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Re: & CALLIGRAPHY Re: [PPLetterpress] Re: photopolymer plate newbie

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  • engrossersscript@aol.com
    Thank you all soooooooooooo very much for taking the time to answer my question! I really really appreciate it. I can not wait to show you guys how it comes
    Message 1 of 23 , Sep 17, 2009
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      Thank you all soooooooooooo very much for taking the time to answer my question! I really really appreciate it. I can not wait to show you guys how it comes out when I do it.


      -----Original Message-----
      From: Scott Rubel <scott@...>
      To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Thu, Sep 17, 2009 7:01 pm
      Subject: Re: & CALLIGRAPHY Re: [PPLetterpress] Re: photopolymer plate newbie






      1200 dpi if the lines are thin. Then you may have to play with
      contrast and then turn into a bitmap to be sure the black is really
      black. It may look black on your monitor, but the negative will
      develop as a screen if it's not 100%.

      --Scott

      On Sep 17, 2009, at 4:31 PM, foofnik79 wrote:

      > i scan my calligraphy in at 600 dpi. make sure the dots on all of
      > the i's, j's, etc. are large enough that they don't get lost. make
      > sure the artwork is 100% black and change it to a bitmap for
      > ordering. check your hairlines and dots again in bitmap format.
      > that's it!
      >
      > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, engrossersscript@... wrote:
      >>
      >>
      >> I am?a calligrapher - so what if I want to write my own script and
      >> scan it... can anyone give me some advise as to what resolution to
      >> scan it or if its even possible! =( I dnt have a machine YET but I
      >> am getting ready!
      >>
      >> Leenah
      >>
      >> Houston, Tx

      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • Claire Gendron
      This is my first post to this group. I ve used illustrator and photoshop quite a bit and just bought a pilot and am really excited about creating my own
      Message 2 of 23 , Sep 17, 2009
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        This is my first post to this group.



        I've used illustrator and photoshop quite a bit and just bought a pilot and
        am really excited about creating my own designs.



        I know how to use the adobe programs but I don't know what resolution
        settings/types of images are best to use to create plates. Are line images
        best? Can varying gray scales be reproduced? Also, would a deep relief base
        be better than a regular base? Why do they recommend a smaller base than
        the printer's chase size?



        Any information would be appreciated as I don't have any other source of
        information, have never used a press, and have yet to have successfully
        goaded my significant other into setting up my pilot : (



        Thanks!



        _____

        From: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com]
        On Behalf Of Visualpropaganda
        Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 5:31 PM
        To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
        Subject: Re: [PPLetterpress] photopolymer plate newbie





        Hello Amanda,

        Illustrator, InDesign and Photoshop are the big names in the Graphic
        Design Market. They have a lot of features. And they are quite
        expensive.
        But they are by no means necessary to make your design. You can do it
        in Word if you have to (I wouldn't), you could even draw your designs
        and have them scanned. But as Scott mentioned there are also a few
        free vector and bitmap editing apps, that can give you most of the
        main-features of Illustrator or InDesign:

        The Gimp (Bitmap/Picture-Editing): http://www.gimp. <http://www.gimp.org/>
        org/

        Inkscape (Vector): http://www.inkscape <http://www.inkscape.org/> .org/

        If you need fonts for your designs, there are a lot of free fonts that
        are really high quality and beautyfull. A good start to look for fonts
        is:
        http://www.dafont. <http://www.dafont.com/> com/

        If you want script fonts, check:
        http://www.dafont. <http://www.dafont.com/theme.php?cat=601>
        com/theme.php?cat=601

        Also a lot of font-designer give away some of their fonts for free.
        For example
        Jos Buivenga (exljibris): http://www.josbuive
        <http://www.josbuivenga.demon.nl/index.html> nga.demon.nl/index.html

        I used Calluna regular, which he gives away for free for a card design
        for my sister.

        Hope that get's you started. All the best
        Mirko

        Am 17.09.2009 um 22:50 schrieb Scott Rubel:

