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Solarplate

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  • Katie Harper
    Hello! I ran into a former student last night who had just found a wonderful new book on printmaking with Solarplates (which I believe is a brand name?) He
    Message 1 of 9 , Apr 2, 2002
      Hello!

      I ran into a former student last night who had just found a wonderful new
      book on printmaking with Solarplates (which I believe is a brand name?) He
      asked me if these plates, which are sold by Daniel Smith and other
      printmaking suppliers, were the same as the ones I use. I know they have a
      different color (decidedly greenish cast), but beyond that I have not used
      these plates for relief/letterpress work.

      Does anyone out there have any experience with Solarplate? Can it be used
      for letterpress, and if so, is it worthwhile in terms of quality and price?
      He will be doing everything by hand, by the way, and understands that the
      quality may suffer. He's using this primarily for experimental work.


      Katie Harper
      Ars Brevis Press
      Cincinnati, OH
      513-233-9588
    • Harold Kyle
      ... These are steel-backed pad printing/rotary letterpress plates. The greenish ones you saw are Toyobo brand, I believe. You might inform your student that I
      Message 2 of 9 , Apr 2, 2002
        On 4/2/02 8:58 AM, "Katie Harper" <knharper@...> wrote:
        > Does anyone out there have any experience with Solarplate? Can it be used
        > for letterpress, and if so, is it worthwhile in terms of quality and price?

        These are steel-backed pad printing/rotary letterpress plates. The greenish
        ones you saw are Toyobo brand, I believe. You might inform your student that
        I sell the equivalent 0.017" Jet plate: $29 per A2 sheet (23.375x16.5) or
        $15 per A3 sheet (16.5x11.6875). Other thicknesses are also available.

        In general, intaglio printers prefer to use the thinnest plates
        available--frequently 0.017" thick (with 0.007" relief). Students at the
        university here use plates 0.029" thick (with 0.19" relief). These plates
        would not allow for much impression when printed letterpress and would be
        difficult to print on many types of paper. Letterpress printers generally
        opt for thicker plates, which allow more flexibility with impression and
        paper stock.

        Harold

        ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
        Boxcar Press
        Fine Printing and Binding ~ Digital Letterpress Supplies
        640 Fellows Avenue ~ Syracuse, NY 13210
        www.boxcarpress.com
        ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
      • Lee and Barbara Mason
        Katie, These are toray plates or similar and I know a letterpress commercial handprint place here in Portland Oregon that uses them...the store is called
        Message 3 of 9 , Apr 2, 2002
          Katie,
          These are toray plates or similar and I know a letterpress commercial
          handprint place here in Portland Oregon that uses them...the store is called
          Oblation and the owner's name is Ron, so if you want info desperately you
          could call him and get his source for the plates. They do not have a backing
          on them, it is just the polymer he exposes and washes out. They do a lot of
          invitations this way, all printed one at a time with a press on handmade
          paper which they also make.....I am not a letterpress person so did not look
          at the name of the press, but it has a platten that moves forward and back
          with rollers that apply the ink, everything sits upright so it is different
          from what I think of as a proofing press.
          Solar plates are wonderful, I use them for etching but the ones I get are
          steel backed.You can get the steel backed plates from Dan Welden, the author
          of the book "Printmaking in the Sun" at http://www.solarplate.com
          Barbara


          Subject: [PPLetterpress] Solarplate
          > Does anyone out there have any experience with Solarplate? Can it be used
          > for letterpress, and if so, is it worthwhile in terms of quality and
          price?
          > He will be doing everything by hand, by the way, and understands that the
          > quality may suffer. He's using this primarily for experimental work.
          > Katie Harper
          > Ars Brevis Press
          > Cincinnati, OH
          > 513-233-9588
        • cutncrease
          Want to know anything about photopolymers. Try this. Although flexo based we re dealing with the same plastics http://www.macdermidga.com/tips/sheet.html Wayne
          Message 4 of 9 , Apr 3, 2002
            Want to know anything about photopolymers.
            Try this. Although flexo based we're dealing with the same plastics

