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Re: letterpress BEFORE or AFTER...

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  • William
    That s interesting--I came to the opposite conclusion. In my mind, the inkjet image is more fragile, so I would do it last. Holding a sheet down on the
    Message 1 of 5 , Jul 1, 2010
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      That's interesting--I came to the opposite conclusion. In my mind, the inkjet image is more fragile, so I would do it last. Holding a sheet down on the cylinder of a Vandercook isn't a great amount of pressure, but I wouldn't want to be touching the inkjet image as I run the sheet through the press. In the last 7-8 years of printing with custom inkjet inks and rag paper, I try to avoid ever touching the image at all.

      Jon

      --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Yvon" <yal@...> wrote:

      > Thanks for your replies Barbara and Raven. I pretty well figured the inkjet first would be the best route. And thanks for the extra insight on 'after the fact' laser printing Tom.
      >
      > Which almost brings up another topic of its own:
      > – how well do our inks hold up on letterpressed letterhead that will inevitably be put through a laser printer
      >
      > And I believe you have addressed that very well, ie: an oil-based ink that has had plenty of time to cure is a must have for anything to be lasered.
      >
      > Thank you all!
      > Yvon
      >
      > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, typetom@ wrote:
      > >
      > > I think inkjet and letterpress inks might work in either order, but anyone
      > > using a laser printer should know that the intense laser printer heat will
      > > melt and ghost rubber-based inks, and even oil-based inks if they are not
      > > well dried. Van Son makes a Mega Laser soy ink, with driers, for use on
      > > letterhead that will subsequently be printed on a laser printer. So if your
      > > project involved a laser printer instead, that definitely should be done
      > > before the letterpress work unless you use an ink that will not melt!
      > > Your concerns are good. Best wishes,
      > > Tom
      > >
      > > In a message dated 6/29/2010 10:03:48 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,
      > > heytrollop@ writes:
      > >
      > > Oh forgot to mention... I was using silver oil-based ink.
      > >
      > > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "heytrollop" <heytrollop@> wrote:
      > > >
      > > > I've done postcards on matte photo paper and also on regular digital
      > > photopaper. I did the inkjet printing first. With the matte...it's much like
      > > any other paper. When I printed on Ilford premium pearl, it took a little
      > > longer to dry. But it worked fine for both.
      > > >
      > > > I think it's possible you might get a bit of image over the letterpress
      > > work. But That's why I did the inkjet first.
      > > >
      > > > best,
      > > > Raven
      > > >
      >
      > I actually just finished a job that combined inkjet and letterpress printing. I
      > printed the inkjet first since I thought it would be easier to adjust the
      > registration on the Vandercook than on the Epson.
      >
      > Barbara
      >
      >
      > > > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Yvon" <yal@> wrote:
      > >
      > > > > @bigwheel and @Jon
      > >
      > > > > I also have to inkjet graphics on postcards and do imprints with lead
      > > type. Not planning on using such fancy stock as the Museo Rag but I'm also
      > > curious to know if you'd do the imprints before or after the inkjet
      > > printing. I always thought running the pre-printed inkjet paper through a proof
      > > press would be easier than the other way around, as any oils from handling
      > > while doing the letterpress might dangerously affect the quality of inkjet
      > > printing, not to mention dirt or grime going through an inkjet printer after
      > > the fact?
      > > > > I'd love to get some insight from anyone who has successfully (or
      > > not...) produced such a 2 part print project, on any paper and any press.
      > > > > Thank you, Yvon
      >
    • heytrollop
      I think if you are using matte paper and wearing clean gloves it s less likely to leave prints or smudges. But definitely it varies by paper. And you should
      Message 2 of 5 , Jul 1, 2010
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        I think if you are using matte paper and wearing clean gloves it's less likely to leave prints or smudges. But definitely it varies by paper. And you should make sure they are very dry.

        I also like ilford pearl which seems a bit more resistant to fingerprints. There's some really nice fine art papers for printing.

        I have some moab sommerset photo paper I like. And the epson velvet fine art paper is okay as well.


