Re: [PPLetterpress] rusty trucks
- To add to Steve's suggestions. I use a product known as Evapo-Rust. It's
a bath that will knock the rust off anything you can put into it. The
company that manufactures it, Orison, also has a product call Rust Bomb
for materials you can't put in a bath, press beds, etc. They also have a
couple of rust inhibitors, Rust Bandit, which is water based, and they
distribute an oil based rust inhibitor call CP-90. The latter is an
amazing substitute for WD-40. It not only inhibits rust, it lubricates
and it hangs around (I spilled a bottle of it in my tool bag, I have
given up hope of getting it out of there). All of their products are no
VOC, non-flammable, non-toxic, and sewerable. I should also add,
somewhat expensive but that is mainly due to added shipping cost. I was
hoping one of their products would be a great press washup substitute.
Tried a few but no go.
Steve Robison wrote:
> My 2 cents worth...
> If you have more than light surface rust, but not enough for rust remover, you can use this inexpensive trick...
> 1. Wash the trucks first in dish-washing detergent to remove as much oil as possible from the surfaces of the metal, then rinse clean. If there are oily spots on the rust, this method will not work...
> 2. Get a disposable plastic bowl (plastic cottage cheese container, etc.) and soak them in a bath of 50% vinegar and 50% water, with a table spoon or two of salt thrown in too. They should soak in just enough solution to cover them. Soaking them in this mixture will dissolve most of the rust after a few hours...or you can leave them in longer for more severe rust removal. In cases of extreme rust, I have left items in over night, pulled them out and rinsed them off, then put them back in overnight to remove additional rust, repeating the process until they were rust free. By the way, this method will also shine up tarnished pennies and quarters too!
> 3. Once the rust is removed, rinse the trucks thoroughly in water, dry them with a dry rag, polish them with steel wool if desired, and coat them in a light protective oil (3-in-one oil, WD-40, etc.) to stop any residual corrosion.
> 4. Then wipe off most of the oil with another dry rag, leaving a thin film of oil on them to prevent further corrosion or rust.
> That should do the trick!
> By the way, this simple process using kitchen chemistry works well to clean up rusted galley trays and other rusty metal around your shop or studio too.
> Oh, and one last thing...if they are not heavily rusted, you can skip all the soaking and just use steel wool or scotchbrite to remove the light rust, then coat them with a light film of protective oil, and they should last for decades!
> Best wishes,
> Steve Robison
> The Robison Press
> Belmont, CA -- about 25 miles south of San Francisco