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Re: offset printing a letterpress design

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  • carey johnson
    Casey, (!) This is *very* *very* helpful. Did you get 4-color separations of the whole image after you colored the tiffs? Or output each (spot) color
    Message 1 of 23 , Jul 17 9:10 AM
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      Casey,

      (!) This is *very* *very* helpful. Did you get 4-color separations of
      the whole image after you colored the tiffs? Or output each (spot)
      color separately?




      --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, Casey McGarr <casey@m...> wrote:
      > I did a poster at Hatch Show Print and some tin designs and the one
      thing we
      > did for the poster was printing each color separate and scan those
      gray
      > scale in to the computer. Then in Photoshop save each file as tiff,
      then
      > bring the files into Quark Express and coloring the images there.
      The
      > transparent inks used in offset gave the same overprint impression
      as
      > letterpress printing plus you have more control. The only thing it
      didn't
      > have was the tactile feel but it was a great look.
      >
      > My 2 cents,
      >
      > ::
      > Casey McGarr
      > McGarr Creative
      > http://www.mcgarrcreative.com/
    • carey johnson
      because i don t have control over that part of the process. i m hired by a music manager/producer who s shopping a recording to a label. and the label, i
      Message 2 of 23 , Jul 17 9:29 AM
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        because i don't have control over that part of the process. i'm hired
        by a music manager/producer who's shopping a recording to a label.
        and the label, i believe, is going to make that decision. i was asked
        to provide film. but they want letterpress art. if it were up to me,
        sure, i'd rather see it done letterpress. still, i think the point
        about doing a run of a thousand or more with wood type not being such
        a great idea is well taken anyhow...


