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Re: [PPLetterpress] Solarplate

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  • Lee and Barbara Mason
    Katie, These are toray plates or similar and I know a letterpress commercial handprint place here in Portland Oregon that uses them...the store is called
    Message 1 of 9 , Apr 2 7:46 AM
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      Katie,
      These are toray plates or similar and I know a letterpress commercial
      handprint place here in Portland Oregon that uses them...the store is called
      Oblation and the owner's name is Ron, so if you want info desperately you
      could call him and get his source for the plates. They do not have a backing
      on them, it is just the polymer he exposes and washes out. They do a lot of
      invitations this way, all printed one at a time with a press on handmade
      paper which they also make.....I am not a letterpress person so did not look
      at the name of the press, but it has a platten that moves forward and back
      with rollers that apply the ink, everything sits upright so it is different
      from what I think of as a proofing press.
      Solar plates are wonderful, I use them for etching but the ones I get are
      steel backed.You can get the steel backed plates from Dan Welden, the author
      of the book "Printmaking in the Sun" at http://www.solarplate.com
      Barbara


      Subject: [PPLetterpress] Solarplate
      > Does anyone out there have any experience with Solarplate? Can it be used
      > for letterpress, and if so, is it worthwhile in terms of quality and
      price?
      > He will be doing everything by hand, by the way, and understands that the
      > quality may suffer. He's using this primarily for experimental work.
      > Katie Harper
      > Ars Brevis Press
      > Cincinnati, OH
      > 513-233-9588
    • cutncrease
      Want to know anything about photopolymers. Try this. Although flexo based we re dealing with the same plastics http://www.macdermidga.com/tips/sheet.html Wayne
      Message 2 of 9 , Apr 3 11:21 PM
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        Want to know anything about photopolymers.
        Try this. Although flexo based we're dealing with the same plastics

        http://www.macdermidga.com/tips/sheet.html

        Wayne


        > Dear List,
        >
        > Just about to make a big plate purchase but I want to get it right. I'm running a KSBA heidelberg with mixed formes (pics and text) and printing to
        > smooth uncoated stock. So I have a few key questions about what pp plates I should be using:
        >
        > Metal backed (aluminium) or Foil backed.
        >
        > What Height: .060?
        >
        > What Relief: .040?
        >
        > What Duro: 65-75?
        >
        > Are there any real differences between manufacturers products whose plates match spec.
        >
        > Any info really appreciated.
        >
        > Thanks,
        > Wayne.
      • bielerpr
        Hi Wayne This URL has been in the Bookmarks section since the list went up. Quite useful but you do have to ignore the flexo stuff. Some folks don t know there
        Message 3 of 9 , Apr 4 12:02 AM
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          Hi Wayne

          This URL has been in the Bookmarks section since the list went up.
          Quite useful but you do have to ignore the flexo stuff. Some folks
          don't know there is a difference. "Back-exposure" is my favorite.

          I'd say your specs below are about right. .060 (not much shallower
          than that) for the Heidelberg with a deep relief of about .048 to
          prevent ink runoff. On a Vandercook I run .037-.038 at .026 depth.
          Fairly hard durometer for what you want to do. But the different
          manufacturers' plates do matter. Stick with BASF (nyloprint) or
          Toyobo (Printight) or Jet. There is some cheap junk out on the
          market. Steelbacked if you go with magnetic bases. On a Heidelberg
          I'd say get Buntings to prevent plate travel. (I'm sure Kyle will
          disagree.) Just sold a chase fitting of Buntings for the exact same
          model! 17+ by 21+ right?

          URLs for these are in Bookmarks and listings in the Database.

          Gerald

          --- In PPLetterpress@y..., "cutncrease" <wayne@h...> wrote:
          > Want to know anything about photopolymers.
          > Try this. Although flexo based we're dealing with the same plastics
          >
          > http://www.macdermidga.com/tips/sheet.html
          >
          > Wayne
          >
          >
          > > Dear List,
          > >
          > > Just about to make a big plate purchase but I want to get it right. I'm running a KSBA heidelberg with mixed formes (pics and text) and printing to
          > > smooth uncoated stock. So I have a few key questions about what pp plates I should be using:
          > >
          > > Metal backed (aluminium) or Foil backed.
          > >
          > > What Height: .060?
          > >
          > > What Relief: .040?
          > >
          > > What Duro: 65-75?
          > >
          > > Are there any real differences between manufacturers products whose plates match spec.
          > >
          > > Any info really appreciated.
          > >
          > > Thanks,
          > > Wayne.
        • Gerald Lange
          Dear Dan The Bunting Bases come in a lot of weird sizes. The reason for this is that Bunting has configured the sizing to fit, in combination, the various
          Message 4 of 9 , Apr 5 12:27 AM
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            Dear Dan

            The Bunting Bases come in a lot of weird sizes. The reason for this is that
            Bunting has configured the sizing to fit, in combination, the various chase
            sizes of the major presses: C & P, Heidelberg, B & K, Miehle, New Era. Most of
            the newer letterpress manufacturers (European) are running cylinder-shaped
            magnetic bases, which Bunting also supplies.

