Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.
 

Re: post-exposure changes

Expand Messages
  • bielerpr
    ... Hi Mark Been a bit Water itself works, as a solvent, for altering the surface at any time prior to initial washout (pre-exposure, during exposure). The
    Message 1 of 19 , Jun 6, 2002
      --- In PPLetterpress@y..., "Mark Attwood" <mark@a...> wrote:
      > Dear Listers,
      >
      > I am about to start a book with an artist, using line art which we will scan
      > and make into polymer blocks.
      >
      > The artist has asked if he can somehow work on or manipulate the polymer
      > plates once they are made, perhaps in the way that one can work on a lino
      > block with caustic soda to get tonal areas?
      >
      > Has anyone had any success with anything like this? or possibly suggest any
      > methods which may work?
      >
      > Thanks,
      > Mark.

      Hi Mark

      Been a bit

      Water itself works, as a solvent, for altering the surface at any
      time prior to initial washout (pre-exposure, during exposure). The
      stuff seems to have an affinity for the acidic, such as vinegar?!?
      Don't know about alcohol, recently heard (?) not to use that as a
      plate solvent? Any form of pressure pre-exposure as well will effect
      the printing surface. Post exposure would then lock in whatever work
      had been accomplished.

      Afterwards, I'm not sure. Partly, it's a timed thing. The more post
      exposure the "harder" the plate gets. The more exposure to ozone, the
      more brittle, it kills them. And they have a relatively short life
      expectancy. No problem if you have negs (you can just remake them),
      but if you are manipulating the plate itself, a concern. I understand
      photopolymer can be revived with a carbon dioxide bath but... how do
      you do that?

      There has been an awful lot of experimentation with mixed results. I
      know someone who put potting soil on a plate, exposed it, and got
      incredible cloud-like effects. Who knows? A lot of printmakers have been
      working with photopolymer...

      Gerald
    • Harold Kyle
      ... For water-washable photopolymer isopropyl is okay (insofar as there is no reaction or swelling) but ethyl and methyl alcohol are not. But maybe that s the
      Message 2 of 19 , Jun 6, 2002
        On 6/6/02 4:50 AM, "bielerpr" <bieler@...> wrote:
        > Don't know about alcohol, recently heard (?) not to use that as a
        > plate solvent?

        For water-washable photopolymer isopropyl is okay (insofar as there is no
        reaction or swelling) but ethyl and methyl alcohol are not. But maybe that's
        the effect the artist is looking for.

        Harold

        ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
        Boxcar Press
        Fine Printing and Binding ~ Digital Letterpress Supplies
        640 Fellows Avenue ~ Syracuse, NY 13210
        315-473-0930 ~ phone and fax
        www.boxcarpress.com
        ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
      • Katie Harper
        Lots of printmakers manipulate polymer plates, as Gerald pointed out. The techniques can be interesting and effective for intaglio, where every little
        Message 3 of 19 , Jun 6, 2002
          Lots of printmakers manipulate polymer plates, as Gerald pointed out. The
          techniques can be interesting and effective for intaglio, where every little
          mark--whether gouged or eaten by solvent--might affect the way it inks. In
          relief, however, you are limited (I would think) to what stays on the
          surface instead of substances or marks that eat away at the top surface. I
          would think "additive" techniques might be better, such as spray paint for a
          sort of aquatint effect...?


          Katie Harper
          Ars Brevis Press
          Cincinnati, OH
          513-233-9588