        --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, Michael T Metz <mtmetz@s...>
        wrote:
        > Did you say why you didn't want to print it letterpress?
        >
        > -----Original Message-----
        > From: carey johnson [mailto:careysuejohnson@y...]
        > Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 11:04 AM
        > To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
        > Subject: [PPLetterpress] Re: offset printing a letterpress design
        >
        >
        > I don't think it really needs to be done all that cheaply. But
        > frankly, I don't know the budget. It won't be large, mind you, but
        it
        > probably won't be nothing either. The thing is, the run will be
        > larger than can be happily produced on a Vandercook. And your point
        > about a run that big & chancing the type is well taken. I still
        don't
        > know the numbers of the run, either. At least a thousand. Likely
        more.
        >
        > But are you suggesting that I print (proof) (on the vandercook) and
        > scan each color separately instead of going cmyk? (i.e. Go with
        > pantone spot color for all of it?) I was wondering if that might be
        a
        > way to go.... Sort of try to reproduce a spot color print on an
        > offset press... and scan each color with a slightly different line
        > screen? I think that seems like a cool idea.
        >
        >
        > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "eroustom" <ERoustom@w...>
        > wrote:
        > > I'm curiouse if this had to be done on the cheap, with a straight
        > desktop scan... I've got some art school printmaking ideas (as in no
        > > budget whatsoever) to lend on this question:
        > > My first suggestion would be to avoid the dot. Don't produce a
        > half tone, but after you edit your (high res. grayscale) scan,
        > > produce line art (bitmap) - if you get it right, the only thing
        > missing will be the impression. Second consider overprinting
        > different
        > > proofs (with different densities of coverage) thereby producing a
        > duotone, and adding some depth and complexity to the
        > > ink/color that is often missing from offset.
        > >
        > > Or find someone with a cylinder press to run the job for real (if
        I
        > were to do it, I'd make a plate from a scan anyway - I wouldn't
        > > want to take a chance with clunky old wood type surviving 1000
        > impressions without the lock-up exploding).
        > >
        > > Good luck.
        > >
        > > Elias Roustom
        > >
        > > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Mats Broberg"
        > <mats.broberg@a...> wrote:
        > > > > I have plans to offset print a letterpress design done with
        > wood
        > > > > type. We'll print it it on a vandercook, then scan the art to
        > create
        > > > > films. Does anyone have any cautionary advice for the process?
        > Just
        > > > > wondering...
        > > > >
        > > > > All comments welcome.
        > > > >
        > > > > Thanks!
        > > > > Carey Johnson
        > > >
        > > > Carey,
        > > >
        > > > Jim makes good points about the problem involved in reproducing
        a
        > > > letterpress printed item in offset.
        > > >
        > > > If you aim for expressing some of the tactile quality of the
        > item, the
        > > > way to go is probably to work with a professional photographer
        > and spend
        > > > a few hours in tweaking studio lighting. I recall a project a
        few
        > years
        > > > ago when I worked with a photographer to get a good image of a
        > piece of
        > > > watercolor artwork. At first we tried a traditional reprographic
        > setup
        > > > of the lights, merely to get a starting point, and the result
        was
        > not
        > > > impressive. We had to spend alot of time working with different
        > angles
        > > > and different types of lightsources to capture some of the
        > > > three-dimensional qualities of the watercolor. If the goal is a
        > mere
        > > > facsimile, then it's another matter and a traditional
        > reprographic setup
        > > > of lighting may work.
        > > >
        > > > Your budget may or may not make it possible to work with a
        > photographer,
        > > > and if it doesn't, you can scan the item on a scanner. However,
        > to get
        > > > as good a result as possible you may prefer to have it scanned
        on
        > a drum
        > > > scanner at a commercial process engraving / prepress company. In
        > the
        > > > specs, many consumer-grade and semi-professional scanners
        compare
        > well
        > > > with high-end equipment, but there are more to it than color
        > depth and
        > > > resolution. Many times a skilled operator and an old Crosfield
        > Magnascan
        > > > (which took up half a room) creates results that, still, can be
        > > > absolutely outstanding.
        > > >
        > > > When the time comes to the offset printing of the scan, you may
        > want to
        > > > contact a printing office who works with waterless offset, or FM
        > screens
        > > > / hybrid screens. Waterless offset makes it possible to
        reproduce
        > your
        > > > image using a finer screen, and FM screens (frequency modulated)
        > and
        > > > hybrid screens are methods to screen your image that have some
        > > > advantages over traditional AM screens (amplitude modulated).
        > > >
        > > > Good luck and don't hesitate to drop me a line if you have more
        > > > questions.
        > > >
        > > > Best regards,
        > > > Mats Broberg
        > > >
        > > > Stockholm - S
        >
        >
        >
        > • To respond to a post or post a message to the membership:
        > PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
        > • Encountering problems? contact:
        > PPLetterpress-owner@yahoogroups.com
        > • To unsubscribe:
        > PPLetterpress-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
        >
        > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
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      • Michael T Metz
        Did you say why you didn t want to print it letterpress? ... From: carey johnson [mailto:careysuejohnson@yahoo.com] Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 11:04 AM To:
        Message 3 of 23 , Jul 17 9:30 AM
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          Did you say why you didn't want to print it letterpress?

          -----Original Message-----
          From: carey johnson [mailto:careysuejohnson@...]
          Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 11:04 AM
          To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
          Subject: [PPLetterpress] Re: offset printing a letterpress design


          I don't think it really needs to be done all that cheaply. But
          frankly, I don't know the budget. It won't be large, mind you, but it
          probably won't be nothing either. The thing is, the run will be
          larger than can be happily produced on a Vandercook. And your point
          about a run that big & chancing the type is well taken. I still don't
          know the numbers of the run, either. At least a thousand. Likely more.

          But are you suggesting that I print (proof) (on the vandercook) and
          scan each color separately instead of going cmyk? (i.e. Go with
          pantone spot color for all of it?) I was wondering if that might be a
          way to go.... Sort of try to reproduce a spot color print on an
          offset press... and scan each color with a slightly different line
          screen? I think that seems like a cool idea.