        > I create almost everything with InDesign and sometimes Illustrator,
        > when
        > making plates. These programs allow me to manipulate type and render
        > it
        > about as close to the way it should be as you can get. You need at
        > least
        > Illustrator and a decent collection of fonts.
        >
        > Adobe's current licensing restrictions are pretty harsh, though. They
        > won't both you if you only use one or two computers, but these
        > programs
        > are still expensive if you are just starting out and didn't plan on
        > acquiring them. Even though I own all this stuff, I haven't been
        > upgrading for the last couple of years, and if I had to start over I
        > would consider some alternatives.
        >
        > For instance, I am pretty certain that Adobe Elements or Photoshop
        > Lite
        > may let me do all the tricks I currently do with Photoshop, and I
        > would
        > not miss whatever it is that is missing in the lite version.
        >
        > Also, I have been told about a shareware photo manipulator called The
        > Gimp. Once again, I am passing along news I have not first hand
        > knowledge of, but if I were starting out today, I'd play around with
        > that before laying out the dough for Photoshop. <http://gimp.
        <http://gimp.org> org>
        >
        > Similarly, I would try a shareware alternative to Illustrator, like
        > Lineform or Inkscape.
        > http://applezoom.
        <http://applezoom.com/2007/07/12/cheap-alternative-to-adobe-illustrator-for-
        mac-os-x> com/2007/07/12/cheap-alternative-to-adobe-illustrator-for-mac-os-x
        > I do not know how they handle type, though, so I look forward to
        > hearing
        > about all these from personal experience.
        >
        > --Scott
        >
        > amanda.dimitrov wrote:
        >> Hi all,
        >> I am new to the photopolymer plate making technology. I just
        >> purchased a new base from Boxcar Press for my Kelsey 5x8 press. My
        >> experience with letterpress thus far has strictly been in hand set
        >> type and printing blocks that I have found on Ebay. I am so
        >> excited to be able to create my own designs; however, I am having
        >> trouble understanding which program(s) to use to make my designs
        >> and how to get my designs to the platemakers. Do most of you create
        >> designs using Illustrator or Photoshop? Then after the design is
        >> created, do you PDF the document (I read on Boxcar Press that they
        >> prefer PDF docs)? What if I wanted to create a simple design using
        >> Word and then PDF that doc? Would that work as well?
        >>
        >> Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I have read many of these
        >> posts, in addition to researching on Boxcar Press.
        >>
        >> Thanks so much in advance!!
        >> ~A
        >>
        >>
        >>
        >> ------------------------------------
        >>
        >> Yahoo! Groups Links
        >>
        >>
        >>
        >>
        >
        >
        > ------------------------------------
        >
        > Yahoo! Groups Links
        >
        >
        >





        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • matthew lamoureux
        What s the run length metal backed photo polymer plates are rated for? What s the longest run you ve gotten out of a photo polymer plate? With proper storage
        Message 3 of 23 , Sep 17, 2009
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          What's the run length metal backed photo polymer plates are rated for?
          What's the longest run you've gotten out of a photo polymer plate?
          With proper storage and care what's the longest anyone has kept and used a plate?

          These are the question the gentleman I'm working on a project for is asking. He's skeptical about using plastic plates, but understands the cost saving compared to magnesium. I'm also trying to show him he won't need to make an investment in lots of type he he uses plates.




          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • Scott Rubel
          I can t give you a run number, but there s one plate I ve used over three years at probably 10,000 impressions, more or less. I could be off by a couple
          Message 4 of 23 , Sep 17, 2009
          • 0 Attachment
            I can't give you a run number, but there's one plate I've used over
            three years at probably 10,000 impressions, more or less.

            I could be off by a couple thousand.

            They should not wear out from age unless you are in high humidity.
            When I first got started with polymers I had a batch that kept
            disintegrating. For one thing, I didn't know back then that they were
            water etched, being accustomed to metal plates. For another thing, I
            didn't notice that they were on a table inches from an old brick wall
            which the rain came down. The plates were getting bombarded with tiny
            splatters at night when I wasn't there.

            --Scott

            On Sep 17, 2009, at 8:15 PM, matthew lamoureux wrote:

            > What's the run length metal backed photo polymer plates are rated for?
            > What's the longest run you've gotten out of a photo polymer plate?
            > With proper storage and care what's the longest anyone has kept and
            > used a plate?
            >
            > These are the question the gentleman I'm working on a project for
            > is asking. He's skeptical about using plastic plates, but
            > understands the cost saving compared to magnesium. I'm also trying
            > to show him he won't need to make an investment in lots of type he
            > he uses plates.
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            >
            >
            >
            > ------------------------------------
            >
            > Yahoo! Groups Links
            >
            >
            >
          • susanne martin
            What do you do about the sticky stuff that holds it to the base? I have only used my plates a few times for much shorter runs, I am worried about when the
            Message 5 of 23 , Sep 18, 2009
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              What do you do about the sticky stuff that holds it to the base? I have only used my plates a few times for much shorter runs, I am worried about when the sticky won't stick any more.



              Susanne



              To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
              From: scott@...
              Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 20:28:19 -0700
              Subject: Re: [PPLetterpress] Run length of Polymer plates





              I can't give you a run number, but there's one plate I've used over
              three years at probably 10,000 impressions, more or less.