          > From: "Mark Attwood" <mark@...>
          > Reply-To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
          > Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 08:37:04 +0000
          > To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
          > Subject: [PPLetterpress] post-exposure changes
          >
          > Dear Listers,
          >
          > I am about to start a book with an artist, using line art which we will scan
          > and make into polymer blocks.
          >
          > The artist has asked if he can somehow work on or manipulate the polymer
          > plates once they are made, perhaps in the way that one can work on a lino
          > block with caustic soda to get tonal areas?
          >
          > Has anyone had any success with anything like this? or possibly suggest any
          > methods which may work?
          >
          > Thanks,
          > Mark.
          >
          >
          >
          > Mark Attwood
          >
          > The Artists' Press
          > Box 623
          > Newtown
          > 2113
          > South Africa
          >
          > Tel. +27 11 836 5474
          > fax. +27 11 836 6858
          > mark@...
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > ? To respond to a post or post a message to the membership:
          > PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
          > ? Encountering problems? contact:
          > PPLetterpress-owner@yahoogroups.com
          > ? To unsubscribe:
          > PPLetterpress-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
          >
          > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
          >
          >
        • Gerald Lange
          ... Mark I don t know. Pressure, such as finger pressure, can adversely effect plates for type etc. I meant though, pressure prior to exposure. But, why not?
          Message 4 of 19 , Jun 6, 2002
            > You mentioned that any pressure on the polymer pre-exposure could be locked
            > in by exposure, and then printed. Does this mean that you could vacuum
            > textures like lace, leaves etc. onto the surface of the block, and then
            > "lock in" the dent by exposing it and print it?, like "Nature Printing" used
            > to work? I guess it would then be printed intaglio as Katie Harper
            > suggested. Has anyone experimented with this at all?
            >
            > Regards,
            > Mark.
            >
            > Mark Attwood
            > mark@...

            Mark

            I don't know. Pressure, such as finger pressure, can adversely effect plates
            for type etc. I meant though, pressure prior to exposure. But, why not? Any of
            the normal precautions one would take in rendering type could be reversed for
            effect in manipulating the plate. So yes, you can vacuum objects onto the
            plate and get imagery; what exactly that would look like I do not know.

            Let us know...

            There are a number of printmakers who have websites on their procedures. I've
            put as much as I cared to find (!) in the Bookmarks section.

            Gerald
          • Mark Attwood
            ... This is fascinating, what an amazing idea. Thanks Gerald, I will experiment and see what works for me. You mentioned that any pressure on the polymer
            Message 5 of 19 , Jun 6, 2002
              Gerald wrote:
              > There has been an awful lot of experimentation with mixed results. I
              > know someone who put potting soil on a plate, exposed it, and got
              > incredible cloud-like effects. Who knows? A lot of printmakers have been
              > working with photopolymer...

              This is fascinating, what an amazing idea. Thanks Gerald, I will experiment
              and see what works for me.

              You mentioned that any pressure on the polymer pre-exposure could be locked
              in by exposure, and then printed. Does this mean that you could vacuum
              textures like lace, leaves etc. onto the surface of the block, and then
              "lock in" the dent by exposing it and print it?, like "Nature Printing" used
              to work? I guess it would then be printed intaglio as Katie Harper
              suggested. Has anyone experimented with this at all?

              Regards,
              Mark.


              Mark Attwood
              mark@...
            • Mark Attwood
              ... Hi Katie, Very interesting, thank you, I will try the spray paint. Do you use the same polymer plates for intaglio as letterpress? I presume you would
              Message 6 of 19 , Jun 7, 2002
                Katie Wrote:

                > Lots of printmakers manipulate polymer plates, as Gerald pointed out. The
                > techniques can be interesting and effective for intaglio, where every little
                > mark--whether gouged or eaten by solvent--might affect the way it inks. In
                > relief, however, you are limited (I would think) to what stays on the
                > surface instead of substances or marks that eat away at the top surface. I
                > would think "additive" techniques might be better, such as spray paint for a
                > sort of aquatint effect...?

                Hi Katie,
                Very interesting, thank you, I will try the spray paint. Do you use the same
                polymer plates for intaglio as letterpress? I presume you would expose a
                positive rather than a negative for intaglio. sounds fascinating. I wish I
                had an etching press to experiment.

                regards,
                Mark.

                Mark Attwood

                The Artists' Press
                Box 623
                Newtown
                2113
                South Africa

                Tel. +27 11 836 5474
                fax. +27 11 836 6858
                mark@...
              • Katie Harper
                Yes, one uses positives. In printmaking classes, the students often make their own positives by drawing, painting, or otherwise marking on prepared acetate or
                Message 7 of 19 , Jun 7, 2002
                  Yes, one uses positives. In printmaking classes, the students often make
                  their own positives by drawing, painting, or otherwise marking on prepared
                  acetate or mylar, exposing through objects like leaves, lace, etc. We have
                  used the same plates for both intaglio and relief, but I don't know if what
                  is optimum for one is optimum for another. Most work has been highly
                  experiemental. There is a brand sold for intaglio called Solarplate that is
                  a bit different from the plate material that I use; seems to be thinner, and
                  has a greenish cast. I have not used this for relief printing, but I think
                  many do.