        Also if you leave a border around the edge of your print you can safely handle it there. (though I don't know I'd recommend it with glossy). You might also try a fixative, though I'm not sure how that would work with the letterpress ink. Probably less well.

        best,
        Raven

        --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "William" <jon@...> wrote:
        >
        > That's interesting--I came to the opposite conclusion. In my mind, the inkjet image is more fragile, so I would do it last. Holding a sheet down on the cylinder of a Vandercook isn't a great amount of pressure, but I wouldn't want to be touching the inkjet image as I run the sheet through the press. In the last 7-8 years of printing with custom inkjet inks and rag paper, I try to avoid ever touching the image at all.
        >
        > Jon
        >
        > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Yvon" <yal@> wrote:
        >
        > > Thanks for your replies Barbara and Raven. I pretty well figured the inkjet first would be the best route. And thanks for the extra insight on 'after the fact' laser printing Tom.
        > >
        > > Which almost brings up another topic of its own:
        > > – how well do our inks hold up on letterpressed letterhead that will inevitably be put through a laser printer
        > >
        > > And I believe you have addressed that very well, ie: an oil-based ink that has had plenty of time to cure is a must have for anything to be lasered.
        > >
        > > Thank you all!
        > > Yvon
        > >
        > > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, typetom@ wrote:
        > > >
        > > > I think inkjet and letterpress inks might work in either order, but anyone
        > > > using a laser printer should know that the intense laser printer heat will
        > > > melt and ghost rubber-based inks, and even oil-based inks if they are not
        > > > well dried. Van Son makes a Mega Laser soy ink, with driers, for use on
        > > > letterhead that will subsequently be printed on a laser printer. So if your
        > > > project involved a laser printer instead, that definitely should be done
        > > > before the letterpress work unless you use an ink that will not melt!
        > > > Your concerns are good. Best wishes,
        > > > Tom
        > > >
        > > > In a message dated 6/29/2010 10:03:48 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,
        > > > heytrollop@ writes:
        > > >
        > > > Oh forgot to mention... I was using silver oil-based ink.
        > > >
        > > > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "heytrollop" <heytrollop@> wrote:
        > > > >
        > > > > I've done postcards on matte photo paper and also on regular digital
        > > > photopaper. I did the inkjet printing first. With the matte...it's much like
        > > > any other paper. When I printed on Ilford premium pearl, it took a little
        > > > longer to dry. But it worked fine for both.
        > > > >
        > > > > I think it's possible you might get a bit of image over the letterpress
        > > > work. But That's why I did the inkjet first.
        > > > >
        > > > > best,
        > > > > Raven
        > > > >
        > >
        > > I actually just finished a job that combined inkjet and letterpress printing. I
        > > printed the inkjet first since I thought it would be easier to adjust the
        > > registration on the Vandercook than on the Epson.
        > >
        > > Barbara
        > >
        > >
        > > > > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Yvon" <yal@> wrote:
        > > >
        > > > > > @bigwheel and @Jon
        > > >
        > > > > > I also have to inkjet graphics on postcards and do imprints with lead
        > > > type. Not planning on using such fancy stock as the Museo Rag but I'm also
        > > > curious to know if you'd do the imprints before or after the inkjet
        > > > printing. I always thought running the pre-printed inkjet paper through a proof
        > > > press would be easier than the other way around, as any oils from handling
        > > > while doing the letterpress might dangerously affect the quality of inkjet
        > > > printing, not to mention dirt or grime going through an inkjet printer after
        > > > the fact?
        > > > > > I'd love to get some insight from anyone who has successfully (or
        > > > not...) produced such a 2 part print project, on any paper and any press.
        > > > > > Thank you, Yvon
        > >
        >
      • William
        Hiya Raven, I figure that I m more likely to damage an inkjet image putting it into a press than a letterpressed piece through my Epson. Gloves are mandatory
        Message 3 of 5 , Jul 2, 2010
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          Hiya Raven,

          I figure that I'm more likely to damage an inkjet image putting it into a press than a letterpressed piece through my Epson. Gloves are mandatory no matter what.

          I like Ilford Smooth Pearl a great deal also. One of my portfolios in printed on that. Each print was hand waxed, which eliminates fingerprints entirely. I had a photo editor of twenty years pick up that portfolio and say "nice darkroom prints". I did run a sheet or two through a Vandercook, but the ink was mottled. Maybe another type of ink would be better.

          I'll take a look at the Sommerset. Mostly using Kayenta for proofing and Entrada for final prints. I'd like try out Hahnemuhle Bamboo for a couple projects. Some of the newer Baryta papers might be nice too.

          I have a box of 13x19 Epson Velvet Fine Art paper, but I'm not impressed with how the blacks are reproduced--a common problem with matte papers for inkjet.

          I coat all my prints with Premier Art Print Shield, and I'm guessing that would make the press ink not adhere as well--or what it would make the press ink look like if the spray was applied after printing. Time for some experiments...

