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Kreene?

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  • cutncrease
    I ve just built myself a neat little A3 exposure unit (8XSylania 350BLs which sit 2 inches above the plate) I m now attempting the vacuum frame. I ve seen much
    Message 1 of 5 , Mar 3 4:39 PM
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      I've just built myself a neat little A3 exposure unit (8XSylania 350BLs which sit 2 inches above the plate) I'm now attempting the vacuum frame. I've
      seen much info about using kreene or pvc instead of glass (which I understand absorbs important UVA). Just wondering if anyone could explain how the
      kreene is sealed around a vacuum blanket and frame in order to create good contact between plate and film. Should I be looking at some kind of
      snaplock system (like in a vacuum bagging process) or does the sheet of kreene go under a sheet of pvc which is hinged to the frame in a standard
      manner. Should I be using kreene in a fluro exposure system or is it for single point light sources only? Any help would be much appreciated.

      Many thanks,
      Wayne Davis
    • Brian Allen
      Wayne - I once had a home made exposure system and then later a used machine from Anderson & Vreeland. The kreene on the A&V machine covered all the holes in
      Message 2 of 5 , Mar 3 7:34 PM
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        Wayne -
        I once had a home made exposure system and then later a used machine from
        Anderson & Vreeland. The kreene on the A&V machine covered all the holes in
        the metal vacuum base. The suction of the pump was so strong there was no
        need for any other seal - about 25 psi as I recall. It created a very tight
        bond. The kreene was taped to the base at one end and to a metal rod at the
        other (kreene tightly rolled up) end. the neg/plate was positioned on the
        bed, the vacuum turned on, and the kreene rolled out over the base. The
        suction took hold progressively and the weight of the rod (hanging over the
        front edge of the base) completed the arrangement.
        My home made system was of plywood base, 1x1 inch spacers around the edge,
        and pegboard top, screwed together and sealed with silicone rubber. An
        opening was left in the 1x1 space for the "edging" tool of a hand held Dust
        Devil type vacuum cleaner. The suction of that was actually too much, bowing
        the pegboard, so I opened up some holes of the pegboard. I used clear
        acetate to hold the neg/plate (this was before I knew of the kreene), and
        the static charge it created was awful, bad plates resulting from dust
        covering serifs, etc.
        In both cases the lighting was a closely spaced set of fluorescent bulbs,
        about 2 inches above the exposure frame.
        Hope this helps - I'd be happy to answer further questions.
        Brian Allen
        Mountain View, California
        -------
        on 3/3/02 4:39 PM, cutncrease at wayne@... wrote:

        > I've just built myself a neat little A3 exposure unit (8XSylania 350BLs which
        > sit 2 inches above the plate) I'm now attempting the vacuum frame. I've
        > seen much info about using kreene or pvc instead of glass (which I understand
        > absorbs important UVA). Just wondering if anyone could explain how the
        > kreene is sealed around a vacuum blanket and frame in order to create good
        > contact between plate and film. Should I be looking at some kind of
        > snaplock system (like in a vacuum bagging process) or does the sheet of kreene
        > go under a sheet of pvc which is hinged to the frame in a standard
        > manner. Should I be using kreene in a fluro exposure system or is it for
        > single point light sources only? Any help would be much appreciated.
        >
        > Many thanks,
        > Wayne Davis
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > To respond to this message or post a message to the membership:
        > PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
        >
        > Encountering problems?
        > PPLetterpress-owner@yahoogroups.com
        >
        > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
        >


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      • typetom@aol.com
        In a message dated 3/3/2002 wayne@hiwire.com.au writes:
        Message 3 of 5 , Mar 3 9:10 PM
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          In a message dated 3/3/2002 wayne@... writes:
          << kreene or pvc instead of glass (which I understand absorbs important UVA)
          >>

          Hi Wayne,
          I don't believe using glass is a problem due to absorbing too much UV light.
          I have been getting good plates from a home set-up using a glass-covered
          vaccuum frame. Kreene may provide better contact between the negative and the
          plate, however. The problem I had with the glass is that the vaccuum
          apparently bends the glass slightly and thus may cause uneven contact between
          the neg and the plate. Following someone's suggestion on Letpress or PP
          lists, I tried placing pieces of matboard around the plate material, under
          the glass (about the same thickness as the neg and plate material together).
          This supports the glass during vaccuum and has solved the uneven contact.

          My 4 UV flourescent bulbs are about 1 1/2 inches above the plates. Exposure
          time is about 2 1/2 to 3 minutes depending on image detail and design. Sounds
          like you are making a bigger system. Mostly I'm making small plates, most
          less than 5x7, have done a few larger 8x10, though I often expose numerous
          smaller plates at the same time, frequently an 8 1/2 x 11 negative with
          multiple plates under it. I fit in the matboard all around and between the
          plates. (Note also: some difference in hand-washout between small and larger
          plates...).

          I'm glad to hear of others' exposure experience -- I was about to try kreene
          but found the glass unit works fine for me now.
          Let us know how it works for you! Tom

          Tom Parson
          Now It's Up To You Publications
          157 S. Logan, Denver CO 80209
          (303) 777-8951
          http://members.aol.com/typetom
        • Mark Attwood
          Wayne wrote:, ... I tot use a glass vacuum frame and find that I get really good sharp plates. I had one very large plate made by a company who uses the kreene
          Message 4 of 5 , Mar 4 1:01 AM
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            Wayne wrote:,
            > I don't believe using glass is a problem due to absorbing too much UV light.
            > I have been getting good plates from a home set-up using a glass-covered
            > vaccuum frame.