              I could be off by a couple thousand.

              They should not wear out from age unless you are in high humidity.
              When I first got started with polymers I had a batch that kept
              disintegrating. For one thing, I didn't know back then that they were
              water etched, being accustomed to metal plates. For another thing, I
              didn't notice that they were on a table inches from an old brick wall
              which the rain came down. The plates were getting bombarded with tiny
              splatters at night when I wasn't there.

              --Scott

              On Sep 17, 2009, at 8:15 PM, matthew lamoureux wrote:

              > What's the run length metal backed photo polymer plates are rated for?
              > What's the longest run you've gotten out of a photo polymer plate?
              > With proper storage and care what's the longest anyone has kept and
              > used a plate?
              >
              > These are the question the gentleman I'm working on a project for
              > is asking. He's skeptical about using plastic plates, but
              > understands the cost saving compared to magnesium. I'm also trying
              > to show him he won't need to make an investment in lots of type he
              > he uses plates.
              >
              >
              >
              >
              > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              >
              >
              >
              > ------------------------------------
              >
              > Yahoo! Groups Links
              >
              >
              >









              _________________________________________________________________
              Hotmail� has ever-growing storage! Don�t worry about storage limits.
              http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Storage?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial_Storage_062009

              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • Peter Fraterdeus
              ... Welcome Claire! ... Congratulations! Welcome again to the wonderfully fulfilling and regularly frustrating world of letterpress printing (with polymer!)
              Message 6 of 23 , Sep 18, 2009
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                On 17 Sep 2009, at 8:32 PM, Claire Gendron wrote:

                > This is my first post to this group.

                Welcome Claire!

                > I've used illustrator and photoshop quite a bit and just bought a
                > pilot and
                > am really excited about creating my own designs.

                Congratulations!

                Welcome again to the wonderfully fulfilling and regularly frustrating
                world of letterpress printing (with polymer!)


                > I know how to use the adobe programs but I don't know what resolution
                > settings/types of images are best to use to create plates. Are line
                > images
                > best?

                Unless you are attempting to produce halftone images (ie, like photos
                in a newspaper), which would likely increase your frustration level
                quite a lot as a beginner, stick to line art, 100% solid spot-colors,
                and relatively small solid areas. Small presses are great for type,
                not for solid color across the whole piece.

                > Can varying gray scales be reproduced? Also, would a deep relief base
                > be better than a regular base?

                Only if the extra depth allows you to use gauge pins

                > Why do they recommend a smaller base than
                > the printer's chase size?
                >

                Because on most hand-fed platen presses, you have to put gauge pins in
                the tympan sheet and the base will smash into them.

                > Any information would be appreciated as I don't have any other
                > source of
                > information, have never used a press, and have yet to have
                > successfully
                > goaded my significant other into setting up my pilot : (
                >

                Hmmm. I highly recommend searching out the (inevitable?) other hidden
                letterpress folks in your area.
                While this list is full of helpful people (and an invaluable archive,
                highly recommended) there's nothing like seeing the real thing in
                action!


                Here are my top five points for letterpress printers

                1. Keep your hands out of the press when it's moving
                1a. check three times before turning the press that no collisions
                are imminent - between form and gauge pins, frisket arms and form, etc
                etc. Go slow.

                2. use waaaaay less ink than you think you'll need... a teaspoon of
                ink will print thousands of business cards ;-)
                But if you're mixing a color, mix more than you think you'll need! Mix
                magnesium carbonate (a type of chalk from printmaking suppiers like
                Daniel Smith) into your ink to 'shorten it'. Most commercial printing
                inks are for lithography and are far too viscous to work well for
                relief printing. Use more 'mag' than you think you'll need ;-).... but
                not too much!

                2a. Don't hesitate to dump your ink, wash the press and start over
                if it's not working right.
                2b. use waaay less ink on the press than you think you'll need...
                did I say that already?

                3. raise the rollers, using layers of thin, smooth (Scotch?) tape on
                the roller tracks. If they no longer ink the form, they're too high.
                Otherwise, keep raising them ;-)

                3a. buy new rollers and never let them sit on the form or the ink-
                plate for longer than a few seconds. Flat spots are easily prevented,
                but will ruin any chance of good printing.
                3b. use good steel roller trucks, and keep them as clean as possible

                4. use an appropriate stock, appropriate packing behind the tympan
                sheet and appropriate makeready. In the final days of commercial
                letterpress, printers used as smooth and hard a stock as possible to
                get a very sharp 'kiss' impression, with practically no depth. Today,
                we have the luxury of using fine soft papers, like fine-art etching
                (Rives, Arches, Hahnemuhle) or a few commercial papers such as Crane's
                Lettra, designed to take the depth of impression. However, the back
                side of the sheet should still show very little evidence. Use as
                little makeready as possible (the sheets under the tympan added to the
                packing), but use enough!

