adventure began with a
                > westward drive to pick up van and trailer and then drive eastward to
                > Frankenmuth. We (Joe, Fred & I) arrived without incident, despite my
                > lack of experience in driving with a trailer. We had arranged to meet
                > at the store with a tow truck operator to help pull the heavy bits up
                > the stairs. They brought along two tow trucks and a flat bed.
                >
                > First the flat bed pulled up to the loading dock and we rolled the
                > paper
                > cutter (which was on ground level) with a pallet jack out the dock
                > door
                > and onto the flat bed. From the flatbed truck onto the trailer was as
                > easy as it gets. We didn't even have to take anything off the cutter.
                > Next was pulling the press bed up the stairs and out through a door in
                > the left side of the stairwell. The tow truck operators (Reinert &
                > Bender) used one truck to pull it up the stairs (by sticking its boom
                > into the doorway) and a second to twist it around and out the door. It
                > was a tight fit but after an hour or so it was sitting on the ground
                > outside. These guys were awesome: careful and methodical. The cabinet
                > went up by hand and the cradle with the cylinder went up with a single
                > truck's winch. We loaded the bed onto the flat bed truck and then onto
                > the trailer. The cylinder and cabinet went into place by hand. By then
                > the tow truck crew (Dennis, Bob and Larry) had been there three hours.
                > Luckily it had been a slow day for them, so that wasn't a problem. I
                > paid them, gave them each a nice tip and felt I got a real good
                > deal for
                > my money.
                >
                > With the trailer all loaded up, all we needed to do was tie things
                > down
                > and drive home. That was when it decided to rain. Buckets of rain.
                > Not really any time to cover things and not much to cover things with
                > anyway. This was my biggest mistake. Rain wasn't in the forecast and I
                > didn't think to bring plastic sheeting to cover the press parts.
                > Everything got soaked. A half hour later the rain let up and we
                > finished tying things down and then drove for home.
                >
                > Unloading and storing everything in my garage was anticlimactic and
                > fairly straightforward. No more room for cars in my garage!
                >
                > With the exception of the rain, everything went pretty much as I
                > planned
                > it. No major disasters and another press that was going to get walled
                > up and forgotten, or scrapped, will have quite a few more years of
                > useful life as a printing press. With luck it will end up at a new
                > Book Arts program here in town.
                >
                > I have ideas for doing this kind of thing better next time, but it may
                > be a while. I'm full up for now.
                >
                > The careful reader will have noticed that we left the saw behind. It's
                > buried in hard to get to corner of the basement under a bunch of junk.
                > By the end of day two we didn't have much oomph left (not to
                > mention tie
                > down straps) and decided to come back for the saw another day. The
                > store owner was very pleased to get rid of all this stuff and get much
                > more room that he could convert into retail space. The saw is out of
                > his way and he was amenable to waiting a couple of months until I can
                > get to it.
                >
                > ---Arie Koelewyn
                > The Paper Airplane Press
                > East Lansing, MI
                > USA
                >
                > ----- Original Message ----
                > From: Gerald Lange <Bieler@...>
                > To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                > Sent: Sunday, February 4, 2007 10:36:16 AM
                > Subject: [PPLetterpress] Re: Plastic Plates Curling...
                >
                > Daniel
                >
                > My best guess would be that it has to do somehow with humidity and
                >
                > temperature?
                >
                > Completely unrelated. But I know you recondition Vandercooks and have
                >
                > a question. Any suggestions on taking a 320G apart to get it out of a
                >
                > room that only has a standard door frame. I assume complete
                >
                > disassembly and turning the frame on its side? This is a press located
                >
                > at a LA educational facility and they just want it out of there. The
                >
                > press got walled in at some point. I've looked at it and it appears to
                >
                > be fully intact, clean except for lack of use, with a lot of the
                >
                > extras they provided for that model.
                >
                > Gerald
                >
                > http://BielerPress. blogspot. com
                >
                > >
                >
                > > Gerald and list,
                >
                > > Thanks for the input and suggestions. I should have mentioned these
                >
                > are brand new plates from Boxcar. These are only the second plates I
                >
                > have ordered and I had the same problem with the last ones, only to a
                >
                > lesser and more manageable degree. This time the curling is causing
                >
                > the plate to pull away from the adhesive backing and lift off the base
                >
                > at the edges to the point where the dead area near the edge is sitting
                >
                > above type high and inking.
                >
                > > This is very frustrating because this is a job for a friend who is
                >
                > very eager to drop his already finished records in these jackets!
                >
                > >
                >
                > > Daniel Morris
                >
                > > The Arm Letterpress
                >
                > > Brooklyn, NY
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > > ----- Original Message ----
                >
                > > From: Gerald Lange <Bieler@...>
                >
                > > To: PPLetterpress@ yahoogroups. com
                >
                > > Sent: Saturday, February 3, 2007 7:27:28 PM
                >
                > > Subject: [PPLetterpress] Re: Plastic Plates Curling...
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > > Daniel
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > > I've not encountered this but in the early years of photopolymer
                >
                > >
                >
                > > (1960s) they used a "carbon dioxide bath" to revitalize the plates.
                >
                > >
                >
                > > Nothing like that is available today but mainly I suspect because
                >
                > >
                >
                > > plates are considered disposable. Basically, save your film negs.
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > > The photopolymerization process never really stops and there are
                >
                > >
                >
                > > environmental issues as well ("ozone attack" is the primary culprit)
                >
                > >
                >
                > > and thus plates lose their resilience and tack fairly quickly. The
                >
                > >
                >
                > > process can be halted somewhat by longer post exposure and
                > delayed by
                >
                > >
                >
                > > the use of antiozonants but I don't know that it makes any real
                > sense
                >
                > >
                >
                > > to store them indefinitely though, since once the tack and
                > resilience
                >
                > >
                >
                > > wanes, they no longer retain their original printing qualities.
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > > I'm assuming you are reusing plates? If not, contact your
                > platemaker.
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > > Gerald
                >
                > >
                >
                > > http://BielerPress. blogspot. com
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > > > I have a job on the press using plastic backed photopolymer plates
                >
                > >
                >
                > > and sheet adhesive
                >
                > >
                >
                > > > backing, but the plates are warping like crazy and peeling off the
                >
                > >
                >
                > > base. What could cause
                >
                > >
                >
                > > > this to happen? Does it have anything to do with the fact that I
                >
                > >
                >
                > > have really heavy areas of
                >
                > >
                >
                > > > solid in the artwork? My studio has been a bit cold, if I heat it
                >
                > >
                >
                > > up a bit will these things sit
                >
                > >
                >
                > > > flat?
                >
                > >
                >
                > > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > > > Daniel Morris
                >
                > >
                >
                > > > The Arm Letterpress
                >
                > >
                >
                > > > Brooklyn, NY
                >
                > >
                >
                > > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
                > >
                >
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                > ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
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                >
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                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              • wa0dfw@copper.net
                This is not a long term solution to your problem, but to get the job done, fasten the plate to a piece of die plywood or similar, then shim from behind to
                Message 7 of 27 , Feb 4, 2007
                  This is not a "long term" solution to your problem, but to get the
                  job done, fasten the plate to a piece of die plywood or similar, then
                  shim from behind to bring it to type high.