            http://www.macdermidga.com/tips/sheet.html

            Wayne


            > Dear List,
            >
            > Just about to make a big plate purchase but I want to get it right. I'm running a KSBA heidelberg with mixed formes (pics and text) and printing to
            > smooth uncoated stock. So I have a few key questions about what pp plates I should be using:
            >
            > Metal backed (aluminium) or Foil backed.
            >
            > What Height: .060?
            >
            > What Relief: .040?
            >
            > What Duro: 65-75?
            >
            > Are there any real differences between manufacturers products whose plates match spec.
            >
            > Any info really appreciated.
            >
            > Thanks,
            > Wayne.
          • bielerpr
            Hi Wayne This URL has been in the Bookmarks section since the list went up. Quite useful but you do have to ignore the flexo stuff. Some folks don t know there
            Message 5 of 9 , Apr 4, 2002
              Hi Wayne

              This URL has been in the Bookmarks section since the list went up.
              Quite useful but you do have to ignore the flexo stuff. Some folks
              don't know there is a difference. "Back-exposure" is my favorite.

              I'd say your specs below are about right. .060 (not much shallower
              than that) for the Heidelberg with a deep relief of about .048 to
              prevent ink runoff. On a Vandercook I run .037-.038 at .026 depth.
              Fairly hard durometer for what you want to do. But the different
              manufacturers' plates do matter. Stick with BASF (nyloprint) or
              Toyobo (Printight) or Jet. There is some cheap junk out on the
              market. Steelbacked if you go with magnetic bases. On a Heidelberg
              I'd say get Buntings to prevent plate travel. (I'm sure Kyle will
              disagree.) Just sold a chase fitting of Buntings for the exact same
              model! 17+ by 21+ right?

              URLs for these are in Bookmarks and listings in the Database.

              Gerald

              --- In PPLetterpress@y..., "cutncrease" <wayne@h...> wrote:
              > Want to know anything about photopolymers.
              > Try this. Although flexo based we're dealing with the same plastics
              >
              > http://www.macdermidga.com/tips/sheet.html
              >
              > Wayne
              >
              >
              > > Dear List,
              > >
              > > Just about to make a big plate purchase but I want to get it right. I'm running a KSBA heidelberg with mixed formes (pics and text) and printing to
              > > smooth uncoated stock. So I have a few key questions about what pp plates I should be using:
              > >
              > > Metal backed (aluminium) or Foil backed.
              > >
              > > What Height: .060?
              > >
              > > What Relief: .040?
              > >
              > > What Duro: 65-75?
              > >
              > > Are there any real differences between manufacturers products whose plates match spec.
              > >
              > > Any info really appreciated.
              > >
              > > Thanks,
              > > Wayne.
            • Gerald Lange
              Dear Dan The Bunting Bases come in a lot of weird sizes. The reason for this is that Bunting has configured the sizing to fit, in combination, the various
              Message 6 of 9 , Apr 5, 2002
                Dear Dan

                The Bunting Bases come in a lot of weird sizes. The reason for this is that
                Bunting has configured the sizing to fit, in combination, the various chase
                sizes of the major presses: C & P, Heidelberg, B & K, Miehle, New Era. Most of
                the newer letterpress manufacturers (European) are running cylinder-shaped
                magnetic bases, which Bunting also supplies.

                Yes, while the magnetism of a Bunting is extremely strong, you can still
                experience plate travel on a Heidleberg, especially with large solids of the
                kind that you are running. Bunting provides bases with optional pin
                registration and scribelines. I suspect most of the commerecial outfits would
                buy these, but most folks running out of a studio might not want the added
                expense to what is already a considerable expense. A cheap run around is a
                butt bar, locked in with the base which prevents the plate from traveling.

