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"Re: [PPLetterpress] rusty trucks"

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  • Paul Pierce
    ... I don t remember much of mine either, even though I taught the redox part that should explain how it all works. I ve just been playing with this
    Message 1 of 3 , Jun 20, 2009
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      > Hi Paul, and welcome.
      >
      > Why would you want to "Keep the part cold, rinse in cold water" rather than hot water? I day dreamed through too many of my high school chemistry classes I'm afraid.

      I don't remember much of mine either, even though I "taught" the redox part that should explain how it all works.

      I've just been playing with this technique. My most recent experiment is using Karo instead of molasses, it doesn't work as well but it did work even though I might have put too much rusty stuff in it. I too thought hot water would be a great way to get the parts clean and get them to dry quickly, but they rust faster than they dry. Not much, and you can just wipe it off of smooth places, but it sort of defeats the purpose. My current technique with the stuff (still) coming out of the bucket of Karo solution (which has been sitting several months now) is to rinse in cold water, pat dry, and spray with WD-40 (because it sprays and I have a can handy.)

      I have also tried soaking rinsed parts in antifreeze, which has a different kind of rust inhibitor in it. I don't recommend this, although nothing bad happened. A next experiment will be to mix some orange oil degreaser into the molasses solution to see if things come out cleaner too.

      My next door neighbor is also playing with de-rusting, he just cleaned up a very rusty belt-buckle like thing using electrolysis in washing soda. It works overnight, or even faster, and is otherwise about the same as the molasses method except you have to set up the variable low voltage DC electricity. Both of us planned to try this, but I was too lazy for the electrolysis and he's not lazy enough for the molasses.

      Paul
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