                  I have to admit to a bit of a grin while reading all this about manipulating
                  plates and deliberately breaking sacred rules to get interesting
                  experimental results. Seems that we often work under that corollary of
                  Murphy's Law: when you want some type of mark to print, it won't; and if you
                  don't want it to print, it will.


                  Katie Harper
                  Ars Brevis Press
                  Cincinnati, OH
                  513-233-9588




                  > From: "Mark Attwood" <mark@...>
                  > Reply-To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                  > Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 07:01:27 +0000
                  > To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                  > Subject: Re: [PPLetterpress] post-exposure changes
                  >
                  > Katie Wrote:
                  >
                  >> Lots of printmakers manipulate polymer plates, as Gerald pointed out. The
                  >> techniques can be interesting and effective for intaglio, where every little
                  >> mark--whether gouged or eaten by solvent--might affect the way it inks. In
                  >> relief, however, you are limited (I would think) to what stays on the
                  >> surface instead of substances or marks that eat away at the top surface. I
                  >> would think "additive" techniques might be better, such as spray paint for a
                  >> sort of aquatint effect...?
                  >
                  > Hi Katie,
                  > Very interesting, thank you, I will try the spray paint. Do you use the same
                  > polymer plates for intaglio as letterpress? I presume you would expose a
                  > positive rather than a negative for intaglio. sounds fascinating. I wish I
                  > had an etching press to experiment.
                  >
                  > regards,
                  > Mark.
                  >
                  > Mark Attwood
                  >
                  > The Artists' Press
                  > Box 623
                  > Newtown
                  > 2113
                  > South Africa
                  >
                  > Tel. +27 11 836 5474
                  > fax. +27 11 836 6858
                  > mark@...
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > ? To respond to a post or post a message to the membership:
                  > PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                  > ? Encountering problems? contact:
                  > PPLetterpress-owner@yahoogroups.com
                  > ? To unsubscribe:
                  > PPLetterpress-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
                  >
                  > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                  >
                  >
                • Charles Jones
                  Hello Mark, I routinely cut and punch the surface of the polymer. It is like a hard lino. Cheers, Charlie
                  Message 8 of 19 , Jun 18, 2002
                    Hello Mark,
                    I routinely cut and punch the surface of the polymer. It is like a hard
                    lino. Cheers, Charlie



                    _______________________________________________________________________________

                    Charles D. Jones
                    LaNana Creek Press
                    Crazy Creek Press

                    Nacogdoches, Texas
                    Artist/Teacher/Printer
                  • bielerpr
                    ... Charles Curious about this, the cutting that is (don t know what punching is!!!). Is there a length of duration involved? Plates tend to get hard and
                    Message 9 of 19 , Jun 23, 2002
                      --- In PPLetterpress@y..., Charles Jones <cjones@s...> wrote:
                      > Hello Mark,
                      > I routinely cut and punch the surface of the polymer. It is like a hard
                      > lino. Cheers, Charlie

                      Charles

                      Curious about this, the cutting that is (don't know what punching
                      is!!!). Is there a length of duration involved? Plates tend to get
                      hard and brittle if exposed to the elements or over-exposed in the
                      first place. How does the cutting compare to Resolite (sp?) or that
                      kitchen counter top material that some folks are using?

                      If the plates get harder and more brittle, would engraving, rather,
                      than cutting, be possible? Don't even know why I ask this because
                      I've had problems printing on older brittle plates, but maybe there
                      is something I am missing or not aware or.

