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Re: Plates for H/Berg Cylinder

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  • cutncrease
    Want to know anything about photopolymers. Try this. Although flexo based we re dealing with the same plastics http://www.macdermidga.com/tips/sheet.html Wayne
    Message 1 of 9 , Apr 3, 2002
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      Want to know anything about photopolymers.
      Try this. Although flexo based we're dealing with the same plastics

      http://www.macdermidga.com/tips/sheet.html

      Wayne


      > Dear List,
      >
      > Just about to make a big plate purchase but I want to get it right. I'm running a KSBA heidelberg with mixed formes (pics and text) and printing to
      > smooth uncoated stock. So I have a few key questions about what pp plates I should be using:
      >
      > Metal backed (aluminium) or Foil backed.
      >
      > What Height: .060?
      >
      > What Relief: .040?
      >
      > What Duro: 65-75?
      >
      > Are there any real differences between manufacturers products whose plates match spec.
      >
      > Any info really appreciated.
      >
      > Thanks,
      > Wayne.
    • bielerpr
      Hi Wayne This URL has been in the Bookmarks section since the list went up. Quite useful but you do have to ignore the flexo stuff. Some folks don t know there
      Message 2 of 9 , Apr 4, 2002
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        Hi Wayne

        This URL has been in the Bookmarks section since the list went up.
        Quite useful but you do have to ignore the flexo stuff. Some folks
        don't know there is a difference. "Back-exposure" is my favorite.

        I'd say your specs below are about right. .060 (not much shallower
        than that) for the Heidelberg with a deep relief of about .048 to
        prevent ink runoff. On a Vandercook I run .037-.038 at .026 depth.
        Fairly hard durometer for what you want to do. But the different
        manufacturers' plates do matter. Stick with BASF (nyloprint) or
        Toyobo (Printight) or Jet. There is some cheap junk out on the
        market. Steelbacked if you go with magnetic bases. On a Heidelberg
        I'd say get Buntings to prevent plate travel. (I'm sure Kyle will
        disagree.) Just sold a chase fitting of Buntings for the exact same
        model! 17+ by 21+ right?

        URLs for these are in Bookmarks and listings in the Database.

        Gerald

        --- In PPLetterpress@y..., "cutncrease" <wayne@h...> wrote:
        > Want to know anything about photopolymers.
        > Try this. Although flexo based we're dealing with the same plastics
        >
        > http://www.macdermidga.com/tips/sheet.html
        >
        > Wayne
        >
        >
        > > Dear List,
        > >
        > > Just about to make a big plate purchase but I want to get it right. I'm running a KSBA heidelberg with mixed formes (pics and text) and printing to
        > > smooth uncoated stock. So I have a few key questions about what pp plates I should be using:
        > >
        > > Metal backed (aluminium) or Foil backed.
        > >
        > > What Height: .060?
        > >
        > > What Relief: .040?
        > >
        > > What Duro: 65-75?
        > >
        > > Are there any real differences between manufacturers products whose plates match spec.
        > >
        > > Any info really appreciated.
        > >
        > > Thanks,
        > > Wayne.
      • Gerald Lange
        Dear Dan The Bunting Bases come in a lot of weird sizes. The reason for this is that Bunting has configured the sizing to fit, in combination, the various
        Message 3 of 9 , Apr 5, 2002
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          Dear Dan

          The Bunting Bases come in a lot of weird sizes. The reason for this is that
          Bunting has configured the sizing to fit, in combination, the various chase
          sizes of the major presses: C & P, Heidelberg, B & K, Miehle, New Era. Most of
          the newer letterpress manufacturers (European) are running cylinder-shaped
          magnetic bases, which Bunting also supplies.

          Yes, while the magnetism of a Bunting is extremely strong, you can still
          experience plate travel on a Heidleberg, especially with large solids of the
          kind that you are running. Bunting provides bases with optional pin
          registration and scribelines. I suspect most of the commerecial outfits would
          buy these, but most folks running out of a studio might not want the added
          expense to what is already a considerable expense. A cheap run around is a
          butt bar, locked in with the base which prevents the plate from traveling.

