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Re: Flattening homemade steel backed plates

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  • bielerpr
    Milo I am only familiar with the table top and the floor models. I don t note a difference in the hold-down methods in regard to the curling issue as long as
    Message 1 of 22 , Mar 23, 2011
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      Milo

      I am only familiar with the table top and the floor models. I don't note a difference in the hold-down methods in regard to the curling issue as long as you adjust the lower blade appropriately.

      Gerald
      http://BielerPress.blogspot.com

      --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "s_milo_88" <emilbong@...> wrote:
      >
      > Hi Gerald,
      >
      > Do you find a difference between different Kutrimmer models for this purpose? Specifically, do the different hold-down methods (manual, automatic, or handle) seem to affect the curling issue?
      >
      > Thanks,
      > Milo
    • bielerpr
      Clare The spacing serves as leveling. Thicker pieces toward the front, thinner to the back. Yes, it props the lower blade up. Once the blade is adjusted the
      Message 2 of 22 , Mar 23, 2011
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        Clare

        The spacing serves as leveling. Thicker pieces toward the front, thinner to the back. Yes, it props the lower blade up. Once the blade is adjusted the spacing is left in place to ensure that the blade does not slip out of adjustment.

        Gerald
        http://BielerPress.blogspot.com


        --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, Clare Carpenter <clare@...> wrote:
        >
        > Hi,
        >
        > I'm pretty new to the group and am learning a lot already. Thanks for
        > the resource!
        >
        > We use a Kutrimmer at Oregon College of Art and Craft, and have the
        > same problem with the cutter bending the plate. Can you clarify what
        > you mean by "use metal type spacing below the blade"? Is that to hold
        > the blade in place while you adjust?
        >
        > Thanks!
        > Clare
        >
        > --------
        >
        > Raven
        >
        > The lower blade is adjustable. Adjust it to even level with the bed. I
        > use metal type spacing below the blade and then tighten the screws.
        > You will get a slight edging to the piece being cut off but this is
        > easily trimmed smooth.
        >
        > Gerald
        > http://BielerPress.blogspot.com
        >
        >
      • erib8
        ... Clare and PPLers, In addition getting the lower blade at the right height as Gerald suggests, I use something (wood, metal, books whatever) outside the
        Message 3 of 22 , Mar 23, 2011
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          --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "bielerpr" <Bieler@...> wrote:
          >
          > Clare
          >
          > The spacing serves as leveling. Thicker pieces toward the front, thinner to the back. Yes, it props the lower blade up. Once the blade is adjusted the spacing is left in place to ensure that the blade does not slip out of adjustment.
          >
          > Gerald


          Clare and PPLers,
          In addition getting the lower blade at the right height as Gerald suggests, I use something (wood, metal, books whatever) outside the Kuttrimmer blade to hold up the cutoff portion at bed height. I get little or no bending of the plate as a result.

          Bryce Erickson
          Saskatoon SK Canada
        • Clare Carpenter
          Thanks for your replies. - Clare ... thinner to the back. Yes, it props the lower blade up. Once the blade is adjusted the spacing is left in place to ensure
          Message 4 of 22 , Mar 23, 2011
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            Thanks for your replies. - Clare

            --- In
             PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "bielerpr" <Bieler@...> wrote:
            >
            > Clare
            > 
            > The spacing serves as leveling. Thicker pieces toward the front, thinner to the back. Yes, it props the lower blade up. Once the blade is adjusted the spacing is left in place to ensure that the blade does not slip out of adjustment.
            > 
            > Gerald

            Clare and PPLers,
            In addition getting the lower blade at the right height as Gerald suggests, I use something (wood, metal, books whatever) outside the Kuttrimmer blade to hold up the cutoff portion at bed height. I get little or no bending of the plate as a result.

            Bryce Erickson
            Saskatoon SK Canada
            keep up with Tiger Food Press




          • heytrollop
            Thanks for all the tips. I know we ve tried to adjust it but I ll give it another go with your advice. It would be great not to end up with a bent plate! raven
            Message 5 of 22 , Mar 24, 2011
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              Thanks for all the tips. I know we've tried to adjust it but I'll give it another go with your advice.

              It would be great not to end up with a bent plate!

              raven



              --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "s_milo_88" <emilbong@...> wrote:
              >
              > Hi,
              >
              > I'm getting started making my own plates at home with a homemade exposure table (with vacuum table + kreene). The photopolymer itself is exposing well, but the steel backing is warped, particularly at the edges. When printing on my Kelsey, the impression seems to be fine, but the warping gets in the way of proper inking. Part of the problem happens during cutting as one side of the unexposed plate will curl and the other will at least warp somewhat.
              >
              > Does anyone have any suggestions either to avoid this or unwarp the plates after cutting or exposure?
              >
              > Thanks!
              > Milo
              >
            • alandye@pacbell.net
              Milo, Tinsmiths or other metal workers (like rain gutter installers) have a tool that looks like a very small brayer but the roller is steel instead of rubber.
              Message 6 of 22 , Mar 25, 2011
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                Milo,

                Tinsmiths or other metal workers (like rain gutter installers) have a tool that looks like a very small brayer but the roller is steel instead of rubber. The roller is only about 1 inch wide with a wood handle. They use this to flatten sheet metal after it has been cut and has a curled edge. They lay the sheet metal on a hard stone surface and then bray the edge down from the back side of the curl to flatten it.

                Assuming you can buy one of these tools from a local metalworking shop or hardware store, and assuming you have enough lip on your plate after cutting to flip it over, put the curl on a stone and hang the raised image off the edge, you could bray down the curl using one of these. Don't use your aluminum base to bray down, get a scrap piece of granite countertop to use, or the edge of your composing stone if you have one.

                Best,

                Alan

                --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "s_milo_88" <emilbong@...> wrote:
                >
                > Hi,
                >
                > I'm getting started making my own plates at home with a homemade exposure table (with vacuum table + kreene). The photopolymer itself is exposing well, but the steel backing is warped, particularly at the edges. When printing on my Kelsey, the impression seems to be fine, but the warping gets in the way of proper inking. Part of the problem happens during cutting as one side of the unexposed plate will curl and the other will at least warp somewhat.
                >
                > Does anyone have any suggestions either to avoid this or unwarp the plates after cutting or exposure?
                >
                > Thanks!
                > Milo
                >
              • Eric
                ... You can use a printmaker s burnisher in the same way, and they can be found at art supply stores, or from General Graphics, or manufacturers such as Lyons
                Message 7 of 22 , Mar 25, 2011
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                  --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "alandye@..." <alandye@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > Tinsmiths or other metal workers (like rain gutter installers) have a tool that looks like a very small brayer but the roller is steel instead of rubber. The roller is only about 1 inch wide with a wood handle. They use this to flatten sheet metal after it has been cut and has a curled edge. They lay the sheet metal on a hard stone surface and then bray the edge down from the back side of the curl to flatten it.
                  >

                  You can use a printmaker's burnisher in the same way, and they can be found at art supply stores, or from General Graphics, or manufacturers such as Lyons or Muller.
                  --Eric Holub, SF
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