          --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "eroustom" <ERoustom@w...>
          wrote:
          > I'm curiouse if this had to be done on the cheap, with a straight
          desktop scan... I've got some art school printmaking ideas (as in no
          > budget whatsoever) to lend on this question:
          > My first suggestion would be to avoid the dot. Don't produce a
          half tone, but after you edit your (high res. grayscale) scan,
          > produce line art (bitmap) - if you get it right, the only thing
          missing will be the impression. Second consider overprinting
          different
          > proofs (with different densities of coverage) thereby producing a
          duotone, and adding some depth and complexity to the
          > ink/color that is often missing from offset.
          >
          > Or find someone with a cylinder press to run the job for real (if I
          were to do it, I'd make a plate from a scan anyway - I wouldn't
          > want to take a chance with clunky old wood type surviving 1000
          impressions without the lock-up exploding).
          >
          > Good luck.
          >
          > Elias Roustom
          >
          > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Mats Broberg"
          <mats.broberg@a...> wrote:
          > > > I have plans to offset print a letterpress design done with
          wood
          > > > type. We'll print it it on a vandercook, then scan the art to
          create
          > > > films. Does anyone have any cautionary advice for the process?
          Just
          > > > wondering...
          > > >
          > > > All comments welcome.
          > > >
          > > > Thanks!
          > > > Carey Johnson
          > >
          > > Carey,
          > >
          > > Jim makes good points about the problem involved in reproducing a
          > > letterpress printed item in offset.
          > >
          > > If you aim for expressing some of the tactile quality of the
          item, the
          > > way to go is probably to work with a professional photographer
          and spend
          > > a few hours in tweaking studio lighting. I recall a project a few
          years
          > > ago when I worked with a photographer to get a good image of a
          piece of
          > > watercolor artwork. At first we tried a traditional reprographic
          setup
          > > of the lights, merely to get a starting point, and the result was
          not
          > > impressive. We had to spend alot of time working with different
          angles
          > > and different types of lightsources to capture some of the
          > > three-dimensional qualities of the watercolor. If the goal is a
          mere
          > > facsimile, then it's another matter and a traditional
          reprographic setup
          > > of lighting may work.
          > >
          > > Your budget may or may not make it possible to work with a
          photographer,
          > > and if it doesn't, you can scan the item on a scanner. However,
          to get
          > > as good a result as possible you may prefer to have it scanned on
          a drum
          > > scanner at a commercial process engraving / prepress company. In
          the
          > > specs, many consumer-grade and semi-professional scanners compare
          well
          > > with high-end equipment, but there are more to it than color
          depth and
          > > resolution. Many times a skilled operator and an old Crosfield
          Magnascan
          > > (which took up half a room) creates results that, still, can be
          > > absolutely outstanding.
          > >
          > > When the time comes to the offset printing of the scan, you may
          want to
          > > contact a printing office who works with waterless offset, or FM
          screens
          > > / hybrid screens. Waterless offset makes it possible to reproduce
          your
          > > image using a finer screen, and FM screens (frequency modulated)
          and
          > > hybrid screens are methods to screen your image that have some
          > > advantages over traditional AM screens (amplitude modulated).
          > >
          > > Good luck and don't hesitate to drop me a line if you have more
          > > questions.
          > >
          > > Best regards,
          > > Mats Broberg
          > >
          > > Stockholm - S



          • To respond to a post or post a message to the membership:
          PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
          • Encountering problems? contact:
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        • InkPotJim@aol.com
          In a message dated 7/17/2003 12:31:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time, ... Ah, the dreaded music manager and CD packaging job. Get your money up front! Just kidding.
          Message 4 of 23 , Jul 17 1:41 PM
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            In a message dated 7/17/2003 12:31:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
            careysuejohnson@... writes:

            > i'm hired
            > by a music manager/producer who's shopping a recording to a label.
            > and the label, i believe, is going to make that decision. i was asked
            > to provide film. but they want letterpress art.

            Ah, the dreaded music manager and CD packaging job. Get your money up front!

            Just kidding.

            Most CD packaging is printed in gangs, or groups of more than one job at a
            time, making it a)cheap for the label, but b) impossible to control. Don't waste
            too much time with technical details of the printing process they're using
            then -- just concentrate on getting them the best film you can.

            I'll assume that since they've hired you to provide film, that it's money out
            of your pocket (which they may or may not have to reimburse you for,
            depending on your contract) to have transparencies and scans made, etc. If it falls
            under a reimburseable for you and they approve, go for the "raking light" and
            get a nice shot taken, then send them the bill.