                4a. Control the humidity in the press room. Winter dryness will make
                for very hard paper. 50% humidity is excellent, but nearly impossible
                to maintain in heating season (or in the desert, etc). Dampened paper
                is a joy to print, but adds substantially to the time, and is
                impractical for many jobs, and for many papers. Check the archives
                here for more on that.

                5. Demand perfection from your press. But be happy with progress ;-)

                Good luck, and keep us up to date!

                Peter

                Peter Fraterdeus
                Exquisite Letterpress from Slow Print Studios
                http://slowprint.com/
              • Amanda Dimitrov
                I second that!! Thanks very much for your time and help! I am brand new to this forum but love it already! thank you again!! ________________________________
                Message 7 of 23 , Sep 18, 2009
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                  I second that!! Thanks very much for your time and help! I am brand new to this forum but love it already!
                  thank you again!!




                  ________________________________
                  From: "engrossersscript@..." <engrossersscript@...>
                  To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                  Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 9:04:33 PM
                  Subject: Re: & CALLIGRAPHY Re: [PPLetterpress] Re: photopolymer plate newbie

                   
                  Thank you all soooooooooooo very much for taking the time to answer my question! I really really appreciate it. I can not wait to show you guys how it comes out when I do it.

                  -----Original Message-----
                  From: Scott Rubel <scott@invitesite. com>
                  To: PPLetterpress@ yahoogroups. com
                  Sent: Thu, Sep 17, 2009 7:01 pm
                  Subject: Re: & CALLIGRAPHY Re: [PPLetterpress] Re: photopolymer plate newbie

                  1200 dpi if the lines are thin. Then you may have to play with
                  contrast and then turn into a bitmap to be sure the black is really
                  black. It may look black on your monitor, but the negative will
                  develop as a screen if it's not 100%.

                  --Scott

                  On Sep 17, 2009, at 4:31 PM, foofnik79 wrote:

                  > i scan my calligraphy in at 600 dpi. make sure the dots on all of
                  > the i's, j's, etc. are large enough that they don't get lost. make
                  > sure the artwork is 100% black and change it to a bitmap for
                  > ordering. check your hairlines and dots again in bitmap format.
                  > that's it!
                  >
                  > --- In PPLetterpress@ yahoogroups. com, engrossersscript@ ... wrote:
                  >>
                  >>
                  >> I am?a calligrapher - so what if I want to write my own script and
                  >> scan it... can anyone give me some advise as to what resolution to
                  >> scan it or if its even possible! =( I dnt have a machine YET but I
                  >> am getting ready!
                  >>
                  >> Leenah
                  >>
                  >> Houston, Tx

                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                • Amanda Dimitrov
                  Hi! I cannot tell you how helpful your post was! I am saving this one! Thanks again for this great advice and links!! ________________________________ From:
                  Message 8 of 23 , Sep 18, 2009
                  • 0 Attachment
                    Hi!
                    I cannot tell you how helpful your post was! I am saving this one!
                    Thanks again for this great advice and links!!




                    ________________________________
                    From: Visualpropaganda <visualpropaganda.01@...>
                    To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                    Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 5:30:40 PM
                    Subject: Re: [PPLetterpress] photopolymer plate newbie

                     
                    Hello Amanda,

                    Illustrator, InDesign and Photoshop are the big names in the Graphic
                    Design Market. They have a lot of features. And they are quite
                    expensive.
                    But they are by no means necessary to make your design. You can do it
                    in Word if you have to (I wouldn't), you could even draw your designs
                    and have them scanned. But as Scott mentioned there are also a few
                    free vector and bitmap editing apps, that can give you most of the
                    main-features of Illustrator or InDesign:

                    The Gimp (Bitmap/Picture- Editing): http://www.gimp. org/

                    Inkscape (Vector): http://www.inkscape.org/

                    If you need fonts for your designs, there are a lot of free fonts that
                    are really high quality and beautyfull. A good start to look for fonts
                    is:
                    http://www.dafont. com/

                    If you want script fonts, check:
                    http://www.dafont. com/theme. php?cat=601

                    Also a lot of font-designer give away some of their fonts for free.
                    For example
                    Jos Buivenga (exljibris): http://www.josbuive nga.demon. nl/index. html

                    I used Calluna regular, which he gives away for free for a card design
                    for my sister.