          All best

          Gerald


          The Indian Hill Press wrote:
          >

          >
          > Could you describe in detail this "chase fitting"? And do you think
          > Bunting would have a sufficiently strong magnet to make spray
          > adhesive unnecessary?
          >
          > Dan Waters
          > Indian Hill Press
          >
        • The Indian Hill Press
          Dear Gerald: In your reply to Wayne, you mention that you just sold a chase fitting of Buntings for a KSBA. We run our KSBA all the time, but I ve been leery
          Message 4 of 9 , Apr 5, 2002
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            Dear Gerald:

            In your reply to Wayne, you mention that you just sold a chase
            fitting of Buntings for a KSBA.

            We run our KSBA all the time, but I've been leery of using polymer
            because of plate creep. (We use polymer frequently, but only on the
            Windmill.)

            Could you describe in detail this "chase fitting"? And do you think
            Bunting would have a sufficiently strong magnet to make spray
            adhesive unnecessary?

            Dan Waters
            Indian Hill Press

            >Hi Wayne
            >
            >This URL has been in the Bookmarks section since the list went up.
            >Quite useful but you do have to ignore the flexo stuff. Some folks
            >don't know there is a difference. "Back-exposure" is my favorite.
            >
            >I'd say your specs below are about right. .060 (not much shallower
            >than that) for the Heidelberg with a deep relief of about .048 to
            >prevent ink runoff. On a Vandercook I run .037-.038 at .026 depth.
            >Fairly hard durometer for what you want to do. But the different
            >manufacturers' plates do matter. Stick with BASF (nyloprint) or
            >Toyobo (Printight) or Jet. There is some cheap junk out on the
            >market. Steelbacked if you go with magnetic bases. On a Heidelberg
            >I'd say get Buntings to prevent plate travel. (I'm sure Kyle will
            >disagree.) Just sold a chase fitting of Buntings for the exact same
            >model! 17+ by 21+ right?
            >
            >URLs for these are in Bookmarks and listings in the Database.
            >
            >Gerald
          • Gaylord Schanilec
            Jerry. I too had the creeping problem with a bunting base on the KSBA. I wonder what Brad Hutchenson uses. Gaylor.d
            Message 5 of 9 , Apr 5, 2002
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              Jerry. I too had the creeping problem with a bunting base on the KSBA. I
              wonder what Brad Hutchenson uses. Gaylor.d

              The Indian Hill Press wrote:

              > Dear Gerald:
              >
              > In your reply to Wayne, you mention that you just sold a chase
              > fitting of Buntings for a KSBA.
              >
              > We run our KSBA all the time, but I've been leery of using polymer
              > because of plate creep. (We use polymer frequently, but only on the
              > Windmill.)
              >
              > Could you describe in detail this "chase fitting"? And do you think
              > Bunting would have a sufficiently strong magnet to make spray
              > adhesive unnecessary?
              >
              > Dan Waters
              > Indian Hill Press
              >
              > >Hi Wayne
              > >
              > >This URL has been in the Bookmarks section since the list went up.
              > >Quite useful but you do have to ignore the flexo stuff. Some folks
              > >don't know there is a difference. "Back-exposure" is my favorite.
              > >
              > >I'd say your specs below are about right. .060 (not much shallower
              > >than that) for the Heidelberg with a deep relief of about .048 to
              > >prevent ink runoff. On a Vandercook I run .037-.038 at .026 depth.
              > >Fairly hard durometer for what you want to do. But the different
              > >manufacturers' plates do matter. Stick with BASF (nyloprint) or
              > >Toyobo (Printight) or Jet. There is some cheap junk out on the
              > >market. Steelbacked if you go with magnetic bases. On a Heidelberg
              > >I'd say get Buntings to prevent plate travel. (I'm sure Kyle will
              > >disagree.) Just sold a chase fitting of Buntings for the exact same
              > >model! 17+ by 21+ right?
              > >
              > >URLs for these are in Bookmarks and listings in the Database.
              > >
              > >Gerald
              >
              >
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