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1755Re: offset printing a letterpress design

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  • cmcgarr1957
    Jul 17 9:00 AM
      I did a poster at Hatch Show Print and some tin designs and the one thing we
      did for the poster was printing each color separate and scan those gray scale
      in to the computer. Then in Photoshop save each file as tiff, then bring the files
      into Quark Express and coloring the images there. The transparent inks used
      in offset gave the same overprint impression as letterpress printing plus you
      have more control. The only thing it didn't have was the tactile feel but it was a
      great look.

      My 2 cents,

      ::
      Casey McGarr
      McGarr Creative
      http://www.mcgarrcreative.com/


      --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "carey johnson" <
      careysuejohnson@y...> wrote:
      > Hej Mats,
      >
      > Tack! Especially for the tip about going with waterless offset and
      > FM screens. I'll try to find out what printer they plan to use.
      >
      >
      > carey
      >
      > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Mats Broberg"
      > <mats.broberg@a...> wrote:
      > > > I have plans to offset print a letterpress design done with wood
      > > > type. We'll print it it on a vandercook, then scan the art to
      > create
      > > > films. Does anyone have any cautionary advice for the process?
      > Just
      > > > wondering...
      > > >
      > > > All comments welcome.
      > > >
      > > > Thanks!
      > > > Carey Johnson
      > >
      > > Carey,
      > >
      > > Jim makes good points about the problem involved in reproducing a
      > > letterpress printed item in offset.
      > >
      > > If you aim for expressing some of the tactile quality of the item,
      > the
      > > way to go is probably to work with a professional photographer and
      > spend
      > > a few hours in tweaking studio lighting. I recall a project a few
      > years
      > > ago when I worked with a photographer to get a good image of a
      > piece of
      > > watercolor artwork. At first we tried a traditional reprographic
      > setup
      > > of the lights, merely to get a starting point, and the result was
      > not
      > > impressive. We had to spend alot of time working with different
      > angles
      > > and different types of lightsources to capture some of the
      > > three-dimensional qualities of the watercolor. If the goal is a mere
      > > facsimile, then it's another matter and a traditional reprographic
      > setup
      > > of lighting may work.
      > >
      > > Your budget may or may not make it possible to work with a
      > photographer,
      > > and if it doesn't, you can scan the item on a scanner. However, to
      > get
      > > as good a result as possible you may prefer to have it scanned on a
      > drum
      > > scanner at a commercial process engraving / prepress company. In the
      > > specs, many consumer-grade and semi-professional scanners compare
      > well
      > > with high-end equipment, but there are more to it than color depth
      > and
      > > resolution. Many times a skilled operator and an old Crosfield
      > Magnascan
      > > (which took up half a room) creates results that, still, can be
      > > absolutely outstanding.
      > >
      > > When the time comes to the offset printing of the scan, you may
      > want to
      > > contact a printing office who works with waterless offset, or FM
      > screens
      > > / hybrid screens. Waterless offset makes it possible to reproduce
      > your
      > > image using a finer screen, and FM screens (frequency modulated) and
      > > hybrid screens are methods to screen your image that have some
      > > advantages over traditional AM screens (amplitude modulated).
      > >
      > > Good luck and don't hesitate to drop me a line if you have more
      > > questions.
      > >
      > > Best regards,
      > > Mats Broberg
      > >
      > > Stockholm - Sweden
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