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Re: [NewEnglandCampaigners] Uniform Regs for CS campaigners

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  • tyler goodrich
    Sounds good pard Send it when complete Your pard Tyler Goodrich Matt Reardon wrote: Tyler, I ve been working on a generic
    Message 1 of 7 , Mar 30, 2006
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      Sounds good pard
      Send it when complete
      Your pard
       Tyler Goodrich

      Matt Reardon <carolinaboys1862@...> wrote:
      Tyler,
         I've been working on a generic impression situated aound Taylor's Louisiana Brigade which fought at Front Royal.  If you have any input, it'd be geatly appeciated. I'm going to try to finish up what I have so far this weekend. I'll send it to you and Rob before anything official is set.
       
      Matt
       


      Tyler <pvt_dirty@...> wrote:
      Howdy pards

      Not sure who is going to be incharge of Uniform Regs for the CS
      effort but would like to see a more enforced regulations for this one.
      I can start working on a uniform guide if the Commanders would like.
      Your pard
      Tyler Goodrich






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    • Cpl.R.C.Tarbox
      Matt, The only downside to doing the LA. Reg t. And correct me if I m wrong didn t they go into battle wearing red battleshirts? Seems to me that detail stands
      Message 2 of 7 , Mar 30, 2006
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        Matt,
         
        The only downside to doing the LA. Reg't. And correct me if I'm wrong didn't they go into battle wearing red battleshirts? Seems to me that detail stands in my mind. The bulk of my crew will be sporting Rd I's, commutation jackets as well as a mixture of citizens ware. Not sure who would be inthe market for a red battleshirt unless Dirty wants to make some up at a good price..(grin)
         
        Rob

        tyler goodrich <pvt_dirty@...> wrote:
        Sounds good pard
        Send it when complete
        Your pard
         Tyler Goodrich

        Matt Reardon <carolinaboys1862@...> wrote:
        Tyler,
           I've been working on a generic impression situated aound Taylor's Louisiana Brigade which fought at Front Royal.  If you have any input, it'd be geatly appeciated. I'm going to try to finish up what I have so far this weekend. I'll send it to you and Rob before anything official is set.
         
        Matt
         


        Tyler <pvt_dirty@...> wrote:
        Howdy pards

        Not sure who is going to be incharge of Uniform Regs for the CS
        effort but would like to see a more enforced regulations for this one.
        I can start working on a uniform guide if the Commanders would like.
        Your pard
        Tyler Goodrich






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        "Don't you run till you see the Sixth New Hampshire run; but when you see that regi-ment retreating, you may do likewise." (officer of another regiment fighting with the sixth at Bull Run)

        {History of the Sixth New Hampshire Regiment in the War for the Union
        Captain Lyman Jackman}


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      • Matt Reardon
        Rob and all fellow CS, I never came across that, but I had included the RD I, Comm. jackets and Civilian ware in the uniform requirements. But I guess
        Message 3 of 7 , Mar 30, 2006
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          Rob and all fellow CS,
             I never came across that, but I had included the RD I, Comm. jackets and Civilian ware in the uniform requirements.  But I guess whatever, we'll get as close as we can.  Does anyone have objection to these type of uniform requirements while still attempting to portray a Louisiana unit or should we try to use another Valley unit for our guiding unit.  Because I know the Federals are using the 5th CT and they didn't fight at Front Royal so I would have no objection changing it.
                 Oh BTW, I bought a gey battleshirt while I was in Gettysburg, last November.  I was thinking I was finally going to get a chance to use it.  But I guess whatever the situation I might get to use it.
           