                All best

                Gerald


                The Indian Hill Press wrote:
                >

                >
                > Could you describe in detail this "chase fitting"? And do you think
                > Bunting would have a sufficiently strong magnet to make spray
                > adhesive unnecessary?
                >
                > Dan Waters
                > Indian Hill Press
                >
              • The Indian Hill Press
                Dear Gerald: In your reply to Wayne, you mention that you just sold a chase fitting of Buntings for a KSBA. We run our KSBA all the time, but I ve been leery
                Message 7 of 9 , Apr 5, 2002
                  Dear Gerald:

                  In your reply to Wayne, you mention that you just sold a chase
                  fitting of Buntings for a KSBA.

                  We run our KSBA all the time, but I've been leery of using polymer
                  because of plate creep. (We use polymer frequently, but only on the
                  Windmill.)

                  Could you describe in detail this "chase fitting"? And do you think
                  Bunting would have a sufficiently strong magnet to make spray
                  adhesive unnecessary?

                  Dan Waters
                  Indian Hill Press

                  >Hi Wayne
                  >
                  >This URL has been in the Bookmarks section since the list went up.
                  >Quite useful but you do have to ignore the flexo stuff. Some folks
                  >don't know there is a difference. "Back-exposure" is my favorite.
                  >
                  >I'd say your specs below are about right. .060 (not much shallower
                  >than that) for the Heidelberg with a deep relief of about .048 to
                  >prevent ink runoff. On a Vandercook I run .037-.038 at .026 depth.
                  >Fairly hard durometer for what you want to do. But the different
                  >manufacturers' plates do matter. Stick with BASF (nyloprint) or
                  >Toyobo (Printight) or Jet. There is some cheap junk out on the
                  >market. Steelbacked if you go with magnetic bases. On a Heidelberg
                  >I'd say get Buntings to prevent plate travel. (I'm sure Kyle will
                  >disagree.) Just sold a chase fitting of Buntings for the exact same
                  >model! 17+ by 21+ right?
                  >
                  >URLs for these are in Bookmarks and listings in the Database.
                  >
                  >Gerald
                • Gaylord Schanilec
                  Jerry. I too had the creeping problem with a bunting base on the KSBA. I wonder what Brad Hutchenson uses. Gaylor.d
                  Message 8 of 9 , Apr 5, 2002
                    Jerry. I too had the creeping problem with a bunting base on the KSBA. I
                    wonder what Brad Hutchenson uses. Gaylor.d

                    The Indian Hill Press wrote:

                    > Dear Gerald:
                    >
                    > In your reply to Wayne, you mention that you just sold a chase
                    > fitting of Buntings for a KSBA.
                    >
                    > We run our KSBA all the time, but I've been leery of using polymer
                    > because of plate creep. (We use polymer frequently, but only on the
                    > Windmill.)
                    >
                    > Could you describe in detail this "chase fitting"? And do you think
                    > Bunting would have a sufficiently strong magnet to make spray
                    > adhesive unnecessary?
                    >
                    > Dan Waters
                    > Indian Hill Press
                    >
                    > >Hi Wayne
                    > >
                    > >This URL has been in the Bookmarks section since the list went up.
                    > >Quite useful but you do have to ignore the flexo stuff. Some folks
                    > >don't know there is a difference. "Back-exposure" is my favorite.
                    > >
                    > >I'd say your specs below are about right. .060 (not much shallower
                    > >than that) for the Heidelberg with a deep relief of about .048 to
                    > >prevent ink runoff. On a Vandercook I run .037-.038 at .026 depth.
                    > >Fairly hard durometer for what you want to do. But the different
                    > >manufacturers' plates do matter. Stick with BASF (nyloprint) or
                    > >Toyobo (Printight) or Jet. There is some cheap junk out on the
                    > >market. Steelbacked if you go with magnetic bases. On a Heidelberg
                    > >I'd say get Buntings to prevent plate travel. (I'm sure Kyle will
                    > >disagree.) Just sold a chase fitting of Buntings for the exact same
                    > >model! 17+ by 21+ right?
                    > >
                    > >URLs for these are in Bookmarks and listings in the Database.
                    > >
                    > >Gerald
                    >
                    >
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