                      Gerald
                    • Charles Jones
                      ... My approach to the polymer plates was to continue with some of the working techniques that were used on zinc and mag. I have a set of engraving tools that
                      Message 10 of 19 , Jun 24, 2002
                        >Curious about this, the cutting that is (don't know what punching
                        >is!!!). Is there a length of duration involved? Plates tend to get
                        >hard and brittle if exposed to the elements or over-exposed in the
                        >first place. How does the cutting compare to Resolite (sp?) or that
                        >kitchen counter top material that some folks are using?
                        >
                        >If the plates get harder and more brittle, would engraving, rather,
                        >than cutting, be possible? Don't even know why I ask this because
                        >I've had problems printing on older brittle plates, but maybe there
                        >is something I am missing or not aware or.
                        >
                        >Gerald

                        My approach to the polymer plates was to continue with some of the working
                        techniques that were used on zinc and mag. I have a set of engraving tools
                        that I have used when needed. Punching, or crible' with the tips of
                        various shaped tools was used to open up an area, add an accent, or in some
                        cases to create shapes. I also have a good set of woodcutting tools and
                        have found that when the plate is fresh, even after post-exposture (just)
                        the plate can be carved. It is easier before post exposure, and the image
                        can be proofed and then hardened. For example. a current work of mine
                        involved images of choppers landing. I made the plates with the blades
                        suggesting motion and then cut across them to create the illusion more
                        fully. The cutting is similiar to the resolite and no harder than boxwood
                        or masonite. Hope this explains more,
                        charlie



                        _______________________________________________________________________________

                        Charles D. Jones
                        LaNana Creek Press
                        Crazy Creek Press

                        Nacogdoches, Texas
                        Artist/Teacher/Printer
                      • Gerald Lange
                        ... Katie The Patmag is still available. Address etc can be found in the Database under Flatbases. There are about a dozen manufacturers of various flatbases,
                        Message 11 of 19 , Jun 28, 2002
                          Katie Harper wrote:
                          >
                          > I'm wondering if there alternative bases (read not so expensive) to the
                          > Boxcar or Bunting. I have been using wood, but find it to be inconsistent,
                          > even when carefully planed. Any suggestions?
                          >
                          > Gerald: Is the PATMAG base you talk about in your book still available?
                          >
                          > Katie Harper
                          > Ars Brevis Press
                          > Cincinnati, OH
                          > 513-233-9588

                          Katie

                          The Patmag is still available. Address etc can be found in the Database under
                          Flatbases. There are about a dozen manufacturers of various flatbases, I think
                          I listed about nine of them. The Patmag is only slighly cheaper than the
                          Boxcar base though as the sizes increase so do the Boxcar base prices, relatively.

                          I would never recommend wood as a base for anything, even photoengraved
                          plates. If you have the first edition of the book you may remember there were
                          instructions on how to make your own base. This was subsequently edited out
                          with the second edition as I no longer feel I can endorse magnetized rubber
                          sheeting bases except as an economic alternative. Low-cost alternatives of any kind
                          need also to be considered as alternatives to the possibility of fine work.

                          Gerald
                        • Katie Harper
                          I m wondering if there alternative bases (read not so expensive) to the Boxcar or Bunting. I have been using wood, but find it to be inconsistent, even when
                          Message 12 of 19 , Jun 28, 2002
                            I'm wondering if there alternative bases (read not so expensive) to the
                            Boxcar or Bunting. I have been using wood, but find it to be inconsistent,
                            even when carefully planed. Any suggestions?

                            Gerald: Is the PATMAG base you talk about in your book still available?



                            Katie Harper
                            Ars Brevis Press
                            Cincinnati, OH
                            513-233-9588
                          • Marnie Powers-Torrey
                            Katie- We used ground steel bases manufactured by a local metal shop. They are machined to a thousandth of an inch. Then we use spray adhesive to keep the
                            Message 13 of 19 , Jun 29, 2002
                              Katie-

                              We used ground steel bases manufactured by a local metal shop. They are machined to a thousandth of an inch. Then we use spray adhesive to keep the plate in place. Rudimentary, but we've had not problems so far.

                              Marnie

                              -----Original Message-----
                              From: Gerald Lange [mailto:bieler@...]
                              Sent: Friday, June 28, 2002 9:22 AM
                              To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                              Subject: Re: [PPLetterpress] Alternative Bases


                              Katie Harper wrote:
                              >
                              > I'm wondering if there alternative bases (read not so expensive) to the
                              > Boxcar or Bunting. I have been using wood, but find it to be inconsistent,
                              > even when carefully planed. Any suggestions?
                              >
                              > Gerald: Is the PATMAG base you talk about in your book still available?
                              >
                              > Katie Harper
                              > Ars Brevis Press
                              > Cincinnati, OH
                              > 513-233-9588

                              Katie

                              The Patmag is still available. Address etc can be found in the Database under
                              Flatbases. There are about a dozen manufacturers of various flatbases, I think
                              I listed about nine of them. The Patmag is only slighly cheaper than the
                              Boxcar base though as the sizes increase so do the Boxcar base prices, relatively.