            I tot use a glass vacuum frame and find that I get really good sharp plates.
            I had one very large plate made by a company who uses the kreene cover, and
            find that my plates are just as sharp and print as well.

            regards,
            Mark.

            Mark Attwood

            The Artists' Press
            Box 623
            Newtown
            2113
            South Africa

            Tel. +27 11 836 5474
            fax. +27 11 836 6858
            mark@...


            ----------
            >From: typetom@...
            >To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
            >Subject: Re: [PPLetterpress] Kreene?
            >Date: Mon, Mar 4, 2002, 5:10 am
            >

            > In a message dated 3/3/2002 wayne@... writes:
            > << kreene or pvc instead of glass (which I understand absorbs important UVA)
            >>>
            >
            > Hi Wayne,
            > I don't believe using glass is a problem due to absorbing too much UV light.
            > I have been getting good plates from a home set-up using a glass-covered
            > vaccuum frame. Kreene may provide better contact between the negative and the
            > plate, however. The problem I had with the glass is that the vaccuum
            > apparently bends the glass slightly and thus may cause uneven contact between
            > the neg and the plate. Following someone's suggestion on Letpress or PP
            > lists, I tried placing pieces of matboard around the plate material, under
            > the glass (about the same thickness as the neg and plate material together).
            > This supports the glass during vaccuum and has solved the uneven contact.
            >
            > My 4 UV flourescent bulbs are about 1 1/2 inches above the plates. Exposure
            > time is about 2 1/2 to 3 minutes depending on image detail and design. Sounds
            > like you are making a bigger system. Mostly I'm making small plates, most
            > less than 5x7, have done a few larger 8x10, though I often expose numerous
            > smaller plates at the same time, frequently an 8 1/2 x 11 negative with
            > multiple plates under it. I fit in the matboard all around and between the
            > plates. (Note also: some difference in hand-washout between small and larger
            > plates...).
            >
            > I'm glad to hear of others' exposure experience -- I was about to try kreene
            > but found the glass unit works fine for me now.
            > Let us know how it works for you! Tom
            >
            > Tom Parson
            > Now It's Up To You Publications
            > 157 S. Logan, Denver CO 80209
            > (303) 777-8951
            > http://members.aol.com/typetom
            >
            > To respond to this message or post a message to the membership:
            > PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
            >
            > Encountering problems?
            > PPLetterpress-owner@yahoogroups.com
            >
            > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
            >
          • Joel Benson
            Hi Wayne, I just spent all weekend working on the same project! I have a NuArc exposure unit of some kind that I m modifying to do photopolymer with. I built
            Message 5 of 5 , Mar 4 9:50 AM
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              Hi Wayne,

              I just spent all weekend working on the same project! I have a NuArc exposure unit of some kind that I'm modifying to do photopolymer with. I built a vacuum table to put in the box that I modeled on the Polimero one that I used to use.

              I mounted a scrap of formica on a piece of plywood (I would think a piece of old countertop or even that melamine that they make cheap furniture out of would do) and then scored a grid into the surface with a router. Careful not to run the scores off the edge of the formica, keep an edge of about an inch. I drilled five 1/8" holes through crosspoints in the formica, and ran the vacuum hose to the five holes.

              Brian Allen is right about the suction being enough to hold the Kreene down. Every now and then you may get a wrinkle in the Kreene that you have to weight down with a lead slug, but other than that...

              I tried using the Kreene on top of a rubber vacuum blanket that came in the exposure unit, and that is designed to be pulled up against glass by the suction. I couldn't get it to seal, even with the Kreene mounted in the frame that had held the glass. My conclusion is that in a vacuum assembly you need one flexible surface and one rigid surface to get a good seal. Rubber vacuum blanket against glass works, Kreene against formica works.

              I'm more comfortable making the plates under Kreene because that is how I learned to do it. I'm glad to hear that others have figured out how to do it consistently with glass, and I've taken notes for the future. It is nice to know there isn't only one way to do it.

              BTW, I got my vacuum pump second-hand from Harold Kyle at Boxcar Press and I believe he said he had a couple more, if you're looking for one.

              Joel

              Joel Benson
              Dependable Letterpress
              San Francisco

              -----Original Message-----
              From: cutncrease [mailto:wayne@...]
              Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2002 4:40 PM
              To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
              Subject: [PPLetterpress] Kreene?


              I've just built myself a neat little A3 exposure unit (8XSylania 350BLs which sit 2 inches above the plate) I'm now attempting the vacuum frame. I've
              seen much info about using kreene or pvc instead of glass (which I understand absorbs important UVA). Just wondering if anyone could explain how the
              kreene is sealed around a vacuum blanket and frame in order to create good contact between plate and film. Should I be looking at some kind of
              snaplock system (like in a vacuum bagging process) or does the sheet of kreene go under a sheet of pvc which is hinged to the frame in a standard
              manner. Should I be using kreene in a fluro exposure system or is it for single point light sources only? Any help would be much appreciated.

              Many thanks,
              Wayne Davis








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