                  Another good plywood is something called Baltic Birch, another "apple
                  ply", but maybe you can find an unused cutting die and salvage some
                  plywood from it.

                  You can nail the edges in non-print areas similar to the nailing they
                  do on zinc and mag plates. You might glue it first with some high
                  grade contact cement such as Barge, which is used extensively in the
                  shoe making/repair industry.

                  This might get the job out, your customer happy, and the "heat" off
                  while you figure out what the real problem is.

                  Good luck,

                  Mo

                  >Gerald and list,
                  >Thanks for the input and suggestions. I should have mentioned these
                  >are brand new plates from Boxcar. These are only the second plates I
                  >have ordered and I had the same problem with the last ones, only to a
                  >lesser and more manageable degree. This time the curling is causing
                  >the plate to pull away from the adhesive backing and lift off the
                  >base at the edges to the point where the dead area near the edge is
                  >sitting above type high and inking.
                  >This is very frustrating because this is a job for a friend who is
                  >very eager to drop his already finished records in these jackets!
                  >
                  >Daniel Morris
                  >The Arm Letterpress
                  >Brooklyn, NY
                  >
                  >
                  >----- Original Message ----
                  >From: Gerald Lange <Bieler@...>
                  >To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                  >Sent: Saturday, February 3, 2007 7:27:28 PM
                  >Subject: [PPLetterpress] Re: Plastic Plates Curling...
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > Daniel
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >I've not encountered this but in the early years of photopolymer
                  >
                  >(1960s) they used a "carbon dioxide bath" to revitalize the plates.
                  >
                  >Nothing like that is available today but mainly I suspect because
                  >
                  >plates are considered disposable. Basically, save your film negs.
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >The photopolymerization process never really stops and there are
                  >
                  >environmental issues as well ("ozone attack" is the primary culprit)
                  >
                  >and thus plates lose their resilience and tack fairly quickly. The
                  >
                  >process can be halted somewhat by longer post exposure and delayed by
                  >
                  >the use of antiozonants but I don't know that it makes any real sense
                  >
                  >to store them indefinitely though, since once the tack and resilience
                  >
                  >wanes, they no longer retain their original printing qualities.
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >I'm assuming you are reusing plates? If not, contact your platemaker.
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >Gerald
                  >
                  >http://BielerPress. blogspot. com
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >>
                  >
                  >> I have a job on the press using plastic backed photopolymer plates
                  >
                  >and sheet adhesive
                  >
                  >> backing, but the plates are warping like crazy and peeling off the
                  >
                  >base. What could cause
                  >
                  >> this to happen? Does it have anything to do with the fact that I
                  >
                  >have really heavy areas of
                  >
                  >> solid in the artwork? My studio has been a bit cold, if I heat it
                  >
                  >up a bit will these things sit
                  >
                  >> flat?
                  >
                  >>
                  >
                  >> Daniel Morris
                  >
                  >> The Arm Letterpress
                  >
                  >> Brooklyn, NY
                  >
                  >>
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
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                • Bethany Carter
                  Hi Daniel, You mentioned in an earlier post that your plates have heavy solid areas in them. Are these solid areas close to the edge of the plate? I have a few
                  Message 8 of 27 , Feb 4, 2007
                    Hi Daniel,

                    You mentioned in an earlier post that your plates have heavy solid areas
                    in them. Are these solid areas close to the edge of the plate? I have a few
                    plates (adhesive, from Boxcar) that have solid areas that are close to the
                    edge and I sometimes have problems getting them to stick all the way down on
                    the base while printing. My advice is certainly not as sophisticated as the
                    others that have responded, but I have had better luck with this issue by
                    making sure there is a wide area of dead space around these solid areas and
                    that seems to help anchor the plate to the base to make the solid areas
                    stick all the way down and not curl up. Just something to try if nothing
                    else works.

                    Good luck,

                    Bethany
                    Proprietor, ThistleBerry Press


                    >From: Daniel Morris <featherweightpress@...>
                    >Reply-To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                    >To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                    >Subject: Re: [PPLetterpress] Re: Plastic Plates Curling...
                    >Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2007 10:17:59 -0800 (PST)
                    >
                    >Gerald and list,
                    >Thanks for the input and suggestions. I should have mentioned these are
                    >brand new plates from Boxcar. These are only the second plates I have
                    >ordered and I had the same problem with the last ones, only to a lesser and
                    >more manageable degree. This time the curling is causing the plate to pull
                    >away from the adhesive backing and lift off the base at the edges to the
                    >point where the dead area near the edge is sitting above type high and
                    >inking.
                    >This is very frustrating because this is a job for a friend who is very
                    >eager to drop his already finished records in these jackets!
                    >
                    >Daniel Morris
                    >The Arm Letterpress
                    >Brooklyn, NY
                    >
                    >
                    >----- Original Message ----
                    >From: Gerald Lange <Bieler@...>
                    >To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                    >Sent: Saturday, February 3, 2007 7:27:28 PM
                    >Subject: [PPLetterpress] Re: Plastic Plates Curling...
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    > Daniel
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >I've not encountered this but in the early years of photopolymer
                    >
                    >(1960s) they used a "carbon dioxide bath" to revitalize the plates.
                    >
                    >Nothing like that is available today but mainly I suspect because
                    >
                    >plates are considered disposable. Basically, save your film negs.
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >The photopolymerization process never really stops and there are
                    >
                    >environmental issues as well ("ozone attack" is the primary culprit)
                    >
                    >and thus plates lose their resilience and tack fairly quickly. The
                    >
                    >process can be halted somewhat by longer post exposure and delayed by
                    >
                    >the use of antiozonants but I don't know that it makes any real sense
                    >
                    >to store them indefinitely though, since once the tack and resilience
                    >
                    >wanes, they no longer retain their original printing qualities.
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >I'm assuming you are reusing plates? If not, contact your platemaker.
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >Gerald
                    >
                    >http://BielerPress. blogspot. com
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    > >
                    >
                    > > I have a job on the press using plastic backed photopolymer plates
                    >
                    >and sheet adhesive
                    >
                    > > backing, but the plates are warping like crazy and peeling off the
                    >
                    >base. What could cause
                    >
                    > > this to happen? Does it have anything to do with the fact that I
                    >
                    >have really heavy areas of
                    >
                    > > solid in the artwork? My studio has been a bit cold, if I heat it
                    >
                    >up a bit will these things sit
                    >
                    > > flat?
                    >
                    > >
                    >
                    > > Daniel Morris
                    >
                    > > The Arm Letterpress
                    >
                    > > Brooklyn, NY
                    >
                    > >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
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                  • John G. Henry
                    Daniel: I also have experienced this curling in my plates at times. I resolved the problem by doubling up on both my drying time after washout, and the post
                    Message 9 of 27 , Feb 5, 2007
                      Daniel:

                      I also have experienced this curling in my plates at times. I
                      resolved the problem by doubling up on both my drying time after
                      washout, and the post exposure time. I think they were re-absorbing
                      moisture (or drying out), changing the dimensions of the
                      image areas, causing heavy solid areas to cup up and leaving the
                      plate material curly as you describe.

                      Try a longer dry, but not too high a temperature, and give them a
                      long post exposure and see if that resolves your issues.

                      John G. Henry
                      Cedar Creek Press

                      --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "featherweightpress"
                      <featherweightpress@...> wrote:
                      >
                      > I have a job on the press using plastic backed photopolymer plates
                      and sheet adhesive
                      > backing, but the plates are warping like crazy and peeling off the
                      base. What could cause
                      > this to happen? Does it have anything to do with the fact that I
                      have really heavy areas of
                      > solid in the artwork? My studio has been a bit cold, if I heat it
                      up a bit will these things sit
                      > flat?
                      >
                      > Daniel Morris
                      > The Arm Letterpress
                      > Brooklyn, NY
                      >
                    • Daniel Morris
                      John, That sounds exactly like what I am experiencing. I don t yet have facilities to process plates in house so I will have to speak to my platemaker about
                      Message 10 of 27 , Feb 5, 2007
                        John,
                        That sounds exactly like what I am experiencing. I don't yet have facilities to process plates in house so I will have to speak to my platemaker about your recommendations. I suspect they are not accustomed to setting their machines to deal with such large areas of solid.

                        Daniel Morris
                        The Arm Letterpress
                        Brooklyn, NY



                        ----- Original Message ----
                        From: John G. Henry <JohnH@...>
                        To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                        Sent: Monday, February 5, 2007 9:02:58 AM
                        Subject: [PPLetterpress] Re: Plastic Plates Curling...













                        Daniel:



                        I also have experienced this curling in my plates at times. I

                        resolved the problem by doubling up on both my drying time after

                        washout, and the post exposure time. I think they were re-absorbing

                        moisture (or drying out), changing the dimensions of the

                        image areas, causing heavy solid areas to cup up and leaving the

                        plate material curly as you describe.



                        Try a longer dry, but not too high a temperature, and give them a

                        long post exposure and see if that resolves your issues.



                        John G. Henry

                        Cedar Creek Press



                        --- In PPLetterpress@ yahoogroups. com, "featherweightpress "

                        <featherweightpress @...> wrote:

                        >

                        > I have a job on the press using plastic backed photopolymer plates

                        and sheet adhesive

                        > backing, but the plates are warping like crazy and peeling off the

                        base. What could cause

                        > this to happen? Does it have anything to do with the fact that I

                        have really heavy areas of

                        > solid in the artwork? My studio has been a bit cold, if I heat it

                        up a bit will these things sit

                        > flat?

                        >

                        > Daniel Morris

                        > The Arm Letterpress

                        > Brooklyn, NY

                        >














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                      • Harold Kyle
                        Dan: I m sorry to hear the problems you re having with the plates. I wish I could have responded earlier, but the heavy snow here left us short- staffed and I
                        Message 11 of 27 , Feb 5, 2007
                          Dan:

                          I'm sorry to hear the problems you're having with the plates. I wish
                          I could have responded earlier, but the heavy snow here left us short-
                          staffed and I didn't get a chance to write earlier. Feel free to call
                          us directly with any concerns about our plates when they happen!

                          The cold shouldn't affect the plates, but the dryness of the winter
                          weather will cause the plates to curl. When the plates dry out, their
                          surface hardens and tends to curl inward, especially on large solids
                          on the KF152 plates. Thinner plastic-backed plates (like our 94FL)
                          don't tend to have this problem, nor will plates with ligher
                          coverage. This problem tends to flare up in the winter when the air
                          is dry for many of our customers. Usually the impression of the press
                          flattens the plate, but in your case it sounds like the plate isn't
                          sticking at all.

                          There are two steps to prevent this problem:
                          * Humidity helps. Run a humidifier in your shop in winter to make
                          sure the plates aren't losing moisture.
                          * Keep your plates bagged (to keep the plates in constant humidity)
                          and out out light (to keep them from hardening).

                          I have one solution that might get you through this run:
                          * If your plates have hardened and curled, you can re-moisten them to
                          make them more flexible. Since water will damage the adhesive, I
                          recommend you place the plate polymer-side up on a flat surface and
                          lay a wet towel on top. Let the plate sit, moistening, for five to
                          ten minutes. You can then dry the plate by blotting it dry with a
                          lint-free rag and following up with a hair drier. The plate should be
                          more supple and flatten out when the press goes to impression.

                          If you continue to have problems with your plate, give me a call. We
                          guarantee the plates for six months after processing, so we can offer
                          a replacement if you've stored your plates properly and still have
                          this problem. This must be the order we shipped right before Christmas?

                          Good luck, and let me know how you fare.

                          Harold

                          PS. I just talked with a customer whose base was so cold, she
                          suspects the adhesive wasn't sticking well. The information on our
                          adhesive doesn't have a temperature range, but it could be that the
                          base is so cold that the rubber-based adhesive can't stick. This is
                          conjecture, but maybe if you heated the base, it would be more
                          receptive to the adhesive?
                          I will try to follow up with the manufacturer about this question
                          tomorrow.