                    Hope that get's you started. All the best
                    Mirko

                    Am 17.09.2009 um 22:50 schrieb Scott Rubel:

                    > I create almost everything with InDesign and sometimes Illustrator,
                    > when
                    > making plates. These programs allow me to manipulate type and render
                    > it
                    > about as close to the way it should be as you can get. You need at
                    > least
                    > Illustrator and a decent collection of fonts.
                    >
                    > Adobe's current licensing restrictions are pretty harsh, though. They
                    > won't both you if you only use one or two computers, but these
                    > programs
                    > are still expensive if you are just starting out and didn't plan on
                    > acquiring them. Even though I own all this stuff, I haven't been
                    > upgrading for the last couple of years, and if I had to start over I
                    > would consider some alternatives.
                    >
                    > For instance, I am pretty certain that Adobe Elements or Photoshop
                    > Lite
                    > may let me do all the tricks I currently do with Photoshop, and I
                    > would
                    > not miss whatever it is that is missing in the lite version.
                    >
                    > Also, I have been told about a shareware photo manipulator called The
                    > Gimp. Once again, I am passing along news I have not first hand
                    > knowledge of, but if I were starting out today, I'd play around with
                    > that before laying out the dough for Photoshop. <http://gimp. org>
                    >
                    > Similarly, I would try a shareware alternative to Illustrator, like
                    > Lineform or Inkscape.
                    > http://applezoom. com/2007/ 07/12/cheap- alternative- to-adobe- illustrator- for-mac-os- x
                    > I do not know how they handle type, though, so I look forward to
                    > hearing
                    > about all these from personal experience.
                    >
                    > --Scott
                    >
                    > amanda.dimitrov wrote:
                    >> Hi all,
                    >> I am new to the photopolymer plate making technology. I just
                    >> purchased a new base from Boxcar Press for my Kelsey 5x8 press. My
                    >> experience with letterpress thus far has strictly been in hand set
                    >> type and printing blocks that I have found on Ebay. I am so
                    >> excited to be able to create my own designs; however, I am having
                    >> trouble understanding which program(s) to use to make my designs
                    >> and how to get my designs to the platemakers. Do most of you create
                    >> designs using Illustrator or Photoshop? Then after the design is
                    >> created, do you PDF the document (I read on Boxcar Press that they
                    >> prefer PDF docs)? What if I wanted to create a simple design using
                    >> Word and then PDF that doc? Would that work as well?
                    >>
                    >> Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I have read many of these
                    >> posts, in addition to researching on Boxcar Press.
                    >>
                    >> Thanks so much in advance!!
                    >> ~A
                    >>
                    >>
                    >>
                    >> ------------ --------- --------- ------
                    >>
                    >> Yahoo! Groups Links
                    >>
                    >>
                    >>
                    >>
                    >
                    >
                    > ------------ --------- --------- ------
                    >
                    > Yahoo! Groups Links
                    >
                    >
                    >




                    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  • Eric
                    ... I have gotten 25,000 impressions off MS plates with no wear, on a cylinder press. Still have the plates, 21 years old now, sitting on a galley; they look
                    Message 9 of 23 , Sep 18, 2009
                    • 0 Attachment
                      --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, matthew lamoureux <lamsland@...> wrote:
                      >
                      > What's the run length metal backed photo polymer plates are rated for?
                      > What's the longest run you've gotten out of a photo polymer plate?
                      > With proper storage and care what's the longest anyone has kept and used a plate?
                      >
                      I have gotten 25,000 impressions off MS plates with no wear, on a cylinder press. Still have the plates, 21 years old now, sitting on a galley; they look printable, but are line art with little detail.
                      On the other hand, the HX plates I use now are sometimes unfit for re-use after a couple years, wrapped for storage, if they are typographically detailed. Sometimes re-drying helps, sometimes not.
                      The most common practice is to store in a plastic bag to protect from moisture, and away from light. I tend to wrap in used tympan paper (an imperfect barrier), but I also have lead-mounted plates just sitting on galleys, most of which are fine. Go figure.
                      Lots of variables, not just light and moisture but also the kind (and batch) of plate material itself are at work here. With photopolymer, I'd say the most important thing to save for re-use is the negative.
                      --Eric Holub, SF
                    • Visualpropaganda
                      Amanda, you are most welcome. If you need more help, just post it here. I ve started doing letterpress a few weeks ago myself. I bought a heidelberg windmill
                      Message 10 of 23 , Sep 18, 2009
                      • 0 Attachment
                        Amanda, you are most welcome.

                        If you need more help, just post it here. I've started doing
                        letterpress a few weeks ago myself. I bought a heidelberg windmill on
                        ebay. But I'm a designer for a long time and have done prepress for
                        offset for some years now. The prepress process for offset printing
                        and for preparing photopolymer plates is not very different.