            Yes, while the magnetism of a Bunting is extremely strong, you can still
            experience plate travel on a Heidleberg, especially with large solids of the
            kind that you are running. Bunting provides bases with optional pin
            registration and scribelines. I suspect most of the commerecial outfits would
            buy these, but most folks running out of a studio might not want the added
            expense to what is already a considerable expense. A cheap run around is a
            butt bar, locked in with the base which prevents the plate from traveling.

            All best

            Gerald


            The Indian Hill Press wrote:
            >

            >
            > Could you describe in detail this "chase fitting"? And do you think
            > Bunting would have a sufficiently strong magnet to make spray
            > adhesive unnecessary?
            >
            > Dan Waters
            > Indian Hill Press
            >
          • The Indian Hill Press
            Dear Gerald: In your reply to Wayne, you mention that you just sold a chase fitting of Buntings for a KSBA. We run our KSBA all the time, but I ve been leery
            Message 5 of 9 , Apr 5 6:50 AM
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              Dear Gerald:

              In your reply to Wayne, you mention that you just sold a chase
              fitting of Buntings for a KSBA.

              We run our KSBA all the time, but I've been leery of using polymer
              because of plate creep. (We use polymer frequently, but only on the
              Windmill.)

              Could you describe in detail this "chase fitting"? And do you think
              Bunting would have a sufficiently strong magnet to make spray
              adhesive unnecessary?

              Dan Waters
              Indian Hill Press

              >Hi Wayne
              >
              >This URL has been in the Bookmarks section since the list went up.
              >Quite useful but you do have to ignore the flexo stuff. Some folks
              >don't know there is a difference. "Back-exposure" is my favorite.
              >
              >I'd say your specs below are about right. .060 (not much shallower
              >than that) for the Heidelberg with a deep relief of about .048 to
              >prevent ink runoff. On a Vandercook I run .037-.038 at .026 depth.
              >Fairly hard durometer for what you want to do. But the different
              >manufacturers' plates do matter. Stick with BASF (nyloprint) or
              >Toyobo (Printight) or Jet. There is some cheap junk out on the
              >market. Steelbacked if you go with magnetic bases. On a Heidelberg
              >I'd say get Buntings to prevent plate travel. (I'm sure Kyle will
              >disagree.) Just sold a chase fitting of Buntings for the exact same
              >model! 17+ by 21+ right?
              >
              >URLs for these are in Bookmarks and listings in the Database.
              >
              >Gerald
            • Gaylord Schanilec
              Jerry. I too had the creeping problem with a bunting base on the KSBA. I wonder what Brad Hutchenson uses. Gaylor.d
              Message 6 of 9 , Apr 5 7:37 AM
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                Jerry. I too had the creeping problem with a bunting base on the KSBA. I
                wonder what Brad Hutchenson uses. Gaylor.d

                The Indian Hill Press wrote:

                > Dear Gerald:
                >
                > In your reply to Wayne, you mention that you just sold a chase
                > fitting of Buntings for a KSBA.
                >
                > We run our KSBA all the time, but I've been leery of using polymer
                > because of plate creep. (We use polymer frequently, but only on the
                > Windmill.)
                >
                > Could you describe in detail this "chase fitting"? And do you think
                > Bunting would have a sufficiently strong magnet to make spray
                > adhesive unnecessary?
                >
                > Dan Waters
                > Indian Hill Press
                >
                > >Hi Wayne
                > >
                > >This URL has been in the Bookmarks section since the list went up.
                > >Quite useful but you do have to ignore the flexo stuff. Some folks
                > >don't know there is a difference. "Back-exposure" is my favorite.
                > >
                > >I'd say your specs below are about right. .060 (not much shallower
                > >than that) for the Heidelberg with a deep relief of about .048 to
                > >prevent ink runoff. On a Vandercook I run .037-.038 at .026 depth.
                > >Fairly hard durometer for what you want to do. But the different
                > >manufacturers' plates do matter. Stick with BASF (nyloprint) or
                > >Toyobo (Printight) or Jet. There is some cheap junk out on the
                > >market. Steelbacked if you go with magnetic bases. On a Heidelberg
                > >I'd say get Buntings to prevent plate travel. (I'm sure Kyle will
                > >disagree.) Just sold a chase fitting of Buntings for the exact same
                > >model! 17+ by 21+ right?
                > >
                > >URLs for these are in Bookmarks and listings in the Database.
                > >
                > >Gerald
                >
                >
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