                          On Feb 3, 2007, at 8:22 PM, featherweightpress wrote:
                          > have a job on the press using plastic backed photopolymer plates
                          > and sheet adhesive
                          > backing, but the plates are warping like crazy and peeling off the
                          > base. What could cause
                          > this to happen? Does it have anything to do with the fact that I
                          > have really heavy areas of
                          > solid in the artwork? My studio has been a bit cold, if I heat it
                          > up a bit will these things sit
                          > flat?
                          >
                          > Daniel Morris
                          > The Arm Letterpress
                          > Brooklyn, NY
                          >

                          Harold Kyle
                          Boxcar Press
                          501 W. Fayette St. #222 ~ Syracuse, NY 13204
                          315-473-0930 phone ~ 315-473-0967 fax
                          http://www.boxcarpress.com
                        • Harold Kyle
                          John: With relative humidity hovering between 15% and 20% in the northeast, I don t think that reabsorption of moisture is possible! There just is none in the
                          Message 12 of 27 , Feb 5, 2007
                            John:

                            With relative humidity hovering between 15% and 20% in the northeast,
                            I don't think that reabsorption of moisture is possible! There just
                            is none in the air. In my experience, it's actually low humidity that
                            exacerbates curling. I've confirmed this phenomenon with two of the
                            plate manufacturers that we represent, and it bears out in the
                            seasonal changes of our customers' print shops. Conversely, in the
                            humid summer months, plates tend to be too moist. The best solution
                            is to maintain (somewhat) constant humidity in your shop year round.

                            Dan suggested our platemaker might not have been set up right for
                            solids in his response to your message. I think I'll address that
                            here. One thing we can to minimize curl is cut back on the exposures.
                            This wasn't possible in this case because the artwork contained the
                            equivalent of 4 point type in close proximity to the solid (this is
                            the "healthy hot dog" text, Dan). Small point sizes need longer
                            exposure to hold on the plate and to become hard enough to withstand
                            printing. 4 point type is miniscule and approaches the minimum we can
                            hold. It's a delicate balance between obtaining the detail/hardness
                            required in the small lines without burning the plate to the point of
                            curling. We always err on the side of detail, because curled plates
                            usually flatten during printing. If the detail isn't there, though,
                            it doesn't come back during printing!

                            Bethany's tip of allowing a large border around the plate is a good
                            one. Since I noticed that the solid area is at the plate edge, it may
                            be that we trimmed the plate too close to the solid. I'm beginning to
                            suspect this may be to blame. As I mentioned in my previous message,
                            we're happy to remake any plates you feel weren't made right. Let me
                            know if I can send a replacement for you to receive Wednesday.

                            Harold


                            On Feb 5, 2007, at 12:02 PM, John G. Henry wrote:

                            > Daniel:
                            >
                            > I also have experienced this curling in my plates at times. I
                            > resolved the problem by doubling up on both my drying time after
                            > washout, and the post exposure time. I think they were re-absorbing
                            > moisture (or drying out), changing the dimensions of the
                            > image areas, causing heavy solid areas to cup up and leaving the
                            > plate material curly as you describe.
                            >
                            > Try a longer dry, but not too high a temperature, and give them a
                            > long post exposure and see if that resolves your issues.
                            >
                            > John G. Henry
                            > Cedar Creek Press
                            >
                            > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "featherweightpress"
                            > <featherweightpress@...> wrote:
                            > >
                            > > I have a job on the press using plastic backed photopolymer plates
                            > and sheet adhesive
                            > > backing, but the plates are warping like crazy and peeling off the
                            > base. What could cause
                            > > this to happen? Does it have anything to do with the fact that I
                            > have really heavy areas of
                            > > solid in the artwork? My studio has been a bit cold, if I heat it
                            > up a bit will these things sit
                            > > flat?
                            > >
                            > > Daniel Morris
                            > > The Arm Letterpress
                            > > Brooklyn, NY
                            > >
                            >
                            >
                            >

                            Harold Kyle
                            Boxcar Press
                            501 W. Fayette St. #222 ~ Syracuse, NY 13204
                            315-473-0930 phone ~ 315-473-0967 fax
                            http://www.boxcarpress.com
                          • Gerald Lange
                            Harold As far as I know plates have a stated hardness rating; once cured, that is their hardness. One isn t hardening a plate through curing, that is to say,
                            Message 13 of 27 , Feb 5, 2007
                              Harold

                              As far as I know plates have a stated hardness rating; once cured, that
                              is their hardness. One isn't hardening a plate through curing, that is
                              to say, one cannot increase or decrease the hardness through the
                              process. It is simply being brought to state. It would be disastrous if
                              this were not the case.

                              I have no idea why plates would curl and rip away from the adhesive but
                              I suspect that temperature as well as humidity could come into play. I
                              do know that non-room temperature variance has an effect on exposure
                              times. I haven't experienced this on press though.

                              But I agree that putting a 4-pt text reverse on a solid is asking for a
                              difficult time on press. It can be done but I'd warn here against using
                              a delicately light serif face and/or composition that hasn't been
                              significantly tracked out at that size. Plus there simply isn't enough
                              relief (if exposed correctly, as you point out) and constant cleaning is
                              required.

                              Gerald
                              http://BielerPress.blogspot.com

                              Harold Kyle wrote:
                              > John:
                              >
                              > With relative humidity hovering between 15% and 20% in the northeast,
                              > I don't think that reabsorption of moisture is possible! There just
                              > is none in the air. In my experience, it's actually low humidity that
                              > exacerbates curling. I've confirmed this phenomenon with two of the
                              > plate manufacturers that we represent, and it bears out in the
                              > seasonal changes of our customers' print shops. Conversely, in the
                              > humid summer months, plates tend to be too moist. The best solution
                              > is to maintain (somewhat) constant humidity in your shop year round.
                              >
                              > Dan suggested our platemaker might not have been set up right for
                              > solids in his response to your message. I think I'll address that
                              > here. One thing we can to minimize curl is cut back on the exposures.
                              > This wasn't possible in this case because the artwork contained the
                              > equivalent of 4 point type in close proximity to the solid (this is
                              > the "healthy hot dog" text, Dan). Small point sizes need longer
                              > exposure to hold on the plate and to become hard enough to withstand
                              > printing. 4 point type is miniscule and approaches the minimum we can
                              > hold. It's a delicate balance between obtaining the detail/hardness
                              > required in the small lines without burning the plate to the point of
                              > curling. We always err on the side of detail, because curled plates
                              > usually flatten during printing. If the detail isn't there, though,
                              > it doesn't come back during printing!
                              >
                              > Bethany's tip of allowing a large border around the plate is a good
                              > one. Since I noticed that the solid area is at the plate edge, it may
                              > be that we trimmed the plate too close to the solid. I'm beginning to
                              > suspect this may be to blame. As I mentioned in my previous message,
                              > we're happy to remake any plates you feel weren't made right. Let me
                              > know if I can send a replacement for you to receive Wednesday.
                              >
                              > Harold
                              >
                              >
                              > On Feb 5, 2007, at 12:02 PM, John G. Henry wrote:
                              >
                              >
                              >> Daniel:
                              >>
                              >> I also have experienced this curling in my plates at times. I
                              >> resolved the problem by doubling up on both my drying time after
                              >> washout, and the post exposure time. I think they were re-absorbing
                              >> moisture (or drying out), changing the dimensions of the
                              >> image areas, causing heavy solid areas to cup up and leaving the
                              >> plate material curly as you describe.
                              >>
                              >> Try a longer dry, but not too high a temperature, and give them a
                              >> long post exposure and see if that resolves your issues.
                              >>
                              >> John G. Henry
                              >> Cedar Creek Press
                              >>
                              >> --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "featherweightpress"
                              >> <featherweightpress@...> wrote:
                              >>
                              >>> I have a job on the press using plastic backed photopolymer plates
                              >>>
                              >> and sheet adhesive
                              >>
                              >>> backing, but the plates are warping like crazy and peeling off the
                              >>>
                              >> base. What could cause
                              >>
                              >>> this to happen? Does it have anything to do with the fact that I
                              >>>
                              >> have really heavy areas of
                              >>
                              >>> solid in the artwork? My studio has been a bit cold, if I heat it
                              >>>
                              >> up a bit will these things sit
                              >>
                              >>> flat?
                              >>>
                              >>> Daniel Morris
                              >>> The Arm Letterpress
                              >>> Brooklyn, NY
                              >>>
                              >>>
                              >>
                              >>
                              >
                              > Harold Kyle
                              > Boxcar Press
                              > 501 W. Fayette St. #222 ~ Syracuse, NY 13204
                              > 315-473-0930 phone ~ 315-473-0967 fax
                              > http://www.boxcarpress.com
                              >
                              >
                            • wa0dfw@copper.net
                              Kinda normal out here!
                              Message 14 of 27 , Feb 5, 2007
                                Kinda normal out here!