                        Have a nice weekend
                        Mirko

                        Am 18.09.2009 um 15:24 schrieb Amanda Dimitrov:

                        > Hi!
                        > I cannot tell you how helpful your post was! I am saving this one!
                        > Thanks again for this great advice and links!!
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        > ________________________________
                        > From: Visualpropaganda <visualpropaganda.01@...>
                        > To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                        > Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 5:30:40 PM
                        > Subject: Re: [PPLetterpress] photopolymer plate newbie
                        >
                        >
                        > Hello Amanda,
                        >
                        > Illustrator, InDesign and Photoshop are the big names in the Graphic
                        > Design Market. They have a lot of features. And they are quite
                        > expensive.
                        > But they are by no means necessary to make your design. You can do it
                        > in Word if you have to (I wouldn't), you could even draw your designs
                        > and have them scanned. But as Scott mentioned there are also a few
                        > free vector and bitmap editing apps, that can give you most of the
                        > main-features of Illustrator or InDesign:
                        >
                        > The Gimp (Bitmap/Picture- Editing): http://www.gimp. org/
                        >
                        > Inkscape (Vector): http://www.inkscape.org/
                        >
                        > If you need fonts for your designs, there are a lot of free fonts that
                        > are really high quality and beautyfull. A good start to look for fonts
                        > is:
                        > http://www.dafont. com/
                        >
                        > If you want script fonts, check:
                        > http://www.dafont. com/theme. php?cat=601
                        >
                        > Also a lot of font-designer give away some of their fonts for free.
                        > For example
                        > Jos Buivenga (exljibris): http://www.josbuive nga.demon. nl/index.
                        > html
                        >
                        > I used Calluna regular, which he gives away for free for a card design
                        > for my sister.
                        >
                        > Hope that get's you started. All the best
                        > Mirko
                        >
                        > Am 17.09.2009 um 22:50 schrieb Scott Rubel:
                        >
                        >> I create almost everything with InDesign and sometimes Illustrator,
                        >> when
                        >> making plates. These programs allow me to manipulate type and render
                        >> it
                        >> about as close to the way it should be as you can get. You need at
                        >> least
                        >> Illustrator and a decent collection of fonts.
                        >>
                        >> Adobe's current licensing restrictions are pretty harsh, though. They
                        >> won't both you if you only use one or two computers, but these
                        >> programs
                        >> are still expensive if you are just starting out and didn't plan on
                        >> acquiring them. Even though I own all this stuff, I haven't been
                        >> upgrading for the last couple of years, and if I had to start over I
                        >> would consider some alternatives.
                        >>
                        >> For instance, I am pretty certain that Adobe Elements or Photoshop
                        >> Lite
                        >> may let me do all the tricks I currently do with Photoshop, and I
                        >> would
                        >> not miss whatever it is that is missing in the lite version.
                        >>
                        >> Also, I have been told about a shareware photo manipulator called The
                        >> Gimp. Once again, I am passing along news I have not first hand
                        >> knowledge of, but if I were starting out today, I'd play around with
                        >> that before laying out the dough for Photoshop. <http://gimp. org>
                        >>
                        >> Similarly, I would try a shareware alternative to Illustrator, like
                        >> Lineform or Inkscape.
                        >> http://applezoom. com/2007/ 07/12/cheap- alternative- to-adobe-
                        >> illustrator- for-mac-os- x
                        >> I do not know how they handle type, though, so I look forward to
                        >> hearing
                        >> about all these from personal experience.
                        >>
                        >> --Scott
                        >>
                        >> amanda.dimitrov wrote:
                        >>> Hi all,
                        >>> I am new to the photopolymer plate making technology. I just
                        >>> purchased a new base from Boxcar Press for my Kelsey 5x8 press. My
                        >>> experience with letterpress thus far has strictly been in hand set
                        >>> type and printing blocks that I have found on Ebay. I am so
                        >>> excited to be able to create my own designs; however, I am having
                        >>> trouble understanding which program(s) to use to make my designs
                        >>> and how to get my designs to the platemakers. Do most of you create
                        >>> designs using Illustrator or Photoshop? Then after the design is
                        >>> created, do you PDF the document (I read on Boxcar Press that they
                        >>> prefer PDF docs)? What if I wanted to create a simple design using
                        >>> Word and then PDF that doc? Would that work as well?
                        >>>
                        >>> Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I have read many of these
                        >>> posts, in addition to researching on Boxcar Press.
                        >>>
                        >>> Thanks so much in advance!!
                        >>> ~A
                        >>>
                        >>>
                        >>>
                        >>> ------------ --------- --------- ------
                        >>>
                        >>> Yahoo! Groups Links
                        >>>
                        >>>
                        >>>
                        >>>
                        >>
                        >>
                        >> ------------ --------- --------- ------
                        >>
                        >> Yahoo! Groups Links
                        >>
                        >>
                        >>
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        > ------------------------------------
                        >
                        > Yahoo! Groups Links
                        >
                        >
                        >
                      • Scott Rubel
                        Oh, sorry, I only use the steel backed plates, so the sticky answer is for someone else to do. --Scott ... [Non-text portions of this message have been
                        Message 11 of 23 , Sep 18, 2009
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                          Oh, sorry, I only use the steel backed plates, so the sticky answer is
                          for someone else to do. --Scott