          Matt
          "Cpl.R.C.Tarbox" <rob_6thnhvi@...> wrote:
          Matt,
           
          The only downside to doing the LA. Reg't. And correct me if I'm wrong didn't they go into battle wearing red battleshirts? Seems to me that detail stands in my mind. The bulk of my crew will be sporting Rd I's, commutation jackets as well as a mixture of citizens ware. Not sure who would be inthe market for a red battleshirt unless Dirty wants to make some up at a good price..(grin)
           
          Rob

          tyler goodrich <pvt_dirty@...> wrote:
          Sounds good pard
          Send it when complete
          Your pard
           Tyler Goodrich

          Matt Reardon <carolinaboys1862@...> wrote:
          Tyler,
             I've been working on a generic impression situated aound Taylor's Louisiana Brigade which fought at Front Royal.  If you have any input, it'd be geatly appeciated. I'm going to try to finish up what I have so far this weekend. I'll send it to you and Rob before anything official is set.
           
          Matt
           


          Tyler <pvt_dirty@...> wrote:
          Howdy pards

          Not sure who is going to be incharge of Uniform Regs for the CS
          effort but would like to see a more enforced regulations for this one.
          I can start working on a uniform guide if the Commanders would like.
          Your pard
          Tyler Goodrich






          Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1¢/min.


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          "Don't you run till you see the Sixth New Hampshire run; but when you see that regi-ment retreating, you may do likewise." (officer of another regiment fighting with the sixth at Bull Run)

          {History of the Sixth New Hampshire Regiment in the War for the Union
          Captain Lyman Jackman}

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        • Tom Craig
          Guys, I don t have a stake in this discussion so here are my unbiased thoughts... Part of doing a progressive impression is trying to read the history, and
          Message 4 of 7 , Mar 30, 2006
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            Guys,
               I don't have a stake in this discussion so here are my unbiased thoughts...
            Part of doing a "progressive" impression is trying to read the history, and then do what the book says.  If you take a unit with a specific piece of gear then you ought to try and include that in your impression.  If you don't then there is no difference from a mainstreamer saying "well they would have camped with no tents, but we're going to use A tents bacuase it's easier."
               The 5th CT was chosen for two reasons 1) It was a NE unit that was engaged in the valley in general time frame of the event.  2) It was a fairly generic Federal unit.  The overall event itself, while purported to be a depiction of the fighting in the valley will have little reflection on what actually happened there.
               The point being: if you are concerned about the kit of the men making up your company, than pick a portrayal from the period that matches the kit your folks have.  Either that or get the kit to match the impression.  Anything else is squarely in the streamer world.
            Take care,
             Tom Craig

            Matt Reardon <carolinaboys1862@...> wrote:
            Rob and all fellow CS,
               I never came across that, but I had included the RD I, Comm. jackets and Civilian ware in the uniform requirements.  But I guess whatever, we'll get as close as we can.  Does anyone have objection to these type of uniform requirements while still attempting to portray a Louisiana unit or should we try to use another Valley unit for our guiding unit.  Because I know the Federals are using the 5th CT and they didn't fight at Front Royal so I would have no objection changing it.
                   Oh BTW, I bought a gey battleshirt while I was in Gettysburg, last November.  I was thinking I was finally going to get a chance to use it.  But I guess whatever the situation I might get to use it.
             
            Matt
            "Cpl.R.C.Tarbox" <rob_6thnhvi@...> wrote:
            Matt,
             
            The only downside to doing the LA. Reg't. And correct me if I'm wrong didn't they go into battle wearing red battleshirts? Seems to me that detail stands in my mind. The bulk of my crew will be sporting Rd I's, commutation jackets as well as a mixture of citizens ware. Not sure who would be inthe market for a red battleshirt unless Dirty wants to make some up at a good price..(grin)
             
            Rob

            tyler goodrich <pvt_dirty@...> wrote:
            Sounds good pard
            Send it when complete
            Your pard
             Tyler Goodrich

            Matt Reardon <carolinaboys1862@...> wrote:
            Tyler,
               I've been working on a generic impression situated aound Taylor's Louisiana Brigade which fought at Front Royal.  If you have any input, it'd be geatly appeciated. I'm going to try to finish up what I have so far this weekend. I'll send it to you and Rob before anything official is set.
             