                                >With relative humidity hovering between 15% and 20% in the northeast,
                              • Harold Kyle
                                Gerald, As I understand it, you re right in theory. When processed correctly and stored at 50% relative humidity (and kept out of excessive ultraviolet light)
                                Message 15 of 27 , Feb 6, 2007
                                  Gerald,

                                  As I understand it, you're right in theory. When processed correctly
                                  and stored at 50% relative humidity (and kept out of excessive
                                  ultraviolet light) afterwards, the plate will have its stated
                                  hardness. Once the environmental variables change (when the plate is
                                  sent out into the world), though, the plate can continue to harden.
                                  Leave a 152SB plate in an LA window sill and next week it will be so
                                  brittle that a slight flex in the plate can cause it to crack . This
                                  plate has gone beyond the hardness intended for it because of excess
                                  UV. The same can happen with plates that become excessively dry.

                                  The simple solution to this issue is to bag the plates and make sure
                                  they're out of light. Don't leave them out longer than necessary and
                                  remoisten them if they curl.

                                  In thinking this morning about John's suggestion of drying the plate
                                  longer, I realized this is a good suggestion during the Iowa summer.
                                  The humid weather then requires a longer (or hotter) drying to expel
                                  the right amount of moisture. I wonder, John, if you find yourself
                                  using a longer dry time more frequently in winter or in summer?

                                  Thanks,
                                  Harold


                                  On Feb 5, 2007, at 9:18 PM, Gerald Lange wrote:

                                  > One isn't hardening a plate through curing, that is
                                  > to say, one cannot increase or decrease the hardness through the
                                  > process. It is simply being brought to state.

                                  Harold Kyle
                                  Boxcar Press
                                  501 W. Fayette St. #222 ~ Syracuse, NY 13204
                                  315-473-0930 phone ~ 315-473-0967 fax
                                  http://www.boxcarpress.com
                                • Daniel Morris
                                  Harold and list, Thanks for all the time you have taken to consider what my problems here might be. Having all this information I now feel my problems are due
                                  Message 16 of 27 , Feb 6, 2007
                                    Harold and list,
                                    Thanks for all the time you have taken to consider what my problems here might be. Having all this information I now feel my problems are due to a combination of things. I am using a thick plate (KF152) which Harold tells me has a higher tendancy to curl than their standard plate material and, being unaware of this tendancy, I have ganged together multiple pieces of artwork without allowing an expansive/expensive border in negative space to fight against the curling tendancy of this plate material in type high areas.
                                    When I mounted my plates and left them on the base overnight they were curling away from the adhesive by the next morning.
                                    When I went to print, the edges of the dead areas were raised enough to come into contact with the rollers and were therefore being inked and ghosting on the sheet on the print stroke. My quick and dirty solution was to trim even more of these
                                    dead areas away in order to prevent them from printing. This seems to
                                    be working okay, but I have noticed just a tiny bit of plate creep because so much of the plate isn't properly adhered to the base until the moment it is impressed.
                                    Because my studio is too large to keep it climate controlled overnight, I will try Harold's suggestion of placing a moist towel over the plate on the base and I will put weight on top of it until I arrive the next day to print again.
                                    Thanks again for all the suggestions. I still have 600 more impressions to do with these plates so I'll get back to cranking.

                                    Daniel Morris
                                    The Arm Letterpress
                                    Brooklyn, NY


                                    ----- Original Message ----
                                    From: Harold Kyle <harold@...>
                                    To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                                    Sent: Monday, February 5, 2007 2:30:18 PM
                                    Subject: Re: [PPLetterpress] Plastic Plates Curling...













                                    Dan:



                                    I'm sorry to hear the problems you're having with the plates. I wish

                                    I could have responded earlier, but the heavy snow here left us short-

                                    staffed and I didn't get a chance to write earlier. Feel free to call

                                    us directly with any concerns about our plates when they happen!



                                    The cold shouldn't affect the plates, but the dryness of the winter

                                    weather will cause the plates to curl. When the plates dry out, their

                                    surface hardens and tends to curl inward, especially on large solids

                                    on the KF152 plates. Thinner plastic-backed plates (like our 94FL)

                                    don't tend to have this problem, nor will plates with ligher

                                    coverage. This problem tends to flare up in the winter when the air

                                    is dry for many of our customers. Usually the impression of the press

                                    flattens the plate, but in your case it sounds like the plate isn't

                                    sticking at all.



                                    There are two steps to prevent this problem:

                                    * Humidity helps. Run a humidifier in your shop in winter to make

                                    sure the plates aren't losing moisture.

                                    * Keep your plates bagged (to keep the plates in constant humidity)

                                    and out out light (to keep them from hardening).



