Hybrid update (and a mod or two)
- Hi all...
So a little after midnight last night, D&RGW #463 has emerged from the shops to enter service. But after a bit of tweaking to make an already excellent model a bit better, at least to my ear...
I decided to overwrite the stock Tsunami CV file with my one from my 2003 Boo Rim run K-27 D&RGW #456, in order to match up the performance with the rest of my models. <Red face> I actually accidentally overwrote the FL4 CV file as well by neglecting to disconnect the drawbar, so had to go back and restore the default values (thanks to Paul Claffey for posting these), after disconnecting the Red wire to prevent the FL4 CV values from being written to the Tsunami...this "optional" step is *not* recommended, as it takes a lot less time to simply unhook the drawbar if you want to re-program just the Tsunami! </Red face>
I still wasn't quite as thrilled with the sound as I thought that I'd be though, so I opened up the tender to check out the speaker. Now once again, this is a purely personal and in no way intended to be a slight - but I've been *really* happy with the high bass speakers, so out came the OEM one and in went a high bass one to replace it. As the replacement is higher than the plastic baffle, I carefully scraped off the foam mounting tape from the back of the Tsunami and then loosened the tape holding the wires to permit the Tsunami and its capacitor to sit in the area behind the speaker - just loose, with one end resting on the floor as I wanted air space between the decoder and the plastic tender body. Not too tough a task, but the results are well worth it...in my opinion, anyway! YMMV,
My last tasks for the evening were to replace the couplers as they were too low - IIRC 26" from the rail head to the horizontal center line of the knuckle is standard. The tender one was dead easy: a simple exchange to an underset shank Kadee coupler resolved that in almost less time than it's taken me to type this! The front one is a bit more involved, but no different than the time-worn procedure that PBL piloted many years ago. As I like to operate and utilize the magnetic functionality of the Kadee couplers, I elected to replace the front coupler with a longer shank (and underset) version in order to not have an issue with a mating car being unable to couple because of interference with its trip pin hitting the pilot. I also replaced the centering wire used for the coupler on the pilot with some 0.006" spring wire in order to allow sufficient flexibility to permit delayed uncoupling. I'll forego boring everyone with a "blow-by-blow" description, but will give one little hint; the pilot can be removed from the frame by removing two small screws, and it's a lot easier to undertake the coupler swap by doing it with the pilot off of the locomotive.
Tonight? Well, just the "fun" stuff remains: crew, cab curtains, and spark arrestor.
Thanks to the gang at PBL for providing us with a(nother) superb model!
> Gasp. I think Bill Peter must have been wincing in pain while you did this; like someone was pulling one of his teeth.I didn't tell him. That's why I hesitated to say I had close coupled
the loco a couple days ago.
I'm not sure why they put the little casting on the back of the
loco. It has no actual function for the model.
I prefer not having to remove it but I wanted the close couple.
But since the discussion came up, well....
Bill hates my 23" curves too. he he he he..... but I built the RR
for C's ...... nice that these K-27's go around OK.