            CD labels as a whole are printed 4-color en masse, unless you're REM or some
            other multi platinum artist that the record co. can afford to pull out all the
            stops for. So spot colors are the exception rather than the rule. Especially
            for printers that are putting 7 other CD labels on the same press sheet and
            can't afford to accomodate special requests. It's the same principle as the
            cheapo postcard printers. Your situation might be different, but there's a good
            chance what im describing is the situation youre in.

            And then like any good businessperson, you should then immediately remind
            them that you own the reproduction rights to the cover artwork beyond any use on
            CD covers, and "By the way, would the band or the label be interested in
            buying a limited edition of the actual letterpress artwork to give as gifts?".

            If you cant have an actual letterpressed CD cover, at least you can get some
            prints into the hands of someone who might appreciate them.

            Jim Harrison
            DECA Design
            Gainesville, FL


            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • carey johnson
            Hm. Thanks. All smart things to keep in mind. And yes, I do believe that is the position I m in. Also, I appreciate the tip about the gang printing methods for
            Message 5 of 23 , Jul 17 2:42 PM
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              Hm. Thanks. All smart things to keep in mind. And yes, I do believe
              that is the position I'm in. Also, I appreciate the tip about the
              gang printing methods for CD's. Hadn't thought about that. This one
              is a digipack thing. Don't know if that'll make a difference, but I
              believe you're right about the budget approach. We shall see...



              --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, InkPotJim@a... wrote:
              > In a message dated 7/17/2003 12:31:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
              > careysuejohnson@y... writes:
              >
              > > i'm hired
              > > by a music manager/producer who's shopping a recording to a
              label.
              > > and the label, i believe, is going to make that decision. i was
              asked
              > > to provide film. but they want letterpress art.
              >
              > Ah, the dreaded music manager and CD packaging job. Get your money
              up front!
              >
              > Just kidding.
              >
              > Most CD packaging is printed in gangs, or groups of more than one
              job at a
              > time, making it a)cheap for the label, but b) impossible to
              control. Don't waste
              > too much time with technical details of the printing process
              they're using
              > then -- just concentrate on getting them the best film you can.
              >
              > I'll assume that since they've hired you to provide film, that it's
              money out
              > of your pocket (which they may or may not have to reimburse you
              for,
              > depending on your contract) to have transparencies and scans made,
              etc. If it falls
              > under a reimburseable for you and they approve, go for the "raking
              light" and
              > get a nice shot taken, then send them the bill.
              >
              > CD labels as a whole are printed 4-color en masse, unless you're
              REM or some
              > other multi platinum artist that the record co. can afford to pull
              out all the
              > stops for. So spot colors are the exception rather than the rule.
              Especially
              > for printers that are putting 7 other CD labels on the same press
              sheet and
              > can't afford to accomodate special requests. It's the same
              principle as the
              > cheapo postcard printers. Your situation might be different, but
              there's a good
              > chance what im describing is the situation youre in.
              >
              > And then like any good businessperson, you should then immediately
              remind
              > them that you own the reproduction rights to the cover artwork
              beyond any use on
              > CD covers, and "By the way, would the band or the label be
              interested in
              > buying a limited edition of the actual letterpress artwork to give
              as gifts?".
              >
              > If you cant have an actual letterpressed CD cover, at least you can
              get some
              > prints into the hands of someone who might appreciate them.
              >
              > Jim Harrison
              > DECA Design
              > Gainesville, FL
              >
              >
              > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • cmcgarr1957
              each color scanned in and then colored in quark, spot color, not 4 color process.
              Message 6 of 23 , Jul 17 2:46 PM
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                each color scanned in and then colored in quark, spot color, not 4 color
                process.

