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Re: [PPLetterpress] vandercook / heavy stock

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  • Peter Fraterdeus
    By the way, (sorry if it s already been addressed!) Rives BFK 230 is 230gsm, Grams/Sq Meter, not 230# LB. It s probably about 15 point caliper (.015 ) thick
    Message 1 of 17 , Mar 5, 2012
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      By the way, (sorry if it's already been addressed!) 

      Rives BFK 230 is 230gsm,  Grams/Sq Meter, not 230# LB.
      It's probably about 15 point caliper (.015") thick

      Crane Lettra double-thick is 220# and 600gsm and 40 point caliper (thickness approx .040")

      Reich Savoy double-thick is 236#, about 630gsm

      Rising 2-ply museum board is .060" - 60 point.
      That's as heavy as I can run on the Windmill ;-)
      Don't recommend trying this on a cylinder press.



      On 3 Mar 2012, at 9:36 AM, victoria kniering wrote:

      Yes, use it all the time, rives bfk 230.  I make books, I actually use it to print woodcuts, monotypes and letterpress. 
      you can adjust the gripper height,  and you can change the packing, or... you can use a few sheets of newsprint loose behind the paper as removable packing to get your paper to print.... or.... you can put a piece (or two or three) of sheet aluminum litho plate under a wood block that's not quite type high, if you don't want to mess with the packing...  do you know if your vandy is a galley press or not.  if so you need to have the bed at type high first and if the press doesn't have the steel plate that takes up the height of the galley you can order one... the vandy is a proof press, some of the book houses used to proof each galley of type before they put it all together i.e. the galley press bed height is set for the addition of type AND galley...so when printing type alone you need the steel plate to bring the whole pkg. to type high. na graphics sells the steel plate for that.  if you don't know if it's a galley press or not you can tell you from the serial number, at least n. a. graphics can look it up for you.
      what you don't want to do is add to much packing or plates to make it way to hard to roll the roller, if it feels like it's binding stop and remove packing don't jeopardize the settings ...it's not a platen press and PRESSURE is very very light.
      if you really want  something more the a "kiss" impression, use the platen press..
      victoria jutras kniering
      On Feb 28, 2012, at 9:57 AM, griinga wrote:

      I'm wondering if any printers out there have successfully used 230# paper on their Vandercook and how, seeing as you can't use the grippers and cylinder. I've been strictly a platen press printer and now need to get going on my Vandy 15.
      Thanks for any input. 

    • Kim Vanderheiden
      Victoria, I feel like I would need to look at your setup to understand the trouble you ve been having. I thought maybe I d catch on from the posts, but I m
      Message 2 of 17 , Mar 6, 2012
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        I feel like I would need to look at your setup to understand the trouble you've been having. I thought maybe I'd catch on from the posts, but I'm still unsure why you have trouble feeding.

        We've routinely used 300 lb Waterford, 250 lb Bockingford, and Lettra Duplex which is essentially 220#, all on the Vandercook. I don't know of anything special you would need to do to feed it, unless, as someone brought up, your paper is small and it tries to stick straight up. Even then, it should still work ok, except you'll need to trim of the end of the paper to clean up the bit of ink it picks up when the end of the paper slaps the plate as it rolls past due to its stiffness.

        One thing I can offer based on my experience with my own press is that there was a time when I was dealing with a bearing that was worn down on the opposite side from the press operator. Because of this, the grippers were not rising to their full height. I had to build up the track a little - maybe it was with some thin steel rule left over from plate material? Something. I rigged it. Also, there was a spring behind the ramp that had broken. I tucked a piece of furniture behind the ramp (it seemed just the right size) to offer better resistance. Then the grippers worked fine. My sense was that they were designed to rise higher in the first place, but due to wear, and the spring breaking, were not rising very much anymore at all. Mine is a very early model 4 - about 75 years old now I believe.

        I don't know if that helps. If you think that may be your problem, here's what I would suggest based on our press's layout: Have someone slowly wheel the carriage out and back for you as you carefully watch how the mechanics work on the opposite side. Carefully manipulate the parts and movements as needed to understand their functions. When you understand the mechanics of the gripper system (it's a lever with a bearing on the bottom that travels up an inclined plane) you may be able to see what the problem is and why the grippers aren't raising sufficiently. On mine, I'm able to manipulate the lever with my hands and raise the grippers manually which is how I figured out how to get around the problem.

        (It would sure be nice to restore it some time so that the bearings, ramp and spring are the correct specifications again! I hope I didn't just make everyone groan in frustration at the knowledge of my little rigging effort. )

        Good luck!
        Kim Vanderheiden
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