                              I would never recommend wood as a base for anything, even photoengraved
                              plates. If you have the first edition of the book you may remember there were
                              instructions on how to make your own base. This was subsequently edited out
                              with the second edition as I no longer feel I can endorse magnetized rubber
                              sheeting bases except as an economic alternative. Low-cost alternatives of any kind
                              need also to be considered as alternatives to the possibility of fine work.

                              Gerald



                              * To respond to a post or post a message to the membership:
                              PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                              * Encountering problems? contact:
                              PPLetterpress-owner@yahoogroups.com
                              * To unsubscribe:
                              PPLetterpress-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

                              Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                            • Silver MayKitten
                              I use 3/4 lexan as a base with 11 point engravings, the cost is about the same as manufactured wood base. If you use two layers of 6 mil mounting tape the
                              Message 14 of 19 , Jul 2, 2002
                                I use 3/4" lexan as a base with 11 point engravings, the cost is
                                about the same as manufactured wood base. If you use two layers of
                                6 mil mounting tape the plate is nearly type high.

                                MayKitten

                                --- Katie Harper <knharper@...> wrote:
                                > I'm wondering if there alternative bases (read not so expensive)
                                > to the
                                > Boxcar or Bunting. I have been using wood, but find it to be
                                > inconsistent,
                                > even when carefully planed. Any suggestions?
                                >
                                > Gerald: Is the PATMAG base you talk about in your book still
                                > available?
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                > Katie Harper
                                > Ars Brevis Press
                                > Cincinnati, OH
                                > 513-233-9588
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                >


                                =====
                                Pagan, Pagan, what are you finding?
                                Yours is the road that winds lonely and far,
                                Strange are the shadows that round you come creeping,
                                Still through the clouds is the glint of a star!

                                From the book, Charge of the Goddess
                                BY: Doreen Valiente

                                __________________________________________________
                                Do You Yahoo!?
                                Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free
                                http://sbc.yahoo.com
                              • bielerpr
                                ... I tested out a Boxcar Base (w/anodized grid) and plate for the first time last night. It is a thing of beauty and while I am not a fan of plastic-backed
                                Message 15 of 19 , Jul 3, 2002
                                  --- In PPLetterpress@y..., Katie Harper <knharper@f...> wrote:
                                  > I'm wondering if there alternative bases (read not so expensive) to the
                                  > Boxcar or Bunting. I have been using wood, but find it to be inconsistent,
                                  > even when carefully planed. Any suggestions?


                                  I tested out a Boxcar Base (w/anodized grid) and plate for the first
                                  time last night. It is a thing of beauty and while I am not a fan of
                                  plastic-backed plates and using film or spray adhesives, it worked
                                  out quite well. The film adhesive seems much less problematic than
                                  others I have worked with. I was impressed. I certainly would
                                  recommend this as an economic alternative to the Bunting, especially
                                  for institutional uses. I wasn't able to test this for travel so at
                                  this point I can't verify the claim that they don't.

                                  I also tested this out on a film negative sent to me from Xante which
                                  was produced on one of their 2400dpi laser printers w/film neg
                                  processing. That, surprisingly, worked out well also. Even the small
                                  3pt type on the neg rendered and printed well given the fact that I
                                  was working on a press I was a bit unfamiliar with and not set up in
                                  the way I would normally want to work. This was a demo for my students.

                                  Think I could easily say that this is quite the combo for
                                  institutional/instructional use. For professional bookwork I'm still
                                  learning toward the Bunting.

                                  Gerald
                                • Katie Harper
                                  Gerald: I would love to hear your thoughts about why the Bunting is superior. I have heard a few negative comments about plate travel. I have been using the
                                  Message 16 of 19 , Jul 3, 2002
                                    Gerald: I would love to hear your thoughts about why the Bunting is
                                    superior. I have heard a few negative comments about plate travel. I have
                                    been using the Boxcar base for most of my work and have had no problems, at
                                    least not that cannot be traced to other causes-- but if I'm losing quality
                                    as a result of not using the Bunting, I would really like to know about it!