                --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "carey johnson" <
                careysuejohnson@y...> wrote:
                > Casey,
                >
                > (!) This is *very* *very* helpful. Did you get 4-color separations of
                > the whole image after you colored the tiffs? Or output each (spot)
                > color separately?
                >
                >
                >
                >
                > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, Casey McGarr <casey@m...>
                wrote:
                > > I did a poster at Hatch Show Print and some tin designs and the one
                > thing we
                > > did for the poster was printing each color separate and scan those
                > gray
                > > scale in to the computer. Then in Photoshop save each file as tiff,
                > then
                > > bring the files into Quark Express and coloring the images there.
                > The
                > > transparent inks used in offset gave the same overprint impression
                > as
                > > letterpress printing plus you have more control. The only thing it
                > didn't
                > > have was the tactile feel but it was a great look.
                > >
                > > My 2 cents,
                > >
                > > ::
                > > Casey McGarr
                > > McGarr Creative
                > > http://www.mcgarrcreative.com/
              • carey johnson
                thank you! ... color ... separations of ... (spot) ... one ... those ... tiff, ... there. ... impression ... it
                Message 7 of 23 , Jul 17 3:09 PM
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                  thank you!

                  --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "cmcgarr1957" <casey@m...>
                  wrote:
                  > each color scanned in and then colored in quark, spot color, not 4
                  color
                  > process.
                  >
                  > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "carey johnson" <
                  > careysuejohnson@y...> wrote:
                  > > Casey,
                  > >
                  > > (!) This is *very* *very* helpful. Did you get 4-color
                  separations of
                  > > the whole image after you colored the tiffs? Or output each
                  (spot)
                  > > color separately?
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  > > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, Casey McGarr <casey@m...>
                  > wrote:
                  > > > I did a poster at Hatch Show Print and some tin designs and the
                  one
                  > > thing we
                  > > > did for the poster was printing each color separate and scan
                  those
                  > > gray
                  > > > scale in to the computer. Then in Photoshop save each file as
                  tiff,
                  > > then
                  > > > bring the files into Quark Express and coloring the images
                  there.
                  > > The
                  > > > transparent inks used in offset gave the same overprint
                  impression
                  > > as
                  > > > letterpress printing plus you have more control. The only thing
                  it
                  > > didn't
                  > > > have was the tactile feel but it was a great look.
                  > > >
                  > > > My 2 cents,
                  > > >
                  > > > ::
                  > > > Casey McGarr
                  > > > McGarr Creative
                  > > > http://www.mcgarrcreative.com/
                • Michael T Metz
                  The printing can still be done letterpress without printing the full run with the wood type. Plates can be made from letterpress proofs much easier than what
                  Message 8 of 23 , Jul 17 3:32 PM
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                    The printing can still be done letterpress without printing
                    the full run with the wood type. Plates can be made from
                    letterpress proofs much easier than what you will have to do
                    to get a photograph to reproduce the effect. The end product
                    can then be printed from the new plates.

                    -----Original Message-----
                    From: carey johnson [mailto:careysuejohnson@...]
                    Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 11:30 AM
                    To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                    Subject: [PPLetterpress] Re: offset printing a letterpress design


                    because i don't have control over that part of the process. i'm hired
                    by a music manager/producer who's shopping a recording to a label.
                    and the label, i believe, is going to make that decision. i was asked
                    to provide film. but they want letterpress art. if it were up to me,
                    sure, i'd rather see it done letterpress. still, i think the point
                    about doing a run of a thousand or more with wood type not being such
                    a great idea is well taken anyhow...