                                    I have one solution that might get you through this run:

                                    * If your plates have hardened and curled, you can re-moisten them to

                                    make them more flexible. Since water will damage the adhesive, I

                                    recommend you place the plate polymer-side up on a flat surface and

                                    lay a wet towel on top. Let the plate sit, moistening, for five to

                                    ten minutes. You can then dry the plate by blotting it dry with a

                                    lint-free rag and following up with a hair drier. The plate should be

                                    more supple and flatten out when the press goes to impression.



                                    If you continue to have problems with your plate, give me a call. We

                                    guarantee the plates for six months after processing, so we can offer

                                    a replacement if you've stored your plates properly and still have

                                    this problem. This must be the order we shipped right before Christmas?



                                    Good luck, and let me know how you fare.



                                    Harold



                                    PS. I just talked with a customer whose base was so cold, she

                                    suspects the adhesive wasn't sticking well. The information on our

                                    adhesive doesn't have a temperature range, but it could be that the

                                    base is so cold that the rubber-based adhesive can't stick. This is

                                    conjecture, but maybe if you heated the base, it would be more

                                    receptive to the adhesive?

                                    I will try to follow up with the manufacturer about this question

                                    tomorrow.



                                    On Feb 3, 2007, at 8:22 PM, featherweightpress wrote:

                                    > have a job on the press using plastic backed photopolymer plates

                                    > and sheet adhesive

                                    > backing, but the plates are warping like crazy and peeling off the

                                    > base. What could cause

                                    > this to happen? Does it have anything to do with the fact that I

                                    > have really heavy areas of

                                    > solid in the artwork? My studio has been a bit cold, if I heat it

                                    > up a bit will these things sit

                                    > flat?

                                    >

                                    > Daniel Morris

                                    > The Arm Letterpress

                                    > Brooklyn, NY

                                    >



                                    Harold Kyle

                                    Boxcar Press

                                    501 W. Fayette St. #222 ~ Syracuse, NY 13204

                                    315-473-0930 phone ~ 315-473-0967 fax

                                    http://www.boxcarpr ess.com














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                                    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                  • typetom@aol.com
                                    In a message dated 2/6/2007, harold@boxcarpress.com writes: In thinking this morning about John s suggestion of drying the plate longer, I realized this is a
                                    Message 17 of 27 , Feb 6, 2007
                                      In a message dated 2/6/2007, harold@... writes:

                                      In thinking this morning about John's suggestion of drying the plate
                                      longer, I realized this is a good suggestion during the Iowa summer.
                                      The humid weather then requires a longer (or hotter) drying to expel
                                      the right amount of moisture. I wonder, John, if you find yourself
                                      using a longer dry time more frequently in winter or in summer?



                                      I agree with John about drying time affecting curl. Here in Denver the air
                                      is normally so dry a plate seems to need almost no drying time. I discovered
                                      this is deceptive -- if I don't dry long enough, there is still moisture in
                                      the plate which eventually dries, which seems to cause the plate to curl since
                                      the surface shrinks more (or faster) than the sub-surface of the polymer.
                                      Additional drying time (which I do with a hand-held hair drier) seems to solve
                                      most of my curling problems.

                                      The exact timing needed will vary according to humidity -- my methods are
                                      somewhat impressionistic (or should I say learned by craft and experience),
                                      usually blow-drying the plate until it is almost too hot to hold, and then a
                                      little longer.... I also added a little additional post-exposure time, for what
                                      it's worth, which seems to me to dry the plate further and maybe fix it
                                      better in its original flat condition throughout the full depth of the polymer.

                                      Larger surfaces still seem more prone to curl, and long storage still
                                      results in a more brittle and often more curled plate. (I don't know if the brittle
                                      quality is a result of an increased "hardness" of the polymer as it is
                                      exposed to further UV, or dry air, or some other kind of deterioration in the
                                      polymer such as Gerald suggests happens because of Ozone). But the result is that
                                      I don't often reuse old plates, but save the negative and remake the plate.

                                      Seems to me these variations may be better recognized when making plates by
                                      hand, rather than by setting timers on a machine, but maybe that's my own
                                      preference for hand-work showing. I did have to learn that some of the timing
                                      measurements have to be mechanically and very precisely followed, especially
                                      exposure times for differing kinds of images, and washout time limits.

                                      (Regarding the extra exposure needed to preserve very fine lines and dots, I
                                      would say that the polymer is not getting "harder" but may be hardening
                                      further all the way to the base, which also allows sub-surface material to harden
                                      more widely than the surface image -- which will provide additional support
                                      and protection for the fine surface lines or dots. An opposite process is
                                      involved in determining exposure time needed for printing a reverse line in a
                                      solid surface -- too much exposure time will allow the sub-surface to harden
                                      and widen to over-fill the detail of the reverse, thus leaving it without
                                      enough relief for printing -- so this kind of image needs to be under-exposed to
                                      protect the fine details. These processes are a result of the fact that the UV
                                      light does not just enter the negative/plate in a directly vertical
                                      direction, but angles through the image in the negative and thus exposes a wider area
                                      below the surface, and thus can harden an expanding sub-surface area of
                                      polymer the longer it has the chance.)

                                      Best wishes, Tom

                                      Tom Parson
                                      Now It's Up To You Publications
                                      157 S. Logan, Denver CO 80209
                                      (303) 777-8951 home
                                      (720) 480-5358 cell phone
                                      http://members.aol.com/typetom


                                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                    • Gerald Lange
                                      Tom I think this is fairly accurate. Don t know about exactly about the drying time thing or the humidity factor, nor have ever experienced the curling factor.
                                      Message 18 of 27 , Feb 7, 2007
                                        Tom

                                        I think this is fairly accurate. Don't know about exactly about the
                                        drying time thing or the humidity factor, nor have ever experienced the
                                        curling factor. But I love the word "impressionistic" in this regard
                                        (applies to machine processing as well as hand processing, by the way).

                                        PP isn't voodoo, it's just a technical process. Thus, I'm confused about
                                        the thinking on drying in the thread. Drying just removes the moisture
                                        left over from washout and has nothing to do with the innards of the
                                        matrix. Water doesn't actually get into the polymer. And while moisture
                                        must be maintained at a certain rate to prolong the longevity of plates
                                        I suspect far too much is being made of this.

                                        Your description of the photopolymerization process is as on the mark as
                                        it gets except that during extended exposure the relief grows upward
                                        (shallower) as the molecular structure continues to grow and interlock
                                        (because of the extended UV exposure).