                          susanne martin wrote:
                          > What do you do about the sticky stuff that holds it to the base? I have only used my plates a few times for much shorter runs, I am worried about when the sticky won't stick any more.
                          >
                          > Susanne
                          >
                          >
                          > To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                          > From: scott@...
                          >
                          >
                          > I can't give you a run number, but there's one plate I've used over
                          > three years at probably 10,000 impressions, more or less.
                          >
                          > I could be off by a couple thousand.
                          >
                          > They should not wear out from age unless you are in high humidity.
                          > When I first got started with polymers I had a batch that kept
                          > disintegrating. For one thing, I didn't know back then that they were
                          > water etched, being accustomed to metal plates. For another thing, I
                          > didn't notice that they were on a table inches from an old brick wall
                          > which the rain came down. The plates were getting bombarded with tiny
                          > splatters at night when I wasn't there.
                          >
                          > --Scott
                          >
                          > On Sep 17, 2009, at 8:15 PM, matthew lamoureux wrote:
                          >
                          >
                          >> What's the run length metal backed photo polymer plates are rated for?
                          >> What's the longest run you've gotten out of a photo polymer plate?
                          >> With proper storage and care what's the longest anyone has kept and
                          >> used a plate?
                          >>
                          >> These are the question the gentleman I'm working on a project for
                          >> is asking. He's skeptical about using plastic plates, but
                          >> understands the cost saving compared to magnesium. I'm also trying
                          >> to show him he won't need to make an investment in lots of type he
                          >> he uses plates.
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> ------------------------------------
                          >>
                          >> Yahoo! Groups Links
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          > _________________________________________________________________
                          > Hotmail® has ever-growing storage! Don't worry about storage limits.
                          > http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Storage?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial_Storage_062009
                          >
                          > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          > ------------------------------------
                          >
                          > Yahoo! Groups Links
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >


                          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                        • Peter Fraterdeus
                          Sticky stuff comes off clean, the sooner the better. If you re going to store plates, get the sticky off the plate. Then use some fresh the next time ;-)
                          Message 12 of 23 , Sep 18, 2009
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                            Sticky stuff comes off clean, the sooner the better.
                            If you're going to store plates, get the sticky off the plate.
                            Then use some fresh the next time ;-)

                            (Boxcar sells rolls of it)

                            P

                            On 18 Sep 2009, at 12:16 PM, Scott Rubel wrote:

                            > Oh, sorry, I only use the steel backed plates, so the sticky answer is
                            > for someone else to do. --Scott
                            >
                            > susanne martin wrote:
                            >> What do you do about the sticky stuff that holds it to the base? I
                            >> have only used my plates a few times for much shorter runs, I am
                            >> worried about when the sticky won't stick any more.
                            >>
                            >> Susanne
                            >>

                            Peter Fraterdeus
                            Exquisite Letterpress from Slow Print Studios
                            http://slowprint.com/
                          • matthew lamoureux
                            There s a double sided tape I think you use for adhesive mounted plates. We re planing on using metal backed plates on a bunting base so that won t be an
                            Message 13 of 23 , Sep 18, 2009
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                              There's a double sided tape I think you use for adhesive mounted plates. We're planing on using metal backed plates on a bunting base so that won't be an issue. This is on a cylinder press and the guy was very happy to hear we could get upwards of 10,000 impressions per plate. We have some old X-ray storage cabinets to store them in and plan to wrap them in saran wrap. I guess we'll put them in some kraft paper too to be sure they're out of the light.

                              If metal backed plates are stored vertically for a long time will they warp?

                              Matthew "LAMMY" Lamoureux
                              Full Metal Press - Operis servo a specialis nundinae


                              Where the press is free and every man able to read, all is safe.
                              Thomas Jefferson


                              When Benjamin Franklin exited the Constitutional Convention, he was asked by a woman, "Sir, what have you given us?" He replied, "A Republic, Ma'am, if you can keep it".