            Matt
             


            Tyler <pvt_dirty@...> wrote:
            Howdy pards

            Not sure who is going to be incharge of Uniform Regs for the CS
            effort but would like to see a more enforced regulations for this one.
            I can start working on a uniform guide if the Commanders would like.
            Your pard
            Tyler Goodrich






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            "Don't you run till you see the Sixth New Hampshire run; but when you see that regi-ment retreating, you may do likewise." (officer of another regiment fighting with the sixth at Bull Run)

            {History of the Sixth New Hampshire Regiment in the War for the Union
            Captain Lyman Jackman}

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            Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1¢/min.

          • Cpl.R.C.Tarbox
            Matt, Don t consider things a bad call. That is what the forum is for...discussions and hashing things out. In my own personal opinion, sometimes we can get so
            Message 5 of 7 , Mar 31, 2006
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              Matt,
               
              Don't consider things a bad call. That is what the forum is for...discussions and hashing things out. In my own personal opinion, sometimes we can get so lost in the details when trying to portray a specific unit that we lose site of what we are trying to accomplish. In addition if one is a perfectionist (guilty)and the particular thing you are trying to recreate from a unit history goes bust it could ruin your weekend. This is why I typicaly tend to lean towards "the generic impression".
               
              As Tom pointed out documentation is key and I would assume that the amount of research needed should be mulled over by the participants for a good long time so that all are on the same page. Don't get me wrong, it certainly can be done and it can be a lot of fun. I just personally don't have the study time required to do the old soldiers proud. I have been portraying a soldier in the 6th New Hampshire for over 5 years and I still have a lot to learn.
               
              Notwithstanding, if someone in the group does have that time and is willing to do the lions share of the leg-work and can disseminate the info. to the group then I am certainly willing to go with the flow.
               
              I might suggest using a Virgina unit for a "guiding impression" and base your kits and drill around that rather than unit specific.
               
              In my humble opinion I think our time might be better spent planning our activities, organizing the rations, details and scenario's. I for one would like to be part of a prisoner scenario. That is of course if the Fed's feed us well. Perhaps allowing a few Rebs to escape due to a sleeping sentinel and then see the sentinel be caught in the act of his slumber. Who knows...something along those lines....
               
              Anyway, we obviously need uniform standards... as Tom mentioned something to the effect as we need to almost tailor the uniform guidlines around what the folks have makes sense.
               
              Matt, you might want to chat with Tyler Goodrich. Material culture is one of his passions. Would be a good resource to tap into.
               
              Generally, I would think good quality frocks, (civilian and miltary), RD I, Commutation and citizen sacks (limited) would be attainable and approriate. Other's opinions may vary.
               
              That's my 2 cents for what it's worth. 
               
              Keep up the good work..
               
              Your's in service
              R.C.Tarbox 
               
               
               


              Matt Reardon <carolinaboys1862@...> wrote:
              Rob,
                After Tom's email, I realize that was an extremely bad call on my part.  How's a Virginia unit like the 48th sound instead of the Louisiana troops.  I don't have many resources at my disposal, but I did a search through some of the AC appoved units and what they would do for an early-war impression and this is what I came up with using the 25th Virginia's website.
               
              Matt 
               
              Guidelines
              I.  Coats - two styles permitted
                  A) Frock Coat (Militia coat or variant):
                      1)  Fabric - Woolen jeans material, cog gray in color (selected by the committee).
                      2)  Lining - Black with white osnaburg sleeves.
                      3)  Collar - Stand-up type, 1-3/4 inches high with radius ends. The perimeter (top, front, and bottom) is to be trimmed in black cotton, 1/4 to 3/8 inches wide.
                      4)  Buttons - There shall be a nine button front and four buttons on the tail of 7/8 inch size. Two cuff size buttons of 3/8 inch size shall be on each non-functional cuff. All buttons shall be two-piece, Virginia State Seal brass buttons.
                      5)  Stitching - All inside stitching is to be done by machine with unbleached white cotton thread. Buttonholes and top stitching along the button line and around the cuffs are to be hand stitched with unbleached white or gray cotton or cotton covered polyester top stitch button hole thread. Bottom edge shall be hemmed.
               