                                        I'm also thinking there is confusion (in the thread) over the term
                                        hardness as opposed to eventual loss of tack and resilience, resulting
                                        in brittleness. Post-exposure simply ensures complete
                                        photopolymerization of the subsurface relief (the surface is already
                                        stabilized); it is suggested that it can prolong deterioration but
                                        common practice would indicate not to reuse plates (as per your
                                        practice)—it has not seemed a beneficial practice to me as well. I
                                        suspect if one waits a month or so to print from plates, well, one has
                                        missed the window of optimum opportunity.

                                        Fresh, seems to be a fairly politically correct term these days. "Fresh
                                        plates are good for your printing"?

                                        Gerald
                                        http://BielerPress.blogspot.com



                                        typetom@... wrote:
                                        >
                                        > In a message dated 2/6/2007, harold@... writes:
                                        >
                                        > In thinking this morning about John's suggestion of drying the plate
                                        > longer, I realized this is a good suggestion during the Iowa summer.
                                        > The humid weather then requires a longer (or hotter) drying to expel
                                        > the right amount of moisture. I wonder, John, if you find yourself
                                        > using a longer dry time more frequently in winter or in summer?
                                        >
                                        >
                                        >
                                        > I agree with John about drying time affecting curl. Here in Denver the air
                                        > is normally so dry a plate seems to need almost no drying time. I discovered
                                        > this is deceptive -- if I don't dry long enough, there is still moisture in
                                        > the plate which eventually dries, which seems to cause the plate to curl since
                                        > the surface shrinks more (or faster) than the sub-surface of the polymer.
                                        > Additional drying time (which I do with a hand-held hair drier) seems to solve
                                        > most of my curling problems.
                                        >
                                        > The exact timing needed will vary according to humidity -- my methods are
                                        > somewhat impressionistic (or should I say learned by craft and experience),
                                        > usually blow-drying the plate until it is almost too hot to hold, and then a
                                        > little longer.... I also added a little additional post-exposure time, for what
                                        > it's worth, which seems to me to dry the plate further and maybe fix it
                                        > better in its original flat condition throughout the full depth of the polymer.
                                        >
                                        > Larger surfaces still seem more prone to curl, and long storage still
                                        > results in a more brittle and often more curled plate. (I don't know if the brittle
                                        > quality is a result of an increased "hardness" of the polymer as it is
                                        > exposed to further UV, or dry air, or some other kind of deterioration in the
                                        > polymer such as Gerald suggests happens because of Ozone). But the result is that
                                        > I don't often reuse old plates, but save the negative and remake the plate.
                                        >
                                        > Seems to me these variations may be better recognized when making plates by
                                        > hand, rather than by setting timers on a machine, but maybe that's my own
                                        > preference for hand-work showing. I did have to learn that some of the timing
                                        > measurements have to be mechanically and very precisely followed, especially
                                        > exposure times for differing kinds of images, and washout time limits.
                                        >
                                        > (Regarding the extra exposure needed to preserve very fine lines and dots, I
                                        > would say that the polymer is not getting "harder" but may be hardening
                                        > further all the way to the base, which also allows sub-surface material to harden
                                        > more widely than the surface image -- which will provide additional support
                                        > and protection for the fine surface lines or dots. An opposite process is
                                        > involved in determining exposure time needed for printing a reverse line in a
                                        > solid surface -- too much exposure time will allow the sub-surface to harden
                                        > and widen to over-fill the detail of the reverse, thus leaving it without
                                        > enough relief for printing -- so this kind of image needs to be under-exposed to
                                        > protect the fine details. These processes are a result of the fact that the UV
                                        > light does not just enter the negative/plate in a directly vertical
                                        > direction, but angles through the image in the negative and thus exposes a wider area
                                        > below the surface, and thus can harden an expanding sub-surface area of
                                        > polymer the longer it has the chance.)
                                        >
                                        > Best wishes, Tom
                                        >
                                        > Tom Parson
                                        > Now It's Up To You Publications
                                        > 157 S. Logan, Denver CO 80209
                                        > (303) 777-8951 home
                                        > (720) 480-5358 cell phone
                                        > http://members.aol.com/typetom
                                        >
                                        >
                                        >
                                      • John G. Henry
                                        I find the most curling in heavy solids and halftone images. I do think the humidity is my greatest difficulty. My shop is not air- conditioned, so I do have
                                        Message 19 of 27 , Feb 7, 2007
                                          I find the most curling in heavy solids and halftone images. I do
                                          think the humidity is my greatest difficulty. My shop is not air-
                                          conditioned, so I do have some variations from winter to summer.

                                          Perhaps our California group members have a more stable environment
                                          so they do not notice the vargaries of moisture as it relates to
                                          photopolymer plate materials. It does seem that the plates are
                                          capable of some retention or loss of moisture after polymerization.