                              ________________________________
                              From: Peter Fraterdeus <peterf@...>
                              To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
                              Sent: Friday, September 18, 2009 1:22:55 PM
                              Subject: Re: [PPLetterpress] Run length of Polymer plates



                              Sticky stuff comes off clean, the sooner the better.
                              If you're going to store plates, get the sticky off the plate.
                              Then use some fresh the next time ;-)

                              (Boxcar sells rolls of it)

                              P

                              On 18 Sep 2009, at 12:16 PM, Scott Rubel wrote:

                              > Oh, sorry, I only use the steel backed plates, so the sticky answer is
                              > for someone else to do. --Scott
                              >
                              > susanne martin wrote:
                              >> What do you do about the sticky stuff that holds it to the base? I
                              >> have only used my plates a few times for much shorter runs, I am
                              >> worried about when the sticky won't stick any more.
                              >>
                              >> Susanne
                              >>

                              Peter Fraterdeus
                              Exquisite Letterpress from Slow Print Studios
                              http://slowprint. com/







                              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                            • Gerald Lange
                              Matthew The claim for photopolymer under ideal conditions is something like 1,000,000. The only time I ve detected wear is when I printed a couple of thousand
                              Message 14 of 23 , Sep 18, 2009
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                                Matthew

                                The claim for photopolymer under ideal conditions is something like
                                1,000,000. The only time I've detected wear is when I printed a couple
                                of thousand sheets on a paper impregnated with tiny bits of bamboo.

                                I remember Pat Reagh telling me of a job he did on 10,000 sheets of
                                Mexican bark paper that went through three sets of the plates.

                                Normally, though, the stuff is quite resistant to wear.

                                Best way to store them is in zip lock bags. A trick is to breathe into
                                the bag before closing. That provides moisture and carbon dioxide (which
                                revitalizes photopolymer).

                                Store in a cool dark area away from electric devices, lights, motors,
                                etc. Ozone, combined with high temperture, is their enemy.

                                I've been printing with steel-backed plates for about two decades now
                                and they do not curl in my experience. You can store them vertically
                                without concern.

                                Gerald
                                http://BielerPress.blogspot.com

                                matthew lamoureux wrote:
                                > There's a double sided tape I think you use for adhesive mounted plates. We're planing on using metal backed plates on a bunting base so that won't be an issue. This is on a cylinder press and the guy was very happy to hear we could get upwards of 10,000 impressions per plate. We have some old X-ray storage cabinets to store them in and plan to wrap them in saran wrap. I guess we'll put them in some kraft paper too to be sure they're out of the light.
                                >
                                > If metal backed plates are stored vertically for a long time will they warp?
                                >
                                > Matthew "LAMMY" Lamoureux
                                > Full Metal Press - Operis servo a specialis nundinae
                                >
                              • bielerpr
                                Something further on this, as it was addressed earlier. In terms of longevity, photopolymer does not last long, though proper care during printing and storage
                                Message 15 of 23 , Sep 18, 2009
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                                  Something further on this, as it was addressed earlier. In terms of longevity, photopolymer does not last long, though proper care during printing and storage can extend the life. Essentially, if you touch the photopolymer surface and it does not respond with tackiness, the printing advantage is gone. You might as well be printing on acetate.

                                  As Peter suggested, hang on to your film negs if you have any intention of regenerating. With proper storage, film negs tend to last for years. I have some that are at least a decade old and still retain their color and emulsion tack.

                                  Gerald
                                  http://BielerPress.blogspot.com

                                  --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, Gerald Lange <Bieler@...> wrote:
                                  >
                                  > Matthew
                                  >
                                  > The claim for photopolymer under ideal conditions is something like
                                  > 1,000,000. The only time I've detected wear is when I printed a couple
                                  > of thousand sheets on a paper impregnated with tiny bits of bamboo.
                                  >
                                  > I remember Pat Reagh telling me of a job he did on 10,000 sheets of
                                  > Mexican bark paper that went through three sets of the plates.
                                  >
                                  > Normally, though, the stuff is quite resistant to wear.
                                  >
                                  > Best way to store them is in zip lock bags. A trick is to breathe into
                                  > the bag before closing. That provides moisture and carbon dioxide (which
                                  > revitalizes photopolymer).
                                  >
                                  > Store in a cool dark area away from electric devices, lights, motors,
                                  > etc. Ozone, combined with high temperture, is their enemy.
                                  >
                                  > I've been printing with steel-backed plates for about two decades now
                                  > and they do not curl in my experience. You can store them vertically
                                  > without concern.
                                  >
                                  > Gerald
                                  > http://BielerPress.blogspot.com
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