              II.  Jacket - Richmond Depot pattern as defined by Mr. Les Jensen as the "Type I" pattern:
                      A)  Fabric- Gray woolen jeans. Color may range from light to medium gray or may be of a brownish caste of gray. Collar, cuffs, and epaulettes shall be of same color and fabric as the body. Collar, cuffs and epaulettes should be trimmed in black cotton piping.
                      B)  Buttons- Two Piece Stamped Brass of one of three patterns:
                          1) Confederate Block "I"
                          2) Federal "Eagle" general service
                          3) Federal "Eagle" with Infantry "I" in shield
                          4) Epaulette buttons- of same style as above or plain except in cuff size.
                      C)  Lining- Fabric shall be unbleached cotton osnaburg throughout. One inside pocket in the left breast shall be sewn into or onto the lining.
                      D)  Collar- Shall be from 1-1/8 to 1-5/8 inches -in height.
               
                      E)  Epaulettes- Shall be 1-5/8 inches wide and extend from the shoulder seam to within 1/4 inch of the collar or 1-5/8 inches wide ending in a 5/8 inch radius.
                      F)  Belt Loops- Shall be 7/8 inch wide and 3-1/4 inches long and shall be stitched over or just behind the side seam of the jacket. Without buttons.
                      G)  Stitching- All stitching to be done by hand or machine with unbleached cotton thread. Button holes and topstitching along the button line and around the cuffs are to be hand stitched with unbleached white cotton topstitch and button hole thread.
              III.  Trousers - Two styles shall be allowed:
                      A) Richmond depot or other military patterns
                          1) Cut high in the waist loose in the seat no split in cuffs.
                          2) Waistband width shall be from a minimum of 7/8 inch in the rear to a maximum of 1-3/4 inches in the front.
                          3) Fly shall be from 1-1/4 inches to 1-3/4 inches in width.
                          4) Trousers shall have an adjustment belt and buckle in rear below the waistband.
                          5) All visible stitching shall be hand-sewn. Hidden interior stitching may be machine sewn.
                          6) Topstitching shall be of unbleached or off-white cotton or cotton covered polyester top stitching/buttonhole thread.
                          7) Buttons shall be four hole type of bone, tin, porcelain or pewter.
                      B) Commutation Pattern- Shall be cut generally the same as the military style patterns with the following differences:
                          1) Fabric may be of brown, black, or gay wool or woolen jeans.
                          2) Lining may be of brown, black or unbleached cotton fabric.
                          3) Topstitching may be of black, brown, or unbleached white topstitching/buttonhole cotton or cotton covered polyester thread.
                          4) Visible stitching should be sewn by hand but may be sewn by machine on civilian style trousers.
                          5) Buttons shall be four hole type of bone, tin, porcelain, or pewter.
              IV.  Hats - Three styles shall be allowed:
                      A) High crowned military cap
              These shall be of fight to medium gray wool or woolen jeans. They shall have a black leather brim of a minimum of 1-3/4 inches in prolongation and a black patent leather chin strap with brass adjustment. Two brass two-piece buttons shall hold chin strap on and shall be of Virginia state seal pattern, Federal "Eagle" pattern, or plain brass. The cap shall have a welt around the crown. Caps shall have a leather sweatband and brown or black cotton lining. No ornamentation is permitted. Militia caps shall be permitted.
                      B) Low crowned military cap
              These shall be of a light to medium gray or a brownish caste of gray in wool or woolen jeans. It shall have a black leather brim of a minimum of l-3/4'iches prolongation and a black patent leather chin strap with brass adjustment. Two brass two-piece buttons shall hold chin strap on and shall be either plain brass or of Federal "Eagle" pattern. The cap shall have a leather sweatband and brown or black cotton lining. No ornamentation is permitted. The cap shall not have a welt around the crown but shall have a sunken top and shall have a burlap stiffener inside.
                      C) Slouched or Plug Hat
              These hats shall be of black, brown or buff wool felt with silk or satin ribbon head band and sweat band of leather or cloth. Hats shall have brims from 2-1/4 to 33/4 inches in width and crowns no taller than 5-1/2 inches. Prohibited hats are straw hats, bowlers, wheel caps, top hats, stovepipes, or extremely floppy hats. No ornamentation is allowed. Hat cords are not advised.