                                          John Henry

                                          --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, typetom@... wrote:
                                          >
                                          >
                                          > In a message dated 2/6/2007, harold@... writes:
                                          >
                                          > In thinking this morning about John's suggestion of drying the
                                          plate
                                          > longer, I realized this is a good suggestion during the Iowa
                                          summer.
                                          > The humid weather then requires a longer (or hotter) drying to
                                          expel
                                          > the right amount of moisture. I wonder, John, if you find
                                          yourself
                                          > using a longer dry time more frequently in winter or in summer?
                                          >
                                          >
                                          >
                                          > I agree with John about drying time affecting curl. Here in
                                          Denver the air
                                          > is normally so dry a plate seems to need almost no drying time. I
                                          discovered
                                          > this is deceptive -- if I don't dry long enough, there is still
                                          moisture in
                                          > the plate which eventually dries, which seems to cause the plate
                                          to curl since
                                          > the surface shrinks more (or faster) than the sub-surface of the
                                          polymer.
                                          > Additional drying time (which I do with a hand-held hair drier)
                                          seems to solve
                                          > most of my curling problems.
                                          >
                                          > The exact timing needed will vary according to humidity -- my
                                          methods are
                                          > somewhat impressionistic (or should I say learned by craft and
                                          experience),
                                          > usually blow-drying the plate until it is almost too hot to hold,
                                          and then a
                                          > little longer.... I also added a little additional post-exposure
                                          time, for what
                                          > it's worth, which seems to me to dry the plate further and maybe
                                          fix it
                                          > better in its original flat condition throughout the full depth
                                          of the polymer.
                                          >
                                          > Larger surfaces still seem more prone to curl, and long storage
                                          still
                                          > results in a more brittle and often more curled plate. (I don't
                                          know if the brittle
                                          > quality is a result of an increased "hardness" of the polymer as
                                          it is
                                          > exposed to further UV, or dry air, or some other kind of
                                          deterioration in the
                                          > polymer such as Gerald suggests happens because of Ozone). But
                                          the result is that
                                          > I don't often reuse old plates, but save the negative and remake
                                          the plate.
                                          >
                                          > Seems to me these variations may be better recognized when making
                                          plates by
                                          > hand, rather than by setting timers on a machine, but maybe
                                          that's my own
                                          > preference for hand-work showing. I did have to learn that some
                                          of the timing
                                          > measurements have to be mechanically and very precisely followed,
                                          especially
                                          > exposure times for differing kinds of images, and washout time
                                          limits.
                                          >
                                          > (Regarding the extra exposure needed to preserve very fine lines
                                          and dots, I
                                          > would say that the polymer is not getting "harder" but may be
                                          hardening
                                          > further all the way to the base, which also allows sub-surface
                                          material to harden
                                          > more widely than the surface image -- which will provide
                                          additional support
                                          > and protection for the fine surface lines or dots. An opposite
                                          process is
                                          > involved in determining exposure time needed for printing a
                                          reverse line in a
                                          > solid surface -- too much exposure time will allow the sub-
                                          surface to harden
                                          > and widen to over-fill the detail of the reverse, thus leaving it
                                          without
                                          > enough relief for printing -- so this kind of image needs to be
                                          under-exposed to
                                          > protect the fine details. These processes are a result of the
                                          fact that the UV
                                          > light does not just enter the negative/plate in a directly
                                          vertical
                                          > direction, but angles through the image in the negative and thus
                                          exposes a wider area
                                          > below the surface, and thus can harden an expanding sub-surface
                                          area of
                                          > polymer the longer it has the chance.)
                                          >
                                          > Best wishes, Tom
                                          >
                                          > Tom Parson
                                          > Now It's Up To You Publications
                                          > 157 S. Logan, Denver CO 80209
                                          > (303) 777-8951 home
                                          > (720) 480-5358 cell phone
                                          > http://members.aol.com/typetom
                                          >
                                          >
                                          > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                          >
                                        • chelsea parker
                                          hi- I own a c & p pilot press, and a few parts are needing to be replaced, along with the handle. The handle had been modified by the previous owner and I am
                                          Message 20 of 27 , Feb 7, 2007
                                            hi-

                                            I own a c & p pilot press, and a few parts are needing to be replaced, along with the handle. The handle had been modified by the previous owner and I am wanting a regular style one for printing. I have tried many places off of briar press, but no one seems to return my emails or phone calls. Does anyone have any clue about where I could get a c & p pilot press handle? If anyone could help me it would be greatly appreciated.


                                            Thanks so much.
                                            cheers
                                            -chelsea



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                                          • Gerald Lange
                                            John It s plastic. Once cured, it s all downhill from there. Moisture is not retained by polymer, at best a certain threshold of moisture preserves its initial
                                            Message 21 of 27 , Feb 8, 2007
                                              John

                                              It's plastic. Once cured, it's all downhill from there. Moisture is
                                              not retained by polymer, at best a certain threshold of moisture
                                              preserves its initial state in the short term. The molecular structure
                                              of manufactured polymers, however, has not proven stable in the long term.

                                              As much as the environmentalists condemn plastics, the
                                              preservationists wring their hands about how to save them. The
                                              Smithsonian can't keep astronaut suits from disintegrating much less
                                              keep Barbie Dolls from leaching.

                                              Gerald
                                              http://BielerPress.blogspot.com



                                              >
                                              > Perhaps our California group members have a more stable environment
                                              > so they do not notice the vargaries of moisture as it relates to
                                              > photopolymer plate materials. It does seem that the plates are
                                              > capable of some retention or loss of moisture after polymerization.
                                              >
                                              > John Henry
                                              >
                                            • Bethany Carter
                                              Have you tried Don Black Linecasting in Canada? www.donblack.ca That s were I got my little Craftsman press (like a Pilot) but I m not sure if they sell
                                              Message 22 of 27 , Feb 8, 2007
                                                Have you tried Don Black Linecasting in Canada? www.donblack.ca
                                                That's were I got my little Craftsman press (like a Pilot) but I'm not sure
                                                if they sell parts, it's worth a try though.

                                                Good luck,

                                                Bethany A. Carter


                                                >From: chelsea parker <piecemeal.press@...>
                                                >Reply-To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                                                >To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                                                >Subject: [PPLetterpress] c & p pilot press handle- HELP
                                                >Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2007 15:00:01 -0800 (PST)
                                                >
                                                >hi-
                                                >
                                                >I own a c & p pilot press, and a few parts are needing to be replaced,
                                                >along with the handle. The handle had been modified by the previous owner
                                                >and I am wanting a regular style one for printing. I have tried many places
                                                >off of briar press, but no one seems to return my emails or phone calls.
                                                >Does anyone have any clue about where I could get a c & p pilot press
                                                >handle? If anyone could help me it would be greatly appreciated.
                                                >
                                                >
                                                >Thanks so much.
                                                >cheers
                                                >-chelsea
                                                >
                                                >
                                                >
                                                >---------------------------------
                                                >Never Miss an Email
                                                >Stay connected with Yahoo! Mail on your mobile. Get started!
                                                >
                                                >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                                >

                                                _________________________________________________________________
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                                              • Joe Ranneba
                                                Hello... I am also looking for a Columbian #2 handle. This is very much like the Pilot handle meaning I could probably use a Pilot handle for this press. So,
                                                Message 23 of 27 , Feb 9, 2007
                                                  Hello...

                                                  I am also looking for a Columbian #2 handle. This is very much like the
                                                  Pilot handle meaning I could probably use a Pilot handle for this
                                                  press. So, in other words, I am interested as well.

                                                  Thank you!


                                                  At 05:00 PM 2/7/2007, you wrote:

                                                  >hi-
                                                  >
                                                  >I own a c & p pilot press, and a few parts are needing to be replaced,
                                                  >along with the handle. The handle had been modified by the previous owner
                                                  >and I am wanting a regular style one for printing. I have tried many
                                                  >places off of briar press, but no one seems to return my emails or phone
                                                  >calls. Does anyone have any clue about where I could get a c & p pilot
                                                  >press handle? If anyone could help me it would be greatly appreciated.
                                                  >
                                                  >Thanks so much.
                                                  >cheers
                                                  >-chelsea
                                                  >
                                                  >---------------------------------
                                                  >Never Miss an Email
                                                  >Stay connected with Yahoo! Mail on your mobile. Get started!
                                                  >
                                                  >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                                  >
                                                  >

                                                  Joseph Rannebarger
                                                  CITES Customer Service
                                                  Digital Computer Lab - Rm 1110
                                                  1304 W Springfield Ave
                                                  Urbana, IL 61801
                                                  217-333-1161


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