                                    Katie Harper
                                    Ars Brevis Press
                                    Cincinnati, OH
                                    513-233-9588




                                    > From: "bielerpr" <bieler@...>
                                    > Reply-To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                                    > Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2002 17:50:09 -0000
                                    > To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                                    > Subject: [PPLetterpress] Re: Alternative Bases
                                    >
                                    > --- In PPLetterpress@y..., Katie Harper <knharper@f...> wrote:
                                    >> I'm wondering if there alternative bases (read not so expensive) to the
                                    >> Boxcar or Bunting. I have been using wood, but find it to be inconsistent,
                                    >> even when carefully planed. Any suggestions?
                                    >
                                    >
                                    > I tested out a Boxcar Base (w/anodized grid) and plate for the first
                                    > time last night. It is a thing of beauty and while I am not a fan of
                                    > plastic-backed plates and using film or spray adhesives, it worked
                                    > out quite well. The film adhesive seems much less problematic than
                                    > others I have worked with. I was impressed. I certainly would
                                    > recommend this as an economic alternative to the Bunting, especially
                                    > for institutional uses. I wasn't able to test this for travel so at
                                    > this point I can't verify the claim that they don't.
                                    >
                                    > I also tested this out on a film negative sent to me from Xante which
                                    > was produced on one of their 2400dpi laser printers w/film neg
                                    > processing. That, surprisingly, worked out well also. Even the small
                                    > 3pt type on the neg rendered and printed well given the fact that I
                                    > was working on a press I was a bit unfamiliar with and not set up in
                                    > the way I would normally want to work. This was a demo for my students.
                                    >
                                    > Think I could easily say that this is quite the combo for
                                    > institutional/instructional use. For professional bookwork I'm still
                                    > learning toward the Bunting.
                                    >
                                    > Gerald
                                    >
                                    >
                                    >
                                    >
                                    > • To respond to a post or post a message to the membership:
                                    > PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                                    > • Encountering problems? contact:
                                    > PPLetterpress-owner@yahoogroups.com
                                    > • To unsubscribe:
                                    > PPLetterpress-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
                                    >
                                    > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                                    >
                                    >
                                  • Gerald Lange
                                    ... Katie I’ve not experienced plate travel with steel-backed plates on a Bunting when printing on a Vandercook. I know others have when printing solids on a
                                    Message 17 of 19 , Jul 3, 2002
                                      Katie Harper wrote:
                                      >
                                      > Gerald: I would love to hear your thoughts about why the Bunting is
                                      > superior. I have heard a few negative comments about plate travel. I have
                                      > been using the Boxcar base for most of my work and have had no problems, at
                                      > least not that cannot be traced to other causes-- but if I'm losing quality
                                      > as a result of not using the Bunting, I would really like to know about it!
                                      >

                                      > >
                                      > > --- In PPLetterpress@y..., Katie Harper <knharper@f...> wrote:
                                      > >> I'm wondering if there alternative bases (read not so expensive) to the
                                      > >> Boxcar or Bunting. I have been using wood, but find it to be inconsistent,
                                      > >> even when carefully planed. Any suggestions?
                                      > >


                                      Katie

                                      I’ve not experienced plate travel with steel-backed plates on a Bunting when
                                      printing on a Vandercook. I know others have when printing solids on a
                                      Heidleberg and similar presses. I’ve not heard from other printers that a
                                      Boxcar base solves this problem.

                                      It should be said that the Bunting Cerface was developed specifically for the
                                      printing industry and is available with options, such as kerfs, scribe lines,
                                      pin registration. They are customizable for a variety of printing
                                      applications. Any travel or registration problems that are the result of
                                      specific use instances are preventable with a properly configured base.

                                      But this is a bit perplexing to me. You said previously you were using wood
                                      bases and your inquiry concerned the Patmag; now you say you use the Boxcar.
                                      (Are you just fishing?)



                                      Is not “quality” determined by the artifact? The work process itself is only
                                      the road. That one tool or one material is better than other can be determined
                                      by how well that road was traveled. I was told once to look to the work of
                                      printers I admired. Good advice.