                    --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, Michael T Metz <mtmetz@s...>
                    wrote:
                    > Did you say why you didn't want to print it letterpress?
                    >
                    > -----Original Message-----
                    > From: carey johnson [mailto:careysuejohnson@y...]
                    > Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 11:04 AM
                    > To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                    > Subject: [PPLetterpress] Re: offset printing a letterpress design
                    >
                    >
                    > I don't think it really needs to be done all that cheaply. But
                    > frankly, I don't know the budget. It won't be large, mind you, but
                    it
                    > probably won't be nothing either. The thing is, the run will be
                    > larger than can be happily produced on a Vandercook. And your point
                    > about a run that big & chancing the type is well taken. I still
                    don't
                    > know the numbers of the run, either. At least a thousand. Likely
                    more.
                    >
                    > But are you suggesting that I print (proof) (on the vandercook) and
                    > scan each color separately instead of going cmyk? (i.e. Go with
                    > pantone spot color for all of it?) I was wondering if that might be
                    a
                    > way to go.... Sort of try to reproduce a spot color print on an
                    > offset press... and scan each color with a slightly different line
                    > screen? I think that seems like a cool idea.
                    >
                    >
                    > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "eroustom" <ERoustom@w...>
                    > wrote:
                    > > I'm curiouse if this had to be done on the cheap, with a straight
                    > desktop scan... I've got some art school printmaking ideas (as in no
                    > > budget whatsoever) to lend on this question:
                    > > My first suggestion would be to avoid the dot. Don't produce a
                    > half tone, but after you edit your (high res. grayscale) scan,
                    > > produce line art (bitmap) - if you get it right, the only thing
                    > missing will be the impression. Second consider overprinting
                    > different
                    > > proofs (with different densities of coverage) thereby producing a
                    > duotone, and adding some depth and complexity to the
                    > > ink/color that is often missing from offset.
                    > >
                    > > Or find someone with a cylinder press to run the job for real (if
                    I
                    > were to do it, I'd make a plate from a scan anyway - I wouldn't
                    > > want to take a chance with clunky old wood type surviving 1000
                    > impressions without the lock-up exploding).
                    > >
                    > > Good luck.
                    > >
                    > > Elias Roustom
                    > >
                    > > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Mats Broberg"
                    > <mats.broberg@a...> wrote:
                    > > > > I have plans to offset print a letterpress design done with
                    > wood
                    > > > > type. We'll print it it on a vandercook, then scan the art to
                    > create
                    > > > > films. Does anyone have any cautionary advice for the process?
                    > Just
                    > > > > wondering...
                    > > > >
                    > > > > All comments welcome.
                    > > > >
                    > > > > Thanks!
                    > > > > Carey Johnson
                    > > >
                    > > > Carey,
                    > > >
                    > > > Jim makes good points about the problem involved in reproducing
                    a
                    > > > letterpress printed item in offset.
                    > > >
                    > > > If you aim for expressing some of the tactile quality of the
                    > item, the
                    > > > way to go is probably to work with a professional photographer
                    > and spend
                    > > > a few hours in tweaking studio lighting. I recall a project a
                    few
                    > years
                    > > > ago when I worked with a photographer to get a good image of a
                    > piece of
                    > > > watercolor artwork. At first we tried a traditional reprographic
                    > setup
                    > > > of the lights, merely to get a starting point, and the result
                    was
                    > not
                    > > > impressive. We had to spend alot of time working with different
                    > angles
                    > > > and different types of lightsources to capture some of the
                    > > > three-dimensional qualities of the watercolor. If the goal is a
                    > mere
                    > > > facsimile, then it's another matter and a traditional
                    > reprographic setup
                    > > > of lighting may work.
                    > > >
                    > > > Your budget may or may not make it possible to work with a
                    > photographer,
                    > > > and if it doesn't, you can scan the item on a scanner. However,
                    > to get
                    > > > as good a result as possible you may prefer to have it scanned
                    on
                    > a drum
                    > > > scanner at a commercial process engraving / prepress company. In
                    > the
                    > > > specs, many consumer-grade and semi-professional scanners
                    compare
                    > well
                    > > > with high-end equipment, but there are more to it than color
                    > depth and
                    > > > resolution. Many times a skilled operator and an old Crosfield
                    > Magnascan
                    > > > (which took up half a room) creates results that, still, can be
                    > > > absolutely outstanding.
                    > > >
                    > > > When the time comes to the offset printing of the scan, you may
                    > want to
                    > > > contact a printing office who works with waterless offset, or FM
                    > screens
                    > > > / hybrid screens. Waterless offset makes it possible to
                    reproduce
                    > your
                    > > > image using a finer screen, and FM screens (frequency modulated)
                    > and
                    > > > hybrid screens are methods to screen your image that have some
                    > > > advantages over traditional AM screens (amplitude modulated).
                    > > >
                    > > > Good luck and don't hesitate to drop me a line if you have more
                    > > > questions.
                    > > >
                    > > > Best regards,
                    > > > Mats Broberg
                    > > >
                    > > > Stockholm - S
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    > • To respond to a post or post a message to the membership:
                    > PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                    > • Encountering problems? contact:
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                    > • To unsubscribe:
                    > PPLetterpress-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
                    >
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                  • carey johnson
                    Thanks for the tip. We ll see what their budget is and whether we in fact will have any say in how it s printed. I appreciate your help. ... hired ... asked
                    Message 9 of 23 , Jul 17 4:09 PM
                    • 0 Attachment
                      Thanks for the tip. We'll see what their budget is and whether we in
                      fact will have any say in how it's printed. I appreciate your help.