              V.  Shirt:
              Shirts shall be of any period pattern and shall be cotton cloth in white, brown, brick red striped or checked patterns. Patterns may be of woven thread or dye print. Prints shall be of a relatively large pattern on a single background color. Buttons shall be four hole type of bone, porcelain ,mother-of-pearl, or pewter. Colors should be plain and subdued. Prohibited prints include calico, small paisley and any multi-colored print.
              VI.  Over shirt (optional):
              These shall be of the button front "battle shirt" style, of woolen or cotton flannel of gray or brown color. The shirt shall have a fold over collar. Buttons shall be of wood or stained bone. Stitches shall be of brown or unbleached white cotton or cotton covered polyester. May have black piping.
              VII.  Socks:
              Socks shall be gray, brown, or white knitted wool or cotton. No colored tops or toes allowed.
              VIII.  Shoes (brogans) - Four styles shall be allowed:
                      A) U.S. Military issue - These shall be of black leather with leather soles and ties. Soles shall be either pegged or sewn together.
                      B) C. S. Military Issue - Shall be of black or russet leather. Straight last or right/left are allowed. These shall have leather soles and ties. Pegged or sewn.
                      C) Civilian Style - Shall be of black leather with leather soles and ties. These shall be of any common period style.
                      D) British Contract - These shall be of black leather with the smooth side of the leather on the outside. These shall be right and left. Leather soles and ties are required.
              IX.  Vests - Two styles shall be permitted:
                      A) Military style vest
              Shall be of light gray or dark blue wool cloth. Shall have a stand-up collar approximately 1 inch in height. There shall be a nine button front with Virginia state seal or Federal eagle two-piece cuff size brass buttons. Interiors shall be lined white or brown cotton or osnaburg. Back is to be constructed of black or brown with belt of same material with buckle. Three to four pockets shall be allowed; two near the bottom and one or two at the breast.
                      B) Civilian style vest
              Shall be of woo1en material in gray, brown, blue or black, in solids and simple patterns. There shall be a five to six button front with plain brass or cloth covered buttons. Lining shall be of osnaburg or white or brown cotton. Backs shall be brown or black cotton with belt of the same material with buckle. Shall have two pockets on the front near the bottom.
               X.  Weapons - The following are approved as originals or reproductions.
              A) MI816, M1822, or M1835 Springfield/Harpers' Ferry muskets converted to percussion.
              B) M1842 Springfield/Harpers' Ferry musket.
              C) Transitional Model Virginia Manufactory musket converted to percussion.
              D) M1855 or M1861 Springfield or contract .58 caliber Rifled-Musket.
              E) PI853, P1855 Enfield .577 caliber Rifled-Musket.
              XI.  Bayonet:
                      A)  Socket bayonet corresponding to the selected weapon.
                      B)  Bayonet Scabbard - Three styles shall be permitted
                          1) M1842 or similar for .69 cal. musket socket bayonet. Shall be constructed of black leather with waist belt carriage and brass finial.
                          2) M1855 for .58 cal. Rifled- Musket bayonet of black leather with waist belt carriage and brass finial.
                      C) Enfield style for.577 caliber Rifled-Musket bayonet of black leather and with waist belt carriage and brass finial.
              XII.  Waist belt - Three styles shad be permitted:
                      A) Roller Buckle style - Shall be between 1 to 2 inches in width of black leather with a japanned steel roller buckle with one tongue and a black leather keeper.
                      B) Frame Buckle style - Shall be approximately 2 inches width of black or russet leather and have a two- tongued square "Georgia Frame" or rectangular "Forked Tongue" buckle of cast brass.
                      C) Belt Plate Style - Shall be approximately 2 inches in width of black buff or bridle leather. Shall have a cast brass oval or upturned 'U.S.' oval belt plate.
                      D) U.S. Regulation Belts:
                          1) M1841 Infantry- was made of white buff leather with a leather loop and used the small US plate. This plate had only one arrow stud and a hook.