                                      Gerald
                                    • Harold Kyle
                                      Gerry: Thanks for sharing your positive experience with the Boxcar Base. I d like to respond to some of your recent comments... ... Plate travel on a
                                      Message 18 of 19 , Jul 5, 2002
                                        Gerry:

                                        Thanks for sharing your positive experience with the Boxcar Base. I'd like
                                        to respond to some of your recent comments...

                                        On 7/3/02 6:02 PM, "Gerald Lange" <bieler@...> wrote:
                                        > I've not experienced plate travel with steel-backed plates on a Bunting when
                                        > printing on a Vandercook. I know others have when printing solids on a
                                        > Heidleberg and similar presses.

                                        Plate travel on a Vandercook with Buntings is what got me started with
                                        non-magnetic bases in the first place. This is not likely to happen in
                                        bookwork, Gerry, but with large solids and heavy impression the plate tends
                                        to move away from the feedboard--often in 1/16" increments.

                                        I've talked with other printers who have experienced this as well. They
                                        often remedy the creep with spray adhesive, scotch tape, or large "blanks"
                                        butted up at the tail end of the printing plate to block the movement. Spray
                                        adhesive and scotch tape are non-magnetic, I might add. Magnets are very
                                        good at holding down, but they don't hold things quite as well side to side.

                                        > I've not heard from other printers that a Boxcar base solves this problem.

                                        Well, if the Boxcar Base doesn't solve plate creep, then we offer a full
                                        refund (and we have not needed to issue any refunds yet). This I've of
                                        perfect register applies to all plates larger than 0.5" by 0.5" mounted as
                                        recommended in our owner's manual. Creep has never been an issue with a
                                        Boxcar Base.

                                        > It should be said that the Bunting Cerface was developed specifically for the
                                        > printing industry and ....any travel or registration problems that are the
                                        > result of specific use instances are preventable with a properly configured
                                        > base.

                                        It sounds as if you're implying that the Bunting Cerface is unique because
                                        it was made specifically for the printing industry. However, the Boxcar Base
                                        was developed specifically for letterpress and therefore is perfectly suited
                                        to the needs of letterpress printers. The Boxcar Base uses the same mounting
                                        system as much of the flexo and rotary letterpress industry, and I think
                                        it's safe to say that more polymer plates are mounted by adhesive in "the
                                        industry" than by magnets.

                                        I wasn't aware of the pin registration system for Buntings. Do you need a
                                        punch to make holes in the plate? Are there posts or holes on the surface of
                                        the Bunting which limit the size of plates that you can use? Could you
                                        elaborate on how the kerfs fight plate drift? Do these kerfs limit where you
                                        can put the plate on the surface?

                                        Buntings are very well machined bases, and for bookwork I would agree that
                                        they provide a wonderful printing surface. But the Boxcar Bases do give
                                        plates' stronger shear strength, weaker peal strength (for easier
                                        repositioning), and are priced much more affordably. Assuming that for a
                                        specific job you don't experience plate drift with a Bunting, the printing
                                        quality with a Bunting and a Boxcar Base is identical.

                                        I feel with the current technology that the Boxcar Base is the best system,
                                        but we're always looking for ways to improve - if you experience any
                                        specific shortcomings while using the Boxcar Base, please let me know!

                                        Re: more affordable bases.
                                        "More affordable" bases often aren't made to the precise tolerances of a
                                        Boxcar Base, and prove to be more expensive because of time involved to hang
                                        excessive makeready, multiplied by every press run. Our bases nowadays come
                                        in well below our guaranteed tolerances and in many cases only have .0003"
                                        variation across the surface. This eliminates much of the makeready that
                                        would face the user of a poorly machined base. Boxcar Press has dependable
                                        bases on our shelves, ready to ship, backed with a guarantee--so you
                                        shouldn't have to go through the hassle of making a base yourself when the
                                        results probably won't be as consistent.

                                        Harold

                                        ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
                                        Boxcar Press
                                        Fine Printing and Binding ~ Digital Letterpress Supplies
                                        640 Fellows Avenue ~ Syracuse, NY 13210
                                        315-473-0930 ~ phone and fax
                                        www.boxcarpress.com
                                        ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
                                      Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.