                      --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, Michael T Metz <mtmetz@s...>
                      wrote:
                      > The printing can still be done letterpress without printing
                      > the full run with the wood type. Plates can be made from
                      > letterpress proofs much easier than what you will have to do
                      > to get a photograph to reproduce the effect. The end product
                      > can then be printed from the new plates.
                      >
                      > -----Original Message-----
                      > From: carey johnson [mailto:careysuejohnson@y...]
                      > Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 11:30 AM
                      > To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                      > Subject: [PPLetterpress] Re: offset printing a letterpress design
                      >
                      >
                      > because i don't have control over that part of the process. i'm
                      hired
                      > by a music manager/producer who's shopping a recording to a label.
                      > and the label, i believe, is going to make that decision. i was
                      asked
                      > to provide film. but they want letterpress art. if it were up to me,
                      > sure, i'd rather see it done letterpress. still, i think the point
                      > about doing a run of a thousand or more with wood type not being
                      such
                      > a great idea is well taken anyhow...
                      >
                      >
                      > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, Michael T Metz <mtmetz@s...>
                      > wrote:
                      > > Did you say why you didn't want to print it letterpress?
                      > >
                      > > -----Original Message-----
                      > > From: carey johnson [mailto:careysuejohnson@y...]
                      > > Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 11:04 AM
                      > > To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                      > > Subject: [PPLetterpress] Re: offset printing a letterpress design
                      > >
                      > >
                      > > I don't think it really needs to be done all that cheaply. But
                      > > frankly, I don't know the budget. It won't be large, mind you, but
                      > it
                      > > probably won't be nothing either. The thing is, the run will be
                      > > larger than can be happily produced on a Vandercook. And your
                      point
                      > > about a run that big & chancing the type is well taken. I still
                      > don't
                      > > know the numbers of the run, either. At least a thousand. Likely
                      > more.
                      > >
                      > > But are you suggesting that I print (proof) (on the vandercook)
                      and
                      > > scan each color separately instead of going cmyk? (i.e. Go with
                      > > pantone spot color for all of it?) I was wondering if that might
                      be
                      > a
                      > > way to go.... Sort of try to reproduce a spot color print on an
                      > > offset press... and scan each color with a slightly different line
                      > > screen? I think that seems like a cool idea.
                      > >
                      > >
                      > > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "eroustom" <ERoustom@w...>
                      > > wrote:
                      > > > I'm curiouse if this had to be done on the cheap, with a
                      straight
                      > > desktop scan... I've got some art school printmaking ideas (as in
                      no
                      > > > budget whatsoever) to lend on this question:
                      > > > My first suggestion would be to avoid the dot. Don't produce
                      a
                      > > half tone, but after you edit your (high res. grayscale) scan,
                      > > > produce line art (bitmap) - if you get it right, the only thing
                      > > missing will be the impression. Second consider overprinting
                      > > different
                      > > > proofs (with different densities of coverage) thereby producing
                      a
                      > > duotone, and adding some depth and complexity to the
                      > > > ink/color that is often missing from offset.
                      > > >
                      > > > Or find someone with a cylinder press to run the job for real
                      (if
                      > I
                      > > were to do it, I'd make a plate from a scan anyway - I wouldn't
                      > > > want to take a chance with clunky old wood type surviving 1000
                      > > impressions without the lock-up exploding).
                      > > >
                      > > > Good luck.
                      > > >
                      > > > Elias Roustom
                      > > >
                      > > > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Mats Broberg"
                      > > <mats.broberg@a...> wrote:
                      > > > > > I have plans to offset print a letterpress design done with
                      > > wood
                      > > > > > type. We'll print it it on a vandercook, then scan the art
                      to
                      > > create
                      > > > > > films. Does anyone have any cautionary advice for the
                      process?
                      > > Just
                      > > > > > wondering...
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > > All comments welcome.
                      > > > > >
                      > > > > > Thanks!
                      > > > > > Carey Johnson
                      > > > >
                      > > > > Carey,
                      > > > >
                      > > > > Jim makes good points about the problem involved in
