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12598Re: Reacquired my DX-A3

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  • bielerpr
    May 18, 2011
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      Eric has provided very good advice here. I have not previously seen an explanation of the matte considerations, but they are correct. Talcum powder? It is a daily battle to keep these machines clean of particulate matter, why deliberately introduce it?


      --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, "Eric" <Megalonyx@...> wrote:
      > --- In PPLetterpress@yahoogroups.com, Aaron Wendt <awendt@> wrote:
      > >
      > > Should I mess with getting the original material to hold the plates?
      > That seems pretty basic. How can you process a plate if you can't secure it? The question is whether steel or plastic backed plates will be your primary material. You can put sheet magnet on and then attach green sticky to a steel plate, allowing for both kinds of plate. Boxcar sells it all.
      > > What am I going for on the Stouffer scale for proper exposures?
      > > Where is a good starting point for exposure, wash, dry and post exposure times?
      > > At what temperature should they dry?
      > These all depend on your specific plate material. Get the spec sheet and the information will be there. Drying temp may be off specs, since heaters don't always each required temperatures, so just go longer.
      > > I'm set for film, as we have an imagesetter. It seems Anderson used to recommend a matte film instead of regular lith film. Seems like we used to dust the plates with a fine talcum powder before exposure. Is that right?
      > A few plates are made with matte surface, so matte film isn't needed with them, and some imagesetter film is effectively semi-matte. But in my experience careful rubdown of the krene gives you a good drawdown whatever film and plate are. If it were a glass-faced contact frame then matte would be necessary.
      > --Eric Holub, SF
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