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1759RE: [PPLetterpress] Re: offset printing a letterpress design

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  • Michael T Metz
    Jul 17, 2003
    • 0 Attachment
      Did you say why you didn't want to print it letterpress?

      -----Original Message-----
      From: carey johnson [mailto:careysuejohnson@...]
      Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 11:04 AM
      To: PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: [PPLetterpress] Re: offset printing a letterpress design

      I don't think it really needs to be done all that cheaply. But
      frankly, I don't know the budget. It won't be large, mind you, but it
      probably won't be nothing either. The thing is, the run will be
      larger than can be happily produced on a Vandercook. And your point
      about a run that big & chancing the type is well taken. I still don't
      know the numbers of the run, either. At least a thousand. Likely more.

      But are you suggesting that I print (proof) (on the vandercook) and
      scan each color separately instead of going cmyk? (i.e. Go with
      pantone spot color for all of it?) I was wondering if that might be a
      way to go.... Sort of try to reproduce a spot color print on an
      offset press... and scan each color with a slightly different line
      screen? I think that seems like a cool idea.

      --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "eroustom" <ERoustom@w...>
      > I'm curiouse if this had to be done on the cheap, with a straight
      desktop scan... I've got some art school printmaking ideas (as in no
      > budget whatsoever) to lend on this question:
      > My first suggestion would be to avoid the dot. Don't produce a
      half tone, but after you edit your (high res. grayscale) scan,
      > produce line art (bitmap) - if you get it right, the only thing
      missing will be the impression. Second consider overprinting
      > proofs (with different densities of coverage) thereby producing a
      duotone, and adding some depth and complexity to the
      > ink/color that is often missing from offset.
      > Or find someone with a cylinder press to run the job for real (if I
      were to do it, I'd make a plate from a scan anyway - I wouldn't
      > want to take a chance with clunky old wood type surviving 1000
      impressions without the lock-up exploding).
      > Good luck.
      > Elias Roustom
      > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Mats Broberg"
      <mats.broberg@a...> wrote:
      > > > I have plans to offset print a letterpress design done with
      > > > type. We'll print it it on a vandercook, then scan the art to
      > > > films. Does anyone have any cautionary advice for the process?
      > > > wondering...
      > > >
      > > > All comments welcome.
      > > >
      > > > Thanks!
      > > > Carey Johnson
      > >
      > > Carey,
      > >
      > > Jim makes good points about the problem involved in reproducing a
      > > letterpress printed item in offset.
      > >
      > > If you aim for expressing some of the tactile quality of the
      item, the
      > > way to go is probably to work with a professional photographer
      and spend
      > > a few hours in tweaking studio lighting. I recall a project a few
      > > ago when I worked with a photographer to get a good image of a
      piece of
      > > watercolor artwork. At first we tried a traditional reprographic
      > > of the lights, merely to get a starting point, and the result was
      > > impressive. We had to spend alot of time working with different
      > > and different types of lightsources to capture some of the
      > > three-dimensional qualities of the watercolor. If the goal is a
      > > facsimile, then it's another matter and a traditional
      reprographic setup
      > > of lighting may work.
      > >
      > > Your budget may or may not make it possible to work with a
      > > and if it doesn't, you can scan the item on a scanner. However,
      to get
      > > as good a result as possible you may prefer to have it scanned on
      a drum
      > > scanner at a commercial process engraving / prepress company. In
      > > specs, many consumer-grade and semi-professional scanners compare
      > > with high-end equipment, but there are more to it than color
      depth and
      > > resolution. Many times a skilled operator and an old Crosfield
      > > (which took up half a room) creates results that, still, can be
      > > absolutely outstanding.
      > >
      > > When the time comes to the offset printing of the scan, you may
      want to
      > > contact a printing office who works with waterless offset, or FM
      > > / hybrid screens. Waterless offset makes it possible to reproduce
      > > image using a finer screen, and FM screens (frequency modulated)
      > > hybrid screens are methods to screen your image that have some
      > > advantages over traditional AM screens (amplitude modulated).
      > >
      > > Good luck and don't hesitate to drop me a line if you have more
      > > questions.
      > >
      > > Best regards,
      > > Mats Broberg
      > >
      > > Stockholm - S

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