          This is a great discussion! I think I'm going to make a list of letterpress/inkjet compatible papers.

          Jon
          http://www.jonwitsell.com/


          --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "heytrollop" <heytrollop@...> wrote:
          >
          > I think if you are using matte paper and wearing clean gloves it's less likely to leave prints or smudges. But definitely it varies by paper. And you should make sure they are very dry.
          >
          > I also like ilford pearl which seems a bit more resistant to fingerprints. There's some really nice fine art papers for printing.
          >
          > I have some moab sommerset photo paper I like. And the epson velvet fine art paper is okay as well.
          >
          >
          > Also if you leave a border around the edge of your print you can safely handle it there. (though I don't know I'd recommend it with glossy). You might also try a fixative, though I'm not sure how that would work with the letterpress ink. Probably less well.
          >
          > best,
          > Raven
          >
          > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "William" <jon@> wrote:
          > >
          > > That's interesting--I came to the opposite conclusion. In my mind, the inkjet image is more fragile, so I would do it last. Holding a sheet down on the cylinder of a Vandercook isn't a great amount of pressure, but I wouldn't want to be touching the inkjet image as I run the sheet through the press. In the last 7-8 years of printing with custom inkjet inks and rag paper, I try to avoid ever touching the image at all.
          > >
          > > Jon
          > >
          > > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Yvon" <yal@> wrote:
          > >
          > > > Thanks for your replies Barbara and Raven. I pretty well figured the inkjet first would be the best route. And thanks for the extra insight on 'after the fact' laser printing Tom.
          > > >
          > > > Which almost brings up another topic of its own:
          > > > – how well do our inks hold up on letterpressed letterhead that will inevitably be put through a laser printer
          > > >
          > > > And I believe you have addressed that very well, ie: an oil-based ink that has had plenty of time to cure is a must have for anything to be lasered.
          > > >
          > > > Thank you all!
          > > > Yvon
          > > >
          > > > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, typetom@ wrote:
          > > > >
          > > > > I think inkjet and letterpress inks might work in either order, but anyone
          > > > > using a laser printer should know that the intense laser printer heat will
          > > > > melt and ghost rubber-based inks, and even oil-based inks if they are not
          > > > > well dried. Van Son makes a Mega Laser soy ink, with driers, for use on
          > > > > letterhead that will subsequently be printed on a laser printer. So if your
          > > > > project involved a laser printer instead, that definitely should be done
          > > > > before the letterpress work unless you use an ink that will not melt!
          > > > > Your concerns are good. Best wishes,
          > > > > Tom
          > > > >
          > > > > In a message dated 6/29/2010 10:03:48 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time,
          > > > > heytrollop@ writes:
          > > > >
          > > > > Oh forgot to mention... I was using silver oil-based ink.
          > > > >
          > > > > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "heytrollop" <heytrollop@> wrote:
          > > > > >
          > > > > > I've done postcards on matte photo paper and also on regular digital
          > > > > photopaper. I did the inkjet printing first. With the matte...it's much like
          > > > > any other paper. When I printed on Ilford premium pearl, it took a little
          > > > > longer to dry. But it worked fine for both.
          > > > > >
          > > > > > I think it's possible you might get a bit of image over the letterpress
          > > > > work. But That's why I did the inkjet first.
          > > > > >
          > > > > > best,
          > > > > > Raven
          > > > > >
          > > >
          > > > I actually just finished a job that combined inkjet and letterpress printing. I
          > > > printed the inkjet first since I thought it would be easier to adjust the
          > > > registration on the Vandercook than on the Epson.
          > > >
          > > > Barbara
          > > >
          > > >
          > > > > > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Yvon" <yal@> wrote:
          > > > >
          > > > > > > @bigwheel and @Jon
          > > > >
          > > > > > > I also have to inkjet graphics on postcards and do imprints with lead
          > > > > type. Not planning on using such fancy stock as the Museo Rag but I'm also
          > > > > curious to know if you'd do the imprints before or after the inkjet
          > > > > printing. I always thought running the pre-printed inkjet paper through a proof
          > > > > press would be easier than the other way around, as any oils from handling
          > > > > while doing the letterpress might dangerously affect the quality of inkjet
          > > > > printing, not to mention dirt or grime going through an inkjet printer after
          > > > > the fact?
          > > > > > > I'd love to get some insight from anyone who has successfully (or
          > > > > not...) produced such a 2 part print project, on any paper and any press.
          > > > > > > Thank you, Yvon
          > > >
          > >
          >
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