                          2) M1841 Riflemen - was made of black buff leather 2 in wide with a leather loop and used the large 3.5 x 2.2 in US plate. This plate had two studs and a hook.

                          3) M1851 - was made of black buff leather 1.5 in wide with a leather loop at the left end. The US plate, 2.8 x 1.6 in, was attached to the right end. This plate had one arrow stud and a hook. This style waist belt was extensively copied by the southern states during the War.

                          4) M1855 Infantry - was made of black buff or bridle leather 1.9 in wide with a brass keeper on the left end and the US plate, 3.5 x 2.2 in, was attached to the right end. This plate had two arrow studs and a hook. This was the most commonly made waist belt made during the War.

                          5) M1855 Rifleman - was made of shoe leather, black on the outside and russet on the inside, 2.2 to 2.4 in wide. This belt had two brass loops attached near the simple two piece hook-style buckle; the loops were used to attach the knapsack breast straps.

                     
              Note: Canvas webbing may be substituted for leather.
              XIII.  Cap Pouch - Shall be the variant style commonly known as the "shield front "(M1842 or M1855). Constructed of black bridle leather with a brass finial with one or two leather loops on the rear. Pouch shall have double flaps with tuft of sheep's wool and leather loop for nipple prick.
              XIV.  Cartridge box sling - two styles shall be allowed:
                      A) Leather - Black bridle or buff leather, 2-1/4 to 2-1/2 inches wide and of a length so that the cartridge box rests on the hip just below the waist belt.
                      B) Canvas web - Shall be of natural colored webbing. The belt should be from 1-7/8 inches to 2-1/4 inches wide of a length so that the cartridge box rests on the hip just below the waist belt. The belt shall have a leather billet at each end.
                  Note: Breastplates are prohibited.
              XV.  Cartridge boxes - Four types allowed
                      A) Model 1839 Variant
                      B) Model 1842 Cartridge Box,.69 cal. - Shall be made of black bridle leather with double flaps and implement pocket. The box shall have two horizontal loops on the rear and two buckles on the bottom to engage shoulder belt. Tin inserts required.
                      C) Model 1855 Cartridge Box, .69 Caliber - Shall be made of black bridle leather with double flaps and implement pocket. The box shall have two horizontal loops on the rear and two buckles on the bottom to engage shoulder belt and two vertical loops on the rear to engage waist belt. Tin inserts required.
                      D) Model 1855 Cartridge Box, .58 Caliber - Shall be made of black bridle leather with double flaps and implement pocket. The box shall have two horizontal loops on the rear and two buckles on the bottom to engage shoulder belt and two vertical loops on the rear to engage waist belt, Tin inserts are required.
                      Note- Cartridge Box plates are prohibited on all models.
              XVI.  Haversacks - four styles are allowed
                      A) Unpainted with buckle closure
              Shall be from 14 inches deep by 10 3/4 inches wide to 14 inches deep by 12-1/2 inches wide in size. Fabric shall be white cotton duck. Interior shall have removable cotton cloth bag held in place by three bone or stamped tin buttons sewn to the interior of the haversack. Sling shall be non-adjustable. Closure shall be 1/2 -inch black or russet leather strap and keeper with japanned roller buckle.
                      B) Painted with buckle closure
              Shall be from 14 inches deep by 10-3/4 wide to 14 inches deep by 12-1/2 inches wide in size. Fabric shall be of white cotton duck or drill with black painted exterior. Interior shall have removable cotton cloth bag held in place by three bone or stamped tin buttons sewn to the interior of the haversack. Sling shall be non-adjustable. Closure shall be 1/2 inch black leather strap and keeper with japanned roller buckle.