                      reproducing
                      > a
                      > > > > letterpress printed item in offset.
                      > > > >
                      > > > > If you aim for expressing some of the tactile quality of the
                      > > item, the
                      > > > > way to go is probably to work with a professional photographer
                      > > and spend
                      > > > > a few hours in tweaking studio lighting. I recall a project a
                      > few
                      > > years
                      > > > > ago when I worked with a photographer to get a good image of a
                      > > piece of
                      > > > > watercolor artwork. At first we tried a traditional
                      reprographic
                      > > setup
                      > > > > of the lights, merely to get a starting point, and the result
                      > was
                      > > not
                      > > > > impressive. We had to spend alot of time working with
                      different
                      > > angles
                      > > > > and different types of lightsources to capture some of the
                      > > > > three-dimensional qualities of the watercolor. If the goal is
                      a
                      > > mere
                      > > > > facsimile, then it's another matter and a traditional
                      > > reprographic setup
                      > > > > of lighting may work.
                      > > > >
                      > > > > Your budget may or may not make it possible to work with a
                      > > photographer,
                      > > > > and if it doesn't, you can scan the item on a scanner.
                      However,
                      > > to get
                      > > > > as good a result as possible you may prefer to have it scanned
                      > on
                      > > a drum
                      > > > > scanner at a commercial process engraving / prepress company.
                      In
                      > > the
                      > > > > specs, many consumer-grade and semi-professional scanners
                      > compare
                      > > well
                      > > > > with high-end equipment, but there are more to it than color
                      > > depth and
                      > > > > resolution. Many times a skilled operator and an old Crosfield
                      > > Magnascan
                      > > > > (which took up half a room) creates results that, still, can
                      be
                      > > > > absolutely outstanding.
                      > > > >
                      > > > > When the time comes to the offset printing of the scan, you
                      may
                      > > want to
                      > > > > contact a printing office who works with waterless offset, or
                      FM
                      > > screens
                      > > > > / hybrid screens. Waterless offset makes it possible to
                      > reproduce
                      > > your
                      > > > > image using a finer screen, and FM screens (frequency
                      modulated)
                      > > and
                      > > > > hybrid screens are methods to screen your image that have some
                      > > > > advantages over traditional AM screens (amplitude modulated).
                      > > > >
                      > > > > Good luck and don't hesitate to drop me a line if you have
                      more
                      > > > > questions.
                      > > > >
                      > > > > Best regards,
                      > > > > Mats Broberg
                      > > > >
                      > > > > Stockholm - S
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > > • To respond to a post or post a message to the membership:
                      > > PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                      > > • Encountering problems? contact:
                      > > PPLetterpress-owner@yahoogroups.com
                      > > • To unsubscribe:
                      > > PPLetterpress-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
                      > >
                      > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
                      > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      > • To respond to a post or post a message to the membership:
                      > PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                      > • Encountering problems? contact:
                      > PPLetterpress-owner@yahoogroups.com
                      > • To unsubscribe:
                      > PPLetterpress-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
                      >
                      > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
                      http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                    • Gerald Lange
                      Folks You don t actually have to thank each and every poster who replies to a post. That s thoughtful and considerate... but it does go a bit against
                      Message 10 of 23 , Jul 17 4:35 PM
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                        Folks

                        You don't actually have to thank each and every poster who replies to
                        a post. That's thoughtful and considerate... but it does go a bit
                        against netiquette as the post goes to each and every member and
                        begins to fill up their mailbox. Could get a bit irritating to some
                        folks after a time. You can just post a thank you back to the
                        responder privately. Good way to make lasting friends. Also, if you do
                        respond to a post it is best and least intrusive to clip all the extra
                        material from previous posts to the thread, etc., before you hit the
                        return. Keep the pertinent material but delete the rest. Thanks.

                        Gerald Lange
                        Moderator
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