Re: [PPLetterpress] Letter ink traps in photopolymer
- oh, and what this was all leading up to . . . since i have yet to use
polymer i was wondering if any of you feel that the polymer adds
*back* some of this ink squeeze density to the color of the type,
which is absent if you set the type electronically and print it
offset? or maybe because of the draining issues previously mentioned,
and the squishy nature of polymer, it's really not the same at all.
> In answer to Matt's thought about using mat foil: IJan,
> use Kreene foil (is that mat?) and no glass right now.
Apologies for my belated reply to this question: Yes, I think it's
called Kreene foil and is a vital part of the system, not only when
exposing the plates using a traditional setup with UV tubes but even
more so when using a UV point light source, like Theimers, NuArcs, Olecs
and the like. Harold Kyle @ Boxcar Press (on the list) sells it,
together with alot of other fine printing pressroom supplies, should you
run out of it.
Regarding halftones I agree with Katie's recent post. Extremely high
quality fine halftone work can be carried out using a letterpress
printing press but since the eclipse of specialty makeready systems,
like Permaton and chalk overlays, you probably wouldn't want to do it
anyway. If you aim for halftones a better investment would be an
entry-level offset press, like some of AB Dick's earlier models, which
can be bought for very modest prices.
Regarding the Windmill, you shouldn't be afraid, but merely keep a
healthy respect for it, and any other motorized presses. Even with all
the guards working fine, a platen press can hurt you very badly, and is
perhaps more dangerous than a cylinder press. Should you aim for a
Windmill - which indeed is a remarkable press of which I own two - never
work by it when you are out of shouting distance to someone until you
are very, very experienced.
All the best,