                      C) Painted with button closure
              Shall be from 14 inches deep by 10-3/4 inches wide to 14 inches deep by 12-1/2 inches wide in size. Fabric shall be white cotton duck or drill with black painted exterior. Interior shall have removable cotton cloth bag held in place by three bone or stamped tin buttons, sewn to t the interior of the haversack. Sling shall be nonadjustable. Closure shall be single button of bone or stamped tin sewn to the bag with a hand-stitched buttonhole on the flap.
                      D) Unpainted with button closure
              Shall be approximately 12 inches by 12 inches in size with no gusset in the bottom. Fabric shall be of white cotton duck or drill. Sling shall be non-adjustable. Closure shall be front one to three bone or wooden four hole buttons or brass or cast pewter flat buttons. Buttons shall be sewn to bag with button holes in flap.
              XVII.  Canteens - four styles to be allowed
                      A) Wooden "cheesebox" style - Shall be of oak or cedar wood, approximately 7 inches in diameter and with cork or wooden stopper. Canteen shall have strap of white cotton or russet leather.
                      B) Plain face tin drum - Shall have slight convex face with flat back or with both sides flat. Approximately 5 to 7-1/2 inches in diameter and 1 1/2 to2-1/21inches thick. Shall have white cotton or russet leather strap. Shall have wooden or cork stopper.
                      C) Model 1858 "Smooth side" - Shall have gray or blue wool or woolen jeans cover or may be used without cover. Shall have white cotton or black or brown leather strap. Leather strap shall have roller buckle and keeper. Canteen shall have cork stopper. Dimensions shall be 7 to 8 inches In diameter and 2 1/2 inches thick at the center.
                      D) Model 1858 "Bullseye" (Produced after 1861) - Shall have gray or blue wool or woolen jeans cover or may be used without cover. Shall have white cotton or black or brown leather strap. Leather strap shall have roller buckle and keeper. Canteen shall have cork stopper. Dimensions shall be 7 to 8 inches in diameter and 2 1/2 inches thick at the center. Shall have from five to nine corrugated rings on each side.
              XVIII.  Blanket:
              A)  Primary Blanket - Shall be of gray wool with black end stripes. No insignia. May also use blankets of brown, tan or dark blue woolen material. Captured Federal with U.S. insignia. No modern military blankets.
              B)  Secondary Blanket - Will include quilts of period style and fabric, black or red woolen blankets.
              XIX.  Oil Cloth (preferred) - Shall be of single or double thickness canvas or cotton duck painted (water proofed) on one side. Corners may have small grommets or holes reinforced with a button hole stitch.
              XX.  Gum Blanket - Shall be of black rubberized cotton cloth with small grommets. A slit opening with button closure shall be allowed for use as a poncho.
              XXI.  Soft Knapsacks - Three styles permitted:
                      A) Mexican War style knapsack:
              Shall have a single bag with three button flap and connected at the top to a large folding flap for the blanket. Blanket flap shall have two sides which fold over the blanket and are secured with cloth ties. Blanket flap should then fold over top and front of bag to form back of knapsack. Shall have black or brown bridle leather straps that surround knapsack and come over shoulders. All straps shall have japanned roller buckle adjustments. Bag and flap shall be of black painted canvas or cotton duck.
                      B) Single bag knapsack:
              Shall consist of a large single bag of black painted canvas or duck with a top flap. Closure of flap shall be with two or three black or brown leather straps with japanned roller buckles sewn to the bag. Interior shall have a. single cotton cloth divider. Black or brown bridle leather straps shall surround the bag and cross over the shoulders.
               
                      C) Model 1853/55 Knapsack:
              Shall be of double bag type constructed of painted black canvas or duck. Shall have four flap bag with cloth or leather closures. The two shall be secured together at the bottom with three leather strap and roller buckle closures. Shoulder straps shall have japanned roller buckle adjustments and knapsack hooks. All leather is to be black bridle leather.
              XXII.  Other:
                      A) Watches shall be of key wind type.
                      B) Eating utensils will be of period type, with bone or wood handles.
                      C) Plates, cups, boilers, etc. should be of tin.
                      D) Fry pans made of sheet metal with solid handles or use canteen half with wire handle

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              Tom Craig <tom-craig@...> wrote:
              Guys,
                 I don't have a stake in this discussion so here are my unbiased thoughts...
              Part of doing a "progressive" impression is trying to read the history, and then do what the book says.  If you take a unit with a specific piece of gear then you ought to try and include that in your impression.  If you don't then there is no difference from a mainstreamer saying "well they would have camped with no tents, but we're going to use A tents bacuase it's easier."
                 The 5th CT was chosen for two reasons 1) It was a NE unit that was engaged in the valley in general time frame of the event.  2) It was a fairly generic Federal unit.  The overall event itself, while purported to be a depiction of the fighting in the valley will have little reflection on what actually happened there.
                 The point being: if you are concerned about the kit of the men making up your company, than pick a portrayal from the period that matches the kit your folks have.  Either that or get the kit to match the impression.  Anything else is squarely in the streamer world.
              Take care,
               Tom Craig

              Matt Reardon <carolinaboys1862@...> wrote:
              Rob and all fellow CS,
                 I never came across that, but I had included the RD I, Comm. jackets and Civilian ware in the uniform requirements.  But I guess whatever, we'll get as close as we can.  Does anyone have objection to these type of uniform requirements while still attempting to portray a Louisiana unit or should we try to use another Valley unit for our guiding unit.  Because I know the Federals are using the 5th CT and they didn't fight at Front Royal so I would have no objection changing it.
                     Oh BTW, I bought a gey battleshirt while I was in Gettysburg, last November.  I was thinking I was finally going to get a chance to use it.  But I guess whatever the situation I might get to use it.
               
              Matt
              "Cpl.R.C.Tarbox" <rob_6thnhvi@...> wrote:
              Matt,
               
              The only downside to doing the LA. Reg't. And correct me if I'm wrong didn't they go into battle wearing red battleshirts? Seems to me that detail stands in my mind. The bulk of my crew will be sporting Rd I's, commutation jackets as well as a mixture of citizens ware. Not sure who would be inthe market for a red battleshirt unless Dirty wants to make some up at a good price..(grin)
               
              Rob

              tyler goodrich <pvt_dirty@...> wrote:
              Sounds good pard
              Send it when complete
              Your pard
               Tyler Goodrich

              Matt Reardon <carolinaboys1862@...> wrote:
              Tyler,
                 I've been working on a generic impression situated aound Taylor's Louisiana Brigade which fought at Front Royal.  If you have any input, it'd be geatly appeciated. I'm going to try to finish up what I have so far this weekend. I'll send it to you and Rob before anything official is set.
               
              Matt
               


              Tyler <pvt_dirty@...> wrote:
              Howdy pards

              Not sure who is going to be incharge of Uniform Regs for the CS
              effort but would like to see a more enforced regulations for this one.
              I can start working on a uniform guide if the Commanders would like.
              Your pard
              Tyler Goodrich






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              "Don't you run till you see the Sixth New Hampshire run; but when you see that regi-ment retreating, you may do likewise." (officer of another regiment fighting with the sixth at Bull Run)

              {History of the Sixth New Hampshire Regiment in the War for the Union
              Captain Lyman Jackman}

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              "Don't you run till you see the Sixth New Hampshire run; but when you see that regi-ment retreating, you may do likewise." (officer of another regiment fighting with the sixth at Bull Run)

              {History of the Sixth New Hampshire Regiment in the War for the Union
              Captain Lyman Jackman}


              Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1¢/min.

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